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“Modern Electrics." 

A Boy Craftsman in II is Workshop. 



This Indoor Fuselage Model Won First Prize, a Silver Cup, 
and a Trip to Europe for its Builder, Louis Erhardt. 




HANDICRAFT 

FOR 

HANDY BOYS 

metical Plans forW>rk and Play 
witkMany Ideas for EarningMomy 

By A. Neely Hall 

Author of "The Boy Craftsman * 
“Handicraft for Handy Girls '* 

4s Home-Made Toysfor Girls and Boys" 
Home-Made Games and Game Equipment" 
“The Handy Boy" 

“Carpentry and Mechanics for Boys" 
“OutdoorBoy Craftsmen * 

Big Book of Boys Hobbies"Etc. 

With seven hundred illustrations 
and working drawings by the author 

New and EnlargedEdition 


































































Copyright, 1911, by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company. 
Copyright, 1933, by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company. 


All rights reserved. 


Handicraft for Handy Boys. 

REVISED EDITION 


Printed in U. S. A. 


!! IM 
UUlJ 


H 


L? \o 


!0 33 


©ci 


ftaoi « 













When you play, play hard; and 
when you work, do not play at all. 

— Theodore Roosevelt. 


INTRODUCTORY NOTES 

This is a companion volume to “ The Boy Craftsman,” and 
is intended for the same class of readers, —boys who want the 
latest ideas for making things , practical plans for earning money , 
up-to-date suggestions for games and sports , and novelties for 
home and school ejitertainments . 

There are all sorts of Handicraft for Handy Boys in this 
new volume. Some of the ideas will appeal more directly to 
younger readers, while other ideas will be better suited to the 
older lads who have become more capable through experience 
with earlier ventures and advancement in school. At the time 
of the publication of “ The Boy Craftsman,” the author advanced 
the opinion that it is well to provide a boy with a book which 
contains not only a goodly measure of the simple work requir¬ 
ing little or no experience in the handling of tools, but also the 
proper instruction to help him grow more proficient, and such 
advanced work as he will then be prepared to undertake ; and the 
success of this former volume has proven that such a book gets 
right next to a boy’s heart, that it furnishes him with ideas for 
many years’ work, and that it produces the best possible influ¬ 
ence over him in encouraging him to be industrious. Every 
young fellow loves to plan and dream about what he is “going 
to do ” some day, and in simply looking over the more advanced 
ideas in a book of this kind, he experiences, in his imaginative 
mind, much of the pleasures that his older brother or friend 
gets out of the actual work; for this reason, no school boy is 
too young to enjoy such a book, and the act of placing a copy 


VI 


INTRODUCTORY NOTES 


in his hands at an early age will be the means of instilling 
in him an ambition to make the best possible use of his 
time, before he has had a chance to acquire a tendency to be 
an idler. 

As in “ The Boy Craftsman,” the author has pla7ined the 
suggestions on an economical basis , providing for the use of 
the materials which a boy ordinarily has at hand, — old boards, 
grocery boxes, cigar boxes, barrels, tin cans, worn-out pans and 
tins, pails, broom-handles, spools, discarded clocks, broken 
chairs and other furniture, old hats and clothing, stovepipe, 
clothes-line, screen wire, and other things too numerous to 
mention, — besides many things which can be purchased for 
a few cents. The greater part of the ideas require very little 
if any outlay of money, and many suggestions for earning moiiey 
have been included to make it possible for a boy to provide 
himself with all the tools which he requires or wishes to own, 
without having to call upon the home treasurer for the means 
for such purchases. These features were brought together 
for the first time in “ The Boy Craftsman,” and have won 
the confidence of parents who realize that, in giving a book 
of this kind to their boys, they are providing something which 
will encourage self-reliance and resourcefulness rather than 
a dependence upon home for money for tools and working 
material —• which is often the cause of endless worry where 
such cannot be furnished. The work is along such lines 
as will interest the boy with unlimited funds at his disposal, as 
well as the boy in moderate circumstances, and, inasmuch as 
it has been planned on a small cost basis, it should be the means 
of doing him more good, and help him to form a firmer founda¬ 
tion for later years, than something which might tend to culti¬ 
vate a love for extravagance. 

Much of the work is closely allied to the studies of the 
modern grammar and high schools , as will be seen by glancing 
over the table of Contents, and it is hoped and believed that 


INTRODUCTORY NOTES 


Vll 


this outside instruction will be the means of helping boys to 
appreciate the value of close application to studies. 

It is impossible to make a book of this character complete, 
in the sense of covering every scope of work and play in which 
boys are interested; for the field is practically inexhaustible, 
and is growing larger day by day. Every new development 
in the scientific world is being investigated by an eager army 
of boys possessing an unquenchable thirst for something new, 
and generally some young mechanical genius discovers how 
to introduce the idea into the boys’ realm of work; and if 
costly apparatus was used in the original experiments, he “ plugs 
away” until he finds out how this can be made, wholly or 
partly, with the materials boys are accustomed to work with,— 
the truck to be found about the house, in the shed, in alleys 
and in junk shops, and inexpensive stuff. This sort of original 
investigation should be encouraged in boys, and no better way 
can be found than by providing them with a book of modern 
and ingenious work which will appeal to their mechanical 
natures. 

Here is an example of the pace at which boys’ achievements 
are following the developments of the day. Every up-to-date 
boy is now experimenting in electrical work and wireless teleg¬ 
raphy, work which has put into the background experimental 
chemistry — not long ago one of the principal scientific pas¬ 
times, and one of the features of boys’ handy books; and he 
is producing original forms of model aeroplanes, while aero¬ 
nautics now occupies more of his attention than kite-flying, 
a fact which no one, a few years ago, would have believed 
to be possible. With the shifting of boys’ interests in work 
and play, it is only natural for the book which contains the 
greatest variety of modern ideas to win the greatest amount of 
popularity. Whether or not this book will meet the present 
demands of boys, the author is willing to let his readers decide. 

The manual training in the first portion of the book has been 


Vlll 


INTRODUCTORY NOTES 


provided for the benefit of the boys who have not the advan¬ 
tages of such instruction at school, as well as to help those who 
have these advantages, in providing themselves with equipment 
for home use. The chapter on working-drawings has been 
inserted to instruct boys in enough of the principles of mechani¬ 
cal drawing to enable them to design and work out their own 
ideas accurately on paper, and the numerous plans for easily 
made furniture, for cigar-box toys and gifts, clockwork toys, 
and contrivances for the house and garden, will furnish them 
with a good supply of ideas to make selections from for shop 
work. The suggestions for fitting up a boy's room and for 
making box furniture and gymnasium apparatus will enable 
boys to provide themselves with rooms furnished to suit their 
convenience. The chapter on telegraph and crystal radio sets 
contains practical ideas for home-made apparatus in its simplest 
forms, the chapter on model airplanes shows some of the best 
model flying machines, and the “auto-airship” described is a 
practical scheme for a boy’s airship that runs along a rope. 

All of the material in this volume has been thoroughly tested, 
and hundreds of thousands of boys have already had an oppor¬ 
tunity to carry out some of the ideas which have been included 
in the author’s articles for boys published recently in The Ladies ’ 
Home Journal and Good Housekeeping, in his “Boy Carpenter” 
department of The Boys' Magazine , and in The American Boy. 
The author wishes to extend his thanks to the editors and pub¬ 
lishers of the above publications, for their care in preserving 
and returning the original drawings for the illustrations to these 
articles that they might be used in this book. 

The author invites correspondence, and is always glad to 
hear how his boys succeed with their work, and pleased to 
receive photographs of their handicraft for his collection. 


Chicago, Illinois, 
May 31, 1911. 


A. N. H. 


NOTES TO NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION 

Handicraft for Handy Boys has come of age. With the 
rounding out of twenty-one years of service to boys, this new 
and enlarged edition has been prepared. This was the first book 
of hobbies with plans for model airplanes, wireless telegraphy, 
scout craft, bird-house building, home manual-training, and 
mechanical toys, and these hobbies are now brought up to date 
with new plans, new materials, and new assembly methods. 

In preparing this edition, the author has been guided by 
suggestions from his readers. Many of these readers, grown to 
manhood, keep in contact with the author by letters and by visits 
to his studio, and their interest bears testimony to the book’s 
lasting influence on projects of the type presented. 

A. NEELY HALL. 

Elmhurst, Illinois, 

March 25, 1933 






PART I 

A UTUMN AND WINTER HANDICRAFT 

CHAPTER I 

PAGZ 

The Home Workshop.1 

Introduction — What a Boy should be able to Do — Selecting a 
Suitable Place for a Shop — Electric Light Outlets — Cabinet-made 
Benches — A Home-made Bench — A Solid Work Bench — The 
Bench-vise — An Iron Bench-screw — An Iron Vise — A Work 
Bench with Tool Drawers — A Tool Tray — Home-made Bench- 
stops — An Adjustable Bench-stop. 

CHAPTER II 

Tools and Home-made ShopTEquipment. 14 

Purchasing Tools — A Handy Guide for Purchasing — The Prin¬ 
cipal Tools Required — A Small Outfit and how it may be added 
to — Jack-knife — Hatchet — Hammer — Tack Hammer — Crate 
Opener —Nail-set —Wooden Mallet —Cross-cut Saw— Rip-saw — 
Compass-saw —Keyhole-saw —Back-saw —Coping-saw —Bracket- 
saw—Scroll-saw or Jig-saw—Hack-saw—Jack-plane—Smoothing- 
plane— Fore-plane — Rabbet-plane—Dado-plane—Ratchet-brace 
— Auger-bits — Expansive-bit — Wood Drill Bit — Brad-awls — 
Scratch-awl —Hand Gimlet —Rose Countersink Bit —Hand Drill 
— Spiral-ratchet Screw-driver —Hand Screw-driver —Screw-driver 
Bit —Firmer Chisels —Framing or Mortising Chisel —Gouge — 
Cold-chisel —Draw-knife —Spoke-shave —Half-round Wood-file — 
Handiest Forms of Files —Two-foot Folding Rule —Zig-zag Rule — 
Try-square —Carpenter’s Steel Square —Bevel —Marking-gauge 
— Wing Dividers — Level — Pocket Level — Odd-jobs — Cutting 
Pliers —Wrench —Wood Handscrews —Cabinet-maker’s Clamps— 
Home-made Clamps —Carborundum Stone —Oilstone —Oiler — 


xi 



















CONTENTS 


• • 
Xll 


PAGE 

Grocery-box Tool-chest —Tool-cabinet —Tool-rack —Open Shelves 
— Material Boxes —Partitioned Nail Box —Another Box —Re¬ 
ceptacles for Nails, Screws, and Brads —Horse —Saw-bench — 

Chair Saw-bench —Miter-box —Bench-hook —Shooting-board. 

CHAPTER III 

Elementary Manual Training.4 2 

Selection of Working Material —Structure of Wood —Cutting 
up the Log — Plain Sawing — Quarter Sawing — Knots — Cup- 
Shakes and Heart-shakes—Checks—Seasoning—Kiln-Drying — 

Stock or Stuff —Undressed Stuff —Dressed Stuff —Matched Stuff 
— Matched-and-beaded Stuff —Boards —Planks or Dimension Stuff 
— Timber —Stock^Sizes of Lumber —Purchasing Material —A Mill 
List —Estimating Cost of Material —Laying out Work —Gauging 
— A planing Exercise —Winding-sticks —A Sawing Exercise — 

Joints and Splices —Common-joint —Butt-joint —Common-splice 
— Fished-splice — Halved-joint — Halved-splice — Mortise-and- 
tenon Joint —Pins —Wedging —Rabbet —Rabbet-joint —Grooves 
— Housed-joint —Tongue-and-groove Joint —Mitered-joint —Mi- 
tered-splice —Dovetail-joint —Dovetail Half-lap Joint —Dowel- 
joint —Battens —Cleats —Taper —Bevel —Chamfer —Gluing up 
Work —Casein Glue —Ambroid Cement —Corrugated Fasteners 
— Carriage Bolts — Stove Bolts. 

CHAPTER IV 

Wood Finishing .......... 75 

The Finishes best adapted to Boys’ Work — Paint — Mixing 
Paints — Brushes — Painting — Enamels — Lacquers — Oil Stains 
— Shellacking — Filling — Waxing — Varnishing — Rubbing — 
Polishing — Oiling — Sandpapering — Puttying — A Home-made 
Putty-knife — Crack Fillers — Caution about Oily Rags. 

CHAPTER V 

Working-drawings ......... 86 

What a Working-drawing is and its Purpose —Why Some People 
have Difficulty in Reading Working-drawings — Definitions of 
Detail Drawings, Specifications, Plans, Elevations, Cross-sections, 
Longitudinal Sections, and a Perspective Drawing — Scales — A 
Drawing Outfit — A Drawing-board — A Drafting Table — A 
T-square —A 45-degree Triangle —A 60-degree Triangle —Com¬ 
passes—A Ruling-pen —A Set of Instruments—A 12-inch Ruler 



CONTENTS 


xm 


PAGE 

— A Scale — Drawing Pencils — Pens — Drawing Ink — An Ink 
Eraser and a Pencil Eraser —An Erasing Shield —A Home-made 
Pencil Box and Inkstand —Thumb-tacks —Drawing-paper —Blue¬ 
prints —Tracing-cloth —Tracing-paper —A Home-made Printing- 
frame —Preparing Working-drawings —Dimension-lines, Dot-and- 
dash Lines, and Dotted Lines—Titles—Marginal Lines—Lettering. 

CHAPTER VI 

Easily Made Furniture.103 

A Good Test of a Boy’s Skill — What Boys generally want to 
Make — Plan for Earning Money — The Juvenile Manufacturing 
Company — Choice of Material — A Whisk-broom Holder — A 
Clock-shelf — A Necktie Rack — A Towel-rack — Book-racks — 

An Extension Book-rack — Popularity of Tabourets and Plant 
Stands — A List of Material showing Exact Finished Dimensions — 

A Tabouret — Leveling up Uneven Legs — Another Tabouret — 

A Plant Stand — A Footstool — Upholstering Material and how to 
Upholster — A Bench — Two Magazine Racks — Wall Racks — A 
Fireplace Screen — A Pup Door-stop — A Waste Basket — A Step 
Stool — A Smoker’s Stand — An Electric Lamp — Wiring the 
Lamp — A Drafting Table — A Tilting Top for the Drafting Table. 

CHAPTER VII 

Home Repairs and Gadgets ....... 139 

A’Reputation for being Handy — Leaking Faucets — Door Locks 
— Electric Appliance Cords — A Pot-cover Rack — A Bottle-rack 
— Cutting Large Holes — Drawer Partitions — Weather Strips — 
Hinge Safety Locks — A Bell Transformer — Other Bell Installa¬ 
tions— A Towel Roller — A Utility Rack. 

CHAPTER VIII 

A Boy’s Room in an Attic .149 

A Dividing Partition—A Plumb-line—A Plumb-board—Lockers 
— Wainscoting — A Large Clothes Closet — Trousers Hangers — 

Doors — The Entrance-door Transom — An Old-fashioned Cabin 
Latch — An Oil Heater or Stove — A Wash-stand — A Broom- 
handle Towel-rack — Lighting the Room — A Home-made Hanging 
Lamp — Furnishing the Room — Home-made Picture-frames — 

The Furniture — A Pirate Chest — A Window Seat — Insulation 
Material. 


XIV 


CONTENTS 


PAG? 

CHAPTER IX 

A Desk, Stool, and Chair for Your Room .... 160 

The Possibilities for Making Things out of the Materials at 
Hand — A Writing-desk — A Shelf for Books — An Office Chair — 

A Waste-basket — An Arm Rocker. 

CHAPTER X 

Home-made Gymnasium Apparatus for a Boy’s Room . . . 166 

A Rowing-machine — A Chest-weight — A Striking-bag — A 
Striking-bag Platform — A Chinning-bar — A Hitch-and-Kick — 

A Wand — A Rack for Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and Wand — 

Other Ideas. 

CHAPTER XI 

Cigar-box Toys and Gifts . . . . . . . .178 

Articles to give away and to Sell — Material — Finish — Cutting 
— An Express-wagon — A Cart — A Light Auto Truck'— A Jack- 
in-the-Box — A Round-seated Chair — A Round Center-table — 

A Dining-table — A Square-seated Chair — A Doll’s Cradle — A 
Key-board — A Corner Clock-shelf — A Wisk-broom Holder — A 
Kitchen Match-box — A Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box — A 
Cottage Match-box — Suggestions for Other Gifts. 

CHAPTER XII 

Clockwork Toys .......... 189 

The^Necessary Materials — How to prepare the Clockwork — A 
Merry-go-round — The Standard — The Tent — The Tent-poles — 

The Horses — The Sleighs — The Shafts — The Girl and Boy 
Riders — The Platform — How to operate the Merry-go-round — 

Other Animals for the Merry-go-round — A Miniature Ferris Wheel 
— The Standard — The Station Platform — How to make the 
Wheel — How to make the Cars — The Car Axles — How to mount 
the Wheel — Steps to the Platform — The “Flying Airships” — 

The Standard — The Mast — The Cars — How to increase the 
Speed of the Clockwork. 

CHAPTER XIII 

Brass Craft .......... 206 

The Tools and Materials Required — Enlarging Designs by 
Squares — Piercing — Polishing the Brass — A Home-made Antique 
Green Lacquer — A Tea-pot Stand — A Calendar Board — A Pen 
Tray — A Lamp-shade — Chain Fringe — A Candle-shade — Shade- 
holders— A Candle-stick — A “Paul Revere” Lantern. 



CONTENTS 


xv 


PAGE 

CHAPTER XIV 

The Home Laboratory ........ 219 

Fitting up a Laboratory — Telegraphy, Wireless Telegraphy and 
Radio — A Home-made Telegraph — A Telegraph Key — A Tele¬ 
graph Sounder — The Telegraph Hook-up — Operation — The 
Morse Code — The Continental Code — Boys’ Wireless Telegraph 
Outfits before the World War — Early Radio Sets — A Crystal 
Receiving Set — The Receivers — The Detector — The Tuning- 
coil — The Fixed Condenser — Mounting the Set — Developments 
in Radio Sets — The Aerial — An Iron-Pipe Mast — A Concrete 
Base — Assembling the Mast—Insulation of the Aerial — An 
Electric Question-Answer Map — The Question-Answer Board Base 
— Preparing a Map — The Key — The Lamp Base and Battery 
Case — The Pointers — A Simple Steam Turbine — The Boiler — 

The Steam Port — The Turbine Support — The Rotor — Mounting 
the Rotor — Operation — Finishing. 

CHAPTER XV 

Stunts for a Boys’ Vaudeville Show ..... 256 

The Best Kind of Stunts for a Boys’ Show — Sam Dow, the 
Strong Man — Holding out a Chair upon which a Boy is Seated — 

The Dumb-bell Lifting Feat — Juggling with Heavy Balls — Bone- 
head— The Magical Mortar — The Professor — The Wonderful 
Hat Trick — Other Mortar Stunts — The Professor’s Final Exhibi- 

1. 

tion — The Dummy Assistant — Falsetto, the Boy with a Wonder¬ 
ful Voice — The Ventriloquist — How to make the Ventriloquist’s 
Doll — Willie Shute, the Crack Shot of the World — The Targets — 

His Blunderbuss — A Program Board — Admission Tickets. 

CHAPTER XVI 

Moving Pictures ......... 270 

A Simple Moving-picture Machine — The Wooden Base — The 
Cylinder —■ The Clown and Ball Pictures — The Circus Horse and 
Hound Pictures — How to operate this Toy — The Automobile — 

The Revolving Wheels — The Boxing-match. 

CHAPTER XVII 

A Snow Battleship ......... 279 

A New Idea for a Snow Fight — The Central Station — The Hull 
— A Torpedo Tube — The Superstructure Deck — The Conning- 
tower — The Forward Turret — The Midship Turret — The Mast 


XVI 


CONTENTS 


— The Fighting-tops—Rapid-fire Guns — The Crosstree A 
Coach-whip Pennant — Paper Signal Flags — A Union Jack A 
National Ensign — The Funnels — The Ventilators The Main- 
battery Guns — The Secondary-battery Guns — Arrangement of 
Ammunition Stores — Duties of the Captain — A Naval Battle 
Rules for the Battle — A Flag of Truce — The “Torpedo Boats 
Repairing the Ships after a Battle — Marksmanship. 

CHAPTER XVIII 

A Coaster and a Bob-sled ..’••••• 

A Coaster — How to lay out the Runners — Shoes for Runners — 
Connecting the Runners — The Seat — Sled Handles — The Foot- 
bar— Painting the Sled. 

A Bob-sled — The Four Runners — Connecting the Runners — 
The Sled Seats — The Plank Seat — How to hinge the Seat to the 
Stern Sled — Check-chains — The Steering Foot-bar — The Steer¬ 
ing Lines — Handle-bars — A Seat Cushion — Painting the Bob¬ 
sled— Other Winter Sports Equipment. 

PART II 

SPRING AND SUMMER HANDICRAFT 

CHAPTER XIX 

Model Airplane Construction ....... 

The Thrill of Your First Ship’s Initial Flight — Methods of Wing 
Construction — The All-Balsa Wing — Built-up Wing Frames — 
Cutting Balsa — Cutting Bamboo — Wing Chamber — Wing Tips 
— Wing Assembly — Double Surface Wing Frames — Wing Cover¬ 
ing — A Beginner’s First Job of Papering — Pressing the Japanese 
Tissue Paper — Cutting — Banana-oil for Adhesive — Starting^the 
Papering — Trimming Projecting Edges — Shrinking the Tissue- 
paper — Double-surface Papering — Fuselage Construction —' The 
Profile Fuselage — A Simple Built-up Fuselage—The Wedge- 
shaped Fuselage—The Oval-shaped Fuselage — Scale Model 
Fuselages—Propellers — Wire Fittings — A Propeller Shaft — 
Thrust-washers — A Thrust-bearing — A Rear Motor-hook — A 
Motor-yoke — A Motor S-hook — A Motor Can — Axles and 
Shock Absorbers — Wing Clips — Incidence Blocks — A Nose 
Block — A Tail Block — Definitions of Aeronautical Terms — Rules 
and Regulations for Model Airplane Tournaments. 


PAGE 


287 


PAGE 

299 


CONTENTS 


XVII 


PAGE 

CHAPTER XX 

A Boy’s Auto-airship.327 

A Safe and Practical “Boy-carrying” Airship — The Framework 
of the Balloon — Barrel-hoop Ribs — Rib-bands — Stays — The 
Balloon Envelope — Construction of the Car — The Propeller — A 
Starting Platform — A Push-off Platform — The Rope Cable — 
Attachment of Car — Windlass for pulling back the Airship to 
Starting Platform — An Auto-airship Club. 

CHAPTER XXI 

Camping Equipment .337 

Prices of “A” and Wall Tents — How to make an “A” Tent — 

The Ridge-pole and Uprights — Tent Stakes — Pitching a Tent — 

A Tent Ground-cloth — A Pine Twig Mattress — A Sleeping-bag 
— Other Equipment — An Electric Flash Lamp — Packing — A 
Safety Match-box — A Duffle Box — Food Supplies — If you are 
to be Cook — Making an Open Fire — The Backwoodsman’s Camp 
Fireplace — Pothooks — A Sheet-iron Camp Stove — A Dutch 
Oven — A Camp Fireless Cooker — To build a Fire — Camp 
Furniture — A Camp Chair — A Camp Table — A Good Table 
Bench — A Comfortable Box Bench — Box Cupboards. 

CHAPTER XXII 

A Home-made Punt.351 

Dimensions — Material — The Side Boards — The Stem- and 
Stern-pieces — The Bottom Boards — An Inner Keel Board — 

Seats — Rowlocks — Thole-pins — The Painter — Finishing. 

CHAPTER XXIII 

A Home-made Sharpie.356 

Dimensions — The Side-pieces — The Stem-piece — The Stern- 
piece — The Stretcher — To put the Pieces Together — The Bottom 
Boards — The Skeg — An Inner Keel Board — Seats — Finishing 
the Bow — The Painter — An Easily Made Rudder — The Rowlock 
Blocks — Rowlocks or Thole-pins — Finishing — For an Outboard 
Motor — Other Boat Plans. 

CHAPTER XXIV 

PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS .... 364 

Where to get Wheels — What a Pushmobile Is — The Flushing 
Pushmobile Club — The Vanderbilt Cup Race — Description of a 




xviii 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Pushmobile Race — Organizing Pushmobile Clubs — To construct 
a Pushmobile — The Iron Axles — The Wooden Axles — The 
Wagon-bed — The Steering-wheel — The Hood — The Radiator- 
front — The Seat — Headlights — Side Lamps — A Clock-case Side 
Lamp — Painting — The License Number — A Racing Pushmobile. 

An Auto Wagon — The Steering-wheel — Another Steering-gear 
— The Seat — An Auto Horn. 

A Simple Push Wagon — The Wagon-bed — The Rear Wheels — 

The Axle for the Front Wheels — Other Pushmobile Plans. 

CHAPTER XXV 

Bird-houses ........... 379 

Wren Houses are in Greatest Demand — The Box Wren House — 

A Box Bird-house — Another Box Bird-house — A Bird Tower — 

A Tin-can Bird Tower — A Bird Castle — A Bird Ark — A House 
and Swing — A Wren Log Cabin. 

CHAPTER XXVI 

Houses for Pets.389 

A Dog-house — A Rabbit-hutch — Galvanized Poultry-netting, 

Twist Wire Cloth, and Wire Cloth for Fronts of Hutches and Cages 
— A Breeding Hutch — A Two-story Rabbit-hutch—A Rabbit 
Yard — A Cage for White Rats — An Elevated “Race-track” — 
Painting — Floor Covering — Drinking Receptacles — A Pigeon- 
cote — Other Pet Shelters. 

CHAPTER XXVII 

A Castle Club-house and Home-made Armor .... 404 

Material — The Framework — The Floor Joists — The Corner 
Turrets — Boarding up the Walls — To cut the Openings — The 
Roof — If the Roof Leaks — The Battlement — Secret Treasure 
Vaults — The Drawbridge — To counterbalance the Drawbridge — 

A Windlass — A Moat. 

Home-made Armor — A Helmet — A Shield — A Sword. 

CHAPTER XXVIII 

A Boys’ Band of Home-made Instruments.416 

The Neighbrohood Parade — Materials out of which to make the 
Imitation Instruments — A Cornet — A Trombone — A Bass Horn 
— A Fife — A Bass Drum — Cymbals — The Drum-stick — Snare- 




CONTENTS 


XIX 


PAGE 

drums — The Drum Major — A Splendid “Bearskin” Cap — The 
Drum Major’s Staff — The Major’s Whistle — Uniforms — Organiz¬ 
ing a Band — How the Band will be useful in the Home Circus, 
Vaudeville, and Other Shows. 

CHAPTER XXIX 

A Profile Fuselage Glider Model. 426 

A Model for the Beginner or Old-Timer Model Builder — It may 
be Launched in Three Ways — The Wing — If you make a Flat 
Wing — If you Prefer a Cambered Wing — The Stabilizer — The 
Fin — The Fuselage — The Nose Hook — Wing and Tail Bands — 

For Inside Loops — For Outside Loops — Tuning the Glider — For 
Launching with a Tow-Line — For Launching from a Kite — An 
Aerial Circus Performance. 

CHAPTER XXX 

An Indoor Tractor Model Airplane. 434 

A Model with an Outrigger Tail and Stabilizer with Reverse 
Camber on its Ribs — Material for the Model — The Motor Base — 
Outrigger Spar — The Motor Fittings — The Wing — The Ribs — 

The Spars — A Wash-in — The Wing Assembly — To Paper the 
Wing — The Stabilizer and the Fin — Mounting the Stabilizer — 

The Propeller — Carving — To Mount the Propeller — The Motor 
— Tuning the Model. 


CHAPTER XXXI 

An Indoor Fuselage Model Airplane ..... 445 

A Model that Flies Well — The Material — The Fuselage Frame¬ 
work— Papering the Fuselage — The Wing — To Join the Wing 
Halves — Papering — A Pair of Incidence Blocks — A Wing-Band 
— The Tail Assembly — The Motor Assembly — The Wire Fittings 
— The Propeller — Carving — To Mount the Propeller — The 
Motor — The Landing Gear — Finishing the Ship’s Cabins — 
Tuning the Model. 


Index . 


461 




LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 

(In addition to more than five hundred text illustrations.) 


PART I 


A Boy Craftsman in his Workshop 
This Indoor Fuselage Model Won First Prize 
A Basement Workshop .... 

A Corner of the Author’s Home Workroom 
Fig. 108. — Whisk-Broom Holder 
Fig. 109. — Clock-Shelf. 

Figs, no and in. — Necktie-Racks 
Figs 112-114. — Book-Racks 
Figs. 122 and 123. — Tabourets 
Fig. 124. — Plant Stand 
Fig. 125. — Footstool 
Figs. 133 and 134. — Wall Book Racks 
Fig- J 35 - — A Fire Screen 
Fig. 139. — A Pup Door Stop 
Fig. 140. — A Waste Basket 
Fig. 141. — A Step Stool 
Fig. 142. — A Smoker’s Stand 
Fig. 206. — Construct Your Chest-Weights First 
Fig. 210. — Where to Hang the Striking-Bag 
Fig. 215. — The Doorway Chinning-Bar is Easily Put Up 
Fig. 223. — An Express-Wagon 1 
Fig. 224. — A Cart J 

Figs. 225 and 226. — Two Views of a Light Auto Truck 

Fig. 228. — A Jack-in-the-Box 

Fig. 229. — The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-Box 

Fig. 230. — A Round-Seated Chair 

Fig. 231. — A Round Center-Table 

Fig. 232. — A Dining-Table 

Fig. 233. — A Square-Seated Chair 

Fig. 234. — A Doll’s Cradle < 

Fig. 238. — A Key-Board 

Fig. 239. — A Corner Clock-Shelf 

Fig. 240. — A Whisk-Broom Holder 

Fig. 241. — A Kitchen Match-Box 

Fig. 242. — A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box 




. Frontispiece 

FACING PAGE 

8 

. 88 


. 104 


. 112 


. 120 


. 128 


. 170 


. 184-185 


XXI 








LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 


xxii 


FACING 

Fig. 253. — A Merry-Go-Round 
Fig. 254. — A Clock Work Motor 
Fig. 255. — A Ferris Wheel 
Fig. 256.—A Flying Airship 

Fig. 360. — The “Torpedo-boats” Furnish the Only Means of Attack at 
Close Range 


PART II 

Fig. 382. — Five Types of Wing Construction 
Fig. 383. — Three Types of Wings Papered 
Fig. 384. — Five Types of Fuselage 
Wall Tent, Eight Feet by Ten Feet, with Fly 
Flapjacks for Two 
Some of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile Club Races 
Winning Car in the Vanderbilt ( 

At the Start Off. A Flushing P 
Fig. 483. — A Bird Tower 
Fig 484. — A Bird Castle 
Fig. 485. — A Bird Ark 
Fig. 486.—A House and Swing 
Fig. 506. — The Castle Club-House .... 

Fig. 515. — A Boy Knight with His Home-Made Armor 
Fig. 530. — The Cornet 
Fig. 531. — The Trombone f. 

Fig. 532. — The Bass Horn 
Fig. 558. — The PFG-33 Profile Fuselage Glider 
Fig. 559. — The IT-31 Indoor Tractor Model . 

Fig. 560. — Steps in Carving a Propeller 
Fig. 561. — The IF-32 Indoor Fuselage Model 




PAGE 

192 

280 

306 

340 

366 

367 

382 

406 

407 

414 

430 







PART I 

Autumn and Winter 
Handicraft 






















































































































































w— 


T 




#44 


JL 












mm 


r 



CHAPTER I 

THE HOME WORKSHOP 



With the coming of autumn and the beginning of 
the new school year, the majority of you boys who 
have enjoyed all summer the freedom of outdoor life 
probably pick up your books with a feeling of regret 
that you must knuckle down again to studies. But 
as soon as you meet all the boys and get to talking 
over last year’s good times, your old school enthusi¬ 
asm returns; then when some one proposes something 
interesting to do, you at once fall into line with the 
other fellows in offering suggestions, and the chances 
are that before the day is over you are ready to admit 
that school life is pretty good after all. In the course 
of a day or so football is under way, and possibly plans 
have developed for an athletic club and literary society, 
while all sorts of schemes have been undertaken by 
groups of boys who have found that they can work 
together congenially, and very likely each boy has 
mapped out a lot of individual work to do. These 
outside interests help probably more than anything 
else to keep school from becoming monotonous. 

i 
















































2 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


To be able to fix up a club-room or make furniture 
for your own room, construct apparatus for a “gym v 
and prepare the various “ properties ” for school oi 
neighborhood “shows”; to be able to build wagons, 
boats, sleds, kites, model airplanes, and other things 
just a little better than those the other fellows have 
made; to be able to make pieces of handicraft which 
will be presentable as Christmas and birthday gifts 
to your friends and relatives; in short, to be handy 
about doing things in general is an accomplishment 
which every one of you boys should strive to attain; 
but before you can expect to do all of these things 
well it will be necessary for you to know not only how 
to use carpenters’ tools properly, but also how to go 
about the work in the right way. This is the author’s 
reason for beginning this book of handicraft for you 
with instructions upon manual training. 

Unless you have a workshop, or at least a space 
large enough in which to set up a work bench, you 
will be handicapped for any kind of home carpentry, 
for to get good results it is necessary to have some¬ 
thing strong and solid to work upon and a vise which 
will hold your pieces of work firmly. The basement, 
attic, a spare room, the woodshed, and garage sug¬ 
gest possibilities for fitting up a good workshop, but in 

Selecting a Suitable Place there are several important 
things to consider. The shop should have good light, 
it should be dry, to prevent your stock from getting wet 


THE HOME WORKSHOP 


3 


and your tools from rusting, and it should be located 
conveniently, so that material can easily be carried in 
and out, and far enough away from the living-room and 
bedrooms so that your hammering will not disturb 
any one. Of course, some of you will have no choice 
in the matter and will have to take any place you can 
get, but in this case make the best of the conditions 
for the time being and perhaps something better will 
turn up later on. If you locate your shop in the base¬ 
ment or attic, it will be a good idea to partition off 
a space as large as you will need and provide a door 
with a padlock which can be locked to keep things 
from being tampered with by younger hands. The 
building of a partition is described on page 149 and 
illustrated by Figs. 172 to 175. If there are no 

Electric Light Outlets install one or two over the position 
for your work-bench, and a two-plug or three-plug re¬ 
ceptacle in a convenient location for motors. Some day 
you may have the good fortune to own an electric jig¬ 
saw, lathe, circular-saw, and other motorized machines. 
The best installation is wire in conduit, or armoured 
cable, extended from a separate circuit in the service box. 

Cabinet-made Benches can be bought at any of the 
large stores where tools are sold, for from $7.50 to 
$50, but one of these will serve your purposes no better 
than the old-fashioned 

Home-made Bench to be found in almost every carpen¬ 
ter shop. One of these can be made by any boy, out of 


4 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


pine, cypress, or whitewood. The well-made cabinet 
benches have maple tops, but it is not necessary to go to 
the expense of buying maple for your bench, as softer 
material will do just as well. Dressed i-inch, if-inch, 
or 2-inch stock may be used for the top, 2-by-4-inch stuff 
for the framework, and i-inch boards for the aprons and 
rails; 4-by-4-inch stock is often used for bench legs, but 
“ 2-by-4’s ” are plenty heavy enough and generally easier 
to get. 

Figure i shows 

A Solid Work Bench, 2 feet 8 inches high, with a top 5 
feet long and 24 inches wide. This is a good size to 
make your bench if you are crowded for room. If you 
would like to have it longer, it is a simple matter to add 
whatever you wish to the lengths given for the different 
pieces, and if you find that it is going to be too high for 
you, it is easy enough to saw off the legs before making 
the vise. Figure 2 shows the framework with the dif¬ 
ferent members lettered. Cut the four legs A 2 feet 
8 inches long, less the thickness of the crosspieces B 
(if inches) and the top, the 2-by-4-inch crosspieces B 
22-inches long, the end rails C 22 inches long by 31- 
inches wide, and the front and back rails D 4 feet long 
by 3f inches wide. Spike crosspieces B to the tops 
of the legs, and rails C to the sides 8 inches from the 
lower ends; then stand the frames thus formed on end 
and connect them by means of rails D. Cut a front 
and a rear apron ( 2 T, Fig. 2) 5 feet long, out of 10-inch 


A Solid Work Bench- 



Detail of Framework. 



















































































6 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


SOCKtt 



boards, saw off the ends on the diagonal as shown, and 
then either nail or screw them to the bench legs, placing 
them with their top edges even with the top of cross¬ 
pieces B and with their ends projecting the same dis¬ 
tance beyond the ends of the bench framework. The 
bench top may be made of three pieces 8 inches wide, or 

of any combina¬ 
tion of widths 
that will make 
up a total of 24 
inches, and these 
pieces should be 
fastened to cross¬ 
pieces B with 

j jySggp U screws. Counter¬ 

sink the screw- 
heads. Finish 
the ends of the 




o 

2 

i 


A 


7. 


• 




£ 

* 


2 <- 
3 

o<W 

*> 

J EfttfSp 

Ip 


(Block out 

OACKOF- LEG 
IF SCREW-IS 
NOT TWREADEO 
■' AS■far sack 
AS SHOWN 
t IN f 1C. 4. 



Fig. 5. 



Fig. 4. 


Fig. 


Figs. 3-5. — Details of the Bench-vise. 


bench by fitting pieces of 10-inch board between the 
aprons, as shown in Fig. 1. 

Figures 3, 4, and 5 show the details for making 

The Bench-vise. Cut the jaw about 31 inches long out 
of a piece of i^-inch or 2-inch stuff 6 inches wide, and 
the sliding strip 3 inches wide and 14 inches long out 
of a 1-inch board, and bore ten -|-inch holes through the 
sliding strip about J inch on centers and staggered as 
shown. There are several ways of fastening the sliding 
strip to the jaw, two of which are shown in Figs. 3 and 4. 


























THE HOME WORKSHOP 


7 


By nailing the jaw to the end of the strip, as in Fig. 
3, it is necessary to mortise the bench leg for it to 
slide through, while if you set the strip into the side of 
the jaw, as in Fig. 4, a pocket must be built on to the side 
of the leg. If you mortise the leg, make the mortise 
about J inch larger all around than the strip, so there 
will be plenty of clearance, and locate the bottom of it 3 
or 4 inches above the floor. After fastening the sliding 
strip to the jaw, slip the end through the mortise — or 
through the pocket, push the jaw up against the apron 
of the bench, and drive a couple of nails through it to 
hold it temporarily in place. 

An Iron Bench-screw, socket and wooden handle (Fig. 
4), can be bought at almost any hardware store for 50 
cents. If this screw is ij inches in diameter, describe a 
circle inches in diameter on the face of the jaw, 8 
inches below the bench top, and then bore a hole of the 
same diameter through the jaw, the apron, and the bench- 
leg (see “ Cutting Large Holes,” page 142). With a chisel 
enlarge the hole on the inside face of the leg (you had 
better turn the bench over upon its side to do this) so 
the iron socket will set into the leg flush with the sur¬ 
face ; then, after screwing the socket to the leg, trim the 
hole in the jaw so the collar on the handle end of the 
screw will set flat against the jaw, and screw the plate in 
place. Some of the bench-screws are made to go through 
heavier stuff than we have used for the legs, and their 
threads stop within 3 or 4 inches of the collar plate ; in 


8 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


this case it becomes necessary to set the socket into an 
extra block of wood (Fig. 5) and to spike this block to the 
back of the leg; otherwise, the jaw would not close entirely. 
Trim off the top of the jaw even with the bench top and 
bevel the outer edge (Figs. 1 and 4), then remove the 
temporary nails. Cut a peg to fit in the holes in the 
sliding strip, and whenever you use the vise, stick this peg 
into the proper hole to keep the bottom of the jaw from 
pushing in farther than the upper portion; the jaw must 
be kept vertical in order to make it grip a piece of wood 
squarely. 

Bore several rows of |--inch holes through the front 
apron, as shown in Fig. 1, and cut a peg to fit in them. 
This peg may be adjusted to support the end of any 
length of board placed in the vise. 

Never clamp screws, nails, or other pieces of metal in 
your vise without placing them first between blocks of 
wood, as they will cut up the face of the jaw and bench 
apron and soon make the vise unfit to hold your nice 
work. It is a good plan to have 

An Iron Vise for metal work; one of these can be pur¬ 
chased for from 50 cents to $1 and may be screwed to 
the right end of your bench (Figs. 1 and 6). 

Figure 6 shows 

A Work Bench with Tool Drawers, which is almost as 
simple to make as the one just described. The drawers 
are grocery boxes and slide into the ends of the bench 
on the upper rails of the framework (Fig. 7). The bench 



A Basement Workshop. 


























■ 


























' 











. 




Fig. 6, — A Work Bench with Tool Drawers. 



Fig. 7. — Detail of Framework. 


9 


































































IO 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


illustrated is 6 feet long, 24 inches wide, and 2 feet 8 
inches high, but as mentioned before you may change 
these dimensions to suit your conditions, and if you prefer 
to make a cabinet for your tools instead of keeping them 
in the bench, the drawers may be used to hold supplies. 
Figure 7 shows the framework of the bench. Make 
the end frames as described for the other bench, fasten 
them 4 feet 2 inches apart with the front and back rails 
D , and then cut the upper rails E which form the 
drawer slides and nail them to the legs 8 inches below 
crosspieces B. If you cannot find boxes of the proper 
size for 

The Tool Drawers, larger boxes may be cut down, or you 
can build up drawers to fit. Provide the drawers with 

removable trays, such as are described for 
the tool-chest shown in Fig. 43, page 31. 
Nail two guide strips (G, Fig. 8) to the 
bottom of the drawers and fasten an iron 
drawer-pull or a wooden handle to the front. 
Then nail two striking blocks to the back 
Fig. 8. —Box (//, Fig. 7) to prevent the drawers from 
Tool Drawer, pulling out of the bench, and two cross¬ 
pieces (E) in the proper places to stop the drawers when 
they have been pushed in flush with the ends of the 
bench. Figure 6 shows 

A Tool Tray recessed in the bench top—a good arrange¬ 
ment, as it provides a place to lay tools while working. 
This top may be made by placing a 12-inch plank along 















THE HOME WORKSHOP 


ii 


the front of the top, an 8-inch board back of it, and a 
piece of 2-by-4 back of that again (Fig. 9), and then 
blocking out the ends of the 
board flush with the top of 
the planking. To finish off 
the ends of the bench, fit in 
strips around the drawers. Fig. 9. —Plan for a Bench Top with 

Before adjustable bench - T ° o1 Tray * 

stops were put upon the market, a carpenter had to devise 
various makeshifts for shoving work against for planing 
and for other operations, and as many of these are still in 
use, I am going to show you a few of the good forms of 
Home-made Bench-stops, so in case it is not convenient 
to buy an iron stop, you can equip your bench with one 



Fig. ii Fig. 12. 



Figs. 10-14. — Home-made Bench-stops. 


of these. The stop shown in Fig. 10 consists of a short 
strip of wood, which is screwed in place to the bench 






































12 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


top, and the screw-heads are countersunk as a protection 
for your edge tools. By screwing the strip in place, it is 
easily removed when you wish to have the bench top 
clear. Figure 11 shows a block with a “ V ” notch cut in 
it. This will hold the ends of narrow pieces of work. 
Screw stops (Fig. 12) are a favorite form, as they are 
easily adjusted to a required height by givingthem a few 
turns with a screw-driver. The peg stops shown in Fig. 

13 have a big advantage in the fact that they are quickly 
removed. Bore two f-inch holes through the bench, cut 
the pegs to fit loosely in them so they may be adjusted to 
the proper heights for different pieces of work, and drive 
in a hammer wedge , or a wooden wedge, at the side of the 
pegs to hold them in position. The stop shown in Fig. 

14 is similar to that shown in Fig. 10, except that it is 

held in place with bolts instead of screws. 
Get two f-inch carriage-bolts about 4 
inches long, and cut several strips of 
wood about 8 inches long and of different 
thicknesses. Bore two |-inch holes, 5 
inches apart, through the bench top and 

Fig. 15. —An Ad- through the strips for the bolts to drop 
J r through, and countersink for the bolt- 

heads. This stop is handy, as the strips may be inter¬ 
changed to suit work of different thicknesses. Figure 

15 shows 

An Adjustable Bench-stop which retails for 50 cents. The 
pin in the center of this stop is released by giving the 







THE HOME WORKSHOP 


*3 


screw marked A a few turns with a screw-driver, and 
may be set to the proper height for your work and 
dropped flush with the plate when not in use. Mortise 
the bench top for the stop, and set the plate flush with 
the top. 

The other shop equipment is described in the follow¬ 
ing chapter. 




n-- 


1 1 ^ 


CHAPTER II 


TOOLS AND HOME-MADE 
SHOP EQUIPMENT 



Better results may be obtained with a few tools of 
the best quality than with an entire outfit of cheaper 
grade. Remember that, boys, when 

Purchasing Tools, and be sure that you get those made 
by reliable manufacturers instead of the toy variety, for 
though they will cost considerably more, their better 
wearing qualities will make them cheaper in the long 
run. You will find new-fangled tools for every conceiv¬ 
able form of work in the modern carpenter shop, but do 
not imagine for a minute that it is necessary to have 
these in order to perform the operations for which they 
are especially made. A good mechanic can complete 
almost any kind of a job with a handful of tools, but 
special tools do the work so very much quicker that they 
are adopted as time-saving devices, and usually are worth 
many times their cost in a large shop. 

Unless you have received instruction in manual train¬ 
ing, the variety of styles and sizes in which tools are 
made may make the selection of an outfit difficult; so 
to provide 


14 


















































TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 15 

A Handy Guide for Purchasing, the more desirable forms 
and sizes of all the tools which an amateur is ever likely 
to require have been described and illustrated upon the 
following pages. 

A hatchet, hammer, saw, plane, chisel, jack-knife, bit 
and brace, screw-driver and square are mentioned in 
“ The Boy Craftsman ” as 

The Principal Tools which a boy requires. If you can¬ 
not afford more at the start, add to them as soon as you 
can. Figure 16 shows illustrations of 

A Small Outfit which a boy will find sufficient for any 
kind of ordinary carpentry. Every tool in this outfit is 
an important tool and one which you will find necessary 
for general use. As your money permits, you will wish 
to add to these tools several sizes of chisels and bits, one 
or two saws, and such other tools as are used in advanced 
work, and in this way you can increase your outfit, until 
before long you will have a fairly complete set of tools 
of which you may be proud. 

First of all, you will need a good 

Jack-knife. By this is not meant a four-blade pocket- 
knife with a polished pearl handle, but just a common 
knife, strongly made, and having blades of steel properly 
tempered so they will hold an edge. A two-blade knife 
with wooden handle similar to that shown in Fig. 16 is 
a desirable form for all-round work, and is made in a 
medium-priced knife with blades of a good quality of 
steel. 


16 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

For general use 

A Hatchet with a claw (Fig. 16) is to be preferred to 
one without, as it may be used for withdrawing nails as 



The most important tools, showing desirable forms and sizes. Additional tools may 
be selected from those shown and described upon the following pages, as your money 
permits and your work requires their use. 


well as driving them. In buying a hatchet, select one 
of medium weight and see that it balances nicely when 


























































































TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 


i7 


you swing it, for, if unevenly balanced, it is cumbersome 
to handle and tires out the hand and arm muscles need¬ 
lessly. This is a point also to be looked out for in buying 

A Hammer. Get a medium-sized claw hammer, either 
with a bell face (Fig. 16) or a plain face, — it does not 
matter which, — and if possible get one with the head 
fastened on with patent-lock wedges which make it im¬ 
possible for it to loosen and fly off. 

An ordinary 

Tack Hammer is handy for working in small corners, 
but can easily be dispensed with for ordinary work. A 
much more useful hammer is the 

Crate Opener shown in Fig. 17, which is handy not only 
for prying boxes apart, but also for driving and withdraw¬ 
ing tacks and small nails. It may be used for numerous 
small jobs, and its con- Fig 

venient size makes it pos¬ 
sible to carry it about in 
one’s hip pocket. 

A Nail-set is required 
for driving nail-heads be¬ 
low the surface of work 
before finishing it. A cut iron nail may be used, but it 
is not as satisfactory as the regular nail-set shown in 
Fig. 16. You will find it handy to have two sizes, one 
for finishing-nails, the other for common nails . 

It is advisable to have 

A Wooden Mallet (Fig. 18) for mortising and cutting 




c 


Fig. 18. 


Fig. 17. — Crate Opener. 
Fig. 18. — Wooden Mallet. 



















HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


j8 

where it is necessary to drive the chisel or gouge, as the 
use of a hammer soon splits down the end of the handle. 
This is also useful for knocking together the members of 
halved ’ mortise-and-tenon , and other joints. 

The Cross-cut Saw (Fig. 16) is made to cut across the 
grain of wood. It will also cut with the grain, but as the 
teeth 1 are not properly prepared for ripping , the work is 
slower to do. When money permits, you should add a 
22-inch 

Rip -saw to your outfit. The 

Compass-saw (Fig. 16) is made especially for cutting 
curves, the teeth being filed to cut with as well as across 
the grain, and it is handy for sawing thin wood. A 
finer saw which you may prefer to the compass-saw is the 

Keyhole-saw, made for cutting keyholes as the name 
would imply, and used for various other small jobs. This 
is often made to fit in a handle similar to that of the 
compass-saw, but the more common form is the one 
which fits in a pad, as shown in Fig. 19. Other forms of 
saws which you will want to add to your outfit as soon 
as possible are the 

Back-saw, shown in Fig. 59, a saw made with fine teeth 
(get one with fourteen teeth to the inch) and intended 
for very fine cutting — such as for making miter-joints, 
cutting tenons, etc., and either a 

Coping-saw or Bracket-saw (Figs. 20 and 21) for saw- 

1 See notes regarding the teeth of the Cross-cut Saw and the Rip-saw on 
page 21 of “ The Boy Craftsman.’' 


TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 


i9 


fr 


Fig. 21. 




Fig. 20. 



ii ■■ 


cr id 


ing thin wood. 

A Scroll-saw or Jig-saw, with motor, will facilitate the 
cutting of curved pieces. 

A Hack-saw will be needed for metal work. 

A Jack-plane (Fig. 16) fitted with a smoothing-plane 
iron is to be preferred to a smoothing-plane, if one plane 
must be chosen, for its long sole 
(bottom face) makes it easier to 
plane up a surface without hollow¬ 
ing it. This plane, thus equipped, 
may be used for both reducing 
thicknesses of material and re¬ 
moving undressed surfaces (the 
purpose of the jack-plane), as 
well as planing up surfaces true 
and smooth (the purpose of the 
smoothing-plane). The jack- 
plane iron has its cutting edge 
slightly rounded, instead of being ground straight across 
like the smoothing-plane iron, in order to make it gouge 
out the wood and thus reduce thicknesses quickly, so you 
will readily see that it cannot be expected to straighten up 
a surface. Of course you can buy the two irons and make 
the plane the equivalent of a jack- and a smoothing-plane. 
The Stanley “ Bailey ” adjustable iron plane shown in 
the illustration is a better form to purchase than the old- 
fashioned plane with a wooden stock, as it is so easily 
adjusted. The No. 5 size (Fig. 16) is 14 inches long 



Fig. 19. 

Fig. 19. — Keyhole-saw. 
Fig. 20. — Coping-saw. 
Fig. 21. — Bracket-saw. 














ao 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


and about the right length. As soon as you can do so, 
buy a 

Smoothing-plane in addition to the jack-plane, for the 
two planes will save you a considerable amount of ad¬ 
justment of the cutting irons. The 

Fore-plane has an 18-inch sole, and is made long 
for the purpose of removing the high places left by 
the jack-plane and straightening the surface before 
smoothing up with the smoothing-plane, but it may 
easily be dispensed with by the amateur. Among the 
many other forms of planes upon the market, you will 
find a 

Rabbet-plane (Fig. 22), useful in cabinet making for 
rabbeting your work (Fig. 75, page 59—the plane-iron, 

or cutter , can be adjusted to any 
desired width of rabbet up to 1^ 
inches), and the 
Fig. 22. — Rabbet-plane. Dado-plane (Fig. 23), which is 

made for grooving (Fig. 75, page 
59). As the plane-stock of the 
dado-plane must be of the same size 
as the cutter, it is necessary to select 
Fig. 23. — Dado-plane. one having the width of cutter for 

which you will have the greatest need, for you will not 
likely wish to purchase more than one dado-plane. Of 
course, if you live near a mill, you can get all of your 
rabbeting and grooving done there, and it will hardly pay 
you to bother with it, or to purchase these tools. 



















TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 


21 


It is a good plan to invest in a 

Ratchet-brace when buying a bit-stock, as it can be used 
in so many places where an ordinary brace cannot. The 
ratchet arrangement makes it possible to so set the brace 
that, when boring a hole or driving a screw in a corner 
or close to something which prevents a full sweep, the 
handle may be worked back and forth. Buy a brace 
with at least an 8-inch sweep; a shorter 
sweep than this does not give sufficient 
leverage. 

A f-inch and a f-inch auger-bit are in¬ 
cluded among the tools shown in Fig. 16. 

Of course, it is often necessary to bore 
holes of other sizes, and 

Auger-bits f inch, inch, •§ inch, and 
i inch in size should be added to these 
as you find need of them. Bits are made 
in -j^-inch sizes, and the number of six¬ 
teenths is stamped upon the shank. Fig- fig. 25. —Wood 
ure 24 shows an Dnl1 Blt * 

Expansive-bit, the small size of which is provided with 
two cutters — one adjustable to bore holes ranging from 
1 inch to -J inch and the other from J inch to i-| inches; 
and the large size with two cutters — one boring holes 
from | inch to if inches, the other from if inches to 3 
inches. By having one of the large sizes of these bits it 
is not necessary to buy auger-bits larger than f inch. 
This tool is very convenient for boring large holes, but 



Fig. 24. — Expan¬ 
sive-bit. 








22 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


is not required, as holes larger than i inch in diameter 
may be cut as described on page 142 and illustrated in 
Fig. 156. Figure 25 shows a 

Wood Drill Bit. This is made in 3^-inch sizes, running 
from -£2 inch (No. 2) to inch (No. 14). Unless you 
have an automatic drill a few of these will be required 
for drilling holes for screws in hard wood. They are 
very delicate tools and “twist off ” very easily, and must 
not be removed from a hole by reversing the brace, but 
by continuing to turn it in the same direction, pulling up 
on the head of the brace at the same time until it has 
loosened itself. 

Brad-awls are the simplest and cheapest tools manu¬ 
factured for making very small holes for nails and screws 
(Fig. 16). They are sold in various sizes, one or two of 
which will be useful. A 

Scratch-awl differs from a brad-awl in the end, which 
is pointed instead of chisel-shaped. It is used for mark¬ 
ing work, but a jack-knife will serve the purpose just as 
well. A 

Hand Gimlet (Fig. 16) is also handy for boring small 
holes. 

For countersinking screw-heads below the surface of a 
piece of wood you should have a 

Rose Countersink Bit to fit in your brace (Fig. 16). 
This is used after a screw hole has been bored, and 
bevels off the edge of the hole enough to let the screw- 
head drop below the surface. 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 23 


A Hand Drill is a great convenience and time saver 
(Fig. 26). It can be used for metal and for wood. 
In wood working it is especially handy for drilling 
in places where a ratchet-brace cannot be worked. 
Drills can be obtained for it from ^ to J inch, in sets 
or singly. You should have an assortment 
of sizes of these drills. 

Another handy tool is the combination 
drill and 

Spiral-ratchet Screw-driver (Fig. 27). 

This may be set to drive or withdraw by 
moving a small slide to one end or the 
other of a slot on the side, or the spiral 
may be locked to make a ratchet screw¬ 
driver by giving the milled shell just below Fig. 27. Fig. 26. 

the slide a half turn. Three screw-drivers Spira1 ' *?and 

ratchet Drill. 

of different sizes are included with this Screw- 
tool, and a chuck to hold drills, together Dnver * 
with eight sizes of drills, may be purchased 
for a small additional amount, which makes this tool 
serve the double purpose of drill and screw-driver. But 
the spiral-ratchet screw-driver may easily be dispensed 
with if you have an ordinary 6-inch 
Hand Screw-driver and a medium-sized 



Screw-driver Bit (Fig. 16). 

A f-inch chisel is included in the outfit shown in Fig. 
16. This size will be found best for a starter. You will 
soon require a smaller chisel — one about J inch wide, 


















«4 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




/ 


s 


and when you have advanced with your work you will 
find that at least five 

Firmer Chisels, the kind made for ordinary light work, 
— sizes J inch, f inch, inch, J inch, and i inch, — will 
be necessary. For any very heavy work, such as outside 
building, you will also require a 

Framing or Mortising Chisel, which is made stronger 
for this purpose—ij inches or i|- inches wide. Some 
firmer chisels are beveled upon the face edges of the 

blade to make them handy for get¬ 
ting into corners (Fig. 28). For 
cutting curved grooves and curved 
surfaces a 

Gouge is required. This is simi¬ 
lar to a chisel except that its blade 
is curved instead of straight (Fig. 
29). A f-inch and a f-inch gouge 
will answer most purposes. Chisel 
and gouge handles are rounded on 
the ends for hand use (Fig. 29), but 
for heavier work, where a mallet is 
necessary, they should be protected by a leather cap 
(Fig. 16) or a metal ferrule (Fig. 28), to keep the wood 
from splitting. The chisel or gouge which fits into the 
handle (Fig. 29) is strong enough for hand use ( paring ), 
but those made with sockets for the handles to fit into 
(Fig. 28) are better for mortising and other work where 
driving is necessary. A 



mC-TjO 


i 


Fig. 28. Fig. 29. Fig. 30. 
Beveled Gouge. Cold- 
Chisel. chisel. 





















TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 


2 5 



Fig. 32.— Spoke-shave. 




Cold-chisel (Fig. 30) is often needed for cutting metal 
and is a good tool for you to add to your outfit when 
you can do so. 

A Draw-knife (Fig. 31) is handy for quickly reducing a 
narrow piece of wood in thickness and for cutting curved 
surfaces. It must be used care¬ 
fully, however, as it will follow 
the grain of a piece of wood 
and is apt to split off more than 
is desired, as is the danger 
in paring with a hatchet. A 

Spoke-shave (Fig. 32) is used to smooth up a curved 
surface after it has been roughly cut with a draw-knife, 

hatchet, or chisel, just as the smooth¬ 
ing-plane is used to smooth up a 
straight surface. This is not an ex¬ 
pensive tool and will be of more use 
to you than a draw-knife; buy it first. 

A Half-round Wood-file or Rasp may 
be used for smoothing up all sorts 
of irregular surfaces and is the best 
kind to purchase for a small outfit 

Fig. 33. —Five Handy of tools. The 

Forms of Files. Handiest Forms of Files are shown 

in Fig. 33. The wood-rasp is a very coarse file for wood 
working, while the rattail file, the slim taper file, and the 
flat metal file are made for metal work. You will find 
a coarse rat-tail file and a half-round wood-rasp handy 


V 

1 























26 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


for smoothing curved surfaces after sawing. A thorough 
sanding is necessary after filing to remove file marks. 

A Zigzag Rule or a 

Two-foot Folding Rule (Fig. 16) is required, and either 
a try-square or a carpenter s square is necessary for lay¬ 
ing out lines at right angles to another line or to the 
edge of a piece of work, for testing corners to see 
whether or not they are square, and for testing surfaces 
for irregularities. The writer prefers a 

Try-square with a mitered handle (Fig. 16), as lines at 
45 degrees may be laid out with it. The large size of 
Carpenter’s Steel Square has a body (the long end) 24 
inches long and a tongue (the short end) 18 inches long; 

but a smaller size with a body 18 
inches long and tongue 12 inches 
long (Fig. 16) will serve your pur¬ 
pose just as well and will be cheaper 
to buy and lighter to handle. 

A Bevel (Fig. 34) is a handy tool 
for laying out angles other than 45 de¬ 
grees, for laying out bevels, and for re¬ 
producing angles upon several pieces 
of work. It is like a try-square, only 
instead of being fastened rigid it is made adjustable. 
You can easily do without this tool for ordinary work, but 
it will be useful when you get into advanced work. 

A Marking-gauge (Fig. 16) consists of a block of wood 
(the head ) through which slides a graduated stick (the 








TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 27 


bar) with a point (the spur) near one end (see Fig. 68, 
page 52). The head may be set to any desired distance 
from the spur, then by placing the head against the edge 
of a piece of work and pushing the spur along the sur¬ 
face, a line can be scratched which will be exactly 
parallel to and at the required distance from the edge. 
The ordinary marking-gauge has only one spur; that 
shown in Fig. 68 has two spurs, is what is known as a 
mortise-gauge (see “Gauging,” page 52), and is 
the better form to buy. 

Wing Dividers (Fig. 35) come in handy for a 
number of operations, but are used principally 
for describing circles and laying off measure¬ 
ments. The thumb-screws make it possible to 
adjust the dividers very accurately to any de¬ 
sired measurement. Until you can get a pair 
of these you may use a stick with a couple of nails driven 
through it, or a piece of cardboard with a pencil and pin 
pushed through it, for a compass, and measurements 
may be laid off by means of a rule, a straight-edge (a 
stick with a straight edge), or a piece of paper. 1 



Fig. 36. — Spirit Level. 


A Level (Fig. 36) is necessary in building construc¬ 
tion to help the mechanic get his work plumb and 

1 A simple method for dividing a distance into a number of equal spaces by 
means of a rule and pencil is shown upon page 46 of u The Boy Craftsman. 11 



Fig. 35. 

Wing 

Dividers. 







28 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


level\ but it is useless in the shop unless you level 
up whatever your piece of work rests upon before 
testing. 1 But a 

Pocket Level (Fig. 37) is handy for getting approxi¬ 
mate levels and is cheap enough so every boy can own one. 

A tool with which ten different opera- 
c ~33 = ==) ^ tions can be performed is the 

' s -^ Odd-jobs shown in Fig. 38. Besides 

37. Pocket th ree operations indicated in the 

illustration, it may be 
employed as a markmg- 
gauge , a mortise-gauge , 
a depth-gauge , a try- 
square, a T-square, a 

scratch-awl ’ and a rule 


Level. 



with the tool). The many purposes for 
which this tool may be used make it 
a handy one to carry about for “ odd 
jobs.” 

A Pair of Cutting Pliers (Fig. 16) will 
serve as pincers and nippers. Besides 
these you will often be in need of a 

Wrench (Fig. 39) for tightening and Fig. 39. — Wrench. 

loosening nuts, and other operations; this will be a good 
addition to make to your outfit when you can afford it. 



1 A satisfactory home-made plumb-board for large work is described on 
page 153. 



























TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 


29 


For holding together glued-up work until the glue has 
set a pair of 

Wood Handscrews (Fig. 40) are handy, as are also 
a pair of 

Cabinet-maker’s Clamps (Fig. 41) for holding wide 





| 



N_I 


glued-up pieces; but you can dispense with 
both of these by providing yourself with 
several 

Home-made Clamps of different lengths 
similar to those shown in Fig. 42. These 
consist of two strips with two blocks of fig. 40. —Wood 
wood A and B screwed to them 4 or 5 Handscrews. 

inches farther apart than the width of the glued-up piece 

of work. Taper the inner 


■atzzfe 


t edge of blocks A, but leave 
Fig. 41. —Cabinet-maker’s that of blocks B square. The 

clam P s - work is laid upon the strips 

with one edge against blocks B, then a strip is placed 
against its other edge for a filler , and a pair of wedges 














3 ° 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


with one edge square and the other cut to fit the taper 
on the edge of blocks A are driven in between the filler 
and the blocks. Care must be taken to prevent the 
edges or the center of the work from springing up, when 
“ driving home ” the wedges, or the surface will be wind¬ 
ing when the work is removed. 

You ought to have 

A Carborundum Stone. One of the household size will 
do. It will serve for shop tools and kitchen cutlery. Belt 
the stone to a motor, or rig up a treadle for foot-power. 

You must have a good 

Oilstone. Of the manufactured stones the India oil¬ 
stone is being very extensively used, while the Lily- 
white and the Rosy-red Washita oilstones are two of 
the best natural stones on the market. Besides an oil¬ 
stone you must of course have an 

Oiler and a bottle of sperm-oil — or bicycle, automobile, 
or sewing-machine lubricating oil. 

If you have not built tool drawers in the ends of your 
work bench (Figs. 6 and 7), you must make a chest or 
cabinet as soon as possible to protect your tools from 
injury and from being borrowed without your permission. 

When the author received his first outfit of tools as 
a boy, he made 

A Tool-chest out of an old grocery box, this being the 
best material at hand; and as it was such an easy matter 
to turn this box into a chest and it served the purpose so 
well he has decided to tell you boys how to make one 


TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 31 

just like it. Figure 43 was drawn from this old chest, 
which the author still has in his possession. The box 
used was, approximately, 26 inches long, 13 inches wide, 
and 9 inches deep, but yours need not be of these exact 



dimensions, only be sure it is long enough to accommodate 
your large tools. 

After selecting your box, renail all loose boards and 
replace any that happen to be split with pieces from 
another box. Fasten together the cover boards with a 
batten at each end (A, Fig. 44) and hinge to the box 
with a pair of strap-hinges as shown. Buy a hinge-hasp 










3 2 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


’ll 

Fig. 45. 
Hinge-hasp 
and Staple. 



Fig. 44. 
How to hinge 
the Cover. 


and staple (Fig. 45) and a pair of drawer-pulls at a 
hardware-store, screw the hasp to the box cover and the 
staple to the box, and screw the drawer-pulls to the ends 
of the box for handles. As a check to prevent the cover 

from dropping too far back, 
attach a chain to two screw- 
eyes screwed into the cover 
and the box. The tray is 
removable and rests upon two 
cleats or strips nailed to the 
ends of the box. Make this 
tray \ inch shorter than the 
box, 7 inches wide, and 1^- inches deep (inside), and 
put the bottom, sides, and ends together in the same way 
that a box is made. 

Fasten a block with holes of the proper size drilled in 
it to the inside of the cover, in which to stick such tools 
as the brad-awls, screw-driver bits, wood drills and nail- 
sets, and tack some loops of leather to the cover for the 
squares to slide in. The upper end of the carpenter’s 
square is held by a couple of screw-hooks, and is released 
by giving one hook a quarter-turn. The small tools — 
the chisels, auger-bits, screw-driver, etc. — should be 
kept in the tray, and the large tools — the saw, planes, 
bit-brace, etc. — in the bottom of the chest. Notch the 
top edge of the box and tray, if necessary, to accommo¬ 
date the tools on the cover. 

When you have completed your chest, sandpaper it 




















TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 


well, then give the inside and the tray a coat of boiled 
linseed-oil and the outside a coat of paint or oil stain. 
A plan for an easily made 

Tool Cabinet is illustrated and described in “ The Boy 
Craftsman.” This is a very simple affair made out of a 
box with the cover boards battened together for a door. 
The author has been asked for a plan for making a 
paneled door for a cabinet, and as others of you may also 
wish to panel the door, he suggests that you build a 
frame of i-by-2 strips and set in a panel of wallboard or 
plywood. Rabbet or groove the inner edges of the strips 
(Fig. 75) for the panel. You may mortise and tenon the 
ends of the frame strips (Fig. 74), or butt them together. 

A tool cabinet is the handier receptacle for keeping 
tools within easy reach ; but 
a chest is to be preferred 
if the tools must be carried 
about, which is often neces¬ 
sary where the shop is 
located in a damp place, to 
keep them from rusting. 

In case you make a chest, 

A Tool-rack on the wall 
back of the bench is a good 

arrangement for holding 

& Fig. 46. — A Tool-rack. 

the tools while you are 

working. In the photograph opposite page 2 is shown 
such a rack, and Fig. 46 shows how it may be put 

























34 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


together. The chisels, auger-bits, wood drills, awls, and 
screw-driver stick into the holes bored through the bottom 
shelf, and the ends of the small bits are supported by a 
small bracket fastened below the shelf. Nails and spools 
hold the other tools. In the same photograph you will 
see how boxes may be bracketed to the wall for 

Open Shelves for your paint-cans, varnishes, and other 
supplies, and how a shelf may be supported above the 
rack for miscellaneous articles; also how the under part 
of the work bench may be utilized for 

Material Boxes by fastening boards across the rails to 
hold them. 

Nails and screws should be kept in some kind of 
order, so the sizes wanted may be got quickly without 

unnecessary hunt¬ 
ing, and several re¬ 
ceptacles for these 
are shown in Figs. 
47 to 52. The 
Partitioned Nail 
Box (Figs. 47-49) 
will hold six differ¬ 
ent lengths of nails. 







Fig. 48. Fig. 49. Cut the back and 

Figs. 47-49. — Details of Partitioned Nail bottom (A and C, 

Box ' Fig. 48) 3 feet long 

by 8 inches wide, the front (B) the same length by 5 
inches wide, and the partitions and end pieces (B, Fig. 



























TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 


35 


49) 6 inches wide by 6 inches high at the back and 5 
inches high at the front. Nail together the front, back, 
and end pieces, then nail on the bottom and fasten the 
partitions in place so as to divide the box into six 
equal spaces. The box may either be screwed to the 
wall or hung upon hooks. If you screw it, do this be¬ 
fore putting on the cover. Cut the hinge-strip (E, Fig. 
49) 1 inch wide by the length of the box and nail it in 
place to the partition tops. The cover may be made in 
one piece, or in two as in Fig. 47; hinge it to the hinge- 
strip. Mark the sizes of the nails upon the front of the 
box, and fasten nails of corresponding sizes in front of the 
receptacles with small staples or bent-over brads to help 
you to associate the lengths with the size numbers. 
This box has been planned for common nails and to hold 
sizes ranging from inches to 3^- inches long (4-penny 
to 16-penny). 

Another Box may be made to hold finishing-nails , 
papers of brads and tacks, and spikes (20-, 30-, 40-, 50-, 
and 60-penny nails). Bolts and screws may be kept in a 
third box. 

Empty tin cans and cigar boxes are easy for any boy 
to get and make excellent 

Receptacles for Nails, Screws, and Brads. There is a 
can with a removable lid in which molasses and sirup 
comes (Fig. 50) that is very handy, and baking-powder 
cans and even tomato cans, made clean by washing, with 
the opened ends removed, or thecutedges hammered flat. 


36 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


will serve the purpose. The cans may be hung up side 
by side on the wall, if mounted upon pieces of board 

provided with screw-eyes or 
holes (Figs. 50 and 51). To 
mount the cans, punch four 
holes through each and wire 
them to pieces of board as 
shown in Fig. 51. Cigar 
boxes may be fastened upon 
wooden brackets as shown 



Fig. 50. 


Fig. 51. 


Figs. 50 and 51. — Can Receptacles Fi°* ^2 

for Nails, Brads, and Screws. & 

After you have fitted up 
your workshop with a bench, shelving, racks, and recep¬ 
tacles, and made a chest or cabinet for your tools, there 
are still a number of pieces of equipment to construct 
before you will be ready to 
open up your shop for busi¬ 
ness. 

Figure 53 shows 
A Horse which is very much 
handier than the simpler forms 
of carpenters’ horses, in so far 
as the board top gives a 
broader surface to lay work 
upon and the shelf underneath makes a convenient place 
to lay saws and other tools. This horse is very com¬ 
monly used by carpenters. Details for its construction 
are shown in Figs. 54, 55, and 56. Cut the body A 3 



Fig. 52. — Cigar-box Receptacles 
for Screws, Bolts, or Miscellane¬ 
ous Hardware. 










































TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 


37 



Fig. 53. — Horse. 


feet 10 inches long out of a piece of 2-by-4, and cut the 
four legs B to the dimensions shown in Fig. 55 out of 
i-inch stuff, with one edge 
tapered \ inch. Trim off 
the upper ends of the legs 
as shown in Fig. 56, so 
when the legs are nailed 
to the body the lower 
ends will be 16 inches 
apart. Nail the legs in 
place about 5 inches from 
the ends of the body, then cut the end rails (C, Fig. 54) 
and the side rails D 3 inches wide and of the required 
length and nail them to the legs 9 inches below the body. 

Cut the tray bottom boards 
to fit between the rails (E, 
Fig. 54) and fasten them 
with nails driven through 
the rails into their edges. 
Cut the top board F 4 
feet long out of i-inch 
stuff and screw it to the 
body, countersinking the 
screw-heads as a protec- 

Figs. 54-56. — Details of Horse. tion y 0ur edge tools. 

When the horse has been nailed together, you will 
probably find that it does not stand evenly — at any rate, 
the legs will not be cut to the right angle on the bottom 



'F 5 WF‘j r 




tv» 

<J» 


$£ctjon- 

Fig. 54. 


Fig. 55. 














3 ^ 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


and will not rest squarely upon the floor. To allow for 
trimming, an extra inch was added to the length of the 
legs, in the leg pattern (Fig. 55). Set the horse in the 
place it will occupy in your shop, so in case the floor is 
out of level the horse may be made to stand evenly in that 
place, locate the short leg, and put a chip under it so as 
to level up the top; then take a block of wood about 1 
inch thick, slide it around the bottom of each leg, and 
mark a line across each face even with the top of the 
block. Saw the legs off on these lines; and if the work 
has been done carefully, the horse will stand perfectly 
even. If you find that the horse is too high after com¬ 
pleting it, it will be an easy enough matter to trim off 
the legs as much as is necessary to make it suit your 
height. 

You should have two horses in your shop across which 
to lay long pieces of work for marking and sawing. Of 
course a couple of packing boxes may be used until you 
have plenty of time to make these. You will also find 
that a chair will serve the purpose of 

A Saw-bench for small work about as well as a horse 
would. Such usage will be rather hard on the chair, 
however, unless the seat is protected in some way, so if 
you want 

A Chair Saw-bench, prepare a wooden cover that can be 
placed over the seat as shown in Fig. 57. Make this 
cover 20 inches long and 16 inches wide; fasten the 
boards together at the ends with battens of just the 




TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 39 

thickness of the chair seat and fitted to the curve or 
slant of the seat (A and B , Fig. 58), and screw a wooden 
button to each batten. Place several thicknesses of cloth 
over the chair seat, then set the cover over it and turn 
the buttons so as to hold it in 
place. You may protect the 
back by slipping a potato sack 
over it. 

It is necessary to have a 
miter-box to guide your saw 
in making miters . The ad¬ 
justable iron boxes now man¬ 
ufactured are the most satisfactory kind, but they are 
rather expensive to buy and probably will not serve your 
purpose any better than 

A Home-made Miter-box such as the average carpenter 
makes for his own use (Fig. 59). This box may be 

made of pine. Cut the bot¬ 
tom piece 4 inches wide 
and 14 inches long out of 
a ij-inch board, and the 
sides 5 inches wide and 14 
inches long out of i-inch 


Fig. 57. 
A Chair 
Saw-bench. 


Fig. 58. 

Cover to protect 
Chair. 



Fig. 59. — Home-made Miter-box. 


stuff, and nail the sides to the edges of the bottom. 
Then take the box to a carpenter and ask him to make 
two miter cuts and one 90 -degree cut in the sides. The 
method of laying out and cutting the miters is described 
in “ The Boy Craftsman ”; but, unless you have had 








































40 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



enough practice in sawing so you can saw very accurately* 
you had better have a carpenter cut these for you. 

A Bench-hook (Fig. 60) is used for a number of opera¬ 
tions. For paring with your chisel and chopping with 

your hatchet it furnishes 
protection to the bench 
top, which would other¬ 
wise be cut up badly in a 
short time; it is handy to 
lay sticks and other small 
pieces on for sawing with 
the back-saw, and by mak¬ 
ing a right-angle kerf (slot 
made by a saw) and a 
right- and a left-hand mitered kerf in the stop strip it may 
be used for sawing small work accurately. Make the 
bench-hook out of a piece of board about 12 inches square, 
and nail the hook cleat to the under side of one edge 
and the mitered stop to the opposite edge as shown. The 
kerfs in the stop strip may be laid out with a mitered 
handle try-square (Fig. 67, page 52), but it will be 
easier to cut them in a miter-box. 

The operation of truing the edge of a board is known 
as jointing or shooting , and to hold the work and guide 
the plane while shooting short, narrow pieces of work, 

A Shooting-board is generally used. Figures 61 and 62 
show the construction of one of these. Cut the pieces 
out of 1-inch stuff, A 1 ij inches wide by 24 inches long, 






















TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 41 

B 7-| inches wide by 24 inches long, C 2 inches wide by 

inches long, and D 2 inches wide by 24 inches long. 
It is necessary to have the faces and edges straight and 
true in order to make 
it possible to true up 
other pieces of work 
by means of a shoot¬ 
ing-board. Bevel 
off the lower right- 
hand edge of B (Fig. 

62), then nail or screw 
it to board A with 
the left-hand edges 
flush. Nail strip 
C to B so that its end is exactly at right angles with 
the right-hand edge of board B. Nail strip D to the 
left-hand edge of board A . 

In using the shooting-board, it is placed upon the 
bench with strip D close against the bench apron and 
the end of board A shoved against the bench-stop, then 
the board to be jointed is placed upon board B with one 
end against C, which forms a stop, and the edge to be 
planed projecting over the right-hand edge of board B\ 
with the plane turned on its side upon board A it is then 
worked back and forth until the edge has been planed 
off accurately. The bevel on the edge of B forms a 
groove which keeps small shavings from getting in the 
way of the plane and throwing it out of line. 


Figs. 61-62. 


Fig. 61. 

Shooting-board. 


















1 ' 


CHAPTER III 


ELEMENTARY MANUAL 
TRAINING 



Many of you boys are studying manual training and 
learning the use of wood-working tools, how to select 
material, and how to lay out a project and carry the 
work to completion. The time alloted to shop work, 
however, is generally too short to satisfy that insatiable 
desire a fellow has to make things. The solution is to 
be found in a home workshop. The instructions in 
this chapter have been prepared to supplement school 
instruction, and to serve as a substitute to boys to 
whom school manual-training is not available. 

There are all sorts of things which the average boy 
can construct without having had instruction in the 
making of wood joints, and in putting together an article 
and finishing it, but for any particular work, such as the 
making of furniture and things which you wish to sell 
or give away, you must understand how to proceed in 
order that the work may not only be substantially con¬ 
structed, but be pleasing to the eye as well. The sug¬ 
gestions and pointers presented in this chapter are in¬ 
tended to help you to attain these results, and those of 


42 

















































ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


43 


you who are studying manual training will do well to 
read over the instructions, as you will likely find some¬ 
thing new among them which will aid you in carrying 
out the work described in succeeding chapters. 

Every boy should, first of all, know something about 
the 

Selection of Working Material. The softer woods are 
better for the beginner to use, as they are easier to work. 
Of these, pine, cypress, spruce, fir, poplar, redwood, 
whitewood, and basswood are probably best adapted to 
amateur work. The selection depends largely upon the 
locality, certain varieties being easier to procure in one 
place than another. Clear white pine is the choicest 
of the soft woods for model-making, but it has become 
so scarce that it is practically out of the market. What 
is sometimes sold for white pine is sugar pine. Cypress 
is another very easily worked wood; the California red¬ 
wood is also good, and can be had in very wide boards; 
and whitewood (from the tulip tree) and basswood 
(from the linden tree) furnish excellent working material. 
Whitewood and poplar are close-grained, and well 
adapted to stain, enamel, and lacquer finishes. Their 
tendency to warp is great, but warping may be pre¬ 
vented by cleating on the ends or under side. Bass¬ 
wood is obtainable in large plywood panels. Because 
the plies are placed with the grain crossing, there is less 
chance of plywood’s warping than boards of the same 
thickness. Basswood plywood is desirable for jig-saw 
projects. 


44 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Of the hard woods, oak is best suited to the work of 
the amateur craftsman. It is easily worked, and easier 
to finish than many of the more expensive woods. Oak 
takes stain readily, and an attractive finish is obtained 
by staining, without filling, shellacking and then waxing, 
or varnishing with flat varnish. Ash, chestnut, cherry, 
birch, mahogany, and walnut are other woods which 
you may use. Mahogany and walnut are well adapted 
to lacquer finishes. But lacquer dries too rapidly to 
make a brushed-on job satisfactory, unless the surfaces 
are very small. You will find a satin-finish enamel 
better suited to your work. 

Many of you boys have seen how logs are cut up into 
boards, planks, and heavier pieces, but it will be well for 
all of you to know something about the 

Structure of Wood and how this must be taken into 
consideration in converting the log into lumber, as it 
will enable you to select and handle your material more 
intelligently. Figure 63 shows a cross-section of a log. 
In the center, or generally a little to one side of the 
center, is a circular core known as the pith, then sur¬ 
rounding this is a series of circles known as annual rings , 
and around the outside is the bark. The wood between 
each two rings represents the amount of one year’s 
growth, and the annual rings are produced as a result of 
the suspension of growth during autumn and winter. By 
counting the rings it is very easy to determine the age 
of a tree. The inner portion of the tree is known as the 


ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


45 



ARK 

Pith 
Annual rimcs 
MEDULLARY rays 

HCART-4MAKE 



Fig. 63. 
Tree Structure. 


Fig. 64. 

Cracks in Logs. 


heart-wood and supplies the more solid and desirable 

material (unless the tree has started to decay, when the 

first signs are generally to be found here), while the outer 

wood is known as the sap-wood , as it contains the 

greater portion of the tree’s 

juices. In the cross-sections 

of logs (Figs. 63 and 64) you 

will notice a series of lines 

radiating from the pith, some 

extending as far as the bark 

and others running but part 

way. These, called the medullary rays , are a peculiar 

formation in a tree and produce what is known as silver- 

grain upon the surface of all quarter-sawed wood. The 

tree structure must be taken into consideration in 

Cutting up the Log, and different methods of sawing 

are employed according to the purpose for which the 

wood is to be used. The 

common method of plant 

sawing is shown in Fig. 65. 

With this the only waste 

produced is in the sawdust 
Fig. 66. * 

Qua.rter-sa.wcd. and bark removed. But you 

will notice, by looking at the 
illustration, that with the exception of one board taken 
through the center of the pith, the annual rings cross 
the boards obliquely; this is the cause of warping. 
When wood drys out ( seasons ), the greatest amount of 




Fig. 65. 
Plain-sawed. 






















46 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


shrinkage occurs along the line of the annual rings, there¬ 
fore the longer the arc of the ring crossing the cross-sec¬ 
tion of a board, the greater the shrinkage along that arc 
will be, and plain-sawed stuff, having arcs of different 
lengths crossing it, will shrink unequally and warp as 
the result. Warping is more noticeable, of course, in 
wide than in narrow boards and must be taken care of 
by cleating or some other method of holding the wood in 
position. 

The board cut from the center of the log in plain 
sawing is the only one which will show the silver- 
grain to a marked degree. To get this effect upon 
every board 

Quarter Sawing is necessary (Fig. 66). The log is first 
sawed into quarters, then each quarter is sawed up radially 
so the surface of each board will be parallel with the 
medullary rays. Strictly speaking, the quarter marked 
A shows the only proper method of quarter sawing, as it 
is the only one in which each board is parallel with the 
rays, but methods C, and D are also used, as they save 
considerable waste of material, and boards so cut are 
sorted into different grades. The big waste, and the 
fact that more time is required in the cutting, make 
quarter-sawed stock much more expensive than plain- 
sawed stuff. The irregular pieces cut from between the 
boards are usually utilized for moldings and other small 
pieces, and this reduces the amount of waste somewhat. 
Besides the beautiful markings, quarter-sawed boards 


ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


4? 


have the advantage of uniform shrinkage and are not 
likely to warp. 

Knots , cup-shakes , heart-shakes , and checks are defects 
occurring in logs and produce a big waste in the manufac¬ 
ture of lumber. The portions containing these are either 
cut away or, where not very marked, the boards cut from 
them are sorted into the poorer grades of lumber. First 
and second grades generally admit boards with small, 
sound 

Knots, — pin knots and standard knots, — but if you go 
to a lumber yard or mill for your material, you will prob¬ 
ably be allowed to pick out pieces from the pile which are 
clear or which have knots in places where they can easily 
be cut out without spoiling the boards for your purpose. 
Cracks, however, such as 

Cup-shakes and Heart-shakes, the former being cracks 
between the rings and the latter cracks along the medul¬ 
lary rays (Fig. 64), should not appear upon any boards 
but those of the poorest grade of lumber, so do not let a 
dealer pass them off on you for first-grade stuff. Boards 
are likely to split at the ends through drying out unevenly, 
and these rifts are known as 

Checks. Very long checks extending entirely through 
a board are not admitted in first grades, but checking is 
likely to occur even after the piece has seasoned for a long 
time and is a common fault with large timbers where the 
outside dries out long before the center. 

After the boards have been cut, it is necessary that the 



48 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


sap be evaporated before they are fit to use. The two 
methods employed are known as 

Seasoning, which consists in piling up the boards in 
large piles in the open, with narrow strips of wood placed 
between each layer to allow a free circulation of air 
throughout the pile, and leaving them in this position 
for from two to four years, and 

Kiln Drying, the best method of which consists in piling 
up the lumber in a similar manner in large chambers or 
kilns and passing condensed steam through and around the 
boards for a period of two weeks, to open up the pores and 
cause the water to run out, and then shutting off the steam 
and passing a forced circulation of heated air through them 
for another two weeks. The latter method is employed 
on lumber used for fine furniture; but as a rule material 
for ordinary purposes remains in the kilns not over forty- 
eight hours, and often a much shorter time than this. The 
slower the process of drying, the better it is for the wood, 
for the reason that rapid drying destroys much of the 
elasticity and toughness. On this account and for the 
fact that kiln-dried stock is more sensitive to atmospheric 
changes, weather-seasoned lumber is much to be preferred. 
Lumber is spoken of as 

Stock or Stuff. As produced from a log, it is known as 
Undressed Stuff, and when the roughness left by the 
saw has been removed by the planer, it is called 

Dressed Stuff (specified D upon material bills). If 
only one side is smoothed, it is said to be surfaced-one - 


ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


49 


side ^marked if two sides and one edge, surfaced- 

two-sides-and-one-edge (marked S-2-S-&-1-E ), etc. 

Tongued-and-grooved boards (Fig. 75) are known as 
Matched Stuff (specified M) y and when they are also 
beaded, they are said to be 

Matched-and-Beaded (specified M-&-B). The beaded 
material is called ceiling , and is used for porch ceilings, 
backs of pantry cases, wainscotings, etc. 

Lumber up to 2 inches thick (undressed) is known as 
Boards, when 2 inches or more in thickness as 
Planks or Dimension Stuff, and when four inches or 
more, it is called 
Timber 

Stock Sizes of Lumber. Boards are reduced ^ inch in 
thickness and f inch in width from the original dimen¬ 
sions in the process of dressing, which must be taken into 
consideration in laying out work. In some localities 
this is allowed for in cutting up the log, but as a rule it 
is not. Thus, a board 1 inch thick and 12 inches wide, 
in the rough, would be | inch thick and nf inches 
wide when dressed, but as a matter of fact all i-inch 
stock is now being sawed about ^ inch under 1 inch, 
and as a result is only inch thick when dressed. 
Stock 2 inches or more in thickness is reduced \ inch in 
dressing. Thus, a 2-inch by 4-inch piece is only if 
inches thick and 3f inches wide when dressed. 

To avoid the use of fractions as much as possible, stock 
is generally known by its undressed dimensions, as follows; 



5° 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


i-by-12-inch stuff, 2-by-4-inch stuff (or simply 2-by-4’s), 
i-inch stock (generally spoken of as f-inch stock, which 
originally was the dressed thickness), etc. The regular 
thicknesses of dressed lumber are: f inch (f-inch stock), 
-f inch (f-inch stock), ff inch (i-inch stock), if inches 
(if-inch stock), if inches (i f-inch stock), if inches (2-inch 
stock), etc., the widths are if inches (2-inch), 3f inches 
(4-inch), 5f inches (6-inch), 7f inches (8-inch), etc., each 
succeeding width increasing 2 inches, and the standard 
lengths run from 10 feet to 20 feet in even numbers. 

In Purchasing Material, if there is not a mill or lum¬ 
ber yard near by where you can go and place your order 
direct, you can probably arrange with a friendly car¬ 
penter to buy your stock for you when he is purchasing 
some for himself. Make out 

A Mill List with the number of pieces of each size desired, 
the kind of wood, the dimensions (place the thickness first, 
then the width, and last the length) and the directions for 
dressing , matching , beading , etc., in the following order: — 


Pieces 

Material 

Dimensions 

Remarks 

12 

Red Oak 

X 3" X 12' 0" 

M-&-B Ceiling 

4 

V 

i" x 10" X 12' 0" 

S-2-S 

4 

tf )} 

l\" X 12" x IO f 0" 

S-2-S-&-1-E 

4 

Whitewood 

1" X 12" x 16' 0" 

S-2-S 

10 

Cypress 

1" X 10" X 12' 0 " 

S-2-S 

2 

Yellow Pine 

2" X 4" X 16' 0" 

S-4-S 

1 

>> 

2" X 10" X i8 f 0" 

S-4-S 













ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


5 1 


Lumber is sold by the thousand feet (per M), so after 
finding the existing retail price it is an easy matter 

To Estimate the Cost of your material. A piece of 
board i inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12 inches long is 
figured as a board foot . Upon this basis a piece 1 inch by 
4 inches by 12 feet would contain 4 board feet, and a 
piece 2 inches by 4 inches by 12 feet would contain 8 
board feet. Any thickness under 1 inch is figured the 
same as i-inch stuff. The retail price ordinarily covers 
dressing , but matching , grooving , rabbeting , beading , and 
other machine work is extra. 

Before attempting any shop cabinet making, a boy 
should spend some time in getting accustomed to hand¬ 
ling his tools properly, so as to be able to lay out work 
accurately, plane up a surface true and smooth, and saw 
to a line. “ The Proper Handling of Tools ” is described 
in “ The Boy Craftsman,” and it is not my intention to 
repeat these instructions here, only so far as it is nec¬ 
essary to show the right way to lay out a piece of work, 
to cut and join its various parts, and to finish its surface. 

Laying Out Work. Unless you lay out a piece of work 
accurately, you cannot expect to turn out a satisfactory 
job, because nothing will fit, and if you are careless at the 
start, you will likely be careless in the other operations as 
well. To guard against mistakes, it is always best to 
check up measurements as you go along. Use a 2-foot 
rule or a carpenter’s square with which to lay off meas¬ 
urements, and a carpenter’s square or try-square for scrib* 


52 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Fig. 67. — Scribing with Knife and Try- 
SQuare. 


ing lines between points and carrying them around the 
four sides of a piece of work. (See Fig. 67; also Plan 
ing Exercise on page 54.) A sharp lead-pencil may 

be used for scribing, 
but the work can be 
done more accurately 
with a jack-knife; how¬ 
ever, a knife line can 
be made only upon sur¬ 
faces where it will be 
removed by cutting or 
concealed by another 
piece of wood. 

When you wish to 
scribe a line parallel to an edge of a piece of work, the 
operation is known as 

Gauging. Figures 68 and 76 show how to gauge with a 
marking-gauge. Suppose you wish to cut a piece 3 inches 
wide from a 4-inch 
board. You must first 
test one edge and true 
it up, if necessary, to 
make it straight for a 
working edge (see Plan¬ 
ing Exercise ), then 
place the head of the 

gauge against this edge _ _ ., „ .. 

000 ~ Fig. 68 . — Gauging with a Marking-gauge 

of the board, and with (a Mortise-gauge). 







ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


53 


the spur in the shaft pressed into the surface of the 
wood (Fig. 68), scratch a line along the board for a 
distance equal to the length of the piece to be removed; 
also scribe the line upon the opposite face and you will 
then have a guide-line upon both faces to saw and plane 
to, which is exactly parallel to and at a distance of 
3 inches from the working edge. The gauge is also used 
for laying out various forms of wood joints. The double¬ 
spur upon the shaft of the mortise-gauge is provided for 
laying out the two sides 
of a mortise or groove in 
one operation (Fig. 76), the 
outer spur being fixed and 
the inner one made adjust¬ 
able by means of a thumb¬ 
screw in the end of the shaft. 

This form of gauge saves 
lots of time, especially when 
you have a number of mor¬ 
tises or grooves of one size 
to lay out. 

Figure 69 shows how 
gauging may be done with 
a pencil and carpenter’s square. Hold the body of the 
square against the edge of the work, with the tongue ex¬ 
tended across the face upon which the line is to be scribed 

V 

and the pencil held against the edge at the desired point, 
and then, with the fingers braced as shown to hold the pern 



Fig. 69. — Gauging with Pencil and 
Carpenter’s Square. 



54 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


cil steady, move the square toward you with your left hand 
The same operation may be performed with a try-square 
and pencil. You will require some practice before you 
will be able to gauge successfully in this manner, but it is 

easy when you get 
the knack of doing 
it. A rule and pen¬ 
cil may also be used 
for gauging, as is 
shown in “The Boy 
Craftsman.” 1 While 
these methods will 
answer the purpose 
for rough work, a 
marking-gauge is to 
be preferred for great 
accuracy. 

For a Planing Ex¬ 
ercise take a piece 
Fig. 72. — Testing an Edge from the Working of board about 12 
Face ‘ inches long. First, 

test one side, holding the board on a level with your 
eyes and sighting across it while you move the edge 
of the try-square along the entire length (Fig. 70). 
The square will strike the high places and you will 
be able to distinguish them as the light will show 
beneath the edge of the square, in the hollows. Locate 

1 Page 43. 



Fig. 70. —Testing with a Try-square. 

Fig. 71. — Testing with a Carpenter’s Square. 


































ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


55 


the high portions as you pass over them, by drawing 
a line around them as shown in Fig. 70, so you will 
know where the places are which require the most plan¬ 
ing. Also test the board lengthwise with the carpenter’s 
square (Fig. 71). 

A good way to test a board for winding (twisting in 
the length) is by means of 

Winding-sticks (Fig. 73). Get two pieces of square 
molding of exactly the same size for the sticks. To make 
the test, place both sticks across the board, one at the 
farther end and the 
other at the near 
end, and hold the 
board level and at 
the proper height to 
make the tops of 
the sticks upon a 
level with your eyes; 
sight across the FlG< 73 - —Testing with Winding-sticks. 

sticks, and if their tops appear to be exactly on a line, you 
may know that there is no wind to the board ; if one end 
of one stick appears above the corresponding end of the 
other stick, you can easily determine where and how much 
the wind is. 

After determining where planing is necessary, place 
the board in your bench-vise and plane up the face, test¬ 
ing it again and again until you find it to be perfectly 
true. This first trued surface is called the working face 










56 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


and should be marked with a cross (Fig. 67). With the 
handle of the try-square held firmly against this working 
face and the blade extending across an edge (Fig. 72), 
move it along the surface, locate the high places, and 
plane it up and test it as you did the working face. Mark 
this edge, which now becomes the working edge , with two 
short parallel lines (Fig. 68). Next, set the marking- 
gauge to any thickness desired for the board and, with 
the head of the gauge pressed firmly against the working 
face, gauge a line along each edge. Plane up the second 
face to the gauge lines, test and true up. The ends of 
the board should be trimmed off next. With the handle 
of the try-square pressed firmly against the working face, 
first scribe a line across the working edge, then, with the 
handle of the square against the working edge, continue 
this line across the working face and the opposite face. 
From the working face carry the line across the unfinished 
edge. Then, from the scribed line, lay off the length to 
which you wish to cut the piece and scribe another line 
around the four sides at that distance. Saw off the ends 
of the board about J- inch outside of the lines, to allow 
for planing them up smooth. In planing across end 
grain , the farther edge will split down unless protected. 
This difficulty may be overcome by placing another piece 
of wood in front of it when you clamp it in the vise, but 
it is better to chamfer the unfinished edge (see Fig. 
90), which is the only reason for not finishing this 
before the ends. After planing off both ends square, set 


ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


57 


the gauge to the width you wish to make the board and 
gauge a line along the faces and across the ends, sliding 
the head of the gauge along the working edge (Fig. 68); 
then saw off the edge to within about -J- inch of the lines 
with a rip-saw and finish the edge with the plane. 

For a Sawing Exercise, scribe a series of lines around a 
trued-up block of wood with your try-square, then place 
the block in your vise and see how well you can keep to 
the line while sawing through the block. Stick to this 
exercise until you can saw the block through exactly on 
the line, without running off at any point. Guide the 
saw with your left thumb until it has cut into the wood 
a little way, hold the saw exactly at right angles to the 
line, and use long, steady strokes. 

No better exercises in laying out work, planing, and 
sawing can be found than the makingof the 

Joints and Splices used for joining together pieces of 
wood, and it is important to practice upon such joinings 
before attempting to use them upon a nice piece of work, 
in order that you may not run the risk of spoiling material. 
Any odd-sized pieces of wood which you have on hand 
may be used for these exercises as the proportions of the 
joints may be worked out to suit the size of the piece. 
The most important joints and splices are shown in 
Figs. 74 and 75 (pages 58 and 59). By a joint is 
meant any kind of a connection between two pieces placed 
at an angle to one another, while a splice is a connection 
between two pieces placed in a straight line. 



,r 

Fig. 74. — Common Forms of Joints and Splices. 

58 


pi! ^ 

































































































































































































Fig. 75. — Common Forms of Joints and Splices. 


59 






































































































6 o 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


You are familiar, of course, with the 
Common-joint and the Butt-joint, though perhaps you 
do not know them by name, and no doubt you have used 
the Common-splice and the Fished-splice — a better form 
of splice — in joining together pieces which have been too 
short in putting up the frameworks for your club-house, 
tree huts, and other work. You will possibly have to use 
one of these in constructing the partition for a basement 
workshop, or an attic room such as is described in 
Chapter VIII. The above joints and splices are shown 
clearly in the illustrations and require no explanation. 
In the preparation of 

A Halved-joint, or Half-lap joint , as it is sometimes 
called, a piece equal to the width and one half of the 
thickness is cut away from each member so the pieces 
will fit together with their surfaces even or flush . The 
cutting may be done at the ends of the pieces as at A 
and B, or away from the end of one piece as at C, or in 
the center of both pieces as shown in Fig. 126 (page 113). 
Use a square and marking-gauge for laying out the lines 
for the halving. The wood should be removed with a 
fine saw if the ends of the pieces are halved , or with 
a saw and chisel if the lap is made at the center of the 
pieces. The end halved joint must be fastened together 
with nails or screws, but the center halved joint may some¬ 
times be fastened with glue alone. 

By joining two pieces lengthwise with a halved-joint 
A Halved-splice is obtained (Fig. 74). 


ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


61 


The Mortise-and-Tenon Joint is one of the most important 
of cabinet-makers’ joints, and you will have occasion to 
employ it in joining together work when it is necessary 
to make strong connections. Several forms of this joint 
are shown in Fig. 74, and the method of laying out the 
mortise and the tenon 
is shown in Figs. 76 
and 77. Both mem¬ 
bers of the joint should 
first be finished up to 
the proper size, except 
that additional length 
must be left on the 
tenon piece to allow 
for the cutting of the 

tenon, and the mortise 
piece should also be a with the Mortise-gauge. out ready to be Cut. 

little longer if the cutting is to be done near the end, 
to prevent the end from splitting. Ordinarily the mor¬ 
tise should not be more than one third of the width of the 
piece it is cut through, and the tenon not less then one 
third of the width of the piece it is cut on, in order that 
neither piece will be weakened by the cutting. 

I shall explain, first, the making of the mortise- 
and-tenon joint, in which the mortise is cut entirely 
through the piece. Lay off the length of the mortise 
equal to the width of the tenon piece and scribe lines 
around the four sides of the block to determine the ends 




















62 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


(Fig. 76), then set your mortise-gauge to the width of the 
mortise and scribe the two side lines (Fig. 76) on both 
faces of the piece. The width of the mortise should be 

made the exact width 
of one of your chisels, 
if possible, so that the 
cutting of the entire 
width may be done in 
one operation (Figs. 
78 and 79); this will 
leave little or no trim¬ 
ming to do on the 
sides. 

To cut the mor¬ 
tise, place the piece of 
work upon the bench 
with one end toward 
you, then with the 
chisel held as shown 
in Fig. 78, with the 
beveled side facing 
you, start at the 
middle of the space 
marked out and drive 
the chisel into the wood, then withdraw the chisel, set 
its edge about £ inch back of this first cut and drive it 
into the wood again; continue cutting in this manner, 
now and then prying out the pieces between the cuts 



Fig. 78. — Cutting a 
Mortise. 

Fig. 79.—Trimming 
up the Ends. 


Fig. 78. 






















ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


6 3 


until the farther guide-line has been reached, then reverse 
the position of the piece of work and, starting at the center 
again, cut from there back to the other end of the 
space. The mortise should be cut through one half the 
thickness of the piece, then the piece should be turned 
over and the remaining one half cut through from that face. 
The ends of the mortise must then be trimmed up, and for 
this part of the work the flat side of the chisel must be held 
toward the line as in Fig. 79. This trimming, or paring, 
should be done without the use of a mallet. A mortise is 
very often made by boring a number of holes and then 
trimming up to the guide-line with a chisel, in the same 
manner as is described for cutting large, round holes on 
page 142 (see Fig. 156). 

Lay off the length of the tenon with enough allowance 
for trimming the end later, then scribe a line around the 
four sides of the piece to locate the shoulder of the tenon 
(Fig. 77). Set the spurs of the mortise-gauge a trifle 
farther apart than the width of the mortise, to allow 
for the thickness of the saw in cutting, and scribe the 
side lines of the tenon from the shoulder line to the end, 
across the end, and down the other side to the shoulder 
line. With a back-saw cut the shoulders along the 
shoulder line, being very careful to saw exactly on the line, 
then place the piece in the bench-vise as shown in Fig. 80 
and cut down the sides of the tenon to the shoulder. The 
tenon should fit fairly tight in the mortise, but not so tight 
that it will not drive easily when coated with glue. If a 


6 4 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


little too large for the mortise, trim the tenon with a 
chisel. Short tenons may be cut entirely with the chisel. 
After fitting the pieces together, trim off the end of the 
tenon flush with the face of the mortise. One of the 

tenon pieces shown 
in the illustration 
has a shoulder cut 
upon all four sides, 
which is commonly 
done to conceal the 
edges of the mor¬ 
tise, while one of the 
mortises is shown 
cut but part way 
through the piece 
(a blind mortise); 

the tenon for the 
Fig. 8o. - Cutting the Sides of a Tenon. latter m0 rtise must 

be made ^ inch shorter than the depth of the mortise to 
allow plenty of clearance for the end. The open morlise- 
and-tenon joint illustrated is a common form and simpler 
to make than the closed joint, as the mortise may be cut 
with a saw and chisel. 

In making the furniture detailed in Chapter VI you 
will use the full-depth mortise only on pieces through 
which the tenon projects, and for pins , as you will see by 
looking at the working-drawings, the blind mortise being 
made in all other cases. 


























ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


65 


Tenons may be fastened in place with glue, nails, 
screws, pins, or wedges. For gluing see page 72, for 
nailing see page 74, and for screwing see page 72. 
The form of 

Pins which you will use most are those described for 
the construction of the furniture in Chapter VI. In Fig. 
74 you will see another common way of pinning together 
the members of a mortise-and-tenon joint. First of all, a 
small hole is bored through the sides of the mortise, then 
the tenon is slipped into place and the position of the 
hole marked upon it, and then the hole is bored through 
the tenon about inch nearer to the shoulder than 
where located. By changing the position of the hole you 
will see that the pin will draw the shoulder on the tenon 
piece tight against the mortise piece, when driven into 
place. For 

Wedging the tenon (Fig. 74), one or more kerfs are 
sawed in the end of the tenon, and after the tenon has 
been slipped through the mortise, wood wedges are coated 
with glue and driven into the kerfs, thus spreading the 
end of the tenon in the same way in which the handle 
of a hammer is fastened in the head. 

A Rabbet is a square-corner groove cut in the edge of 
a board (Fig. 75), and 

A Rabbet-joint may be made by fitting a square-edge 
piece into a rabbeted piece, by fitting together two pieces 
with rabbeted edges, and by fitting a rabbeted piece into 
a grooved piece. A rabbet may be cut with a chisel after 


66 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


the manner described for cutting a mortise (Fig. 78), or 
if it extends along the full length of a short piece, it may 
be cut with a saw; but if you have much rabbeting to do, 
it will be well to have a rabbet-plane (Fig. 22) for the 
purpose, or have your work done on a circular saw. 

Grooves may be cut with a chisel in the same way that 
mortises are cut, but this work is also simplified by using 
a dado-plane (Fig. 23). 

The similarity between a rabbet-joint and 

A Housed-joint often causes a confusion of the two. 
But there is no rabbeting in the housed-joint, the entire 
edge of one piece being fitted, or housed ,, into a groove 
cut in the other; so if you will remember this, you wild 
have no trouble in distinguishing one from the other. 

The Tongue-and-Groove Joint is one which you will 
probably never have occasion to make, and if you ever 
do, it will be best to take your work to a mill and have 
it done by machines especially made for the purpose. 
You will, however, have need of tongued-and-grooved 
boards for work requiring tight joints, and these, of 
course, are stock stuff. 

The Mitered-joint will be used a great deal in-making 
picture-frames and other cabinet work. It is always a 
45-degree cut and should be made in a miter-box (Fig. 
59, page 39) to insure accuracy. The illustrations show 

A Mitered-splice, or beveled-lap splice , used a good deal 
in splicing long stretches of interior woodwork. 

The Dovetail-joint is a joint you will never need to 


ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


67 


apply to your work, in all probability, but a great degree 
of accuracy is required in making it to secure a neat job, 
and for this reason it furnishes a splendid exercise for a 
beginner. The dovetail in modified forms is used in the 
manufacture of small boxes, and in the joining of the 
front and sides of drawers, in which case it is all done by 
a machine. 

Figures 81 to 84 show the necessary steps for dovetail¬ 
ing the ends of two pieces by hand. First, plane up the 
pieces true and to the 
same width and thick¬ 
ness, then taking the 
piece upon which the 
dovetail mortises are 
to be cut (Fig. 81), 
scribe the line AB 

around the two faces Fig. 81. Fig. 82. Fig. 84. Fig. 83. 
and edges at a dis- Figs. 81-84.-Details of the Dovetail-joint. 

tance from the end equal to the exact thickness of the 
tenon piece. Lay off spaces of | inch and | inch, alter¬ 
nately, upon this line and scribe lines parallel to the 
edges of the piece from these points to the end, around 
the end. and back to line AB on the other face. Next, 
lay off the oblique side lines of the mortises on both 
faces, then place the piece in the bench-vise, end up, 
and saw down along these lines as far as line AB , using 
a fine saw for the purpose, after which cut out the 
wood between, marked M, with a chisel (Fig. 82). Place 













68 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


the finished mortise piece upon the end of the tenon 
piece and mark off the tenons, then, to allow for cutting, 
move the lines over about inch each side of the 
tenons and, after this has been done, scribe their ends 
across to line AB, which should be scribed around 
this piece at a distance from the end equal to the thick¬ 
ness of the mortise piece (Fig. 83). The last step con¬ 
sists in sawing down along the side lines of the tenons 
and cutting out the wood between, marked T (Fig. 84). 

A Dovetail Half-lap Joint (Fig. 75) has the advantage 
over an ordinary half-lap joint of so locking the pieces 
that it is impossible to pull it apart, lengthwise of the 
pieces, without breaking the tenon. 

The Dowel-joint (Fig. 75) is a butt-joint , but the members 
are fastened together with wooden pins called dowels . 
The form at the left lacks the strength and neatness of a 
mortise-and-tenon joint, but is often used in cheap work. 
At the right is shown how two or more boards may 
be doweled together to form a wide piece. Dowel sticks 
of all diameters are made for doweling , and you can get 
what you need at any hardware store, which will be more 
satisfactory than to cut them out yourself. The boring 
of the holes in the proper positions and at right angles 
to the edges, so the pieces will fit together flush and flat , 
requires some practice. After you have jointed the 
edges of the pieces (see page 40), set your marking- 
gauge to a measurement equal to one half their thickness, 
and, from the working face of each board, gauge a line 


ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


69 


along the entire length of the edge for a center-line. 
Then place the boards back to back in your bench-vise, 
with the edges even, locate the centers of the holes along 
one center-line and scribe lines from these points across 
to the other center-line. If the boards are perfectly 
straight and the holes are bored carefully, the dowels 
will bring the pieces together exactly right, but in case 
you find they do not fit, it is easy enough to adjust the 
trouble by boring extra pairs of holes at the points where 
the boards are out of line, shifting the centers just as 
much as is necessary. Bevel the edges of the holes with 
a knife or a countersink to form pockets around the 
dowels for glue. To allow plenty of clearance, cut the 
dowels about \ inch shorter than the combined depths of 
the holes, then, after you have found that the boards fit 
together perfectly, coat one half of the length of the 
dowels with glue and stick them into the holes in one 
of the edges. Allow the glue to set , then coat the edge 
of each board and the other half of each dowel with 
glue, put the pieces together and clamp them tightly. 
Allow the glue to set for about a day before releasing 
the work. 

Battens are strips fastened across two or more pieces 
of wood for the purpose of holding them together (A, 
Fig. 44, page 32), while 

Cleats are strips often used for the same purpose, but 
generally so secured that the pieces will have a chance 
to swell and shrink . It is well enough to nail battens 


7 o 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


across boards in rough work where it is not important 
whether the joints remain closed or not, but it will not 
do for cabinet work. All woodwork expands and con¬ 
tracts to a certain extent with changes in the temperature, 
and when battens are securely fastened across glued-up 
work they do not check this movement, nor do the nails 
or screws give enough to take care of it, so the only other 
thing possible takes place — the wood breaks away from 

the fastenings and possibly 
splits from end to end. 
Figure 85 shows how the 
movement may be taken 
care of by attaching cleats 
Fig. 85. —The Proper Way to cleat to the work. These cleats 
Boards ' are held in place with 

screws, but the screw holes are bored about twice the 
size of the screws, and washers large enough to cover 
the holes are used to support the screw-heads. By 
placing the screws in the exact center of the holes, the 
ends are free to work back and forth with the movement 
of the wood. Cleats are attached to the back of single 
boards and glued-up work in the same way, to prevent 
warping, and sometimes they are grooved on to the ends 
of work. A strip fastened up for a shelf or drawer sup¬ 
port is also known as a cleat. 

You have now learned the difference between a rabbet, 
groove , bead, mortise, tongue, tenon, dovetail, and miter , 
used in making joints and splices, but there are several 





ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


71 






other cuts which you should know. When you read 
about the 

Taper on a piece of work, you must understand this to 
refer to a gradual decrease in the thickness of the ma¬ 
terial, forming a slanted surface or edge (Fig. 86). Then 
there is the 

Bevel, a flat surface cut obliquely to its adjoining sur¬ 
faces (Fig. 87), and a 

Chamfer, three forms of which are shown in Figs. 88, 
89, and 90. The bevel and the chamfer bevel are similar, 
but the latter is usually 
used only on end grain 
for the purpose of pre¬ 
venting the wood from 
splitting down when 
planing against it. 

Use a marking-gauge 
with which to lay out 
these cuts, and make 
the bevel and the 
chamfer bevel with a 
plane or chisel, the 
stop chamfer with a chisel or spoke-shave, and the cham¬ 
fer groove with a gouge. 

Woodwork is usually fastened together by means of 
glue , pins , dowels , wedges , screws , nails , or bolts . The 
use of pins, dowels, and wedges has been discussed. The 
best glue for you to use for 


Fig. 87. 


-Cv\MA?eR Urook. 



Fig. 88. 




Fig. 86. Fig. 89. 

Fig. 86 . —Tapered Surface. 

Fig. 87. — Bevel. 

Figs. 88-90. — Three Forms of Chamfers. 














































72 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Gluing up Work is the liquid glue sold in small bottles 
and cans. For work that may be exposed to moisture,use 

Casein Glue, a waterproof glue of great strength. 
Casein glue comes in powdered form, and you mix it 
with cold water in equal parts. 

Ambroid Cement and similar quick-setting adhesives are 
better for model airplane construction and other small 
model building. They are strong and light in weight. 

Use a brush to apply glue, a match to apply cement. 

Before gluing any work, fit every part together and 
make sure that no further trimming of the joints is neces¬ 
sary ; then wipe the portions to be glued with a cloth to 
remove all sawdust, and apply the glue thoroughly, but not 
too thick, to one part at a time. After the pieces have 
been glued in place, unless the joints are mortise-and- 
tenon joints or other joints which will drive together, the 
work must be held by handscrews (Fig. 40, page 29), 
cabinet-makers clamps (Fig. 41), or home-made clamps 
(Fig. 42), until the glue has thoroughly set , for which 
about a day’s time should be allowed. All surplus glue 
which has oozed out of joints should be scraped off and 
the surface sandpapered clean and smooth before any 
finish is applied. 

Screws will hold work together better than nails, in 
places where the latter cannot be clinched , and are to be 
preferred wherever it is possible to use them. The prin¬ 
cipal forms of wood-screws are the flat-head , the round- 
head or finishing-screw , and the square-head or lag-screw. 


ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 


73 


The last form is used for large, rough work, the heads 
being made like bolt-heads so they may be turned with a 
wrench. 

In fastening together two pieces of hard wood, or very 
thin wood, it is necessary to drill holes for the screws be¬ 
fore driving them, in the first case to make the driving 
easier, and in the second case to prevent the wood from 
splitting. The hole in the upper piece should be made 
a trifle larger than the diameter of the stem of the screw, 
so the screw will slip through it without binding, while 
the hole in the lower piece must of course be enough 
smaller than the screw so it will thread its way into 
the wood and take a good hold. In some cases it is 
necessary to bore the hole in the upper piece a good deal 
larger than the stem, as in the case of clearing (see Cleats , 
page 69). In rough work, or in unexposed places, the 
screw-heads may be driven in flush with the surface, but on 
particular work the heads must be countersunk (driven be¬ 
low the surface) far enough so the heads may be concealed 
with putty and whatever finish is placed upon the 
wood. Countersinking is done with the countersink 
(Fig. 16, page 16), which bevels off the top edge of the 
screw hole enough to allow the head to drop below the 
surface. Screws will drive into hard wood easier if 
soaped, that is, rubbed over a piece of soap until the 
threads are coated. This also prevents the possibility of 
slender screws twisting off, which they are likely to do 
when forced very hard. 


74 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Nails are made of wrought-iron, wire (bright and gab 
vanized), brass, and copper. Of these you will seldom 
use others than the common wire nail for rough work, 
the brad and finishing-nail for work where it is neces¬ 
sary to drive the heads below the surface of the 
wood, and in so doing to make as small a hole as 
possible, and copper or galvanized wire nails for boat 
building and other outside work where nails are exposed 
to rust. 

Holes should always be started in very thin wood to 
prevent splitting, and it is necessary to do the same in 
hard wood to prevent the nails from bending. The holes 
must be a trifle smaller than the nails and may be made 
with a brad-awl (Fig. 16, page 16), or a small drill (Fig. 
26, page 23). In all work but of the roughest kind, the 
nail-heads should be set low enough so they may be con¬ 
cealed with putty before the wood is finished. The 
setting is done by means of a nail-set (Fig. 16, page 16). 

Corrugated Fasteners reinforce joints between surfaces. 

Carriage-bolts are used more or less frequently in car¬ 
pentry in order to pivot one piece to another, or to 
hold several pieces together (generally in large work) 
where they are likely to be subjected to a strain that nails 
or screws would not stand. You will use these as king¬ 
bolts in making your bob-sleds (Chap. XVIII) and your 
wagons (Chap. XXIV), and for securing in place the 
rowlock blocks of your boats (Chaps. XXII and XXIII). 

Stove Bolts also are required for joining parts. 






M 1 

i i 


nil 1 


CHAPTER IV 

WOOD FINISHING 



The finishing of work is equally as important as the 
constructive part because the final appearance of the 
article depends upon the care with which it is done. 
Many a well-made piece of furniture has been ruined by 
poor taste in the selection of finish, or as a result of care¬ 
lessness or inexperience on the part of the amateur crafts¬ 
man applying it. With practice, however, any boy 
can master the common forms of finishes — painting , 
enamelling , staining , shellacking , waxing , varnishing , and 
oiling , so he can turn out a satisfactory job. 

The kind of finish to be selected for a piece of work 
depends, of course, upon the variety of wood used, the 
nature of the article, and the wear to which it will be 
subjected. For your sleds, wagons, boats, club-houses, 
and most of your home-made outdoor equipment, as well 
as much of that made for indoors, 

Paint is the most suitable finish. Ready-mixed 
paints may be obtained in various colors, and this is 
probably the most satisfactory way for a boy to purchase 

paint if he wants a large quantity, but for small work 

75 









































76 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


where only a small amount of one color is required it is 
best to buy the lead ground in oil ' of the color desired, 
and thin down with turpentine as much as is needed for 
the job ; paint may be bought in this form in i-pound 
cans. The balance of the paint in the can may be kept 
soft by pouring in enough water or linseed-oil to cover 
the surface; this may be poured off again when you 
wish to use more paint. 

As most of you boys probably know, the combination 
of red and yellow makes orange, yellow and blue makes 
green, blue and red makes purple, green and red makes 
brown, and black and white makes gray. Different shades 
may be obtained by using a larger proportion of one or 
the other color, and black and white will darken or lighten 
the color. By purchasing Venetian red , chrome-yellow , 
Prussian blue , lampblack , and white lead (or zinc-white ), 
you will be able to mix up almost every shade of any 
color you wish to use, but you will probably find in burnt 
umber or burnt sienna just the shade of brown you 
want, and in chrome-green or olive-green the right shade 
of green, in which case it will pay you to buy a can of 
each. 

In Mixing Paints, mix up at one time as much as will 
be necessary to complete a job, as it is usually difficult to 
match a color exactly, and a slight change in the shade 
will spoil the appearance of the work you are finishing. 
Try the color upon a piece of wood of the same kind as 
that of the article to be painted, before you go ahead with 


WOOD FINISHING 


77 



the painting, and allow it to dry so you can see whether 
or not it is going to look right. 

Brushes. Figure 91 shows a number of brushes which 
will generally answer every purpose of the amateur. 
The two large brushes will be needed for general paint 
ing, the two sash-tools for small work and for getting into 
corners, and the smallest brush for striping, marking, and 
lettering. Then there is the medium-sized 
varnish brush which must be used only for 
varnishing and shellacking, and the glue 
brush mentioned in Chapter III. When 
you are through painting, staining, or var¬ 
nishing, wash out your brushes in turpen¬ 
tine, or if you expect to use them in the 
same material within a day or so you may 
place them in water, which will keep the 
paint from hardening without injuring the 
bristles if the brushes are prevented from 
resting upon the bottom of the receptacle. 

To support the brushes, bore holes through 
the handles in the proper places so that when run upon 
a piece of wire and the wire is laid across the rim of 
the can or other receptacle, the ends of the bristles will 
not touch the bottom. 

In Painting wipe off your brush upon the edge of the 


3" FLAT PAINT-BRUSH 


I s /8“-R0UN0 PAINT-BRUSH 


2'- FLAT VARNISM-BRUSH 

B n ■ — 

I"- SASH tool 

'/i' - SASH-TOOL 

Wo.4 Marking-brush 


GlU£-BRUSN 
I - B l' .;-. ~73 
PuTTY-KNlFS 

Fig. 91. 
Brushes and 
Putty-knife. 


paint can after dipping it into the paint, so it will not 
drip and spatter over everything. Apply the paint 
thinly and always start at one end of a surface and woik 



















78 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


toward the other. If there are any resinous knots in the 
wood, first give them a coat of shellac to set the resin so 
there will be no danger of oozing through the surface 
after it has been painted. The first coat is known as the 
priming coat. After it has dried, the work should be 
gone over carefully and all nail holes, and cracks and 
other defects puttied up (s ee Puttying, page 84). After 
puttying, sandpaper all rough places (see Sandpapering , 
page 84) before applying a second coat. Two coats 
will be sufficient for ordinary work. 

Enamels contain varnish, and are prepared in satin 
and glossy finishes. You can buy them in quarter-pint 
cans and larger sizes, in various shades of all colors. 
The small cans are the best size for small jobs. With 
red, yellow, blue, black, and white, you can mix almost 
any shade of color that you need. 

An enamel job requires filled surfaces, if the wood 
is of open grain, and a coat of shellac or flat paint for 
an under coat. One or two coats of enamel will be 
sufficient over an under coat. But, omitting the shellac 
or flat paint, an extra coat of enamel will be necessary. 
Rub the surfaces lightly with fine sandpaper after all 
but the final coat. Flow the enamel on with a fine 
varnish brush (Fig. 91), following the directions on the 
can label for applying. Fast-drying enamels dry hard 
in about four hours. 

Lacquers are difficult to handle upon large surfaces 
without showing laps, if applied with a brush, because 


WOOD FINISHING 


79 


of their fast-drying properties. They should be sprayed 
on with a spray gun. You can buy spray guns that 
are operated by hand, and by motors. Indeed, there 
are several makes that connect with the reverse end of 
a vacuum cleaner. It is easy to spray lacquer evenly 
with a gun. You would have no difficulty with a brush 
lacquer job on small surfaces, but you will probably find 
fast drying enamels more to your liking. 

Lacquers cannot be applied over varnished surfaces. 
Lacquer brushes must be cleaned with lacquer thinner. 

Water Stains roughen the grain of wood, making it 
necessary to sandpaper the surface after an application 
has dried, but they have an advantage over the oil stains 
in the fact that they bring out more strongly the lines 
of the grain, the oil stains being less transparent and 
concealing, somewhat, the delicate lines and pores. But 
for the fine-grained woods, oil stains are easier to apply. 

Oil Stains are easy to mix, and the author advises 
his readers to do some experimenting along this line. 
With the colors mentioned under Pai?it , any of the 
standard shades of green, gray, and brown may be made. 
The prepared stains are accompanied with full instruc¬ 
tions for application. Before using your home-made 
stain, sandpaper the surface of your work thoroughly, 
then apply the stain with a brush or piece of cloth, and 
rub it in vigorously with a piece of soft muslin or cheese¬ 
cloth. Allow the work to dry for a day, then go over it 
and fill up all nail holes with putty colored with the stain; 


80 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

clean off the putty crumbs and apply a second coat of 
the stain. The surface may be left without further treat¬ 
ment, but it is advisable to put a coat of white shellac 
over the oil, and when this has dried to wax it, in order 
to produce a hard finish. Unless you protect the sur¬ 
face in some such way, it will become spotted, as the oil 
in the stain never entirely dries, and rubs off. 

Some very pleasing effects upon oak have been ob¬ 
tained by the author by applying the two coats of stain 
in two different colors, instead of mixing them together 
and putting them on as one color. For instance, to 
produce a green finish, a thin coat of Venetian red 
was first rubbed well into the grain, then on top 
of this a coat of chrome-green was applied (chrome- 
green may be made by mixing together chrome-yel¬ 
low and Prussian blue, if you do not wish to buy a 
can of it). The result was a pretty green with just 
a slight suggestion of a reddish tinge to the grain. 
The Drafting Table and Bench shown in the photo¬ 
graph opposite page 86 were finished in this way. By 
applying a thinner coat of the green than of the red, 
and wiping it off a little more, a pretty dark brown hav¬ 
ing a tinge of red showing through it may be obtained. 
The only difficulty an amateur will experience in put¬ 
ting on a stain in this manner will be in using the 
same amount of stain upon the work that he has 
used upon his sample, and in rubbing it down to the 
same tone; but with a little experience he will be 
able to obtain excellent results. 


WOOD FINISHING 


81 


White shellac must be used for 

Shellacking stained woodwork, as the commoner kind 
— orange shellac — will alter the tone of the stain 
and probably ruin the work. It is better to buy the 
white shellac already prepared. Use a 2-inch varnish 
brush such as is shown in Fig. 91, and if the shellac 
is thick, dilute it with alcohol just before using it, as 
it must be thin enough to flow freely over the work. 
Start at one end of the surface to be covered and 
work toward the other end, using long, even strokes 
and being careful not to skip any places and not to go 
over the same part of the surface twice; uncovered 
portions and laps will show through the finish and give 
it an uneven appearance. 

Shellac alone makes a splendid finish for articles made 
of soft wood, — such as kitchen and pantry conveniences, 
etc.,—and is quickly put on. The orange shellac is 
better than the white for this purpose, as it gives the 
wood a richer tone. You can buy the orange shellac 
chips and cut (dissolve) them by placing them in a glass 
preserve-jar, or empty varnish can, and covering them 
with wood alcohol. Dilute the shellac with alcohol as 
much as is necessary to make it thin, when you are 
ready to use it. Three coats of shellac are sufficient for 
an ordinary piece of work. Allow each coat to dry for 
at least a day before applying another, and sandpaper 
the surface after each coat has dried, to remove all rough¬ 
ness. After the final coat, instead of sandpapering it, a 


82 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


better finish may be obtained by rubbing the surface 
with a piece of flannel, or other soft cloth, dipped in 
powdered pumice-stone moistened with linseed-oil. Be¬ 
sides smoothing the surface, this rubbing cuts the gloss 
and produces an even, soft tone. All nail holes should 
be puttied up after the first coat has dried. 

Filling is necessary in preparing a surface for varnish¬ 
ing, to fill out the grain and make a smooth, level surface, 
especially on wood having a coarse grain, such as oak. 
Factory furniture, finished in Flemish-oak, weathered-oak, 
or any of the other modern stain finishes, is filled after 
the staining has been done; but you will secure richer 
effects by omitting this from such work, as it conceals 
much of the beauty of the grain, especially in the open¬ 
grained woods. 

Filling is best done by the amateur with a 

Paste Filler, which can be purchased at any paint store. 
The filler must be thinned with turpentine to the con¬ 
sistency of cream and then be spread evenly over the 
wood with a brush or cloth, allowed to set for ten or fif¬ 
teen minutes, and then rubbed off across the grain so as 
to fill all of the pores; do the rubbing with excelsior or a 
piece of burlap. The filler must be allowed to dry for 
about twelve hours before the shellacking is done. Filler 
may be bought in the natural and colored to' suit the 
finish to be applied to the wood, or it may be obtained 
already prepared in the color of one of a number of 
standard wood finishes. 


WOOD FINISHING 


83 


Waxing gives a stained surface a much richer tone than 
varnish, and is easier to apply. Prepared wax can be 
purchased at a paint store. It should be rubbed on with 
a cloth, allowed to stand ten or fifteen minutes, and then 
rubbed vigorously with a soft cloth until a polish is 
obtained. Waxed surfaces must not come in contact 
with water, for they will become spotted if they do and 
require re waxing. 

Varnishing is seldom done nowadays by amateur 
craftsmen in finishing woodwork, but it is necessary as 
a protection upon surfaces which are subjected to water, 
so a few pointers are given here. If the wood has an 
open grain, it must first be filled, then given a coat of 
shellac to form a body for the varnish. Flow the varnish 
over the surface with a varnish brush such as is shown 
in Fig. 91, then brush it crosswise of the grain and finish 
by brushing it lengthwise of the grain. One coat will 
be sufficient for all ordinary work, but two coats will pro¬ 
duce a finer finish. Several days’ time should be allowed 
to elapse between coats. The glossy surface may be 
cut by 

Rubbing it down with a soft cloth dipped in powdered 
pumice-stone wet with linseed-oil or water. After the sur¬ 
face has been rubbed and the pumice-stone thoroughly 
cleaned off, it may be improved by 

Polishing with rottenstone and linseed-oil, rubbed on 
with a piece of cotton-flannel. 

In buying varnish it pays to get a good grade, as its 


8 4 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


better wearing qualities will make it cheaper in the long 
run than the low-priced varnishes, which are usually very 
unsatisfactory. 

Oiling the surface of a piece of work accentuates the 
markings of the grain and gives to the wood a beautiful 
rich tone. This is an especially good finish for articles 
made out of cigar boxes (see Chap. XI). Apply the oil 
with a brush or rag, then rub it vigorously with a soft 
cloth, until you have worked into the grain as much as 
it will take, and wipe off the superfluous oil. 

Sandpapering. You will have occasion to use about 
four grades of sandpaper—No.ii for coarse work, Nos. ^ 
and o for medium work, and Nos. o and oo for fine work. 
Nos. o and oo are of the proper degree of fineness for 
sandpapering painted, stained, and shellacked surfaces. 
To avoid scratching a surface always sandpaper length¬ 
wise of the grain. For sandpapering flat surfaces, the 
paper should be attached to a block of wood. (On page 11 
of “The Boy Craftsman" is shown a specially formed 
block for this purpose.) 

Puttying. Putty can be purchased at the paint stores 
now in sealed one-pound cans, at about five cents a can. 
A small quantity will go a long way, and it is best to buy a 
small amount at a time, as it hardens very quickly when 
exposed to the air. Putty may be kept soft, however, by 
placing it in a can of water. 

Before using putty, knead it in your hand to zvork back 
into it the oil which rises to the surface, and if the article 


WOOD FINISHING 


8 $ 

upon which it is to be used is stained, work enough of 
the stain into it to make it of the right color. It is al¬ 
ways best to putty after the priming coat has been applied, 
in painting, and after the first coat of stain has been put 
on, in oil staining, as the oil soaks into the holes and 
cracks and the putty sticks better as a result. 

Painters use a putty-knife (Fig. 91) with which to press 
putty into the crevices of work, but you can use the 
blade of your jack-knife for the purpose, or a fairly good 
Home-made Putty-knife may be obtained by cutting off 
square the end of a five-cent potato knife. 

As a final word upon the subject of wood finishing, the 
author wishes to caution you boys to 

Be Careful of Oily Rags and waste and not allow them 
to lie around, for they are very likely to catch fire 
through spontaneous combustion . Burn up everything 
of this nature as soon as you are through with it. 

Crack-fillers are preferable to putty for some purposes. 
One kind comes in plastic form that hardens after a 
short exposure to air, and forms a surface as hard as 
wood, that can be cut, carved, nailed into, and finished 
the same as wood. This plastic filler can be used for 
building up surfaces and molding ornamental portions 
of models, as well as for puttying nail-holes, cracks, and 
defects. Another crack-filler comes in powdered form, 
and is prepared for use by mixing into a thick paste 
with cold water. It, too, can be worked and finished 
the same as wood, when it has hardened. 



1 


-;—; WM 

L 

==. 



CHAPTER V 

WORKING-DRAWINGS 



By a working-drawing is meant a mechanical repre¬ 
sentation of an object, either drawn accurately to meas¬ 
urements or laid out roughly with dimensions marked 
upon it, with which a mechanic can get to work and 
make the entire object complete. Sometimes, every part 
of the work can be so shown upon a single sheet that no 
other word of explanation is required by the mechanic; 
again, on more complicated work, general working-draw¬ 
ings showing the main portions of the structure or ma¬ 
chine must be prepared, and then all the minor parts 
taken up singly and worked out [detailed) on other sheets, 
forming what are known as detail drawings . In very 
complex work hundreds of these drawings are often 
necessary in order that the designer or draftsman may 
make certain that every part of the construction will 
work out properly and that the workmen will understand 
his intentions, and in many kinds of work it is necessary 
to furnish in addition to all these details printed or type¬ 
written instructions, known as specifications , to explain 
the kinds, grades, and sizes of materials, and complicated 

86 












































WORKING-DRAWINGS 


87 


portions which cannot be covered by notes upon the 
drawings. 

The average person usually has difficulty in reading a 
working-drawing, for the fact that he looks at it as he 
does a picture, expecting to see everything standing out 
in a photographic form. And until the beginner under¬ 
stands what a plan, elevation, and section are he will con¬ 
tinue to have this difficulty. To make the explanation 
as simple as possible, the working-drawings for a dog¬ 
house are shown in Fig. 92. The plan shows a view of 
the floor of the house as you would see it if you sawed 
through the walls and removed the upper portion, and 
then could look down squarely upon every part at the 
same time. A view looking down upon the roof in the 
same way would be a roof plan, and a top view of any ob¬ 
ject is also known as a plan. A view of the front of the 
dog-house, which you would see if you could look squarely 
at every portion of the front at the same time, is called a 
front elevation, and the same kind of a view of the side 
is called a side elevation, while if a rear view had been 
necessary to show special work it would be known as a 
rear elevation, and in case there were two side elevations 
they would be named left elevation and right elevation 
to distinguish one from the other, or in the case of a 
building or any stationary work the elevations would be 
designated by the points of the compass . By sawing 
the dog-house in two, crosswise, from the peak down 
through the base, removing the front portion and then 


88 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


looking toward the rear, you would see a sectional view 
of the house, and a true drawing showing this view would 
be called a section (see Fig. 92). A section may be 
taken through an object either horizontally or vertically 
(a plan taken through an object is in reality a horizontal 
section), and a section through the short way of an ob¬ 
ject is known as a cross-section , and one through the 
long way as a longitudinal section. A perspective draw¬ 
ing shows the object as you would actually see it when 
viewing it from one point, which is more or less similar to 
the view a camera would show. In this drawing the 
horizontal lines converge (approach one another) as they 
recede from the eye, which produces the same effect that 
is obtained when looking down a railroad track — the 
coming together of telegraph wires and tracks at a point 
on the horizon. A perspective of the dog-house is 
shown in Fig. 495, page 390. 

Working-drawings are made to different 

Scales, determined largely by the size and construction 
of the work. A very small object may be detailed full- 
size , while a building or a large piece of machinery 
would be shown at a small scale with J inch or 1 inch 
upon the drawing representing 12 inches on the object 
to be constructed, and different portions which are more 
or less complicated would be redrawn at a larger scale 
to make them clear. The drawings of the dog-house 
(Fig. 92) were made to a scale of inches to the foot; 
that is, 1^- inches on the drawing represents 12 inches 



A Corner of the Author’s Home Workroom. 

(For Working Drawings of the Table and Bench see Figs. 147 and 130, Chapter VI.) 
















































89 






































































































































9 o 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


of the dog-house. They have been reduced considerably 
from this size in order to show them upon the page, but 
the ruler across the top indicates the original size to 
which they were drawn. Maps and printed drawings 
reduced to odd sizes, as in this case, have a graduated 
scale placed upon them, but the scale of working-draw¬ 
ings is usually expressed in this form: Scale 12" = 
T -°" (full size) ; Scale 6" = T-o" {half size ); Scale 3" 
= T-o"; Scale = T-o"; Scale = i-'o", etc. The 
mark " stands for inch or inches and the mark ' for foot 
or feet. 

Every boy should be able to prepare his own working- 
drawings in order that he may work out his own designs 
for furniture, wagons, boats, kites, airplanes, etc., and 
no important work should be attempted before it has 
been carefully drawn out upon paper, for, as the maxim 
goes, 

“Working without a plan is sailing without a compass,” 

and work so constructed is bound to show defects either 
in the design or in the misfitting of parts. The furni¬ 
ture described in the following chapter is completely de¬ 
tailed and will give you a good idea of how such work 
should be laid out, but many of the other articles de¬ 
scribed in this book are illustrated only by sketches or 
perspective drawings, and before making these you 
should prepare drawings showing the work as you have 
determined to make it. 

A Drawing Outfit does not need to be an expensive 


WORKING-DRAWINGS 


9 i 


m 




rMWMCTAClt 


..AS* 


one, but as In the purchase of any kind of tools it pays 
in the end to buy only the best of materials; these are 
usually to be found in the medium-priced equipment. 

A Drawing-board may be made by cleating together 
several boards as described on page 70 and illustrated in 
Fig. 85, but you can buy one so cheaply that it hardly 
pays to try to make one. The board must be absolutely 
true upon the left-hand edge, and the wood must be well- 
seasoned and free from 
winding, knots and other 
defects, which points are 
taken care of in the 
boards you buy. A 
good size for small draw¬ 
ings is a student’s board, 
size 16 inches by 22 
inches (Fig. 93). The 
board may be placed 
upon your desk while you work, or you may make 

A Drafting Table such as is shown opposite page 86, 
if you wish. This table has a large drawing-board for a 
top, but an ordinary table top may be constructed instead 
if you have a small drawing-board to use on it. Working- 
drawings for the construction of the table are given in 
Fig. 147, page 132. 

A T-square is used as a guide for the pencil in draw- 




T- SQUARE 


lL. 


S2ZZ1 


Fig. 93. — A Student’s Drawing-board (size 
i 6" x 22") and T-square and Triangles. 


ing horizontal lines, and a guide for the triangles for 
oblique lines. The crosspiece upon the end slides along 



























92 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 









I 


the left edge of the drawing-board and is moved with the 
left hand. A 

45-degree Triangle is required for drawing oblique 
lines at an angle of 45 degrees, and a 

60-degree Triangle for draw¬ 
ing oblique lines at angles of 
60 and 30 degrees (Fig. 93). 
With the addition of a ruler, 
j\ a couple of pencils , an eraser, 
and 

Compasses, a boy will have 
f as large an outfit as he probably 
will require for making draw¬ 
ings for shop use. Figure 94 
shows a cheap pencil-compass 
Fig. 95. — Compass with Pen, Pen- w hi c h will serve the purpose, 

Fig. 96.-Ruling-pen. but lf Y ou can a£ford a P air 

Fig. 97. — Chisel-shaped and such as is shown in Fig. 95, 
Pointed Pencil Ends. *n i 1 ,, • 1 

you will be better equipped 
for a greater variety of work. In the illustration of the 
latter pair, A represents the body of the compass, B the 
needle point which fits into one leg, and C the pencil 
point which fits into the other leg, while D and E are 
divider points which may be substituted in place of the 
needle and pencil points to form a pair of dividers. F is 
the penpoint which is used in place of the pencil point for 
drawing in ink, and G is the extension bar with which 
either leg of the compass or divider may be extended. 


B ia 

Fig. 97. Fig. 94. Fig. 95. Fig. 96 

Fig. 94. — A Cheap Pencil-com¬ 
pass. 


































WORKING-DRAWINGS 


93 


Swing the compass with one hand, as shown in Fig. 98. 
For drawing ink lines other than arcs of circles, a 
Ruling-pen is necessary (Fig. 96). 

The ruling-pen must be held in a per¬ 
pendicular position, with the ends of 
the fingers resting upon the T-square 
as shown in Fig. 99, so they will slide 
along the T-square easily. The thick¬ 
ness of the lines is governed by turning 
the screw upon the pen, which draws to¬ 
gether or spreads apart the two blades. 

The ink is 

dropped between the blades by 
means of the quill upon the end 
of the cork furnished with the 
bottles of drawing ink (Fig. 
102). Figure 100 shows 
A Set of Instruments which, in 
Fig. 99. —How to hold a Ruling- addition to the compass A, com- 
P enci1, pass adjusting key B , pen point 

C, extension bar D , and ruling-pen 
E , has a pair of dividers F, a small 
sized ruling-pen G , a small pair of 
dividers H (bow-dividers), a small 
pencil-compass / (bow-pencil), a 

small pen-compass J (bow-peii), and Fig. 100. — A Students’ Set of 
a box Of leads K. A moderate Drawing Instruments. 

priced set of these instruments will cost about $6.50. 


























94 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


For laying off measurements, an ordinary 
12-inch Ruler (Fig. 92) will do, but at a slight addi¬ 
tional cost a specially prepared 

Scale may be purchased. One of these is a time saver 
in making scale drawings. Some scales are made flat 
like a ruler, while others are triangular in shape as 
shown in Fig. 101. Upon the triangular scales eleven 
sets of graduations are provided—12" (full size), 3", i|", 


! ft 


ff 


!// 


1" 


x , 4 , 2 , g , 4 , yq" } •§", and g 3 ^". In the illustration the 
§" and graduations are shown along one edge and 3" 
and i-|" divisions along the other. Each end division 


<!§ 


~ v \; 


T 


\ v-y-»T~v 


•yv y'A" ^ ^ A. 'V'j. 




\n,yVuuVu\,V 




\.\'V>'\>»WA'\'UU\AiU\iV'\AAAv\t\A\V 


Fig. ioi. — A Triangular Scale. 

of these is also divided into twelve parts, each of which 
for that particular scale.represents 1 inch. Flat scales 
are made with four or eight different kinds of divi¬ 
sions according to whether one side or both sides are 
graduated. 

Drawing Pencils are made in various grades designated 
by letters, ranging from 9H, which is very hard, down to 
6B, which is very soft. A 6H pencil is usually used in 
machine drawing, while a 3H is about the hardest used 
in architectural drawing. If you wish to use ordinary 
pencils, get a No. 4 or No. 5 (equivalent to 2H and 3H 
drawing pencils) for drawing upon hard paper, a No. 
2 (equivalent to a B) for a medium soft pencil, and a 
No. 1 (equivalent to a 3B) for a very soft pencil. For 







WORKING-DRAWINGS 


95 



drawing straight lines, a pencil should be sharpened 
chisel-shape ( A , Fig. 97), which may be done by rubbing it 
upon a piece of No. 00 sandpaper, and for lettering and 
drawing curved lines it should be rubbed to a point ( 3 , 
Fig. 97). For ordinary 
lettering in ink, Gillott’s 
Nos. 303 and 1 70 

Pens are most satis¬ 
factory, while a No. 659 
should be used for very 
fine work. 

Drawing Ink. Spe- Fig. I02 * — Drawing-ink Bottle with Card- 
. ,, itt board Collar to prevent Upsetting. 

cially prepared India 

ink (Higgins’ Waterproof India Ink is almost universally 
used) should be bought for use in preparing ink draw¬ 
ings. This comes in small bottles with a quill upon 
the end of the cork with which to fill the ruling-pen 
(Fig. 102). Drawing inks may also be had in colors. 

An Ink Eraser and a Pencil Eraser 
are also required, and an 

Erasing Shield (Fig. 103) is a great 
convenience as a protection to the 
lines close to those which you wish to 
erase, as an opening of the proper size 
may be placed over that portion, and the surrounding 
lines will be covered. One of these shields can easily be 
prepared out of a piece of thin brass. 

About the most unfortunate thing which a young 




o 


0 


Fig. 103. 

Shield. 


Erasing 


























9 6 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


draftsman experiences is the upsetting of his ink-bottle 
on a drawing after working perhaps three or four days 
upon it. This is certain to happen sooner or later, if 
the bottle is set without a holder upon the table, and 
frequently when the boy is careless. Figure 102 shows 
a simple protection, consisting of a cardboard collar cut 
to fit over the neck of the bottle and of a large enough 



FlG. 104.—Cigar-box Pencil Box and 
Inkstand. 


diameter to make it impos¬ 
sible to upset the ink. 

A Home-made Pencil Box 
and Inkstand such as is 
shown in Fig. 104 is very 
convenient. It is made out 
of a cigar box. One corner 
of the box is partitioned 
off to hold the ink-bottle, 
and the cover has a hole cut 
through it so it will fit over 


the top of the cork when closed. The box will serve the 
purpose of a receptacle not only for pencils, but for your 
pens, thumb-tacks, erasers, and erasing shield as well. 

You may use small 1-ounce fiat-head tacks for holding 
down drawing-paper, but these are not as easily removed 
as regular 

Thumb-tacks, the best form of which is shown in 
Fig- 93 - 

Drawing-paper specially prepared for pencil or ink may 
be purchased in sheets or rolls. For common use, how 































WORKING-DRAWINGS 


97 


ever, butchers’ Manila wrapping paper will serve the 
purpose, and the back of smooth medium-weight wall¬ 
paper has a good surface. Out-of-date stock of wall¬ 
paper can be purchased for a few cents a roll. The 
chief trouble with the common paper is that it roughens 
up when erased, but this will not be a serious objection for 
your shop drawings, and when you wish to prepare better 
appearing drawings, you may copy them upon better 
paper. 

The white-lined drawings which you have seen upon 
blue paper are known as 

Blueprints and are printed upon sensitized paper in 
the same way that a photograph blueprint is made from 
a plate or film. The negative in this case is prepared 
upon 

Tracing-cloth, which is a linen specially prepared so as 
to be very transparent, or upon 

Tracing-paper, which is a very transparent paper. The 
cloth or paper is tacked down over the drawing, and then 
everything is traced off upon it with ink exactly as it is 
upon the drawing below. The cloth has a glazed and a 
dull side, the former the right side, but the latter the one 
generally preferred by draftsmen as the better working 
surface. To make the ink flow smoothly, talcum powder 
is dusted upon the cloth and rubbed over it with a rag 
to cut any oil which may have collected upon the surface. 
Ink lines erase very easily from the cloth, and all pencil 
lines and dirt may be cleaned off after the tracing has 


9 8 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Fig. 106. 


been finished by wiping with a rag wet in benzine (do not 
use water , for it will ruin the finish surface on the cloth), 
which makes the use of the cloth for ink tracings almost 

universal. Trac¬ 
ing-paper is used, 
generally, for 
making pencil 
copies of draw¬ 
ings, and for mak¬ 
ing one drawing 
over another 
when the same 
measu rements 
are to be used in 
both, as will be 
explained later. 

After a tracing 
has been pre¬ 
pared it is placed 
in the printing- 
Fig. IQ;,. frame upon a 

Figs. 105-107. — Details of Home-made Blueprint piece of clear 

frame. 1 i 

glass and a piece 

of blueprint paper is placed over it, then the paper is 
exposed and washed in the same way that an ordinary 
blueprint is made. If you own a photograph printing- 
frame, you can make your drawings to a small enough 
scale to fit it, but it is a simple matter to construct 





\ 


Side Elevation 


(L 


Df*»is Of T*uouPrT 

oU ... B* /f*X 

*oet »■» 81 L'J 

' - let » ■ • t» Q- ^ 


















































WORKING-DRAWINGS 


99 


A Home-made Printing-frame. A good scheme is shown 
in Fig. 105. This may be made out of a picture-frame, 
or a similar frame can be made with the corners mitered 
and a rabbet formed on the inside by tacking narrow 
strips to the frame strips, as shown in Fig. 107. The 
wooden back must be provided with a spring attachment 
to make an equal pressure upon all parts, so there will be 
perfect contact between the paper and tracing at all points 
(Fig. 106). Make this back out of J-inch stuff, in one 
piece if possible, and fasten a cleat across it near each 
end to keep it from warping (A and B , Fig. 106), then 
cut strip C of the proper length to reach from A to B 
and strip D to reach from side to side of the frame. 
Screw C and D together at their centers, boring a hole 
through D for the screw to run through so this strip will 
turn easily, and screw the ends of Cto A and B. Fasten 
a metal sash-lift in the proper place upon each side of the 
frame, and bevel off the ends of strip D enough so they 
will slip under them. The strips must be cut to the 
proper thickness so that strip D will have to be bent in 
the shape of a bow to slip its ends under the sash-lifts; 
this places a pressure upon strip C, which transfers it to 
strips A and B , and the latter distribute it over the back 
of the frame. The back of the frame should be covered 
with a piece of thin cotton-flannel; this must be glued in 
place and smoothed out carefully so there will be no 
wrinkles. A cheaper grade of paper than that used for 
photographic work is manufactured for blueprinting, and 


IOO 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


this can be purchased in rolls put up in sealed tubes. 
Use a small piece of paper to make a test print upon, to 
determine the proper length of time for exposure. 

Preparing Working-drawings. Before laying out a set of 
working-drawings, the general plan of the piece of work 
must be sketched out, and the various dimensions and 
the method of construction determined upon. All this 
preliminary work may be done very roughly. 

The first part to lay out is the plan, then the elevations 
and sections. It is often necessary to work out a sec¬ 
tion before the elevations, or at the same time, as in the 
case of a house where the heights of the exterior features 
are determined by the wall and floor construction. By 
placing the drawings as shown in Fig. 92, the lines of the 
plan may be continued down ( projected ) for the cross-sec¬ 
tion, and the heights may be projected horizontally to the 
left for the front elevation and to the right for the side ele¬ 
vation, while the corner spaces may be filled with detail 
drawings. In the details of the dog-house, the side lines 
of the ends were projected up from the front elevation, and 
those of the sides were carried up from the side elevation. 
Although there are many other schemes for laying out a 
set of drawings, this is about the simplest method for you 
to use in your work, which will be more or less simple. In 
more complicated work it is general practice, especially 
in the planning of buildings, to place a piece of trac¬ 
ing-paper over the plan after that has been laid out, and 
to lay out the section upon this, then to place another 


WORKING-DRAWINGS 


IOI 


piece of tracing-paper over the section and lay out a front 
elevation upon this. The transparency of the paper 
makes it possible for the draftsman to see through the 
sheets and, without having to lay out the main widths and 
the heights again, to mark them off upon the top sheet 
just as they are located upon the plan and section sheets 
below. After the front elevation has been laid out, one 
of the side elevations is prepared in the same way, from 
the plan and either the front elevation or section; the 
opposite side elevation and the rear elevation are made 
by reversing the side elevation and front elevation sheets 
and tracing off the similar portions and changing the 
rest to suit the plan. 

Lay out your drawings with a light line first, then 
check up your measurements, and if everything appears, all 
right, go over the work and make all the outlines heavy. 
Cross-hatch (shade with diagonal lines placed at equal 
distances apart) all portions of the plan and section which 
are “cut through,” in order to show which is in section 
and which in elevation, and change the direction of the 
cross-hatching upon adjoining pieces to accent the point 
where one piece ends and another begins. After the draw¬ 
ing has been completed, 

Draw Dimension-lines upon the plan, section, elevations, 
and details wherever measurements are necessary (these 
should be broken lines and be lighter than the outlines); 
then fill in the dimensions in feet and inches. 

Besides the heavy and light full lines, and the broken 


102 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


dimension-lines, you will have occasion to use a dot-and- 
dash line for center-lines and to indicate upon the plan 
where sections have been made (Fig. 92), and the dotted 
line to indicate upon plan, sections, elevations, and details 
the work concealed and that which is above or upon the 
opposite side (see Furniture Working-drawings, Chap. 
VI), and to show where material is to be cut or folded 
(see Fig. 262, page 194). 

Always leave a space in one corner of the sheet, 
preferably the upper or lower right-hand corner, in which 
to 

Letter the Title of your Drawing, your name, the scale 
of the drawing, and the date upon which it is finished 
(Fig. 92). This lettering may be separated from the 
drawing by heavy lines. Draw 

Marginal Lines around the outside of the drawing, and 
leave a margin of about inch upon the sheet outside 
of this line. Plain 

Gothic Letters look best for titles and notes, when 
well made. Always rule two light horizontal guide-lines 
between which to letter, so that it will be easy to keep 
the tops and bottoms of the letters on a line, and if you 
have trouble in making vertical lines, you may use a tri¬ 
angle with which to straighten them. 


. V - *'7 

]TIT 

__ 


H 

7 

> 

1 


CHAPTER VI 

EASILY MADE FURNITURE 



If you have carried out the exercises of the preceding 
chapters and studied carefully all instructions, there is 
no reason why you should not be prepared to under¬ 
take some simple cabinet making. This work will be a 
better test of your skill as a craftsman than would any 
other kind of carpentry. 

If I am not mistaken, what you boys want to make in 
furniture are things which will be of practical use for 
your own room and for other parts of the house, and 
things which will be suitable to give away and to sell. The 
articles described upon the following pages have been 
selected with these points in mind. After you have 
turned out a few well-made pieces so you will have some 
good samples to show, you should have no difficulty in 
securing enough orders at fairs, and from friends and 
relatives, to enable you to work up a profitable little 
business, especially a month or so before the holidays, 
when practical gifts are much in demand. 

Many boys are earning money in this way. An in¬ 
teresting example is the factory of “The Juvenile Manu- 

103 










































104 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


facturing Company,” an organization of six energetic 
boys of Dayton, Ohio — Masters Charles Deeds, Pres, 
and Gen. Mgr., Fulton Davisson, Jr., Vice Pres, and 
Supt., Robert Canby, Secy., Charles Whidden, Treas., 
and Stanley Raugh and Evan Whidden. These boys 
are doing a flourishing business, and from the excellent 
work they are turning out it is no wonder that they are 
succeeding so well. The firm has issued an attractive 
catalogue of 8 pages containing illustrations of their line 
of goods, a group photograph of the officers and Board 
of Directors, an exterior view of the office and factory,-— 
which is fitted up in a playhouse belonging to one of the 
boys, — and two views of completed orders loaded on to 
automobiles ready for local delivery and shipment to out- 
of-town customers. The catalogue states, in part, the 
following: — 

“ The plant is running Mondays, Thursdays, and Fridays after school, 
and all day Saturdays. Visitors are welcome on Saturdays. 

“ Only the best materials are used, and no cheap laborers are em¬ 
ployed ; the officers and Board of Directors do the work themselves. 

“ The purchaser of any article produced by this Company is not only 
getting more value for the money paid than he could get at any store, 
but at the same time is encouraging a Company of energetic little busi¬ 
ness men to get a training which is most practical. 

“ Our business is meeting with great success. We are always behind 
with our orders. Our customers are our best advertisers because we 
give them more for their money than they can get anywhere else.” 

You will have to hustle some, boys, to accomplish 
what these lads have, but there is no reason why you 





Fig. 108. 


Fig. 109. 


Fig. 108. Whisk-Broom Holder. 

Fig. 109. Clock-Shelf. 

Figs. 110 and 111. Necktie-Racks. 
Figs. 112, 113 and 114. Book-Racks. 


Fig. 111. 


Fig. 110 . 


























































EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


I0 5 

cannot make a success of a similar enterprise in your 
own home town if you know of a number of fellows who 
would be good workers and would have enough stick-to- 
it-iveness in them to keep up an interest in the work. 

The articles shown opposite page 104 are especially 
good material for the beginner to start upon on account 
of the simplicity of their construction. 

Choice of Material. There are a number of varieties 
of wood well adapted to amateur furniture making, and 
these are mentioned in Chapter III, while the matter of 
finish is discussed in Chapter IV. 

A Whisk-broom Holder such as is shown in Fig. 108 is 
a handy article for a bedroom. It should be made out 
of ^--inch stuff (which is § inch thick dressed) with the 
different parts cut as shown in the working-drawings 
(Fig. 115). In order to get the two side edges of the 
back piece alike, first draw a center-line upon the piece 
of wood as shown, then lay off the dimensions each side 
of this. Draw the curve upon one side, then reproduce 
it upon the other side at an equal distance from the 
center-line, tracing it off with a piece of tracing-paper to 
get the curves alike. Lay off the tapered edges of the 
front piece each side of a center-line in the same way. 
With the front, back, and side pieces prepared, nail them 
together with i-inch brads, set the brad-heads, then 
sandpaper, putty, and finish. 

A Clock-shelf is a neat gift, and Fig. 109 shows one 
which is easily constructed. Make this out of i-inch 


io6 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


stuff (^| inch thick dressed). After cutting the top and 
two brackets as shown in Fig. 116, bevel the upper front 
and end edges of the top piece and the two diagonal 
edges of each bracket piece, gauging the width and 





Fig. i i 7. — Detail of Back of Necktie Rack shown 

in Fig. 110. 



Fig. hi. 

-12 




Fig. 115. — Whisk- 
broom Holder 
shown in Fig. 108. 


r 

•i 

1 

i 



—5' 


-e... 



Fig. 116. — Details of Clock-shelf shown in Fig. 109. 


depth of the bevels and cutting them as described on 
page 71 (see Bevel), Fasten the brackets to the top 
piece with i^-inch finishing-nails in the positions indi¬ 
cated by dotted lines in the drawing. In the back view 




































































EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


107 

of the completed shelf (Fig. 109) is shown the method of 
fastening it to a wall. A screw-eye is screwed into the 
under side of the shelf top, just inside of each bracket, 
and these eyes slip over a couple of nails or screws driven 
into the wall in corresponding positions. 

The Necktie Rack shown in Fig. 110 has a back cut out 
of J-inch stuff (see working-drawing for back in Fig. 117) 
with seven brass screw-hooks screwed into it in two 
rows. Scribe two pencil lines across the center of the 
board about 1 inch apart, then starting at the center of 
the length of the board, mark the location of the center 
hook, and each side of this locate the other hooks 2 
inches apart, alternating them on the two lines as shown. 
Fasten two screw-eyes in the top of the board, one at 
each end, by means of which to hang the rack upon the 
wall. 

In Fig. 111 is shown a rack which may be used either 
for a necktie rack or 

A Towel-rack. Cut the back board out of J-inch stuff, 
laying it out according to the working-drawing (Fig. 118), 
and procure a short brass extension curtain-rod for the 
front. The rod will be furnished with screw-hooks with 
which to fasten it to the board; these should be screwed 
in so the rod will set 1 inch away for a necktie rack or 3 
inches away for a towel-rack. 

Book-racks of three forms have been designed, for they 
are so commonly used upon the library table of the home 
to keep in order the books in immediate use, that yoc 


108 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

will probably wish to make more than one kind. In the 
rack shown in Fig. 112 the base piece is grooved near 
each end for the end pieces to fit in (Fig. 119), while in 
the rack showm in Fig. 113 tenons are cut on the ends 
of the base pieces to fit mortises made in the end pieces, 
and these tenons are held in place by means of pins 
driven into holes bored through them (Fig. 120). The 
latter rack possesses one advantage over the former, and 
that lies in the fact that its pins may be withdrawn at 
any time and its pieces pulled apart and put away in a 
compact form. To prevent splitting, do the cutting of 
the grooves and mortises in the members of the racks 
before trimming off their ends, so there will be as much 
wood as possible outside of the portions cut. (For mak¬ 
ing mortise-and-tenon joints, see page 61.) After the 
racks have been put together and finished, glue strips of 
felt to the bottoms to prevent them from scratching any 
surface upon which they stand. 

An Extension Book-rack is a little more complicated to 
make than the above two, but the work is not difficult. 
The rack shown in Fig. 114 is 16 inches long between 
the ends when pushed together and 28f inches long 
when extended. Figure 121 shows the details for this 
rack. The base is made out of a i-by-4-inch tongued- 
and-grooved board, a piece about 3 feet long being re¬ 
quired, while the end pieces are cut out of i-inch stock. 
The idea of using the tongued-and-grooved board for the 
base is that the tongues and grooves for the slides are 





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^ Fig. 121. —Details of Extension Book-rack shown in Fig. 114. ^ 

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fo. 

2 : .^hinges 

LJ 




THE NAIL IN UNDER SIDE OF BOARD D* STRIKES 

Block'E'and-prevents Rack from opening bevondthat point 

■ : - ‘J.- 

• Section through Center of Rack • 

Figs. 119-121. — Working-drawings for Book-racks. 


109 





















































































no 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


already made, and you will be saved the trouble of cut¬ 
ting them. The tongue on piece A (see plan of base 
pieces, Fig. 121), with the exception of a 2-inch piece, 
is left to slide in the groove in piece D , while the groove 
on piece B is left for the tongue on D to slide in. A 
and B may be ripped from opposite edges of the tongued- 
and-grooved board. Piece C should be cut to the exact 
width of D (without tongue or groove), while strip E 
should be equal in length to the combined widths of A , 
B, and D. After the base pieces and the two end pieces 
have been prepared, nail one end of base pieces A and 
B to the ends of C and the opposite end to the upper 
face of piece E . 

The ends of the rack may be nailed directly to the 
ends of the base pieces, but it is better to hinge them in 
place, as the ends may be folded flat at any time by so 
doing, and the rack packed away in a small space. Buy 
two pairs of f-inch by i-inch brass hinges, and hinge one 
end to piece C and the other end to piece D, notching 
the ends of C and D just enough to receive the hinges. 
The drawings show the locations for the hinges. Strip E 
prevents the ends of A and B from springing apart. To 
prevent the rack from pulling apart lengthwise, drive a 
small nail into the under side of piece D, as shown in the 
sectional drawing, so it will strike against strip E. Glue 
strips of felt to the bottoms of the end pieces and strip E. 

Of the medium-sized pieces of furniture, 

Tabourets and Plant Stands are probably most in de- 


EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


11 T 


mand, for the living-room or library is not complete now¬ 
adays without one or two of these to hold fancy vases, 
jardiniers, fern dishes, and potted plants. There is no 
limit to the number of shapes which could be devised 
for them, but you will probably find the three designs 
shown opposite page iioof varied enough character to 
make the construction of one of each worth while. In 
presenting the working-drawings for the tabourets and 
plant stands, as well as those for the other pieces of 
furniture of an equal or a larger size, 

A List of Material showing the exact finished dimen¬ 
sions of each part of the work, and the number of pieces 
of like size required, has been placed alongside or above 
the details. These lists will help you in figuring up the 
amount of material necessary for each piece of work, but 
they are not in proper shape to take to the mill or lumber 
yard from which to order, for it will be cheaper to com¬ 
bine pieces which can be cut out of boards of stock widths 
and lengths and do the sawing yourself. After deciding 
what articles you wish to construct, it is a very simple 
matter to estimate exactly how much material you will 
require. Of course, enough additional length and width 
over the finished dimension must be allowed on each 
piece for the waste produced in sawing and truing up. 

In preparing the top for 

The Tabouret shown in Fig. 122 (Fig. 126), first plane 
up the piece to the proper dimensions, then mark off 
the triangular pieces which are to be removed from the 


11 2 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


corners and saw them off. If the work has been done 
carefully, the legs will fit the corners exactly right. 
Bevel the edges of the legs, as shown, with a chisel. 
The diagonal leg braces, or stretchers , are- halved at 
their centers (see Halved-joint , page 60). When these 
have been joined together, lay them across the top 
piece in the position indicated by dotted lines on the 
plan, to see that the ends come even with, and at right 
angles to, the corners. Then procure No. 9, round-head, 
blued finishing-screws, if inches long, and screw the 
pieces together as shown (see Screws , page 72). 

After making a tabouret or any other piece of furni¬ 
ture, 

If you find the Legs rest unevenly upon the floor, it is a 
simple matter to correct the fault. Locate the short leg 
and put a chip under it to block it up, then cut a block 
of wood of just the right thickness to slip under this 
short leg, and, with it as a gauge, slide it around the 
four sides of each of the long legs, and scribe a knife 
line across each side on a line with the top of the block. 
It is then a simple matter to finish off the legs to these 
lines. 

The Tabouret shown in Fig. 123 requires a little more 
work than that in Fig. 122, as the panel pieces C (Fig. 
127) are tenoned into the rails A and B, and the ends of 
the rails are tenoned into the legs; but mortising is a 
simple operation once it has been mastered, and the 
mortise-and-tenon is one of the most commonly used 



Fig. 124. 


Fig. 122. 



Fig. 123. 


FiG. 125. 


Figs. 122 and 123. Tabourets. 
Fig. 124. Plant Stand. 

Fig. 125. Footstool. 






















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PLAN,>o»<, TOP 

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List of material 



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16 £ Legs 


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Elevation 

Fig. 126. — Details of Tabouret shown 
in Fig. 122. 




• Elevation • 


Fig. 127. — Details of Tabouret shown 
in Fig. 123. 


1-- 

-20—,- 

---1 

1 


_1 



| LIST OF MAT e Rial 


DIMErrilONS 

PARTS 

1 

'^■ig-A u'fi'n to' 

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2 

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Side Elevation 

Fig. 128. — Details of Plant Stand shown in Fig. 124. 






J—»-4- a t*-f-1^4' *'H 

EndElevation 


113 








































































































HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


114 

joints and one of the strongest of the cabinet-maker’s 
methods of joining together work. The operation of 
mortising and the preparation of the tenons is fully de¬ 
scribed on pages 61-65. The mortises for the ends of 
pieces C need not be more than J inch deep, while \ 
inch is sufficient for the ends of A and B. See descrip¬ 
tion of Bench on page 117 for assembling mortised-and- 
tenoned work. Secure the top piece to the legs by means 
of round-head screws such as are specified for the other 
tabouret. 

The Plant Stand illustrated by Fig. 124 is designed 
more or less along the lines of the much-used mission 
furniture. For the working-drawings see Fig. 128. The 
preparation of the mortises and tenons for the connection 
of the stretcher to the end pieces will be easy, if you have 
carried out the exercises suggested in Chapter III. The 
mortises are slightly imderciit on the outer end to make 
them correspond with the taper on the pins, and are cut 
^ inch inside of the line of the side pieces, as you will 
see by looking at the dimensions on the stretcher, so 
that the pins will drive the end pieces tight against the 
shoulders of the stretcher. 

A Footstool, with a shelf below on which the current 
magazines may be piled, makes a handy piece of furniture 
for a den or library. An attractive design for one along 
simple lines is shown in Fig. 125. The working-draw¬ 
ings for this are shown in Fig. 129. After preparing the 
top, the shelf, and the end pieces, fasten the shelf and 



«*5 


one-half : one-half end j Cross- 

Side elevation I Longitudinal Section- elevationI Section 

Fig. 129.—Details of Footstool shown in Fig. 125. 



























































































HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


116 

ends together by means of the pins, then secure the top 
between the ends with round-head screws. A strip of 
quarter-round (a small molding) should be nailed to the 
upper side of the top along each side edge, as shown in 
the cross-section, for a ground to hold out the sides of 
the upholstering, and a narrow strip should be nailed to 
each end piece ^ inch below the top for a ground to tack 
the upholstering cover to. 

Upholstering Material can be purchased at almost any 
dry-goods store. You will require some hair for filling, 
cheese-cloth or light-weight muslin for covering the hair, 
2-ounce cut tacks for fastening the cloth, leather, imitation 
leather, or heavy denim for the top .covering, and large- 
head tacks covered to match the top material. Perhaps 
you can get some hair from an old pillow or mattress, 
and your mother probably can furnish you with the 
cloth covering. Leather is rather expensive, about $3 a 
yard, while the imitation leather can be purchased for 
about $1.25 a yard (r yard wide), and denim will cost 15 
cents a yard. The imitation leather wears better than real 
leather and is probably the most satisfactory material to 
use. Tacks with large heads, made of a composition to 
match leather or imitation leather, can be bought for 
from 3 to 5 cents a dozen. 

To upholster the top of the Footstool, first lay a piece 
of the cloth over it and tack it to the ground along one 
side and to the grounds along the ends, thus forming a 
pocket in which to stuff the hair. The cloth must be 


EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


IT 7 


loose enough to allow for sufficient packing, but as it will 
stretch considerably it may be pulled fairly tight. Pack 
the hair into the farther side and the two ends, first, and 
use a small stick with which to push it into the right 
places. The work is not difficult, but it must be done 
carefully, and all hollows must be filled out as you go 
along in order to make a nicely shaped top. When the 
near side is filled, stretch the cloth tightly over the hair 
and tack it to the quarter-round ground. With the 
hair held in place by the cloth covering, it is an easy 
matter to put on the leather or other covering. Draw a 
line upon the edges of the wood top to indicate the edge 
of the covering, and inch or inch above this draw 
another line parallel to it upon which to locate the tack 
holes; also draw a guide-line along the top of each end 
ground for the end tack holes. Space the holes upon 
these lines i^- inches from center to center, or as near to 
that as will make all the spaces equal, and punch holes 
for the tacks with a brad-awl which is a trifle smaller than 
they are. Turn in the edge of the covering material all 
around, then fasten it in place with the tacks. 

The Bench in the photograph opposite page 86, Chapter 
V, is a neat-appearing piece of furniture suitable for a 
bedroom or any of the living-rooms. The details for its 
construction are shown in Fig. 130. First, prepare the 
legs and end rails, and mortise and tenon them as shown; 
then, when the pieces have been fitted properly, mark the 
tenons and the mortises with letters in such a way that 



ONE-HALF I ONE-HALF END f CROSS- 

Side-elevation | longitudinal section elevation! Section 

Fig. 130. —Details of Bench shown in Photograph opposite page 86. 












































































EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


119 

you will know just which fits into which, which edge is 
up and which face turns out. Next, cut the mortises in 
the lower rails for the stretcher, then prepare the stretcher 
as in the detail, trim its ends to fit the mortises in the 
rails and mortise them for the pins. The side rails should 
be cut next. Where all the joints consist of a mortise 
and a tenon, as in the case of this bench, each member 
should be fitted and tested as cut; then, when all the 
members have been cut, fit them together and go over 
the whole piece of work, and if any trimming is required, 
mark the locations. Then take the members apart, trim 
where you have found it necessary and sandpaper each 
piece. The beveling of the tops of the legs and ends of 
the stretcher may be left until this stage of the construc¬ 
tion (do this beveling with a chisel). 

Assemble the pieces in the order in which you prepared 
them, and coat the end of each tenon and the inside of 
each mortise with glue before fitting them in place. After 
the glue has had time to set, cut the top piece to fit be¬ 
tween the upper rails and fasten it in place with screws. 
Before boring holes for the screws, locate the places 
where the large tacks are to go so you can avoid them. 
Nail a piece of quarter-round along the top edge of each 
of the upper rails to hold in the edges of the upholster¬ 
ing filling. 

Finish the wood, then upholster the top in the 
manner described for the Footstool ' The covering 
material must be cut very carefully at the corners and 


120 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


be turned in neatly around the legs. Space the tacks 
about i-| inches on centers. 

Magazine-racks made upon the plan of open bookcases, 
but with the shelves spaced closer together, solve the 
problem of keeping magazines within convenient reach, 
and at the same time in shipshape order. A simple 
magazine rack that is easy to build is shown in detail in 
Fig. 131. 

As the ends of this spread out at the bottom, the end 
pieces and the shelves must have their ends cut off on 
the^diagonal. The way to get the proper angle for 
trimming off these ends is to lay the end pieces upon 
the floor on their edges, at the given distances apart, and 
then tack a strip across the edges near the top and 
bottom to hold them;temporarily in that position. Then 
place the finished top piece against the tops of the end 
pieces and you will see just how much trimming they re¬ 
quire. If you have a bevel (Fig. 34, page 26), set it to 
this angle and mark off the ends of each end piece 
accordingly; also mark off the shelf ends. Without 
the bevel the work may be done with a square, but be 
very careful to lay out each end of each piece the 
same, or the pieces will not fit satisfactorily. The 
shelves and top are fastened to the end pieces with 
round-head screws. 

The magazine-rack shown in Fig. 132 has shelves of 
equal length, but the widths vary, as is shown in the 




Fig. 133. 


Wall Book Racks. 


Fig. 134. 



Fig. 135. — A Fireplace Screen 



















































121 


Fig. 131. —Details of Magazine-rack. Fig. 132. —Details of Magazine-rack. 











































































































122 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


cross-section detail. Fasten the shelves to the end 
pieces with round-head screws. 

As a result of the year’s accumulation of new books, 
there is generally a shortage of shelves in the home 
bookcases. To provide for such an emergency, build 
one or more of the attractive 

Wall Racks shown in Figs. 133 and 134. These racks 
are well adapted to the library, living-room, den, hall¬ 
way, and bedroom. Individual book nooks, you might 
call them. Racks for yours schoolbooks, handicraft 
books, and other reference books. 

The smaller rack (Fig. 133) has a shelf 14 inches long 
for books, with a narrow shelf above it for a clock, a 
candlestick, or bric-a-brac. It is built of f-inch stock, 
and finished with enamel. You may find a box 
made of straight boards free from knots and defects 
that you can work up into pieces of the sizes 
required. If you must buy material, get -f-inch 
plywood. 

Figure 136 shows a front elevation and cross section 
of the rack; also a pattern of the end-pieces. Lay out 
the pattern upon a piece of cardboard, following closely 
the given dimensions. When you have drawn the 
straight lines, locate the centers for the curves, with a 
compass, and describe the arcs. Cut the paper pattern 
along the outline. Then mark out around it on the 
marking material. Saw out the two pieces with a 
coping-saw, or other fine-tooth saw, and smooth the 


crsT“or material- 

PIECES 

DIMENSIONS 

PARTS 

2 

3/8" X 7'/2"X 24" 

ENDS 

1 

- X5'/2"X 14“ 

SHELF 

1 

W/^'X" 

« 



I/BEND UP 
U END 

BRASS HANGER 


14 - 


J 


HANGERS 




8 




3- 

T/4 


CROSS SECTION 

Fig. 136. — Details of Wall 
Book Rack shown in 
Fig.133. 


L 

ST OF MATERIA 

L 

PIECES 

DIMENSIONS 

PARTS 

2 

3/4" X 71/4" X 21" 

ENDS 

1 

■ X 5 l /2” X 1 8" 

SHELF 

1 

•• X6'/2"X •• 

•• 



END PATTERN 



END PATTERN 


FRONT 

Fig. 137. — Details of Wall Book Rack shown in Fig. 134. 

123 


CROSS SECTION 













































































































124 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


edges with sandpaper. A half-round wood-rasp (Fig. 33) 
will be handy for trimming up the curves. Lay out 
and cut the two shelves of the given dimensions, and 
round the front edge of each, as shown. 

Use glue and finishing-nails for assembling the rack. 
Mark off the positions for the shelves upon the end- 
pieces, and carry the lines around the edge and outer 
surface of the pieces, to locate the nailing range. Drive 
the nails straight, and set the heads below the surface 
in preparation for puttying. 

When you have assembled the rack, sandpaper all 
surfaces, and putty the nail holes. Then finish with 
two or three coats of enamel or lacquer, rubbing the 
surfaces lightly with sandpaper, between coats to re¬ 
move roughness. Buy a pair of brass hangers at the 
hardware store, bend up the lower ends as shown in 
the detail and screw to the back edge of the upper 
shelf. 

The Larger Wall Rack, shown in Fig. 134 is built of 
f-inch stock. Figure 137 shows a front elevation, cross 
section, and end pattern. 

The end-pieces are easy to lay out and cut, because 
their lines are straight. Saw close to the lines, and be 
careful when cutting the notches not to split or splinter 
the edges. A fine-toothed saw should be used for cutting 
the notches, and a chisel or wood-rasp, or both, for 
trimming them smooth. Use a piece of No. o sandpaper 
wrapped around a square block of wood for a final 


EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


125 


smoothing of edges. It makes a stronger job to groove, 
or dado, the end-pieces to receive the shelf ends. But 
you can substitute butt joints, if you want to. Positions 
for the grooves are given upon the pattern. Cut them 
| inch deep. The way to lay out and cut grooves is 
described and illustrated in Chapter III. 

The length and the widths of the shelves are given 
in Fig. 137. Notice that | inch is allowed on each end 
for letting into the end pieces. With a nice job of 
grooving, the shelves will drive in snugly. Use glue 
and finishing-nails in assembling. 

In the final sanding of surfaces, round all edges 
slightly. When the finish has been applied, attach a 
pair of brass hangers. Let the hangers into the back 
edge of the top shelf. 

The Fireplace Screen in Fig. 135 is just the thing for 
your home living-room. Besides the material listed in 
Fig. 138, you will need 4 lineal feet of 28-inch copper 
or bronze screen-wire for covering the frames, double- 
pointed tacks, two pairs of 2-by-2-inch brass double¬ 
acting hinges, a pair of brass drawer-pulls, finishing-nails, 
brads, heat-resisting cement, and radiator bronze 
powder, varnish, and turpentine. 

You will see by the details that the outer frames are 
alike, and that the center frame is 2J inches higher. 
The only change in dimensions of the two sizes of 
frames is in the length of the side stiles. 

Rip the stiles and rails to the given sizes. Then 


126 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


gauge a line \ inch from the inner edge of one face of 
each piece, to locate the rabbets for the screen-wire 
covering. Notice that while the rabbets run from end 
to end of the rails, they stop ij inches from the top 
of the stiles and 4 inches from the bottom. It is 
no trick to cut the rabbets with a chisel. Read 


3 I« 

4 " 

3f H 

4 


© 


O) 


iu 


RAIL 


-29"- 


DOVYEL 




SIDE FRAME STILE 


t TTt 


k-4- 


1 




LIST OF MATERIAL 

PIECES 

DIMENSIONS 

PARTS 

6 

3/4"x3'/4"x 14" 

RAILS 

2 

.. x |3/4”x3I Zi 

STILES 

4 

•• x •• x29" 

•• 

2 

3/8" x V2"x\0'-Q" 

MOLDING 



DOUBLE ACTING 
HINGE 

A" r-4' 1 ^ 

v* i ■ .! — • 

"* 1 



MOLDING 

FRAME 


ASSEMBLY 


-31 g"- 

CENTER FRAME STILE 


brass'^ 

BOX OR DRAWER PULL> 



Fig. 138. — Details of Fireplace Screen shown in Fig. 135. 


































































































































































































































































































EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


127 


the instructions in Chapter III. Make the depth 
l inch. 

Finishing-nails alone may be used for joining the 
frame corners, but the addition of dowels will make a 
stronger job. Dowel joints are described in Chapter 
III. Ordinary glue will be of little permanent value, 
because of the temperature to which the screen will be 
subjected, but there are heat-resistant liquid cements 
which will serve the purpose. In assembling, make 
certain that corners are right angles. 

Cut the screen-wire to fit in the rabbets. Tack one 
selvage, then pull the opposite edge taut and tack it, 
then the other two edges. When you have tacked the 
wire to the frames, cut the square rabbet molding strips 
of the correct lengths and brad them in place. 

Locate the hinges 4 \ inches from the center frame 
stile ends. Cut away the stile edges enough to let in 
the thickness of a single flap of the hinges. Fasten the 
drawer-pull handles to the center of the top of the end 
frames. 

Remove the hinges and handles before finishing. Set 
nail and brad heads, and sandpaper all surfaces. Also, 
rub down all edges to remove their sharpness. Then 
apply a coat of shellac, and rub down lightly with fine 
sandpaper. For the finish, mix radiator bronze powder 
with varnish, and thin with turpentine to the consistency 
of paint. One coat over the shellac under-coat will be 
sufficient. An antique finish may be produced by 


128 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


stippling the bronze coat with an antique or dark-green 
bronze. 

A Pup Door-stop like that shown in Fig. 139 will guard 
your door and keep it from slamming. It is a gadget 
that will be admired by all who enter your home. De¬ 
tails of the parts and assembly are shown in Figs. 143 
and 144. 




n - 4y— 

r* 


/ 

PLAN 

-GROOVE 

t 

$ 

L-r^ 

3- 

4 1 



EDGE~/ 


Fig. 143. — Details of Pup Door-Stop shown in Fig. 139. 


The front of the kennel and the base block are of 
f-inch stock, the roof is of f-inch stock, and the dog is 
of f-inch stock. Lay out the front and base pieces by 
the given dimensions. Cut the doorway with a jig-saw 
or coping-saw. Bore the four j|-inch ventilation holes 
in the gable in a square pattern. Groove the base-board 
for the kennel front to fit in. Run this groove from 
end to end, and then cut a block to fit in at the doorway 














































Fig. 141. — A Step Stool. 


Fig. 142. — A Smoker's Stand. 



Fig. 139. — A Pup Door-Stop. 


Fig. 140. — A Waste Basket. 







EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


129 


threshold, or cut it only as far as the doorway. Cut 
one roof-board |-inch wider than the other, to allow 
for its overlapping. 

Assemble the kennel with glue and finishing-nails, 
setting the nail heads and puttying the holes. Apply 





130 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


two coats of white enamel to all surfaces. Then paint 
the roof red. 

A full-size pattern for the bull pup is shown in Fig. 
144. Make a tracing of it on transparent paper, and 
reproduce this on a piece of board. Saw on the outline, 
then finish up the edges with a file and smooth with 
sandpaper. 

Finish the pup with two all-over coats of white enamel. 
Then paint the black portions of the head and body with 
black enamel, and indicate the eyes, nostrils, mouth, 
and legs with white and black paint applied with a fine 
brush. Make a collar of a narrow strip of leather, 
enamelled red, and fasten it with a row of round-headed 
brass tacks. The tacks will form studs. Screw a 
small brass screw-eye into the front of the collar for 
a ring. 

Pivot the dog in the position shown with a finishing- 
nail driven through the base of the kennel into a ^-inch 
hole drilled in the pup block. The nail pivot will make 
it possible to swing the pup into any position wanted. 
Screw a brass screw-eye into the front of the kennel, and 
fasten a short length of brass chain to it and to the 
dog’s collar. 

A Waste-Basket like that in Fig. 140 will be liked 
because of its unique lines. Finished in green or red 
enamel, it will give a pleasing touch of color to a living- 
room, library, den, or bedroom. 

The sides and bottom of the waste-basket are made 


EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


131 

of -f-inch plywood. Basswood is excellent for the pur¬ 
pose. If you cannot get plywood, you may substitute 
a hard-surfaced wallboard for the sides. In that case, 
make the bottom of f-inch stuff and reinforce the corners 


L 

ST OF MATERIALS 

PIECES 

DIMENSIONS 

PARTS 

2 

3/8“X||l/4"x|3V*2 J 

SIDES 

2 

- x|2" x - 

M 

1 

- x 8%'x 8 3 /fd 

BOTTOM 

4 

3/4" X 2'/4"x|OV'2 

LESS - 





■^Tenter 

-4aO 


LEG PATTERN 


SIDE PATTERN 




T 

! 



j- 

- I 

/1 -iojE2 



t 




-3/4 

SIDE ELEVATION 



CROSS SECTION 
Fig. 145. — Details of Waste Basket shown in Fig. 140. 


inside, with strips § inch square to give the basket 
rigidity. 

Lay out the side-pieces by the half patterns in Fig. 
145. A sure-fire method of getting a symmetrical job 
is to make a cardboard templet of one-half of the sides, 
then reproduce the templet outlines to the left and to 
the right of center-lines. 











































132 


HANDICRAFT FOR [HANDY BOYS 


When you have ripped out the four sides, and dressed 
their edges, assemble them with glue and finishing-nails. 
Make certain that the corners are square. Then take 
the measurements for the bottom board, from the 
assembled sides, lay out the piece, cut it, and bevel its 
edges to the angle of the sides. Fasten the bottom 
board with glue and finishing-nails, flush with the bottom 
edges of the sides. 

The leg strips have the same pitch as the basket 
sides. A pattern is given in Fig. 145. Cut the pieces 
out of stock f-inch thick. Glue and nail them to the 
center of the sides, with the lower end projecting 1 inch. 

Set all nail-heads, trim off the top edges and corners 
if necessary, putty nail-holes and joints, and sand all 
surfaces. Then finish with an under-coat of shellac and 
one or two coats of enamel. Rub lightly with sand¬ 
paper between coats. 

The Step-Stool shown in Fig. 141 is a little brother to 
the step-ladder. After Mother has used it for a while, 
she will wonder how she ever got along without it. 
Its service will be extended to every room in the house, 
to the garden, and to the clothes-drying yard. It may 
be looked upon as first-aid equipment, since it will dis¬ 
courage standing in chairs, and possibly prevent the 
breaking of bones. 

Details of the step-stool are shown in Fig. 146. A 
10-inch board 6 feet long is sufficient for the job. 
Twelve-inch stuff will make a wider step and seat, 


EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


i33 


but the advantages of a small lightweight stool are 
obvious. 

Starting with the back, scribe a center line along the 
working material, and lay off the height measurements 
along the line. Square lines across the board at these 



Fig. 146.—Details of Step Stool shown in Fig. 141. 
























































134 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


points, and lay off the width measurements upon the 
lines, and draw the outline. Describe the end arcs. 
Draw the side lines of the hand-hole parallel to the 
opposite tapering edges. Use a jig-saw or coping-saw 
for cutting the curves and hand-hole, and true up the 
edges with a wood-rasp, chisel, and plane. Cut a groove 
or dado, | inch deep in the back for the seat to fit in. 

The front leg, seat, and brace have square corners. 
Cut a groove in the under side of the seat for the front 
leg to fit in. 

Assemble the parts with glue and finishing-nails. 

A coat of shellac and another of varnish will make a 
neat and lasting job. But a coat of colored enamel 
over the shellac will be more attractive. 

The Smoker’s Stand in Fig. 142 will be liked for its 
oddity of design, and for its bright two-color finish. 
Build one for the living-room or for Father’s den. It 
is a piece of furniture of few parts, as you will see by 
the detail diagrams in Fig. 147. There is more work 
to the assembly because of the angular parts, but with 
each piece cut correctly by the patterns, you will have 
no difficulty. Since the design suggests an enamel or 
lacquer finish, use basswood, whitewood, pine, or fir for 
the parts. 

You will see by Fig. 147 that the top and base are 
alike, also the triangular brackets. When you have 
cut the upright, plane a |-inch bevel on each end, as 
indicated. 


EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


135 


Begin the assembly by fastening the top and base 
boards to the upright. Scribe a line parallel to and 
1 h inches inside of the edges of the top and base pieces, 
as indicated, to locate the position for the upright. 
Check up to make certain that the top lines up with 
the base. If it does not, trim off the ends of the upright 


ipi* 

^ASSEMBLY} } 
•GUIDE LINE'S! 

L__ L-J 

t 

a> 



r u ^ 


-L*_ A 


-U. 4 

TOP AND BASE 


LIST OF MATERIAL 

PIECES 

DIMENSIONS 

PARTS 

1 

3/4"X8"x 8" 

TOP 

1 

- 

BASE 

1 

- x5'x245/a" 

UPRIGHT 

2 

- x4'/4’x 12" 

BRACKET 

4 

3/8'x |“ XI" 

FEET 




Fig. 147. —Details of Smoker’s Stand shown in Fig. 142. 


until the necessary correction has been made. Set the 
brackets in place, and glue and nail them to the upright, 
top, and base. 

With the assembly completed, the nail-heads set, the 
nail-holes and joints puttied, and all surfaces sand¬ 
papered smooth, apply a coat of shellac. Then sand¬ 
paper lightly, and apply one or two coats of enamel. 
When the enamel has dried, trim the edges with enamel 




















































136 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Plan Of 
OCTagonavCa* 


^0USHING- 


S OP 

separable 
Plug"- 


of a contrasting color. The model in the photograph 
was finished in orange, with the edges trimmed in silver. 
Black or blue trimmings would be equally effective. 

An Electric Lamp with a wooden stand and base is very 
simple to make. Fig¬ 
ure 148 shows an 
attractive desk or 
table lamp, which 
may be fitted with DETArL 
one of the perforated 
brass lamp-shades 
described in Chapter 
XIII. The stand is 
made in four pieces 
(Ay B, C, and D, 

Fig. 148). After cut¬ 
ting these to the di¬ 
mensions given, and 
beveling pieces B 
and C as shown, 
bore a f-inch hole 




SCREWS , I 


Drop-cord 


fO|<D 



She 



4" MOl 6 FOB 
0 Drop-Co«£» 


Socne'T'' 
Binding Scbew-»j 
8Ase-—J 





~'8inDin** 

Screw 


OROP-CORD, 


Details 

OF "KEY 
RECEPTACLE' 


■X 


-V- 

E 1 


mm r : 

C CH|- 

hole 1 

i— 

_ ^ -7 '• 

-J 


Fig. 148.— Details of Electric Lamp. 


through the center of each. As the hole through A will 
be too long for your bit, bore it halfway through from 
each end, being careful to bore perfectly straight so the 
holes will meet at the center. Also bore a hole of the 
same diameter through the center of one side of base 
piece C, as shown, to meet the vertical hole. These 
holes are made for the electric wires to run through. If 



































EASILY MADE FURNITURE 


i37 


you want to save the work of making the long hole, bore 
a hole through cap D } and in the end of upright A to a 
depth of 1 inch. Then bore a hole in one side of A just 
below D to meet this hole. 


/•Dbawino board Top 


x 


I 




-FRONT RAIL 


i'-r—— —. 


I 




! 




ack Rail 


• — 5 - V - 

^Smclp 


• 4 * 


*RONT-ELEVATION' 



NOAN6V 


UlST OF MATERIAL 

PIECES 

1 

Dimensions 

PARTS 

Drawing-board 3i xaz 

TOP 

i- * 

i ’/s' * »W * a'-s 

LEGS 

2 

* - * 2 2 Vi" 

END Rails 

2 

•Vl»*X 3/i’ X 2'*3“ 

7 Apaons 

I 

i Vs'X •’/<' « 2-Ilk" 

FRONT-RAIL 

1 

- A - * 

BACK - 

I 

‘Vi*’* 5 3 /«' X 3>-V 

BACK 

t 1 

- * t>/4‘ * 

JostEZ 


t 


OftAwiArtASOARD F«AMt- 

AT each Corner with a 2-inch kookj, 


V“8ac* 


6 ack-j : 


— — _ 


a--3*— 

(NO -APRON 


V 


- A 


! 


-— 


C«: end-rail 


®aC* Rail- f| 




END APRON 




— u’-f-fr— f—■»#—- 


' ziviMzX. *endraIl 

'IS” » 


mw] 



*15' *-5m£lf V> 

41 JL. 

•Side -elevation* GftOSS^ECtJOfY 

Fig. 149. —Details of Drafting Table shown opposite page 86. 


I. 


'? I 


!? 

I 

I 


11 1 | 

llU 


Wiring the Lamp requires no description. The lamp 
receptacle may be of the type shown in the diagram, 
or a regular lamp receptacle, with key or pull-chain. 
Opposite page 86 is shown a view of 
A Drafting Table the author has used in his home work- 































































138 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


room for a number of years. Probably not many of you 
boys will do enough drafting to require such a table for 
the purpose, but it also makes a splendid desk table, and 
for this reason working details for its construction are 
given in Fig. 149. The legs, aprons, back, rails, and 
lower shelf are screwed together, no mortising entering 
into the table’s construction. A drawing-board was used 
for the table top, and it was fastened in place with hooks 
and screw-eyes, as shown. An excellent top can be 
made of plywood f-inch thick, or two pieces of f-inch 
plywood glued together. Basswood makes the best 
surface for drafting, and it is easy to get in |-inch 
plywood. Another plan is to make a glued-up top, 
and to place a drawing-board upon it when drafting. 

A Tilting Top is a worth-while development in a draft¬ 
ing table. It makes it possible to adjust the drawing 
surface to a plane at right angles to your line of vision. 
Lawrence Brown of Roanoke, Virginia, has made such 
a device. First, he hinged the front edge of the table 
top to the table frame. Then he bought a pair of metal 
storm-sash adjusters, and screwed the hinged ends of 
the rods to the under side of the table top, and the 
adjustment plates to the ends of the table frame. 





CHAPTER VII 


HOME REPAIRS AND 
GADGETS 



Acquire a reputation for being handy, and oppor¬ 
tunities to earn money will not be lacking. Neighbors 
will call upon you when this and that thingumajig 
needs repairs or a home-made gadget is wanted. You 
can win that reputation by servicing at home. For one 
thing, look to 

Leaking Faucets. Sink and tub faucets are usually of 
the Fuller faucet type. Ordinarily, a new Fuller ball is 
all that is needed to stop a leak. Buy it at a hardware 
store. Shut off the water supply. Unscrew the faucet 
at the point indicated in Fig. 150. You will see that 
the Fuller ball projects, as shown in the cross-section. 
Unscrew the small nut on the pin end, and remove the 
metal cap, and the worn ball. Slip a new ball of correct 
size onto the pin with large end out. Replace the cap 
and nut. Then turn the handle lever to an angle of 
45 degrees. This should draw the ball into the valve 
seat. If it does not, turn the nut until such adjustment 
is obtained. 

An old faucet may require a new valve-stem packing, 

139 



































140 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


a new stem or pin (Fig. 150). Buy these at a hardware 
store. 

The compression faucet is of the lavatory type. The 
cross-section shows how the valve stem screws down 
until the end washer fits the seat. Unscrew the packing 
nut, remove the handle and valve stem, unscrew the 
washer screw, and replace the old washer with a new 
one. 



Fig. 150. —With a Handy Boy about the House there is no Excuse for 

Leaking Faucets. 

Door Locks require attention when a key breaks off, 
when a latch or lock-spring breaks, when parts become 
rusty, and when a door is rehung so as to require a 
reversal of the latch. 

To release a lock, remove one knob and draw out the 
spindle (Fig. 151). Remove the two screws from the 
selvage plate, and lift out the lock. A set-screw holds 
the lock cover. A detail shows the lock without its 





























HOME REPAIRS AND GADGETS 


141 


cover. In oiling, apply sewing-machine oil, then rub it 
off dry. 

The latch-plate often requires resetting, to bring 
about an alignment of latch and pocket. Unscrew 
the plate, and cut the door jam in the direction in 
which the plate must be shifted. Make new screw 

k 

0 


Fig. 151. — Door Locks often require Attention. 



Fig. 152. — Electric Appliance Cords are easily repaired. 


holes, and screw the plate in place. Glue a wooden 
chip into the space vacated by the plate. 

Electric Appliance Cords are easily repaired, with parts 
obtained at the electric shop. Trouble usually de¬ 
velops at the plug, or at the attachment piece (Fig. 152), 
as a result of the breaking of wires. If the wires are 
broken, cut them of equal length, scrape bare the new 
ends, and make them fast to the binding posts. 



.niiiiiiiiiM/miiiM 
:scutcheon plate, 







































































142 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


A Pot-cover Rack such as shown in Fig. 153 provides 
the most satisfactory way of keeping these covers, as the 
one desired is always 
within convenient reach 
—which is never the 
case when they are piled 
up on a shelf or in a 
drawer. 

Figure 154 shows the 

pattern for the side 

pieces of the rack. 

Space the slots as 

shown, then cut along 

the side lines of each slot 

with a saw and remove 

the wood with a chisel. Fig - * 53 - — Fot- Fig. 154.—Pattern 
T 111 1 1 cover Rack. for Side Pieces. 

Notch the back edges as 

shown, and cut the two connecting cross-pieces 8 inches 

long to fit in these 
notches. Nail or screw 
the cross-pieces in 
place, and bore a couple 
of holes through the 
upper one so the rack 
may be hung up on 
nails in the pantry. 

The Bottle-rack shown in Fig. 155 is a contrivance 
which your mother will appreciate, as it will hold all 
























HOME REPAIRS AND GADGETS 


i43 


of her bottles of extracts, catsup, Worcestershire sauce, 
olive oil, etc., and prevent one bottle from knocking over 
several others when lifted out from behind them. 

The rack is made out of a piece of board measuring 9 
inches wide and 15 inches long, and the holes for the 
bottles are laid out and cut as shown in Fig. 156. After 
cutting the board and planing it up smooth and true, lay 
off along the edges the measurements given for the cen¬ 
ters of the holes and square lines across the board at 
these points. The centers will be at the intersections 
of the lines. For the two rows of large holes describe 
circles 2\ inches in diameter, and for the row of slots 

describe a circle 1 inch 
" in diameter each side of 
j the vertical center-lines 
with a center § inch 
? away from the lines, as 
I shown. 

j* Cutting Large Holes. 

4 * Unless you have an ex¬ 
pansive-bit (Fig. 24, 

(Showing the four steps in cutting holes larger than page 2 I) , which Can 
your largest auger-bit will bore, and in cutting slots.) - . 

be set to the proper 
radius, you will have to bore a number of small holes in¬ 
side of the large circles and then finish the cutting with 
a chisel. In the first row of holes on the diagram (Fig. 
156), A shows the first step—describing the circle; B the 
second step—boring a ring of holes inside of the circle; 


t f - 2 § ~* 


D 

c 

T> 

A 

^ r 

A 

r 

^ C 

^ c 

9 k 

^ r 

J 

V 

t H 

J N 

, jG 


j l 

J 

1- 


Fig. 156. — Plan of Bottle-rack. 


























144 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


C the third step—splitting out the wood between the 
holes; and D the fourth step—trimming up the hole to 
the circle with a chisel. The diagram also shows the 
four steps required to cut the slots. E shows the centers 
marked off each side of the center lines, F the two 
i-inch holes bored at these centers, G how the wood be¬ 
tween the holes is split out, and H how the slot is finally 
trimmed up. Nail a cleat to the under side of each 
end of the board. 




Fig. 159. 


Fig. 157. — Partitions Bring Order to the Hosiery Drawer. 
Fig. 158. — Make the Partitions Removable. 

Fig. 159. — Halve the Crossing Partitions in this Way. 


Drawer Partitions bring order to the dresser hosiery 
drawer, table-silver drawer, and pantry-cabinet drawers. 
Figure 157 shows a drawer with six compartments. 
The partitions are made removable (Fig. 158). Make 
them of grocery-box boards or plywood -f inch thick. 
Figure 159 shows how to join the crossing pieces with 
halved joints. Make the joints as instructed on page 
60. Round off the top edges of the partitions.^ Fasten 
with brads and glue. Finish to match the inside of 
the drawer. 








HOME REPAIRS AND GADGETS 


i45 


Weather Strips are easy to attach. There are many 
kinds. Figure 160 shows how to apply the wooden 
strip with felt inlay type. You will need a coping-saw, 
tack hammer and f-inch brads for the job. Notice by 
the diagram that the lower window sash is stripped upon 
the inside, the upper sash upon the outside, with the 



Fig. 160. Fig. 162. 

Fig. 160. — You can do a Good Job of Weather-Stripping Doors and Windows. 
Figs. 161 and 162. — There is no better Safety Lock than a Hinge, for Double- 

Hung Windows. 

strips placed so that the felt makes close contact with 
the sash. Metal weatherstrips are not difficult to put 
on. Printed directions can be had at a hardware store. 

Hinge Safety Locks cannot be improved upon for 
double-hung windows (Figs. 161 and 162). Screw one 
flap to the upper window sash at a point that will permit 














































146 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


raising the lower sash, yet not high enough to admit an 
intruder. When the free flap is turned at right angles 
(Fig. 161), the lower sash cannot be raised beyond that 
point. When it is folded (Fig. 162) either sash may be 
opened. 



Fig. 163. — A Bell Transformer is easily installed. 



Fig. 164. — Scrub- Fig. 165. — Bottom 

pail Platform. View of Platform. 


A Bell Transformer ends battery cell replacements. If 
the house electric wiring is exposed, mount the trans¬ 
former close to two wires. Switch off the current, 
scrape an inch of each wire bare of insulation, bare the 
transformer wire ends, and twist them tightly around 
the bared circuit wires. Solder the connections and 
tape with rubber and friction tape. If the wiring is in 




























HOME REPAIRS AND GADGETS 


147 


conduit, tap an outlet box or fuse box. Figure 163 
shows the hook-up. 

Other Bell Installations may be needed in your home—a 
bell for the side door, one in the garage, and a buzzer 
between the dining-room and kitchen. You can do 
the work. 

A Scrub-pail Platform on casters is convenient when 
scrubbing and mopping floors. Figures 164 and 165 

Fig. 168. Fig. 167. 



Fig. 167. — Section showing Slotted End Piece. 

Fig. 168. — Broom-handle Roller showing Pivot in End. 

show the platform. Use a square piece of f-inch board 
for the base, and pieces of 1 by 2 for rim strips. Screw 
swivel casters to the base at the corners. 

A Towel-roller like that in Fig. 166 requires a back 
board 3f inches wide and 21 inches long, with its face 
edges bevelled and a pair of holes drilled for attachment 
screws; also, a pair of bracket blocks f inch thick and 
2J inches square, (Fig. 167), with one end rounded, 















148 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


and a piece of broom-handle roller 18 inches long 
(Fig. 168). Drive a large nail into a hole drilled in the 
center of each end of the roller, and file off the head, 
for pivots. Cut a slot in each bracket from the upper 



Fig. 169. — Ice-pick and Ice-chisel 
Rack. 


edge down to the center, for the roller pivots, or screw 
a pair of window-shade brackets to the inside of the 
bracket blocks. 

A Utility Rack like that shown in Fig. 169 is handy for 
ice-pick, ice-chisel, screw-driver and other kitchen tools. 






























CHAPTER VIII 
A BOY’S ROOM IN AN ATTIC 



The attic of the average house presents the best pos¬ 
sible conditions for fitting up a boy’s room, for generally it 
is a large unfinished space where a boy will have an 
excellent opportunity to partition off as large a room as 
he may require, and furnish it to suit his own taste with 
home-made furniture and all of his knickknack keepsakes. 
Usually an attic is the storage place for old trunks, anti¬ 
quated furniture, and household truck, and this could very 
easily be packed together in such a way that a large 
enough space for a room would remain at one end. 
Figures 170 and 171 show how a room can be made in the 
attic of a house having a gable roof, but as one attic dif¬ 
fers from another just as the house differs from another 
in plan and design, the suggestions will have to be modi¬ 
fied to suit the conditions of your attic. Take a run up 
to the top of your house, boys, and look things over ; then 
you can tell better just what you can do. 

A Dividing Partition to separate the room from the rest 
of the attic should be built, first, and Fig. 172 shows the 
proper method of erecting the studs . If the attic walls 

149 









































Fig. 170. — A Boy’s Room in an Attic. 























































































































































I 5 I 


Fig. i 7 i . — Opposite End of the Attic Room. 




























































































































































































HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


5 5 2 


are unfinished and of frame construction, as shown in 
Fig. 170, it will look best to space the partition studs 
directly opposite the wall studs and nail the boarding 
on the outside face (Fig. 171); but they may be spaced 
3 feet apart, to save lumber, and yet be close enough to 
support the boards. 



Fig. 172. 

Fig. 172. — Studding for Dividing Partition. 

Fig. 173. — Toe-nail the End of the Studs in this Way. 

Fig. 174. — View of Outside of Entrance Door. 

Fig. 175. — Plan showing Construction of Door Opening. 

If you run the partition in the same direction as the 
roof rafters, locate it so the upper end of the studs may 
be spiked to the rafters (Fig. 172); if the other way, nail 







































































































A BOY’S ROOM IN AN ATTIC 


iS 3 


a strip across the bottoms of the rafters to spike your 
studs to. The illustrations show the partition running 
in the direction of the rafters, so I shall tell you how to 
erect it in this way. To get the studs in a line, run 

A Plumb-line from a nail driven into the face of one 
of the two rafters, i inch or so above the floor, to a nail 
driven into the face of the opposite rafter, as in Fig. 172. 
Spike a 2-by-4 plate to the floor with one edge even 
with the plumb-line. Stand the studs upon the plate 
and toe-nail them in place. If you haven’t a spirit-level, 
plumb the studs with 

A Plumb-board. This consists of a 4-inch board 5 or 6 
feet long whose edges have been planed up straight and 
true, with a “V” notch cut in the center of one end and 
a cord with a weight attached tied to a nail driven into 
the center of the opposite end. By placing this board 
against the side of a stud, you can tell whether or not it 
is plumb by the position of the cord, which will hang ex¬ 
actly in the center of the notch when the stud is plumb. 
(This home-made plumb-board is illustrated on page 13 
of “ The Boy Craftsman.”) 

If you locate the door in the center of the partition, 
first set the two jamb studs 3 feet apart (Fig. 172) and 
toe-nail them to the plate and to the rafters (Fig. 173), 
then spike a cross-piece between these studs, 6 feet 9 
inches above the floor, to form the head of the door, and 
fasten another horizontal piece about 20 inches above it 
for the head of the transom . Next, spike the end studs 


T 54 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


in position, and nail on the temporary diagonal braces 
shown in the illustration to keep the studding plumb until 
the boarding has been nailed on. Space the intermediate 
studs at the proper distances apart, and, as soon as each 
piece is made plumb, tack the brace to it to hold it in 
position until you spike the ends in place. 

It is not necessary to have new lumber for this parti¬ 
tion. Boards and studs can usually be bought very 
cheaply wherever a frame building is being wrecked, and 
this second-hand stuff and box boards will do very well, for 
any roughness can be concealed. Studs may be spliced 
with fish-plates when too short (see Fished-splice , on 
page 58). 

If the Roof runs down to the Floor along the sides of 
the room, a partition should be built along each side at a 
point where the roof is 3 feet above the floor, so the space 
behind these partitions may be utilized for 

Lockers, an addition to a boy’s room which cannot very 
well be dispensed with. These partitions are made as 
shown in Figs. 176 and 177. Short studs are fitted be¬ 
tween the floor plate and rafters at every other rafter, a 
1-by-2-inch strip is nailed across the studding near the 
top, the studs being notched so the strips will set flush 
with their face, as shown in Fig. 177, and then burlap, 
denim, or dark-colored muslin is tacked to these strips, 
and to the floor plates. The strips and covering should 
be carried around the other two walls of the room, also, 
to form a similar 


A BOY’S ROOM IN AN ATTIC 


155 


Wainscoting. When the cloth has been tacked on, 
nail a 6-inch board around the bottom and another board 
of the same width around the top, and cut a board to fit 
between the rafters to form a shelf or cap over the wain¬ 
scoting (Fig. 177). 



Fig. 176. — How the Wainscoting is put up. 

Fig. 177. — Cross-section of Completed Wainscoting. 


A Large Clothes Closet should be built in one corner of 
the room as shown in Figs. 171 and 178, and the inside 
should be fitted up with shelves, hooks, and coat and 
trousers hangers. A piece of broom-handle or curtain- 
pole may be fastened across the rafters upon which to 
hook coat hangers, hooks may be made out of spools 
(Fig. 179), and the 

Trousers Hangers (Fig. 180) consist of two pieces of 
wood about 8 inches long, with one face of each beveled 
(A and B ) Fig. 180), and a wooden button (C, Fig. 180). 


























































HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


156 



Screw block B to the under side of a shelf, place block A 
parallel to it so the bevels will be about inch apart, and 

screw one end to the 
shelf; then screw but¬ 
ton C in the proper 
position so when 
the ends of a pair of 
trousers are placed 
between the beveled 
sides of A and B , 
it can be turned 
against strip A as a 
lock to hold the two 
strips together. 

The Doors should 
be made of boards 
battened together as 
shown in Figs. 171 and 178. To make a nicely finished 
entrance to the room, conceal the studding around the 
doorway with jamb and head boards, and nail a board trim 
around the opening as shown in Figs. 171 and 174. In the 
plan of the door jamb (Fig. 175), the stud on one side of the 
opening is shown at A , the finished jamb board at B, and 
the inside and outside casings or trim at C; the door is 
shown hinged in place at D , and the stop strip shown at E 
is nailed around the inside of the opening for the door to 
strike against. Hinge the entrance door and the locker 
doors on to the casings with strap-hinges (Fig. 171). 


Fig. 178. 

Fig. 178. — Clothes Closet, with Wall broken to 
show Inside. 

Fig. 179. — Spool Hooks. 

Fig. 180. — Details of Trousers Hangers. 





























































A BOY’S ROOM IN AN ATTIC 157 

The Entrance-door Transom is made of boards battened 
together (Fig. 171) and is hinged at the top to the trim. 
It is operated by means of a cord which is run from a 
screw-eye in the bottom of the transom up over a small pul¬ 
ley in the ceiling, and from that down to a nail in the wall. 
Figure 181 shows the details for 

An Old-fashioned Cabin Latch which will do very well 
for the doors. By looking at Fig. 171, you will see that 
the latch A (Fig. 181) is 
screwed at one end to the 
door, th e guard B is screwed 
in place over A , and the 
catch C is set into the jamb 
board. The entrance door 

should have a latch-string 

with which to open it from FlG - 18 1 * Details of Door Latch, 

Guard, Catch, and Button. 

the outside (rigs. 174 and 

181) and also a wooden button ( D , Fig. 181) with which 
to lock it on the inside. Make a handle for the outside 
of the door similar to guard B (Figs. 174 and 181). 

Few attics have provision for heating. Generally, the 
house heater isn’t large enough to carry the load. But 
An Oil Heater or Stove will make your room comfortable. 
If a chimney is available, run the vent pipe or smoke 
pipe into it. If not, get a tinner to make a stack of 
heavy galvanized iron, with hooded top, of a length that 
will extend through the roof to a point 6 inches or more 
above the roof peak. 









158 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


If there isn’t any running water in the attic, make 

A Wash-stand in a corner, as shown in Fig. 171, to 
hold a wash-bowl and pitcher. Fasten 

A Broom-handle Towel-rack above the wash-stand. 

Get a common barn lantern for 

Lighting your Room. Use it as an oil lamp, or wire it 
for electricity. Construct 

A Home-made Hanging Lamp out of it as shown in Fig. 
170. Besides the lantern, you will need a harness snap, 
a screw-pulley, a -f-inch screw-eye, some clothes-line and 


iantcan MARNts* Ska* Screw-PvuAY 6 A ten Count crbaaamci 

Fig. 182.—These things are required for the Adjustable Lamp Fixture. 

cord and a brick (Fig. 182), and if you wire it for elec¬ 
tricity, you will need a socket, plug, and drop-cord . Screw 
the pulley into the ceiling in about the center of the 
room, then run the clothes-line over the pulley and 
down the face of a rafter; screw the screw-eye into the 
rafter just above the wainscot cap (Figs. 176 and 177), 
slip the clothes-line through this eye and then run it 
through a hole bored through the wainscot cap, just 
below, and tie the brick to the end with cord for a 
counterbalance (Fig. 177); fasten the harness snap to 
the other end of the clothes-line and adjust it so that 
the lantern, whose handle is snapped into it, will pull 
















A BOY’S ROOM IN AN ATTIC 


i59 


down to within easy reach of the floor. The weight of 
the brick must be just enough to counterbalance the 
lantern; if too heavy, break off a piece. Figure 170 
shows the lamp pushed up out of the way. 

Every one of you will have to suit your own taste in 
Furnishing the Room, so the illustrations will serve 
merely as suggestions for the arrangement of pictures, 
pennants, fencing foils, tennis rackets, relics, and other 
things. 

Home-made Picture-frames can be made out of laths 
very easily; butt the ends of the laths together instead 
of mitering them and stain the wood in the rough instead 
of planning it off smooth. 

The Furniture may be very simple, like the box furni¬ 
ture shown in the following chapter, or some of the 
designs shown in Chapter VI may be carried out if you 
wish to spend more time and labor upon it. 

You will probably wish to make 
A Pirate Chest such as is shown in Fig. 171 and 
A Window Seat as shown in Fig. 170. Ask your 
mother to make a few sofa pillows for the seat. 
j^Your attic room will be warmer in winter and cooler 
in summer if you will line the walls and ceiling with 
Insulation Material. There are many kinds of material 
on the market, including the popular fiber-boards known 
as wallboard. The cost is less than that of lath and plaster. 
Suggestions for finishing an attic room with wallboard are 
given in Chapter III of “Big Book of Boys’ Hobbies.” 






CHAPTER IX 


BOX AND BARREL 
FURNITURE 


Grocery boxes, packing-cases, crates, barrels, kegs, 
and much of the “ truck ” to be found in the attic, base¬ 
ment, and wood shed suggest innumerable possibilities 
for making things, and the fact that these materials can 
be utilized for many purposes with little or no expense 
makes them especially well suited to boys’ work. 

Furniture made from the above materials is naturally 
somewhat rough, compared with what can be produced 
with better wood, and some of it will appear clumsy, but 
no boy will object to this “home-made” appearance on 
furniture for his own room, if it will serve his purpose — 
in fact, he will generally prefer something like this in 
order that his room may be “ different ” from the other 
rooms of the house. 

The following pages show a number of pieces of fur¬ 
niture which are easy to make, and other ideas will prob¬ 
ably suggest themselves while you are working upon 
these. 

The Writing-desk shown in Fig. 183 is fitted around 
the wall studding, which would be exposed in your room 





































A DESK, STOOL, AND CHAIR FOR YOUR ROOM 161 


if it were in the unfinished attic of a frame house; but 
it also may be fastened upon a plastered wall by support¬ 
ing it upon brackets nailed to the wall, or by hanging it 
with chains from hooks screwed into the wall. 

Procure a box about 30 inches long, 14 inches wide, 
and 16 inches deep for the body of the desk. The top 




Fig. 184. —Section through Writing-desk. 

Fig. 185. — A Desk or Cupboard Mortise-lock and Escutcheon for Key-hole. 
Figs. 186-187. — How to set the Lock into the Drop-leaf of the Desk. 

Fig. 188. — Cigar Box for Desk Drawers. 


of this will form the front of the desk, and then the 
bottom will be the back, but in case the desk is fitted 
around the studs, the bottom boards should be removed, 






































































162 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


as a back will be unnecessary. Figure 184 shows a good 
shape for bracket supports for the desk; after nailing 
these in place at the proper height, fasten the box to 
their tops. Make the drop-leaf for the front of the desk 
out of 1-inch boards and batten them together with four 
strips (A y Fig. 183). Cut the two end battens a little 
shorter than the width of the leaf, but make the two 
center ones long enough to project about 10 inches, as 
in Fig. 184, so they will strike the bottom of the box and 
prevent the leaf from dropping further when opened to 
the position shown by the dotted lines. Hinge the leaf 
in place as shown in Fig. 183. If you want a lock for 
the desk, go to a hardware store and buy a desk or 
cupboard mortise-lock (Fig. 185); this will cost 15 cents. 
Cut a mortise in the edge of the leaf of the proper size 
to receive the lock (Fig. 186), locate and cut the keyhole , 
and then screw the lock in place and fasten the escutcheon 
(Fig. 185) over the keyhole. A slot must be cut in the 
lower face of the desk top for a pocket for the lock bolt to 
turn into, and in order to make it possible to cut this 
pocket, the front board of the top must be removed and 
a board about 1 inch wider nailed on in its place; this 
will make a projection over the drop-leaf as shown in 
Fig. 187. 

Very thin wood should be used with which to parti¬ 
tion off the pigeon-holes , and pieces of cigar boxes will do 
nicely. Make the drawer openings of the right size so 
cigar boxes may be used for drawers (Figs. 183, 184, and 


A DESK, STOOL, AND CHAIR FOR YOUR ROOM 163 


188), and drive brass rug tacks into the ends of the boxes 
for knobs. 

To give the drop-leaf a better writing surface, pad it 
with a few sheets of newspaper and then cover the paper 
with a piece of white oil-cloth. Figure 183 shows how a 
foot-rest may be fastened to the wall, below the desk. 

A Shelf for Books may be bracketed to the wall 10 or 
12 inches above the desk as shown in Fig. 183. 

It is generally an easy matter to find a broken 
chair, and you ought to be able to get a discarded 
piano-stool in your storeroom, from some neighbor, or 
at a second-hand store, as they are being replaced by 
the more modern 
piano bench, and hav¬ 
ing procured these 
two articles, you can 
make 

An Office Chair such 
as is shown in Fig. 

189. Remove the 
chair legs, then set 
the seat and back 
upon the stool (Fig. 

190) and screw it to 
the top; countersink 
the screw-heads, fill 
in over the heads are ? astened upon a Piano . stool t0 form the 
with putty, refinish office chair. 



Fig. 189. — The 
Office Chair. 













































164 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


the chair to match the stool, and the office chair will 
be completed. 

Procure a fish keg for 

A Waste-basket, wash it out thoroughly, and paint it 
inside and outside. One of these kegs which has been 
used by the author for this purpose for a number of years 
is shown in the photograph opposite page 86. 

The Arm Rocker shown in Fig. 191 is easy to construct. 
The seat is made out of a box with the cover boards 

nailed on, and the back and arm 
strips are cut out of pieces of boxes 
or other boards. If you can find 
a pair of rockers from a broken 
chair, use them and you will be 
that much ahead; if not, it is a 
simple matter to make a pair by 
laying a chair on its side upon a 
board, marking out around the 
rocker, then moving the chair over 
far enough to mark out the second 
rocker, and sawing out the pieces 
and smoothing them up. 

Figure 192 shows how the braces A should be nailed 
to the bottom of the box, and Fig. 193 how their ends 
should be cut to fit over the rockers. By looking at any 
rocking-chair you will see that the rear ends of the rock¬ 
ers are set several inches closer together than the front 
ends; provide for this in preparing strips A y and be care- 





















































A DESK, STOOL, AND CHAIR FOR YOUR ROOM 165 

ful to set both rockers the same distance in, so the chair 
will rock evenly. Screw the rockers to strips A. 

The arm rocker back should be constructed in one 
piece as shown in Fig. 194, and nailed to the box as in 
Fig. 192. Strips B are 2 J inches wide by 2 feet 9 inches 



Fig. 192. Fig. 193. Fig. 194. 

Fig. 192. —Chair overturned to show how the Rockers are Attached. 

Fig. 193. —Brace for the Rockers. 

Fig. 194. —How the Back is Constructed. 

Fig. 195. — Pattern for the Wide Arm. 

long, strips C 2 1 inches wide by 21 inches long, and 
strips D i\ inches wide by 2 feet long. After the back 
has been made and fastened to the box, cut the two side 
strips E (Fig. 192) ij inches wide by 20 inches long, 
strips F to the same width by 10 inches long, and strips 
G to the same width by 16 inches long. Cut right arm 
H 18 inches long by 3 inches wide at the narrow end 
and 8 inches at the wide end, and cut the left arm of the 
same length by 3 inches wide. Brace the right arm with 
the small triangular block / (Fig. 192). 






































— 



! 1 

.. 


CHAPTER X 

HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM 
APPARATUS FOR A 
BOY’S ROOM 



It is not necessary to go to the basement or attic to 
fit up a home gymnasium, boys, unless you wish to make 
large pieces of apparatus, for you can easily equip your 
own room with a rowing-machine, chest-weight , chinning - 
bar, hitch-and-kick , dumb-bells and Indian clubs . 

You will get a lot of fun and exercise out of 

A Rowing-machine like that shown in Fig. 196. So 
will other members of the family. You can slide the 
machine under a bed out of the way when it is not in 
use. Metal glides on the bottom of the frame prevent 
its marring the floor. 

As you will see by the detail drawings, the seat rolls 
forward and backward. It is pulled forward by the 
rower, and it is drawn backward by springs. In these 
movements, muscles of the arms, shoulders, back, trunk, 
thighs and legs are given a thorough workout. 

The rowing-machine requires three 5-foot pieces of 
2-by-4, two for side-rails and one for the end-plate, 
seat-blocks and foot-rest blocks, a 10-inch board 5 feet 
long for the seat and foot-rest, a section of a rug pole 

166 






































HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 


167 


or curtain pole 18 inches long for a handle-bar, a pair 
of roller-skates for rollers, four screen-door springs, 
a window-sash pulley, 5 feet of sash-cord, a ring¬ 
bolt, metal glides, screw-hooks, bolts, lag-screws and 
nails. 



Fig. 196. — The Home-made Rowing-machine in Action. 


The plan (Fig. 197) and the cross-section (Fig. 198) 
show the completed assembly. After cutting the side- 
rails and end-plate, bolt the plate to the rear ends of 
the rails. Countersink the bolt nuts on the under side 
of the frame (Fig. 199). Next, cut the 2-by-4 foot-rest 
blocks of the given length (Fig. 200) with their ends 
slanted at an angle of 45 degrees. Fasten these to the 
front ends of the side-rails with lag-screws (Figs. 199 




i68 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

and 201). Then cut the two foot-rest boards of the 
length shown, and screw one to the upper edges of the 
blocks, the other to the front ends. Reenforce the 
foot-rest by nailing a cleat to each end of the pitched 
board, as shown in the detail. Cut a mortise in the 




IT 




2" x 4" Rail 

°<D 

n 


■Footrest 





-£o 

-O' 


/ 

O' 

* 

- handle-bar 

i —• -r-f 

Rollings 

/ 

ytUun u man iitHiiitttti Hutu 

fDoor springs* 


18“ 


( Pu//ey 

■ k C 


; 

-Sash-cord y 

• Seat * 

u—| 

J - J 


1 


L 


Jp Sere w-hooks^ 

Sot tti/iinaiiiii tii/nf/tittfwi/r<* 








-cgs 

2 "x4“ Rail 

x 0 




1 




oCO 


.- . J 


Fig. 197. — Plan of the Rowing-machine. 



Handle-bar 


Sash-pul/ey 

Sash-corc/ 


f $eat 2 „ x4 . B lock 


2 ." x 4" 


f Screen-door springs 
4 Bolts - 
skate . .- 


hook- 



hooks*. 

-X 


_5*-o M — 


■Metal glides 


Fig. 198. — Cross-section of the Rowing-machine. 


center of the foot-rest for a sash-pulley (Fig. 202) to 
fit in, and drive the pulley into the mortise. 

Figures 203 and 204 are details of the rolling-seat. 
Cut the seat board and 2-by-4 blocks of the sizes indi¬ 
cated, and nail the board to the blocks. Two blocks 
are set on edge to slide along the inner face of the side 
rails, for guides. Bolt the roller-skates to the seat 
board outside of the guide-blocks. To complete the 













































HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 


169 


seat, screw four screw-hooks into the back of the blocks, 
and one into the front of the center block. 

To hook up the rolling-seat, slip four screen-door 
springs over the hooks in the back of the blocks, and 



^-Ring bolt 
Fig. 205. 



Fig. 199. — Side-rail, End-plate, and Foot-rest Block. 
Fig. 200. — Pattern for Block. 

Fig. 201. — Detail of Foot-rest. 

Fig. 202. — Sash-pulley. 

Figs. 203 and 204. — Details of Rolling Seat. 

Fig. 205. — Detail of Handle-Bar. 


over hooks screwed into the end-plate in line with the 
seat-hooks (Fig. 197). Fasten the sash-cord to the 
front seat-hook, and run it over to and through the 
pulley. Make a handle-bar of a section of rug pole 


























HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


170 


18 inches long with a ring-bolt fastened to the center 
(Fig. 205), and join the sash-cord to the ring. To 
determine the length of the sash-cord, seat yourself 
upon the rolling-seat, bend forward and extend your 
arms. The handle-bar should be within your grasp 
when you are in that position. 

With the rowing-machine assembled, take it down 
for finishing. Remove the seat, cord, and springs. 
Sandpaper all surfaces, and round all edges and corners 
with a plane. Then shellac, rub down again with fine 
sandpaper, and apply a coat or two of varnish, lacquer, 
or enamel. Drive metal glides into the under face of 
the side-rails, at the ends and center. 

A Chest-weight, or “exercising machine,” as some boys 
call it, is shown in Fig. 206, and Figs. 207, 208, and 209 

give the details for making 
it. Select a portion of a 



wall in your room where it 
will be most convenient to 

Fig. 207. — Screw the Cross-piece of use the weights, and if the 
Chest-weight to Wall Studs like this. ,, . r . 

wall is frame, — that is, 
made of wood and plaster,—locate two of the studs 
(Fig. 207). Tap upon the plaster with a hammer until 
you find a portion that sounds solid, make a mark there, 
then measure 16 inches to the left or right of it, and the 
chances are you will find the second stud at that point, as 
studding is generally placed 16 inches from center to cen¬ 
ter. If the wall is brick, locate two of the vertical strips to 



























































HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 


17i 


which the laths are nailed. For cross-piece A (Figs. 207 
and 208) cut a i-inch piece of oak, pine, or white wood, 4 
inches wide and 20 inches long, plane it up and bevel its 



Two-pulley Scheme. Fig. 208. One-pulley Scheme. 

Fig. 208.— Two Schemes for Assembling the Weights, Rope, and Pulleys of 
Chest-weight. 

Fig. 209. — Prepare a Pair of Bicycle Handle-bar Grips like this for Handles. 


four face edges. Locate holes a , b, c, and d, 2 inches 
from the ends, and bore them \ inch deep with a f-inch 
bit. Spike the board to the wall about on a line with 
your shoulders, using 20-penny nails and driving them 
through holes a , b , c , and d into the studs. Drive 
the heads below the surface of the wood with a nail-set, 













































































HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


172 

and fill holes b and d with chips of wood cut to fit over 
the spike heads (holes a and c will be concealed by strip 
B as is shown in Fig. 208). Cut cross-piece i? 19 inches 
long by 1 \ inches wide, bevel its edges, and screw it to 
board A with round-head finishing-screws (Fig. 208). 

Procure two bricks of uniform size for weights, make 
a wooden bracket for each as shown in Fig. 208, and 
strap them to these brackets with a couple of skate, trunk, 
or shawl straps. Drive staples into the backs of the 
brackets at /, k , /, and m (Fig. 208), placing/ and k 
1 inch to each side of the center and / and m directly 
under them. 

Purchase two enameled-iron awning pulleys at a hard¬ 
ware store, also get about 25 feet of sash-cord , or closely 
woven clothes-line, for lifting-lines and guide-ropes. 
Fasten the pulleys to cross-piece B with staples, 1^- inches 
from the ends. The guide-ropes are fastered to screws 
e and f in board A and to g and h in the baseboard. 
These screws should be placed 2 inches apart, and 
should center on the pulleys on strip B. In attach 
ing the ropes, first fasten them to screws e and f then 
slip their lower ends through staples j and /, and k 
and m, in the weight brackets, and tie them to screws g 
and h. You can make either a one-pulley scheme for 
lifting your weights as shown on the right of Fig. 208, or 
a two-pulley scheme as shown on the left of the illustra¬ 
tion. The latter way has the advantage of a longer rope, 
but costs a little more on account of the extra rope and 


HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 


i73 


pulleys. In the first method the rope is attached to the 
bracket strap, then run through the pulley and tied to 
the handle, while in the latter it is tied to screw i on 
board A , run through a pulley, slipped over the bracket 
strap, and then slipped through the upper pulley and tied 
to the handle. 

The handles are made from bicycle handle-bar grips, 
which, if you haven’t an old pair, may be purchased for 
10 or 15 cents. Glue a wooden plug in the open end of 
the grip (Fig. 209), then bore a hole through the center 
of it and punch another hole through the center of the 
tin cap on the other end of the grip. Run an 18-inch 
piece of heavy wire through the holes and bend it into 
the shape shown in the illustrations, with a hook through 
which to tie the lifting rope. Leave the bricks in their 
natural color, or stain them with oil paint, and either stain 
or varnish the woodwork if it is of oak, or paint, stain, 
or shellac it if it is of pine or whitewood. 

A Striking-bag with an elastic cord at each end can 
easily be fastened in a doorway by screwing a screw-eye 
in the head and another in the threshold, to which to tie 
the cords. The upper screw-eye may be left in place and 
the lower one removed when you detach the bag. But 
for a bag with a single cord it is necessary to have a plat¬ 
form for it to strike against. You can put up 

A Striking-bag Platform in your room by making it 
detachable, as shown in Fig. 210, so that it may be re¬ 
moved and put out of the way when not in use. 


1 74 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Make the platform 3 feet square, battening together 
the boards with strips A , B, and C (Fig. 211), and 
screw hooks D and E into strip B. Cover the under 
side of this platform with oilcloth to make the sur¬ 
face smooth, first tacking several thicknesses of paper 
over the boards if there happens to be any uneven places. 

To the inside of your room door screw the piece of 
2-by-4 F (Fig. 212), 2 inches above your head, then 



Fig. 211. Fig. 213. 

Fig. 211. — How to make the Striking-bag Platform. 

Fig. 212. — Attachment of Strips to form Groove for Platform; also Turn- 
buckles. 

Fig. 213. — Block out the Strips thus if the Door has Raised Panels. 

Fig. 214. — Details of the Swivel which holds the Bag Cord. 

leave a space wide enough for end A of the platform to 
fit in, and screw strip G to the door. If the door has 
raised panels (Fig. 210), block out strips F and G as 
shown in Fig. 213. Purchase two buck-saw turnbuckles 
at a hardware store, and fasten one end of each to the 
door trim with staples, at H and I (Fig. 212) ; put them 
just high enough so the lower ends will catch in hooks 
D and E (Fig. 211) when the platform is slipped between 







































































HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 


1 75 


F and G. The platform is made solid by turning the 
turnbuckles. The swivel shown in Fig. 214 costs about 
50 cents. The plate J is fastened to the under side of 
the platform with screws, the bag cord is slipped through 
K and knotted, and K is screwed on to J. 

A Chinning-bar is very easily put up in a doorway 
(Fig. 215). A piece of a curtain-pole will do for the bar, 
and the socket-blocks for it to set 
in should be made as shown in 
Fig. 216. Cut the blocks 4 inches 
square and make the holes a little 
larger than the ends of the curtain- 
pole. Figure 217 shows how to 
cut the holes by first boring a ring 



of little holes and then cutting out 


Fig. 216. 

Fig. 216. — Socket-blocks for 
the Chinning-bar. 

- How to cut a 


Large Hole. 


the center and trimming up with 
a chisel. Make the hole in block fig. 217 
B like that in A , then saw a piece 
out of the top. Screw the blocks to the door jambs 
about 3 inches below the door head. 

The Hitch-and-Kick (Fig. 218) is a piece of apparatus 
that will give you a chance to limber up your leg muscles 
by practicing the high kick. The plate (Fig. 219) may 
be an old pot cover or a cake-tin , with three holes punched 
at A , 3 , and C. Attach brass chains at these holes, join 
them at D , and at this point connect the end of a piece 
of chain 12 or 14 feet long. Fasten a small screw-pulley 
or a screw-eye in the ceiling (Fig. 218), slip the chain 






























176 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


through it, and bring the 
end down through a screw- 
eye and then to a hook 
which has been screwed 
into the door or window 
trim . You may have a 
long stick, graduated into 
feet and inches, with which 
to measure the heights of 
your kicks; or you may tie 
a short piece of thread 
through one of the links of 
the chain, within a foot or 
so of the loose end, and 
then lay off some measure¬ 
ments upon the door or 
window trim, in lead-pencil, 
in such a way that you can 
easily determine the height 

Fig. 218. —The Hitch-and-Kick will . 

give you a Good Chance to Limber ^>f the plate by noting the po- 

up your Leg Muscles. sition of the threaded link. 

With the addition of a pair of 
dumb-bells , a pair of Indian clubs , and 
a wand made by splicing together two 
broom-handles, as shown at A , B , and C 
(Fig. 220), you will have a fairly well- Fig. 219 —How to 

equipped “ gym,” without sacrificing any ^Td Kick^la^e^ou" 
floor space of your room for apparatus. of an Old Pot Cover. 


















HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 


i77 


A 







crr ~.—.. 

. .— - 



c 



Fig. 220. — A Wand made of Two Broom-handles spliced together 

End to End. 


A Rack for your Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and Wand 

may be made like the one illustrated by Fig. 221. 
Board A is the same size 
as board A of the Chest- 
weight (Fig. 207) and is 
spiked to the studs in the 
same way, while board B 
is 2 inches shorter and 
2\ inches wide. Make the 
places for the bells , clubs , 
and wand to set in as shown 
in Fig. 222, cutting them 
as described for the Chin- 
ning-bar socket B (Fig. Fig. 222. 

216). Screw strip A to 
strip B. the Sockets. 

Other ideas for home-made gymnasium apparatus will 
be found in Chapter XLVIII of “Big Book of Boys’ 
Hobbies.” These include a trapeze , flying-rings , a 
horizontal-bar, parallel-bars , a tumbling-mat , and a strik¬ 
ing-bag platform . 



Fig. 221. 

Rack for Dumb-bells, 
Indian Clubs, and 
Wand. 




























































CHAPTER XI 


CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 



Make your Christmas gifts, boys ; your own handi¬ 
craft will be better appreciated by your brothers and 
sisters, the older folks, and the friends and relatives you 
wish to remember than anything you can buy, and as 
the materials may be such as will cost little or nothing, 
you can save the greater part of the money you usually 
spend in Christmas shopping. Besides, by showing your 
work to friends it should be easy to secure orders for 
duplicate articles. 

Probably no material presents as many possibilities 
for making inexpensive and at the same time attractive 
articles as the white cedar wood from cigar boxes. You 
boys very likely know what handy receptacles these 
boxes are for stamps, coins, marbles, and the hundred 
and one other things which your pockets will not hold, 
but here are some ideas for making use of the boxes 
which you probably never thought of. 

The Material will cost you nothing, — except the nails, 
glue, and finish, — as empty cigar boxes may be procured 
at any cigar store or drug store. Pick out a good assort- 

178 













































CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 


179 


ment of shapes and sizes, place the boxes in a tub 01 
wash-boiler of hot water and allow them to soak until 
the paper labels and bindings loosen, then, when this 
paper has been removed, bind the covers flat against the 
bottoms with cord to prevent them from warping, and 
put them in the sun or near a stove to dry. When the 
boxes are thoroughly dry, pry them apart, sort out the 
best pieces and remove the manufacturers’ trade-marks 
with sandpaper (grade No. o). 

Brads § inch or J inch long should be used for nail¬ 
ing, and the heads should be set below the surface of the 
wood and the holes filled with putty colored to match 
the wood. 

Finish the work with two coats of boiled linseed-oil. 
The oil gives the wood a beautiful rich tone and brings 
out the markings of the grain. 

A scroll-saw, bracket-saw, coping-saw, or a very sharp 
jack-knife should be used where 

Cutting is necessary. Do not attempt to split the 
wood, as the grain is seldom straight, but lay it down 
upon a board and score it with a knife in the way in 
which you would score a piece of cardboard; then break 
it along the scored line, or continue cutting until the 
piece is cut in two. If you use a saw, cut a little away 
from the outlines of the work and then trim up with 
a knife and sandpaper. 

The wagons, Jack-in-the-box, and doll furniture shown 
in this chapter were designed with the idea of saving as 


i8o 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


c 


Seat- 


i 


I 






7Z2L 


Aiaa Axu. 


much cutting as possible, and you will see by the illus¬ 
trations that in many cases the boxes are not altered. 

The Express-wagon shown in Fig. 223 is made out of 
a long flat box. Cut down the sides at the front and 
construct a seat on top of the sides as shown in Fig. 
227. Cut the front wheels about 2 \ inches in diameter 
and the rear wheels about 2§ inches in diameter. You 
can mark out the wheels with cups or glass tumblers. 

Small bottle corks glued to the 
wheel centers will make good 
hubs. Cut the wooden axles 
as shown in Fig. 227, making 
the front axle—for the smaller 
wheels—deeper than the rear 
one, then fasten them to the 
wagon and nail the wheels to 
their ends. Drive a tack into 
the front of the wagon-box and tie a cord to it, or if 
you have a small toy horse to hitch to the wagon, fasten 
a pair of shafts to the under side of the box as is shown 
upon the two-wheeled cart. 

The Cart in Fig. 224 is made out of a square flat box 
with its wheels fastened to the center of the under side. 
Make the wheels about 2! inches in diameter. 

The Light Auto Truck (Figs. 225 and 226) requires two 
boxes about 8| inches long, 5 inches wide, and 2\ inches 
deep. You will see by looking at the illustrations that 
one box is inverted upon the other. Before fasten- 


CeNTCR-tiNC'-* 


Fig. 227. — Cross-section of the 
Express-wagon. 


















CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 181 

ing them together, remove the two ends of the upper 
box and the rear end of the lower box (leaving the front 
end for the dashboard ), and cut 2 inches off the sides at 
the front and an additional piece 1 inch by if inches 
from the sides of the upper box for windows. Fasten 
the boxes together by nailing strips to the ends of 
side pieces. Nail a narrow strip across the top of the 
rear end of the body and hinge a drop end-gate to the 
body-end with cloth strips. Support the end-gate with 
a cloth strap. Tack a curtain of black cloth to the top 
cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the curtain, so 
that it may be fastened up in a roll, as shown in the 
photograph. Make the wheels and axles like those of 
the express wagon, but cut the front and rear wheels, 
also the two axles, of equal size. Cut out a small steer¬ 
ing-wheel and fasten it on a short wooden rod inside of 
the dashboard. Make a seat and seat back, nail the back 
to the seat, and then fasten the seat between the sides of 
the body just below the windows. 

A Jack-in-the-box (Fig. 228) is a simpler toy to make 
than you might imagine. The box should measure about 
5f inches by 5f inches by 5 inches. Hinge the cover to 
the top with two pieces of heavy cloth ; glue one piece to 
the inside of the cover and box, and the other to the out¬ 
side. Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover, 
and below it fasten a small hook onto the box; the hook 
may be bent from a short piece of wire. 

A spiral spring from an old bed-spring will do for Jack’s 


182 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


body, but if you cannot get one of these, it is a simple 
matter to make a spring. Take a piece of No. 12 gauge 
wire about 10 feet in length and wind it around a roll¬ 
ing-pin or anything that is cylindrical and about 2\ inches 
in diameter. Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed 
tacks upon a piece of wood cut to fit the inside of the 
box (Fig. 229), then procure a small doll’s head, baste a 
circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring and 
to this sew the head. Make a cloth fool’s cap to glue 
on Jack’s head, covering his hair entirely, and also a 
loose jacket to fit over his spiral body; for these use any 
bright-colored cotton cloth that will fall into folds easily. 

Tack the base of the spring to 
the bottom of the box. 

Make the seat for 
The Round-seated Chair shown in 
Fig. 230 2 inches in diameter, the 
back 5 inches high, 2 inches wide 
at the top, and ij inches wide at 
the seat; cut the front leg 2^ inches 
high by i\ inches wide. 

The Round Center-table (Fig. 231) 
should have a base built up of 
four strips as shown in Fig. 235. 
Cut the circular top 5 inches in diameter. A saucer 
may be used with which to mark this out. 

Select a long flat box for 

The Dining-table shown in Fig. 232, and after making 



Leg of Din¬ 
ing-table. 


Pedestal of 
Center-table. 








CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 183 

four built-up legs as shown in Fig. 236 fasten them into 
the four corners of the box. 

In making the little 

Square-seated Chair (Fig. 233), cut the seat about 2 
inches wide by 2\ inches deep, the front legs 2|- inches 
high by -| inch wide, and the back legs 4J inches high 
by J- inch wide. Brace the legs and back with cross¬ 
pieces, and you will have a very firm and artistic dining¬ 
room chair. 

Select a box about 9 inches by 5 inches by 2\ inches 
in size for making 

The Doll’s Cradle shown in Fig. 234. Cut the two 
rockers by the pattern in Fig. 237 and fasten them to 
the bottom of the box 1 inch 
from the ends. Use the rim 
of a breakfast plate in draw¬ 
ing the arc of the rockers. 

The Key-board shown in 
Fig. 238 is one of the sim¬ 
plest gifts that can be made. 

Follow the dimensions given 
upon the pattern (Fig. 243) 
in laying out the board. 

Where two sides of a piece 
correspond, first draw a cen¬ 
ter-line, then lay out one 
side, trace it off upon a piece 
of tissue paper, turn the 



Fig. 237. — Pattern for Cradle 
Rockers. 



Fig. 243. —Pattern for Key-board, 

















184 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


paper over and reproduce it upon the other side of the 
center-line. By doing this in laying out all your work 
you will have no trouble in getting the sides alike. 
Bore gimlet holes A and B before cutting out the 
key board, then there will be little danger of splitting 
the wood. Space the brass hooks as shown in the 
photograph. 

The Corner Clock-shelf (Fig. 239) is built up of sev¬ 
eral pieces of wood, the shelf (Fig. 244) consisting of 



Fig. 244. — Shelf of Corner Clock-shelf. 

Fig. 245.— Bracket of Corner Clock-shelf. 

Fig. 246. — Pattern of Shelf Pieces. 

Fig. 247. — Pattern of Bracket Pieces. 

pieces A and B , and the bracket (Fig. 245) of C, D , 
and E . Figure 246 shows the pattern for A and B. 
After cutting these pieces trim i inch off of the front 
edge of B (see dotted line, Fig. 246). Cover the lower 
face of A and the upper face of B with glue, then place 
them together with the side edges flush and the front 













Fig. 223. 


223. An Express-Wagon. 

224. A Cart. 



Fig. 

Fig. 









Figs. 


225 AND 226. 


Fig. 226. 


Two Views of an “ Auto Deli very-W agon.’ 


Fig. 225. 


rV 














Fig. 228 . 

A Jack-in-the-Box. 
















Fig. 229. —The Skeleton of 
the Jack—in—the— Box. 


Fig. 233.—A Square-Seated Chair 
















A Key-Board. Fig. 239. A Corner Clock-Shelf. 

A Whisk-Broom Holder. Fig. 241. A Kitchen Match-Box. 
A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box. 





Fig. 238. 
Fig. 240. 
Fig. 242. 


















CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 


185 

edge of A projecting over that of B. Cut the three 
bracket pieces as shown in Fig. 247, then cut ^ inch off 
of the long or front edge of C and E (see dotted line, 
Fig. 247) so that when they are nailed together the edge 
of D will project beyond C and E as shown in Fig. 245. 
The shelf and bracket should be placed under a heavy 
weight until the glue has set. The photograph shows 
how to hang the shelf in the corner by means of brads 
and screw-eyes, the brads being driven into the under 
side of the shelf and the eyes screwed into the wall for 
them to stick through. 

A Whisk-broom Holder such as is shown in Fig. 240 is 
a gift which any one will appreciate for his or her room. 
Make the back and front pieces 
similar to A and B (Fig. 

248) and cut the side pieces 
4^g- inches high by 1^ inches 
wide. Place the side pieces 
between the front and back in 
putting the holder together. 

A large match-box is a very 
handy article for the kitchen, 
where the supply of matches 
generally disappears so rapidly 
that an ordinary size of box requires refilling every day 
or so, and 

The Kitchen Match-box shown in Fig. 241 will be ap¬ 
preciated by your mother, because the large receptacle in 



Fig. 248. — Patterns for Whisk- 
broom Holder. 














i86 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


the lower portion will hold a full box of matches. The 
upper part of the box is intended for burnt matches. 

Figure 249 shows the patterns for the different pieces. 
A is the back, B the ends, C the front of the upper re- 



Fig. 249. —Patterns for Kitchen Match-box. 


ceptacle, and D the front of the lower receptacle. Be¬ 
sides these pieces you will need a piece 1^ inches wide 
by the length of C for the bottom of the upper receptacle 
and a piece 2\ inches wide by the length of D for the 
bottom of the lower one. The photograph will show you 
how to put the pieces together. After the box has been 
completed and given its oil finish, glue a strip of No. o 
sandpaper to the bottom of the lower receptacle. 

A gift suitable for the relative or friend who smokes a 
pipe is 

The Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box shown in Fig. 
242. The little cottages are made out of cigar-box wood, 
but the back and bottom pieces (Fig. 250) are cut out of 
thicker material; -|-inch pine, whitewood, or basswood 
will do. Figure 251 shows the dimensions for the cot- 
















CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 


187 


tages and the method of putting them together. As the 
end cottages are match-boxes, cut an opening in the outer 
side of their roofs as in Fig. 251. Use glue and §-inch 



t-T-i t r f 

i 11 


3 * 


iSL 


n_ 


U- 


CENTER 



IT i r — 

1 — y- 


Bottom Piec» 


~'0~— 

4 

“fN 

r£ 


1-1 I- 


•24" 


K-f'-H 

ii 

1 

IHi 

immmt 

"i* 

[□ 

1 



— : r".. 

fHOLE->f 

VI/ ” " VI/ . VI/ 

T 1 1 

H 5 e ' * 3 4 

- 4 — 3f-4— 3f—+— 5f —*j 

-23"- M 


Fig. 252. 


Fig. 250. 


Fig. 250. — Patterns for Back and Bottom Pieces of Cottage Pipe-rack and 
Match-box. 

Fig. 251. — Details of Cottages. 

Fig. 252. — Patterns for Paper Doors and Windows. 


brads in fastening the pieces, also cloth strips for attach¬ 
ing the roof. 

Give the cottages two coats of linseed-oil, then paint 
the top and edges of the roofs red (Venetian red) and 
the under side white. With a rule and pencil lay out 
the doors and windows upon a piece of white letter- 
paper, then draw the lines in ink, paint the shutters green 
and the glass black (use water-colors ), and mark off the 
divisions in the glass with white; then cut these out and 
glue them on to the cottages as shown in the photo¬ 
graph. 

After the back and bottom pieces have been cut and 

































HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


188 

the holes have been bored in the bottom piece (Fig. 250), 
rub them down with sandpaper and nail the back to the 
edge of the bottom piece. Give the back piece two coats 
of white lead and chrome-yellow (mixed to form a pretty 
cream color) and the bottom piece two coats of olive- 
green. Glue the cottages in place, spacing them as 
shown in the photograph, then cut out the little chim¬ 
neys to fit the roofs, paint them red with white caps 
(Venetian red and white lead), and glue them in place. 
Cut the trees out of a piece of cigar-box wood, paint them 
green, and fasten them to the back piece with brads. 
Screw two screw-eyes into the top edge of the back piece 
and glue a strip of sandpaper below each end cottage on 
which to strike matches. 

Two, three, and four cottage pipe-racks may be made 
by changing the proportions of the back and bottom 
pieces, and 

A Cottage Match-box, made by attaching a single cot¬ 
tage to a back piece similar to A , Fig. 249, will be a 
pretty gift. The cottage may be divided through the 
center for good and burnt matches, in which case an 
opening must be cut in each side of the roof. 

Among the many 

Other Gifts which may be made out of cigar boxes are 
a letter opener , a hall letter-rack , a cube-shaped box for 
string , a tooth-brush rack , a glove box , and a handker¬ 
chief box . Use your ingenuity and work out your own 
designs for these. 



■- 



CHAPTER XII 
CLOCKWORK TOYS 


The toys shown opposite page 190 are a few of the 
many mechanical toys which can be operated by clock 
work, and they are easy to make, too, requiring no more 
mechanical ability than is possessed by the average boy 
old enough to handle the simplest of tools. 

Generally it is easy to find an old clock somewhere 
about the house, and a clock which has been discarded 
simply because it has become worthless as a timekeeper 
is perfectly good for operating these toys, provided the 
mainspring is in working order. It is not necessary to 
have a set of works for each toy, for they are so quickly 
fastened in place that but a minute is required to trans¬ 
fer the works from one toy to another. 

Before commencing work upon the toys, get together 
The Other Necessary Materials. These will consist of 
cigar boxes, cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads, 
and a few pieces from the woodpile, with one or two ad¬ 
ditional articles which are mentioned later on. Brads 
f inch and 1 inch in length should be purchased for 
fastening the framework of the toys together, and the 

189 

















































HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


190 

cigar boxes should be about 8 inches by 4 inches by 
2 inches in size. Remove the paper from the boxes 
as described in the preceding chapter. 

To prepare the Clockwork for use, remove it from its 
case, detach the hands and face, and pry off the small 
wheel pivoted directly under the hands; this wheel is 
shown at A in Fig. 257. Remove also th e balance-wheel 



Fig. 257. — How the Clockwork Motor is fastened to the Cigar-box Cover. 
(This Box has been cut down to the Proper Length for the Ferris Wheel.) 

B (Fig. 257) and the lever C pivoted next to it, to in 
crease the speed of the remaining wheels. 

Fasten the clockwork motor for 

The Merry-go-round shown in Fig. 253 to the cover of 
































CLOCKWORK TOYS 


191 


a cigar box, as illustrated in Figs. 254 and 257, boring 
holes through the cover with a gimlet for the pivot ends 
on the back of the works to set into. Remove the lower 
flange from a spool (D, Fig. 257) and fasten the spool 
on to the central pivot of the clockwork in the position 
formerly occupied by wheel A. The hole in the spool 
will be too large for the pivot and must be filled up with 
sealing-wax. To do this, hold a piece of sealing-wax 
above the spool and melt it with a lighted match, allow¬ 
ing it to drip into the hole until the latter is about half 
full, then press the wax down with the end of a match 
until it is compact, smooth it off on the bottom of the 
spool, and make a dent in it with a pencil to indicate the 
exact center of the hole. Heat the end of the pivot with 
a lighted match, and press it into the dent in the wax, 
being careful in doing so to get the spool straight upon 
the pivot. Cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar 
box belonging to the cover to which you have attached 
the works, for spool D to project through (Fig. 257). 

To make the Standard for the merry-go-round, cut four 
strips of wood 8 inches long, and fasten one to each 
corner of the cigar box, turning the bottom side of the 
box up; then cut a piece of J-inch board 10 inches 
square, locate its center F by drawing diagonal lines 
from corner to corner as shown in Fig. 258, bore a i-inch 
hole through it at this point for spool D (Fig. 254), and 
then nail the box to the center of the board as shown in 
Fig. 258. 


192 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


The Tent should be laid out upon heavy white paper 
as shown in Fig. 259. After describing a circle with a 
radius of 9 inches, describe 
another circle within it 



Fig. 258* —Plan of Top of Stand¬ 
ard for Merry-go-round. 


Fig. 259. — Pattern for Tent of Merry- 
go-round. 



with a radius of 7J inches, this inner circle (shown by 
dotted lines in the diagram) being drawn for a guide in 
fastening the tent upon its tent-poles. Cut out the tent 

along the outer circle, and from 
it cut a triangular piece about 
the size of that included be- 

Fig. 260. — The Tent ready to be tween lines KL and ALL in 
fastened upon a Tent-pole. th e diagram. Cover the under 

edge of KL and the upper edge of ML with glue, lap 
KL over to about NL, and rub down the edges with 
a cloth to make as neat a joint between the pieces as 
possible (Fig. 260). Bore a hole through each corner of 
the standard top (G, H , /, and /, Fig. 258), then cut four 














Fig. 255. A Ferris Wheel. 


L 

Fig. 253. A Merry-Go-Round. 


Fig. 254. A Clockwork Motor. 


Fig. 256. A Flying Airship, 









































. 















































CLOCKWORK TOYS 


T 93 


sticks 7 inches long, sandpaper them until smooth, and 
glue them into these holes for 

The Tent-poles. When the tent has dried, tack it to 
the ends of the poles, being careful to make it set evenly 
upon them; cut a scalloped border out of red or blue 
paper and paste it to the edge all around as shown in 
Fig. 253, and stick a small flag in the peak. 

The Horses. A full-size pattern for these is shown in 
Fig. 261. Take a piece of tracing-paper or any thin 



transparent paper, and place it over the pattern and 
make an exact copy; then rub a soft lead-pencil ovei 
the other side of the paper, turn the paper over with the 









194 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


blackened side down, and transfer the drawing six times 
upon a piece of light-weight cardboard. Paint the horses 
with water-colors, using the pattern as a guide for shading 
and marking them, then cut them out with a sharp knife 
or a pair of scissors. 

Figure 262 shows the pattern for 

The Sleighs. Draw this out upon a piece of card¬ 
board, cut it out and fold along the dotted lines, then turn 



T— w —1 



Fig. 262. — Pattern for the Merry-go-round Sleighs. 


in the flaps and glue them to the dashboard and to the 
back. Cut two seats by the pattern given, bend down 
the flaps and glue them to the sides of the sleigh, and 
make the back for the front seat like that on the back 
seat (Fig. 263). Then make another sleigh similar to 
the one just completed, for two are required for the merry- 
go-round. Paint the sleighs green or yellow with trim¬ 
mings of a lighter shade. 








































CLOCKWORK TOYS 


i 95 


Figure 254 shows 

The Shafts upon which the horses and sleighs are 
mounted. Cut them 5-I- inches long, whittle them round 
and rub them down with sandpaper. The shafts are 
fastened in a spool hub which 
has five holes bored in it (E, 

Fig. 254); bore the holes with 
a gimlet or small drill, marking 
them off first with a pencil to 
be sure of getting them spaced 
at equal distances. Point the Fig. 263.— a Completed Sleigh 
ends of the shafts and glue them showing Attachment t0 shaft - 
into the holes in the hub, then connect this spool to spool 
D with a piece of a lead-pencil 2 inches long (Fig. 254). 

To fasten the horses to the shafts, punch a hole 
through three of them at X (Fig. 261) and slip each one 
over a shaft, then tack the other three horses to the ends 
of these shafts at the point X, To fasten the sleighs to 
the remaining shafts, glue one end of a piece of paper to 
the back of the front seat and the other end around the 
shaft (Fig. 263). 

The Girl Riders for the sleighs are shown full size in 
Fig. 264, and 

The Boy Riders for the horses are shown full size in 
Fig. 265. Make tracings from the patterns as you made 
that of the horse and prepare four girls and six boys. 
Paint their clothes in bright colors. Cut a second leg 
for each boy rider, so he can be made to sit astride of his 


















196 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


horse, and glue the leg to his hip as shown in Fig. 266. 
Cut a slit in each seat of the sleigh and stick the flaps on 
the girl riders in them. 

For the Platform shown directly under the horses and 
sleighs in Fig. 253, cut a piece of cardboard 11 inches in 



Fig. 264. — Full-size Pattern for the 
Girl Riders. 


Fig. 265. Fig. 266 


Fig. 266. — How 
the Second Leg 
of the Boy is At¬ 
tached. 


Fig. 265. — Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders. 

diameter; if you choose to make the Ferris wheel before 
the merry-go-round, you may use the center pieces re¬ 
moved in cutting out the 11ms, as noted in Fig. 271. 
Punch a hole through the center of this disk large enough 
for the peg connecting spools D and E to slip through. 
This platform rests upon the top of spool D and revolves 
with it. 






CLOCKWORK TOYS 


*9 7 


To operate the Merry-go-round. The key by which 
the mainspring is wound up is shown screwed in place 
on the under side of the cigar-box cover in Fig. 257. 
While winding the mainspring, it will be necessary to 
have some means of checking it so it will not unwind at 
the same time, and the best scheme for a check is to 
bore a small gimlet hole through the cover of the cigar 
box and stick a match through this and run it between 
the spokes of one of the clock wheels so as to prevent 
it from turning. Then when you have wound up the 
spring and are ready to start the merry-go-round, all you 
have to do is to pull out the match. 

The model of this toy which the author has before 
him runs for five minutes with one winding, and any boy 
can make one which will run as well if he follows the 
directions given and uses a reasonable amount of care¬ 
fulness in the work. 

Other Animals than horses may be used if you wish to 
follow the arrangement of some of the latest merry-go- 
rounds, and pictures of these may be found among the 
colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores, or if you 
can draw well, you may copy them from books and 
magazines. Great fun may be had by changing the 
positions of the boy riders, making them ride backward 
part of the time and sometimes two and three boys on a 
horse. 

Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel, 
and a good many of you have ridden in the smaller 


198 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


wheels patterned after it, at the amusement parks, so 
you will be interested in making 

A Miniature Ferris Wheel like the one shown in Fig. 

255 * 

The Standard for supporting the wheel (Fig. 267) 
consists of two triangular supports, one with a spool 

hub fastened to its top for 
the axle of the wheel to run 
through and the other with 
the cigar box inclosing the 
clockwork fastened to it. 
Figures 268, 269, and 270 
show the construction of 
these supports. Cut strips 
P and Q 12 inches long 
and R 10 inches long, and 
trim off the upper ends of 
Fig. 267. — Standard for the Ferris P and Q , SO when they are 
Whee1, nailed together, the lower 

ends will be 8 inches apart; nail strip R to the lower 
ends of P and Q (Fig. 268). To fasten the spool hub 
to its support, smear one side of a piece of tape with 
glue and wind it several times around the spool (Fig. 
269), then set the spool on top of the support and press 
the ends of the tape against the sides of strips P and Q 
(Fig. 270). 

The Clockwork Motor for the Ferris wheel is fastened 
to the cover of a cigar box just as that for the merry- 







CLOCKWORK TOYS 


199 



go-round was fastened (Fig. 257), but the length of the 
box is cut down as much as the clockwork will allow to 
make the box as square and compact as possible. 

It is very necessary to 
have the axle bearings 
exactly on a line in order 
to have the wheel run 
smoothly, so, in fastening 
the cigar box to its sup¬ 
port, be sure that the cen¬ 
ter of the hole in spool D 
(Fig. 257) is on a level 
with the spool hub on the 
opposite support. Nail Fig. 268. 

the Supports to a IO-inch Fig. 268. — Make Two Supports like 
by 12-inch board, 8 inches this for the Ferris wheel Standard * 

Figs. 269 and 270. — How a Spool is 
apart, and fasten a cigar fastened to the Top of the Support 

box between them for for a Hub - 

The Station Platform (Fig. 267). 

To make the Wheel, first lay out the rims upon a piece 
of heavy cardboard, using the radii shown in Fig. 271 
for describing the circles, then lay the sheet of cardboard 
upon a board and 

Cut out the Rims with a sharp knife, being careful not 
to run off of the pencil line. The 

Hubs of the wheel are spools with six holes bored in 
them for the spokes to fit in (Fig. 274). Cut six 

Spokes 5|- inches long by J inch thick for each hub 




JOO 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


and cut a slot in one end of each for the cardboard rims 
to fit in (Figs. 272 and 275). Use a saw rather than a 




Fig. 271. —How to lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel. 
Fig. 272. —The Spokes fitted into the Spool Hub. 

Fig. 273. — The Rim slipped into the End of the Spokes. 


knife in making the slots, for it will make a kerf of just 
the right width to receive the cardboard and will not 
be so apt to split the ends of the slender spokes. 

Whittle the hub ends of 
the spokes to fit the holes 
in the spool hubs (Figs. 
272 and 275). In 

Putting together the 

Fig. 274. — a Fig. 275. —How the spokes, Hubs, and Rims of 
Spool Hub for Spokes, Rims, and 

the Wheel. Axles are fastened the wheel, first Stick three 

Together. spokes in a hub and slip a 

rim into the slots in their ends, then stick the remaining 
spokes into the hub, one at a time, and spread the rim 
enough so it can be slipped into their slots (Fig. 273). 
When the hubs, rims, and spokes have been assembled, 











CLOCKWORK TOYS 


201 


lay them aside and get some heavy wrapping-paper or 
thin cardboard out of which 

To make the Cars. The pattern for the cars is shown 
in Fig. 276, and on it you will find all the dimensions 



necessary for laying it out to the proper size. It will be 
understood that the unfigured portions of the drawing 
are the same as those with dimensions marked upon 
them. The dotted lines at the door and window open- 




















































































202 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


ings indicate where the cutting is to be done, while all 
other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard is to be 
scored and folded. Use a ruler in making the drawing 
of the car to get the lines straight, and when you have 
finished it, go over it carefully and compare it with the 
illustration to be sure it is correct, after which make a 
careful tracing of it, turn it over and transfer the draw¬ 
ing five times upon cardboard. These and your original 
drawing will give you the required number of cars. 
Cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do 
the rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors ; punch 
a J-inch hole in each end of each car with a lead-pencil 
(Fig. 276), being careful to get the holes exactly opposite. 

In folding and glu¬ 


ing the cars, slip 

the flaps inside and 

bend the roofs so 

they will follow the 

curve of the ends 
Fig. 277. — A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel, /-rp* \ 

(^rig. 277 J* 

When the cars have been completed, cut six sticks 5 
inches long, whittle them down until they are about \ inch 
in diameter, and sandpaper them until they are perfectly 
round and smooth. These sticks connect the rims of 
the wheel and form 



The Axles from which the cars are hung (Fig. 277). 
Great care must be used in fastening them between the 
rims, for they are easily split, and the best way to do is 






















































CLOCKWORK TOYS 


203 


to start a hole first in the ends of each axle with an 
awl, or by driving a brad part way in and then with¬ 
drawing it; then drive a brad through each spoke of 
one rim into an axle (Fig. 275); slip the other ends of 
the axles through the holes in the ends of the cars (Fig. 
277), and nail the spokes of the other rim to them. 

To mount the Wheel upon its standard, whittle an axle 
8-| inches long to fit the hubs, then hold the wheel be¬ 
tween the two uprights, with the hubs on a line with the 
spool bearings and run the axle through the holes (Fig. 

255)- 

Build Steps at each end of the platform out of heavy 
writing-paper or light cardboard. Fold the paper or 
cardboard back and forth, making pleats about J inch 
wide, for the steps, and after gluing it in place, cut out 
the balustrades and glue them to the edges of the steps. 
Make the top step low enough so there will be about 
l-inch clearance between it and the bottom of the cars 
(Fig. 255). 

After you have made a final inspection to see that 
everything has been put together properly, your toy will 
be ready for operation, and I am sure that when you set 
the clockwork machinery in motion, and the little wheel 
begins to revolve slowly with each little car balancing 
upon its axle, you will agree that you have constructed 
a very interesting toy. 

The “ Flying Airships ” is a riding device consisting of 
a number of cars suspended by steel cables from large 


204 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


arms pivoted to the top of a tower. When the machim 
ery is started, the arms begin to revolve slowly, and the 
motion produced causes the cars to swing out away from 
the center. As the speed of the arms increases, the cars 
swing out farther and farther, until when the highest 
speed has been reached the cables by which the cars are 
suspended have taken an oblique position and raised the 
cars some distance above the ground; then the speed of 
the engine is gradually diminished, and the cars finally 
regain their former position. This piece of apparatus is 
also known as an aerostat. 

You will find the miniature flying airships (Fig. 256) 
easy to construct after making a merry-go-round or 
Ferris wheel, as many of its details are identical with 
those of the other toys. 

The Standard for the toy is made similar to the one for 
the merry-go-round (Fig. 253), except that the top board 
is omitted and a circular piece of cardboard of the size 
of the disks removed in cutting out the rims of the 
Ferris wheel is substituted in its place. Cut a hole 
through the exact center of the piece large enough so it 
will fit over spool D (Fig. 254). 

Cut a Mast about 14 inches long and of the diameter 
of the hole in the spool and stick it into spool D ; then 
3 inches below the top of the mast fasten a spool with 
four horizontal arms 6 inches long glued into holes 
bored in it. Fasten a cross-piece \\ inches long to the 
end of each arm with brads, and from these suspend 


CLOCKWORK TOYS 


205 


Cars made similar to those of the Ferris wheel with 
cords. Set a small flag in a hole bored in the top of the 
mast and then run cords from the top of the mast out to 
the ends of the arm pieces. 

With this toy the cars cannot be swung out obliquely 
as on the large flying airships except by 

Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork. This can be 
accomplished by removing one or two of the wheels of 
the clockwork, but it is not advisable to take out more 
than one wheel in addition to those removed for the 
merry-go-round (Fig. 257) because the mainspring would 
require rewinding too often to make the toy enjoyable. 



Of the modern handicrafts requiring materials other 
than wood, those in which metal is used are probably 
the most interesting to boys, for metal is one of their 
principal materials for all work of an electrical or me¬ 
chanical nature; and as metal handicrafts require tools 
such as most boys are accustomed to handle, the work is 
probably better suited to boys than to girls. 

Brass-piercing is an interesting metal craft, the material 
is inexpensive, and the work is simple. Following are 
The Tools and Materials Required: — 



Hammer 

Piercing Tool (see Fig. 278) 
Cold-chisel (see Fig. 278) 
Flat or Half-round Metal-file 


(see Fig. 33, page 25) 

Board (Whitewood or Bass¬ 


wood) i" x 12" x 20" 
Pencil, Eraser, and Compass 
Drawing-paper and Carbon 


Fig. 278. — Some of the Tools and 
Materials Required. 


Paper 

No. 30 Gauge Sheet Brass for 


small work 


206 

















































BRASS CRAFT 


207 


No. 28 Gauge Sheet Brass for large work 
6-oz. Tacks 

Round-head Escutcheon Pins (Fig. 278) 

Brass Shanks or Paper Fasteners (Fig. 278) 

Brass Screw-eyes 

Box of No. 20 Brass Chain (or Bead Fringe) (Fig. 278) 
Metal Polish and Lacquer 


To make easy the work of laying out designs for 
the articles illustrated in this chapter, suitable designs 
are shown at a small scale. Those which are more or 
less elaborate may be drawn full size by the process of 
Enlarging by Squares, which is easy to carry out. Each 
of the small squares drawn across these designs represents 
a space on the full-size pattern \ inch square (Fig. 281). 
The first thing to do is to lay out, full size, the outlines 
and marginal lines of the piece of brass required for the 
article upon a piece of drawing-paper, using the dimen¬ 
sions given upon the diagram. Take one side of the 
12-by-20-inch board for a drawing-board and use the other 
side to do the piercing on; tack the paper to the board. 
Then when you have carefully checked up the measure¬ 
ments with those upon the diagram, lay off the 
squares upon it, making each of those shown \ inch 
each way; then number one end of the horizontal lines 
and letter one end of the vertical lines as shown, and it 
will be a simple matter to locate each portion of the 
design upon your pattern just where it is shown in the 
book, for, by the lettering and numbering, corresponding 


208 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


squares can be located quickly. When the design has 
been drawn out full size, it is a simple matter to trace 
off the entire pattern — outline and design — upon a 
piece of brass, by placing a piece of carbon paper between 
the drawing-paper and the brass and then carefully trac¬ 
ing over the lines with a sharp pencil. Carbon paper 
such as stenographers use upon their typewriters for 
making duplicate copies of typewritten matter may be 
used. Where two sides of a design are similar (Fig. 285), 
enlarge one half, make a tracing of it, reverse the tracing, 
and trace it off upon the opposite side of the center-line; 
if the design is repeated several times, lay it out upon 
one section and then trace it off upon the other sections. 
By doing this it is easier to get all portions alike. Leave 
a margin of about \ inch around the edges of the outline 
to allow for turning in. Be sure not to cut out the 
piece from the sheet until after you have pierced the 
design, except in cases where the brass is to be mounted 
upon wood, for the square piece will be easier to hold to 
the board during this operation. 

When ready 

To pierce a Design, first follow the outlines of the entire 
design and pierce a continuous row of small holes along 
them, placing the holes as close together as possible and 
making them of equal size; then fill in a series of coarser 
holes in the spaces between these rows of holes to form 
a background to the design. As the piercing tool is 
tapered to a point, the size of the hole is, of course, deter 


BRASS CRAFT 


209 


mined by the depth to which it is driven through the 
brass. Drive the tool with a hammer. The background 

O 

holes should not be spaced off in even rows nor in the 
form of a pattern, for the effect would be such as to 
detract from the design, but they should be scattered 
over the field in such a way that the spaces between will 
be about equal; this will give the background an even 
tone. 

Wire brushes are sold for 

Polishing the Brass, but you will find that any sort of 
metal polish or scouring powder will answer the purpose 
very well. Of course the brass will tarnish and must be 
polished from time to time to keep it bright, unless some 
finish is put upon it. Brass lacquers — transparent or 
in color — may be purchased at the art stores, but you 
will find 

A Home-made Antique Green Lacquer of the following 
formula very pretty and a simple solution to make up : — 

1 part ammonia muriate 
1 part ammonia carbonate 
12 parts cold water 

The metal should be cleaned thoroughly and the solu¬ 
tion should be applied with a brush. Several applications 
of the lacquer will improve the depth of the finish. 

With these general instructions in mind, you can 
begin work upon some of the simpler articles illustrated 
in this chapter. 

A Tea-pot Stand such as is shown in Fig. 279 consists 


210 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Lectio 

Fig. 280. 

-Drivb- 3 - Ruc-Tacks 
into -Bottom wr FtFr- 


of a circular wood disk upon which a piece of perforated 
brass is mounted. Use a piece of ^--inch whitewood or 

basswood for the disk. Make it 
5^1 inches in diameter, cut it out 
with a compass-saw or other fine 
saw, and smooth the edges with a 
wood-file or chisel; then sand¬ 
paper it. Cut a strip of brass of 
the proper width and length to 
form a metal band for the edge of 
the base, and tack it to the edge 
with escutcheon pins (Fig. 2 78), 
spacing them about % inch apart. 



Fig. 279. 

Fig. 279. — A Tea-pot Stand. 
Fig. 280. — Section through 


Stand. 


The pattern for the top brass covering is shown in 
Fig. 281. After the de¬ 


sign has been laid out full 
size upon brass, the piece 
should be cut out before 
the perforating is done and 
fastened to the base with 
escutcheon pins. Describe 
a circle about ^ inch in¬ 
side of the edge of the 
brass, locate positions for 
the pins around this, f inch 
apart, and punch the holes 
at these points with the (° n the full - size P attern make each of 

small squares shown above 5 inch square, 
piercer before driving the to guide you in enlarging the design.) 



Fig. 281. — Pattern for Top of Tea-pot 
Stand and Calendar Board. 




































BRASS CRAFT 


211 


pins into the base. The edge of the brass top will pro* 
ject about ^ inch over the brass band (Fig. 280). 
Drive three rug tacks into the base, as shown, for feet. 

A Calendar Board like the one shown in Fig. 282 will 
make a pretty Christmas or New Year’s gift. Its con¬ 
struction is similar to that of the 
tea-pot stand, with the omission 
of the feet and the addition of a 
brass screw-eye screwed into the 
top by which to hang it up. A 
small calendar can usually be 
bought at a stationery store, and 
this should be attached to the exact 
center of the board by means of two 
escutcheon pins driven through 
the corners of the top margin. 

The Pen Tray illustrated in Fig. 283 requires a bottom 
block of the size shown in Fig. 284. After preparing 



Fig. 282. — A Calendar 
Board. 




Fig. 283. —A Pen Tray. 


Fig. 284. — Wood Bottom and 
Brass Rim for the Pen Tray. 


this, cut a piece of brass of the exact width and length 
of the block and fasten it to the top with escutcheon pins, 
spacing the pins about as shown in Fig. 283. Then en- 











212 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


large the design shown in Fig. 285, trace it off upon the 
brass, and perforate it. After this has been done, cut a 
strip of brass f inch wide, bend it to fit around the edge 

of the bottom block, 
as shown in Fig. 
284, and tack it to 
the edge to form 
a rim to the tray. 
The ends of the 
strip should be made to lap at one corner as in Fig. 283. 

File off the top edge of the rim smooth and glue a piece 

of felt to the bottom of the tray to prevent it from 
scratching any surface upon which it is placed. 

Lamp and candle shades are among the most popular 
pierced brass articles. Fig. 286 shows 

A Lamp-shade of six sides, and Fig. 287 how the 
sides appear when laid out on a sheet of brass. The de¬ 
sign is shown upon two of 
the panels, in the pattern: 
on one as it will appear 
when the background is per¬ 
forated, and on the other 
with the squares marked off 
upon it to help you in en- Fig. 286.—A Lamp-shade of Six Sides 
larging it. After laying 

out the design full size, trace it off upon each of the panels. 
The piece should be cut out, after the perforating has 
been completed, and folded along the dotted lines. Bend 


































BRASS CRAFT 


213 


the brass over the sharp edge of your board. The flaps 
''long the top and bottom edges should be turned in and 



Fig. 287. — Pattern for Lamp-shade of Six Sides. 


hammered flat against the sides of the shade, and the 
end edges should also be turned in and one lapped over 







































HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


214 

the other. Fasten the end edges with brass shanks, 
paper fasteners, or escutcheon pins (Fig. 278), bending 
the ends over upon the inside. If you use the pins, 
cut them off short and clinch them upon the inside by 
placing them on the head of a hatchet and hammering 
the heads with a hammer. 

Chain Fringe is cheaper and more interesting to put on 
than the bead fringe frequently used upon brass shades. 
Figure 278 shows the size which should be bought. Cut 
this up into 3-inch lengths and fasten the pieces to the 
lower edge of the shade about r 3 g inch from center to 
center, hooking the opened link on the end of each piece 
of chain through a hole punched through the brass, and 
then pinching it closed. 

The Candle-shade on the candle-stick in Fig. 291 
should be laid out by the pattern in Fig. 288. As the 
landscape design is very simple, it will not be necessary 
to enlarge it by squares. After piercing and cutting out 
the piece of brass, snip the top and bottom edges, cutting 
out small triangular pieces as shown, and then bend 
over the little flaps thus formed and hammer them down 
flat against the inside face of the shade. The edge of 
one end of the piece should also be turned in (see dotted 
line on pattern), and this should either be lapped over 
the other edge and the two fastened as described for the 
other shade, or the other edge should be folded out and 
one edge hooked into the other as the edges of a tin can 
are joined, and the two hammered down so as to make 


BRASS CRAFT 


215 





a neat edge. Attach chain fringe to the rim as de¬ 
scribed for the other shade. 

Figures 289 and 290 show two forms of 
Shade Holders, the former for an electric lamp and the 
latter for a candle. These can be 
bought where light-fixtures are sold 
and cost about 10 cents apiece. 

The Candle stick shown in Fig. 291 
is easy to make, and when the wood 

is carefully cov- FlG - 28 9 * 
ered with the 
brass, makes a 
very neat-ap- 


Fig. 290. 
Fig. 289.—Electric Lamp¬ 
shade Holder. 

pearing article. Fig. 290. — Candle-shade 
Figure 292 Holder. 

shows the sizes of the pieces of 
brass, together with the designs 
which are to be perforated upon 
them. First prepare the wood 
blocks for the base, upright, and top 
pieces, making them inch less 
than the dimensions given upon the 
patterns, to allow for the thickness 
of the brass. Before fastening the 
blocks together, prepare the brass 
pieces, nail them in place, lay out 

Fig. 291. — a Brass Candle- the designs, and perforate them, 
stick with Circular shade. The sides should be made in one 
















































2 l6 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


piece and be bent around the corners. The upper coven 
ing of the top and base pieces should project about ^ inch 


*—— 

EDGE OF TOP . 
(Cut Sthip C©no ¥ 
• NOvtM wcm 4 I06C%) 


EOGE OF BASE 

(tuT STRIP U)*C ENOUGH FOR 4 EDGES) 



Fig. 292. —Patterns for Brass Pieces of the 
Candle-stick. 

(Cut the wood blocks & inch less than the above 
dimensions to allow for the thickness ol the brass.) 

as shown in Fig. 291. After nailing 
the blocks together, glue a strip of felt 
to the bottom of the base piece. 

The “Paul Revere” Lantern shown 
in Fig. 293 differs from the lanterns 
used in the colonial times only in this 
respect — it is lighted by removing 
the bottom instead of through a door¬ 
way in the side. The door has been omitted to make 
the construction simpler; however, if you wish to make 
an exact copy, you may make a door and hinge it in place 
with pieces of wire. For this lantern the proper size for 
an opening would be 3^ by inches. 

The right-hand portion of the patterns for the side 



Fig. 293. — A “ Paul 
Revere” Lantern. 


























BRASS CRAFT 


217 




Fig. 294. — The 
Lantern Sides. 


and top pieces (Figs. 296 and 297) shows the main 
measurements for the design, and at the left the design 
is shown perforated. After laying out lines to the 
measurements given, divide up the spaces between into 
the number of spaces shown. The small holes of the 
design are made with a 
piercer, and the slits are 
cut with a cold-chisel (Fig. 

278). Space the perfora¬ 
tions as shown, and be 
careful to keep the ends 

of the slits within the Fig - 2 95 -— rhe 

Lantern Bottom. 

guide-lines 

The tips on the upper edge of the side piece slip 
through the slots cut in the top piece (Figs. 296 and 
297), and hold the top to the sides when bent over, 
while the two holes near the bottom edge are made 
to receive the pins which hold the bottom in place 
(Figs. 293, 294, and 295). 

Fasten the ends of the side piece together with 
brass shanks (Fig. 294), then cut a circular block of 
wood to fit in the bottom end of this cylinder (Fig. 295), 
and fasten to it a circular piece of brass of a large 
enough diameter to make a ^-inch projection beyond 
the sides of the lantern. Make a candle-holder out 
of a strip of brass, as shown in Fig. 295, and tack 
this to the base block. The pins for holding the bottom 
in the lantern are made out of two brass screw-eyes, 


2 1S 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


by filing off the threads, and these are held to the 
bottom with short pieces of brass chain to keep them 
from being lost when the bottom is removed for light¬ 
ing the candle. Before fastening the top to the sides 



Fig. 296. 


Fig. 296. — Pattern of Lantern Sides. 

Fig. 297. — Pattern of Lantern Top. 

Fig. 298. — Brass Strip for Lantern Ring. 

prepare the lantern ring. Cut a strip of brass of the size 
shown in Fig. 298, bend it over along the center to make 
it stiff, and then bend it into a ring and clinch the ends 
together like the sides of a tin can are clinched. Wire 
the ring to the peak as shown in Fig. 293. 










































ft 7 







1 1 ^ 8 


CHAPTER XIV 

THE HOME LABORATORY 


Maybe you have fitted up a “lab” in the basement, 
combining it with your workshop. Well and good. 
Some boys, however, prefer to have the lab upstairs in 
their room, realizing that this location affords greater 
opportunity for concentration upon theories and experi¬ 
ments set down in the text books and technical maga¬ 
zines that must play an important part in their lab 
program. A table and a chair or stool are two essen¬ 
tial pieces of lab equipment. Figure 325 shows a table 
with a large top suited to the purpose. Plans for build¬ 
ing it are given in Chapter VI. A small vise clamped 
to one end, and a rack across the back for files, drills, 
screw-drivers, pliers and other small tools, will organize 
the table for simple tool work and assembling. 

Before the advent of radio and the broadcast of pro¬ 
grams, every boy was interested in wireless telegraphy. 
It was his fondest dream to own and operate an amateur 
wireless telegraph station. Going back a generation 
further, it was the height of a boy's ambition to own 
a telegraph station. Today, with better materials and 


219 



























220 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


more data than were obtainable in the past, it is within 
the range of possibility for any boy to own a telegraph, 
wireless, or radio station, or all three, provided that he 
can comply with government regulations for the latter 
and can qualify for an amateur operator’s license. 
Since the regulations and qualifications are subject to 
revision, they are not presented here. They may be 
obtained from the supervisor of your district. 



Probably the best outfit to begin with is 
A Telegraph. Rig it up between your home lab and 
your chum’s house. There is not much to the outfit 
—a battery for current, a wire , a key for regulating the 
flow of current in the form of dot and dash signals, 
and a sounder , or receiver, for reproducing the signals 
audibly. Your chum, of course, must also have a 
battery, key, and sounder at his end of the line. 









THE HOME LABORATORY 


221 


The home-made outfit for which working diagrams 
and building instructions are given upon following pages 
will cost little for materials. Probably you will want 
to substitute standard equipment later, when you have 
learned the rudiments of telegraphy. 

Start the outfit with 



The Key shown in Fig. 299. Cut a base-block of 
the dimensions given in Fig. 300, out of |-inch or 
^-inch stock. Bevel its upper edges as shown. 

Make the key lever of a strip of tin of the size shown 
in Fig. 301, doubled along its center and then bent in 
half lengthwise, to give it stiffness. Make the key 









































222 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


knob of a spool end. Drive a short peg into its hole, 
and drive a round-headed tack into the lower end of 
the peg. Set the peg in the fold of the lever (Fig. 301) 
and hammer the tin tight against it (Fig. 299). Make 
the lever supports of a pair of inches by i§ inches 
iron corner-braces (Fig. 301) with one leg cut off just 
above the second hole. Drill a -^-inch hole through 
the center of the key lever, and mount the lever between 
the supports with a stove-bolt. 


Spoof knob 


& 16 poubled^tri^OTusLZ-^i 

rrn - 

s~Cut U— 

Off 

er truces 

LEVER SUPPORTS CONTACT PLATE 


/" x 3‘* 

. doubled 
4* X strip of 



xMendinQ 
‘ a plate 


Fig. 301. — Details of Key Lever, Supports, and Connections. 


Below the key fasten a mending-plate for a contact 
plate (Fig. 301). At one end of this make a binding- 
post of a square piece of tin and a screw-eye. At the 
other end drive a round-headed tack through the screw 
hole for the switch contact (Fig. 301). Make the switch 
of a doubled strip of tin of the given dimensions (Fig. 
301) with the front end bent up. Mount it with a 
screw passed through it and through the end hole of 
a key-lever support (Fig. 299). 






















THE HOME LABORATORY 


223 


To assemble the key, drive a staple over the key 
lever just back of the knob. Drive it down so that 
there is about ^ inch between it and the lever when 
the key is in contact with the contact plate. The rear 
end of the lever must have a spring to raise the key. 
A strong rubber band will do. Run it through a hole 
in the lever, and loop its ends over a screw driven into 
the rear end of the base block (Fig. 299). 



Fig. 302. — A Home-made Telegraph Sounder. 


The assembled key will click when you press it down 
on the contact plate, and it will click again when the 
rubber band throws it back against the staple. 

The Sounder is shown in Figs. 302 and 303. The 
first part to make is a pair of electro-magnets (Fig. 
304). These require a pair of 5-inch machine-bolts 
2 inches long for cores, and insulated bell wire or mag¬ 
net wire for coils. Cut six cardboard washers f inch 























224 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


IKrJl 


Armature 


Set hook 



gi —:!■ —'' so top is / 
=sl §-"a6oi/e 
magnet 
ends 


Fig. 303. — End View of Sounder. 


/fe-. 

nB ^ Off 

BINDING-POST© 

MENDING 

PLATE YOKE 

FROM BATTERY f 


• Yoke , • 

1 A ^ 


CARDBOARD 

WASHERS-' 



|r =; 

|| \% 
w* — • ^ 


2f“X2“B0LT 



MAGNETS CORE START COIL 

Fig. 304. — Details of Electro-Magnets. 















































































THE HOME LABORATORY 


225 


in diameter to fit the bolts. Place three of these on 
each bolt, one next to the head, and two next to the 
nut. Wrap a piece of paraffin paper around the bolt. 
Then slip one end of the insulated wire through a hole 
in the inner washer of the pair at the nut end of the 
bolt, and wind the wire upon the bolt with turns close 
together, and one layer over another, until the coil is 
of the diameter of the washers. Pull out the wire end 



between the pair of washers. Make the magnet yoke 
of a mending-plate, with two of the holes filed large 
enough to admit the bolt ends, and fasten it to the 
electro-magnets with the bolt nuts. 

Make the base of the sounder out of a block of wood 
| inch or | inch thick, and of the width and length 
shown in Fig. 305. Bevel its upper edges to give it a 
trim appearance. 






226 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


~A 

o 




3 "* 3 " 


2"X 2" 

corner 

braces 


■=o 


o 


T-PLATE 
ARMATURE 



LEVER 
SUPPORTS 



^ScreviA* 
5cre^ 

Hole for 
stove-bolt 

ARMATURE AND LEVER-BAR 


K 



Center pivot hole 


JmX 



5 " 



WOODEN LEVER-BAR 

Fig. 306. — Details of Armature and Lever-bar. 



































227 


THE HOME LABORATORY 

Mount the magnets at one end of the base, bore 
holes for the core nuts to fit in so that the yoke will 
set flat against the base, and screw the yoke to the 
base. Remove a pair of spring binding-posts from an 
old dry cell and screw them to the base in front of the 
magnets. Then connect the inner terminal of one coil 
to the inner terminal of the other coil, and connect 
the outer terminals to the binding-posts (Fig. 302). 

Figure 306 shows the armature and lever-bar. For 
the armature buy a 3-inch by 3-inch T-plate, and for 
the bar cut a strip of wood \ inch square and 5 inches 
long. Screw the T-plate to the bar end, as shown. 
For the lever supports, buy a pair of 2-inch by 2-inch 
corner braces. Drill a ^-inch hole through the center 
of the edge of the lever bar, and pivot the bar between 
the legs of the braces with a stove-bolt 1 inch long. 
Place the corner braces upon the base so the armature 
is directly over the magnet cores, and screw them to 
the base. 

To make the sounder click, screw a long screw-hook 
into the base, with its hook \ inch above the magnet 
bolt heads and turned in so that the armature will 
strike it. When the current flows through the magnet 
coils, the armature will be drawn down and it will click 
against the hook. The armature will be prevented 
from striking the magnets, which is important. If it 
were to come in contact, it would be held by residual 
magnetism. To make the click when the circuit is 


228 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


opened and the armature comes to rest, drive a screw 
into the under side of the rear end of the lever bar, 
and another in the base in the right position for it to 
strike (Fig. 302). Regulate the lengths of these screws 
so that the armature will be | inch above the screw- 
hook when the screws click. That is the correct 
adjustment. 



Fig. 307. — Hook-up for two Home-made Telegraph Sets, using two 

Line Wires. 


A rubber band or spring is necessary to raise the 
armature. Fasten it to a pair of screws, one in the 
end of the lever-bar, the other in the end of the base, 
as shown in Fig. 302. 

The Telegraph Hook-up is shown in Fig. 307. If your 
chum’s house is next door, or not too far away, use 
insulated annunciator wire for the line. For a dis- 





















































































THE HOME LABORATORY 


229 


tance, No. 14 galvanized wire supported on insulators 
will be more economical. 

Operation Notice by the hook-up diagram that the 
switch on the key of the set sending a telegram is open, 
and the switch of the set receiving is closed. As soon 
as you have sent a message and are ready to receive, 



Fig. 308. — A Gravity Cell is 
best for a Telegraph Circuit. 


close your switch. Your chum, having had his switch 

closed, will then open it to reply. 

Both switches must be left closed when not sending. 

This makes necessary batteries adapted to closed-circuit 

% 

work. A gravity cell (Fig. 308) is the type to use. 
Dry-cells will do, if you disconnect them after use. 
In that case, it will be necessary to telephone, or other- 
































230 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Morse 


Continental 




u 

w 


• o 


• # 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 
9 
O 


• • • 




Fig. 309. — The Morse Code is used in Telegraphy. 
The Continental Code is used in Wireless Telegraphy, 










THE HOME LABORATORY 


231 


wise notify your chum, when you are ready to use the 
wire, so that he may close his circuit. 

The Morse Code is used in telegraphy, while 

The Continental Code is usually employed in wireless 
telegraphy. Both are shown in the diagram of Fig. 309. 

After you have acquired the knack of transmitting 
dots and dashes with the proper pauses, or spaces , be¬ 
tween, your job will be to memorize the alphabet so 
that you can transmit or recognize without hesitancy 
the character for any letter or numeral. 

In the original edition of Handicraft for Handy 
Boys, the title of this chapter was “A Boy’s Wireless 
Telegraph Outfit.” It contained some of the first 
plans published for home-made receiving and trans¬ 
mitting sets. So successful was this outfit that thou¬ 
sands of amateur stations were set up all over the 
country. Indeed, a reader reported having used his 
outfit on shipboard while cruising upon the Great 
Lakes. 

But with the advent of the World War, and curtail¬ 
ment by the government of amateur wireless broad¬ 
casts, the sending outfit became almost a thing of the 
past. Then, with developments in wireless telephony, 
or radio, and the introduction of radio broadcasts, 
wireless telegraphy was practically abandoned by ama¬ 
teurs for the newer hobby, and attention centered on 
the building of radio receiving sets. Since the price of 
the commercial set was then beyond the reach of the 


232 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


average person, the home-made set, or home assembled 
set of purchased parts, was in such demand that ama¬ 
teur builders could not turn them out quickly enough 
to supply relatives, friends and neighbors. The author 
remembers well the thrill he obtained with his first 
one-tube set. Having completed it late one New 
Year’s eve, he put on the head-set, turned the dial, 
and almost instantly he was listening to the chimes of 




Fig. 310. — A Good Pair Fig. 31 i.— A Single 
of Telephone Receivers Receiver, 

with Head-band and 
Cord. 


Trinity Church, New York City, some thousand miles 
distant. 

In the early days of radio, broadcasting stations 
were few and far between, and there was little inter¬ 
ference. Tuning in a station was simple. The crystal 
wireless receiving set became the beginner’s first radio 
set. And for receiving broadcasts from stations not 
over 20 miles distant, crystal sets are still effective. 
Plans for the crystal receiving set originally published 
in this chapter have therefore been retained. 



THE HOME LABORATORY 


233 


A Crystal Receiving Set requires a single receiver or a 
pair of them, a detector, a tuning-coil, a condenser, and 
an aerial . 

The Receivers are part of the set that you cannot 
build satisfactorily. (Figs. 310 and 311.) Probably 
you can pick up a good pair, part of an old battery 
set, now reposing in some one's attic. 



Fig. 312. — A Home-made Detector. 
Fig. 313. — Strip of Brass with which 
Crystal is held to Binding-post. 

Fig. 314. — Bend a Piece of Wire like 
this and connect as shown in Fig. 312. 


The Detector is necessary to change the radio waves 
picked up by the aerial into such form as will be audible 
in the head-set. In other words, it changes the alter¬ 
nating current radio-frequency vibrations into direct 
current audio-frequency vibrations. 

The detector shown in Fig. 312 requires a galena or 
silicon crystal, a strip of brass with which to secure it 
to a binding-post (Fig. 313), and a piece of No. 30 
phosphor bronze wire, or springy brass wire for the 
cat-whisker (Fig. 314), or connection between the crystal 



234 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


and a second binding-post. You ought to be able to 
obtain one of these crystals from any dealer in radio 
parts. Probably it will come mounted upon a small 
metal block, the corner of which may be fastened to 
the wooden base. Bend a loop in the wire cat-whisker 
and mount it with one end held by the binding-post, 
the other end resting upon the crystal. In tuning the 
crystal set, move the end of the cat-whisker over the 
surface of the crystal until the most sensitive spot is 
located. 

The Tuning-coil shown in Fig. 315 makes it possible 
to adjust the set to the wave length of the station from 
which you want reception. It consists of a single layer 
of wire wound upon a cylinder or core not less than 
2\ inches in diameter, and 10 or 11 inches long. Use 
a cardboard mailing-tube or a wooden rolling-pin for 
the cylinder. The handles may be left on the rolling- 
pin to turn it by while winding on the wire, then sawed 
off afterwards. Use No. 25 B. and S. cotton covered 
magnet-wire or bare wire for the coil. If you use in¬ 
sulated wire, you must finally scrape bare a path for 
each slider so that it will make contact with the wires. 
If you use bare wire, you must insulate each turn from 
the turns adjoining it, by winding thread between the 
turns, as indicated in Fig. 316. Give the core two 
coats of shellac before winding the coil. This will form 
a yielding surface for the wire to cut into, and will 
keep the wire in place even though the wooden or card- 


THE HOME LABORATORY 


235 


board cylinder shrinks after the coil has been wound. 
When the wire has been wound, give the surface a coat 
or two of shellac. 

Cut two end-pieces 2f inches square and f inch 



Fig. 316. — How to wind Thread between the turns of Wire if Bare 
Wire is Used. 

Fig. 317. — Prepare Two End Pieces like This. 

Fig. 318. — How the Sliders should be cut and bent. 

Fig. 319. — Use this Form of Binding-post. 


thick, with J-inch notches cut in two corners (Fig. 
317), and screw them to the ends of the wooden cylinder. 
Or, if a cardboard mailing-tube has been used, screw 
the end-pieces to circular blocks of the inside diameter 


















































































236 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


of the tube, and then glue the blocks inside the tube 
ends. 

Get two pieces of brass rod | inch square and 12 
inches long, for the slider rods (Fig. 315), and drill 
two |-inch holes through each rod near one end and 
one §-inch hole through each rod near the other end. 
One of each pair of holes is provided for mounting a 
binding-post. The other holes are screw holes for 
attaching the rods to the wooden end pieces. 

Make the sliders (Fig. 315) of thin, springy sheet 
brass. Cut two strips of the size shown in Fig. 318, 
and round off one end of each. Bend the square end 
into a square sleeve to fit over the slider rod, and bend 
the round end so that it will bear against the tuner 
and make contact with the coil. Each slider should 
have a slight bend in its upper face, to form a spring 
that will keep the rounded end in contact with the 
coil. When the sliders have been bent properly, slip 
them on the rods, and screw the rods to the end pieces 
with round-headed screws. 

To remove the insulation from the wire along the 
paths of the sliders, first mark the paths by running 
the slider ends back and forth over the shellacked coil, 
then scrape through the shellac and cotton insulation 
with a sharp blade of a jack-knife. The folded edge 
of a piece of sandpaper will be helpful in removing the 
insulation and making the wire clean. 

Having attached a binding-post to each slider rod, 


THE HOME LABORATORY 


237 


fasten a third binding-post to one end-piece, as shown 
in Fig. 315. Connect an end of the wire winding to 
this third post. The tuning-coil hook-up in the set is 
indicated in Fig. 315. 

The Fixed Condenser is shown in detail in Figs. 320 to 
323. It is built up of sheets of tinfoil, thin writing- 
paper, cardboard and friction tape. Cut the cardboard 
and paper into the number of pieces and size shown in 



Fig. 322. 


Figs. 320-322. — Detail of a Home-made Fixed Condenser. 


Fig. 320, and the tinfoil into the number of pieces, 
shape and size shown in Fig. 321. 

Begin building the condenser by placing one of the 
pieces of cardboard on a flat surface. On this place a 
sheet of paper, then on it a sheet of tinfoil with the 
tab projecting at the left end. On the tinfoil place 
another sheet of paper, then on it a sheet of tinfoil 
with the tab projecting at the right end, and continue 
the assembly in this way, reversing the tab of alternate 








































238 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


layers of tinfoil (Fig. 322) until all of the sheets have 
been used. Over the top sheet of paper, place the 
second piece of cardboard. Cut two pieces of insulated 
wire about 12 inches long, bare one end of each, run 
them through the ends of the top cardboard (Fig. 322), 
and twist them around the tab ends of the tinfoil. By 
running the wires through the cardboard, before attach¬ 
ing them to the tinfoil tabs, whatever strain may be 
brought upon them will come upon the cardboard. 



Fig. 323. — Cover the Fixed Condenser with Tape. 

With the condenser assembled, wrap it from end 
to end with friction tape, as shown in Fig. 323. Figure 
324 shows how to connect the condenser across the 
telephone head-set. 

Mount the Crystal Set upon a board, using the hook-up 
shown in the diagram in Fig. 324. Or, if you have a 
desk like that in Fig. 325, arrange the parts upon it. 

Developments in Radio Sets have been many, and they 
have appeared with such frequency that it is next to 
impossible to present plans for a set with any degree 
of certainty that it will remain in good favor very long. 










THE HOME LABORATORY 


239 


Nor can one predict what parts now available will be 
on the market a few years hence. At the date of this 
writing, amateur builders are fortunate in being able 
to obtain old-model sets for little or nothing, from 
which much can be adapted to build late types of sets. 
Short-wave sets are now the fad, transmitters as well 
as receivers, while the more ambitious fans are tinkering 
with television. All that is new in radio will be found 
in the monthly radio publications upon the news¬ 
stands, and it is recommended that you refer to them, 
so that you may keep abreast of the times in this 
interesting hobby. 

Whatever your radio set may be, and whether factory- 
built or home-made, 

The Aerial will be of your own rigging. Figure 326 
shows an aerial or set of antennae of several wires. 
A single wire of from 50 to 75 feet in length is gener¬ 
ally accepted as preferable to two or more shorter 
wires. And one length of aerial wire, extending from 
the extreme end of the aerial to the set, supported 
on insulators, is a better rig than separate aerial and 
lead-in, unless a perfect soldered connection can be 
made. 

The aerial supports will be determined by local con¬ 
ditions. If it is necessary to extend the aerial over 
a roof-top, a chimney becomes the natural support for 
one end (Fig. 326). But where it can be done, it is 
better to run the aerial wire over cleared ground. 


240 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Fig. 324. — Hook-up for Crystal Receiving Set. 














THE HOME LABORATORY 


241 


The receiver building may be one support, and a 
second building, a tree, or an iron pipe may be the 
other support. 

An Iron-pipe Mast is not expensive, and not difficult 
to erect (Fig. 327a). You can buy galvanized-iron 
pipe in 20-foot lengths, threaded on both ends, with a 
coupler on one end (Fig. 327b), at a hardware store. 
Two lengths of i-inch or ij-inch pipe will usually be 
sufficient, allowing 30 inches for ground anchorage. 
In addition, buy for the base, a 36-inch length of pipe 
of large enough diameter to slip over the lower end 
of the mast, a pipe cap for the top, an eye-bolt for 
the attachment of a clothesline pulley, a rope halyard, 
and an iron cleat. 

A Concrete Base must be cast for the support of the 
mast. It should be about 20 inches in diameter, or 
18 inches square, and 30 inches deep, of a mixture of 
gravel, or crushed stone, sand and cement, in the 
proportion of 4 parts stone, 3 parts sand, and 1 part 
cement. 

After excavating for the base, stand the 36-inch 
length of pipe in the center of the hole, plumb it so 
that it is exactly vertical, and brace its top with tem¬ 
porary braces. Then mix the concrete, shovel it into 
the excavation, and tamp it into a compact mass. 
Bring the top of the concrete an inch or so above the 
ground level. 

Assembling the Mast. Couple the lengths of pipe, and 


242 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 










































































































































































































































THE HOME LABORATORY 


243 


screw the pipe cap to the top. Drill holes for the top 
eye-bolt, and for bolts for attaching the cleat, and 
fasten these fittings to the pipe. Unless the pipe is 
galvanized, give it a coat of red lead and one of black 
paint, or two coats of asphalt paint. With the aid 
of poles having end crotches formed of crossed sticks, 



Fig. 326. — The Length of the Mast can be reduced by using a Chimney for 
Support. A Single Wire 50 to 75 Feet Long is preferable to several shorter 
Wires for the Aerial. 

it will be a simple matter for two fellows to raise the 
pipe and drop it into the base pipe. 

Insulation of the Aerial requires the use of glass or 
porcelain insulators (Fig. 327a). It is a good idea to 
use two insulators on each end of the aerial, placing 
them 12 inches apart. Make the lead-in wire fast to 
a porcelain spool or cleat, then run it through a por- 














































































































244 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Fig. 327a. — Aerial Mast and Rigging. Fig. 327b. — Details of Pipe Mast. 













































THE HOME LABORATORY 


245 


celain tube set in a hole bored through the wall, window 
frame, or window sash (Fig. 325). 

Hook up a lightning-arrester with the lead-in wire 
and an outside ground, to comply with rules of the 
fire underwriters. This will not make a ground con¬ 
nection, of course, unless a bolt of lightning jumps 
the arrester gap. 

An Electric Question-answer Map. Electric map boards 
are one of the popular forms of question-answer 
devices, and they reveal how few people have fixed 
in their minds the location of the principal cities 
and towns of countries. Take Palestine, for example; 
can you chart upon an unlettered map the ten cities 
of Nazareth, Damascus, Tiberas, Beersheba, Joppa, 
Jericho, Samaria, Hebron, Bethlehem and Jerusalem? 
Try it. Figure 328 shows a map of Palestine adapted 
to a question-answer board. Each city is located by 
a metal contact point, and each point is connected 
by wire to one of a column of contact points, with a 
key to the city lettered opposite. Two electric wires 
hooked up with a flashlight battery lamp and a dry¬ 
cell determine the accuracy of positions pointed out. 
With one pointer placed upon the contact tack opposite 
the name of the city, the other pointer placed cor¬ 
rectly on the map, the electric circuit is closed, and 
the little lamp lights. 

The Question-answer Board Base may be a piece of box 
board, plywood or fibreboard, 12 inches square or 


246 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Fig. 328. — The Question-Answer Map. 




































THE HOME LABORATORY 


247 


thereabouts, and f inch or \ inch thick (Fig. 329a). 
You will need, in addition, twenty-one f-inch thumb¬ 
tacks for contact points, some fine magnet wire and 
a piece of drop-cord, for wiring, a flashlight bulb and 
a flashlight unit cell, a piece of tin from a can, and a 
pair of J-inch stove-bolts. 

Make a Tracing of a Map about 7 inches wide and 10 
inches high, and reproduce the tracing upon a sheet 
of drawing paper. If you cannot find a map of that 
size, enlarge a small map by the square process. (See 
“Enlarging by Squares,” on page 207.) Draw the 
map in ink and color it with crayons. Locate the 
cities by pricking the paper with a pin. 

Place the map upon the base board, and locate the 
cities on the board by making holes with a pin. Locate 
a column of pinholes f inch apart, at the right of the 
board, as indicated in Fig. 329b, for the key contact 
tacks. One-eighth inch to one side of each pinhole 
drill a tiny hole through the board for the wiring. 
Cut the magnet wire, that you obtained for the wiring, 
into lengths that will extend from hole to hole. Run 
the wire ends through the board, and form loops 
through which to stick thumb-tack contacts (Figs. 
330a and 330b). 

Coat the back of the map with glue, place it so 
that the pinholes center on the tacks, and press it 
down and weight it until the glue has set. 

Prepare the Key on a strip of paper about 2§ inches 


248 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


O 

'o 

QQ 

\ 


V 


1 


CM 


i. 


o 

a? 


HTT 



>> 

<v 


a 

• (H 

JD u 

cO 

6 
>—< 

Uh 


— H* 

.T 1 ~J 


—Icsl 


jL-<^ 


9 




FlS 

^ <2 

s| 

i 0 

O ^ 

O S 


O 


IT 

totoo cT s 

Aj> 6 Q O 9 <p O <? O <j3-^ 

/ j ! / I I I I I I 

‘ ft I | / I 

/III 




~ {r L 

C\J~^ 


! i 


t 


1 1 
1 1 
1 1 
1 1 
! 1 


O 


a 


1 1 
1 1 

°j 

''Q 


i ! 

1 t 
1 

i 


0 
: o 

1— 


-o 




•-- - —, j 


■«si 


■H 


Fig. 329a. — Wiring Diagrams for the Map Board. 
































THE HOME LABORATORY 


249 


wide. Locate on this the column of pinholes, and 
typewrite or handletter the names of the cities opposite 
the holes, as suggested in Fig. 329b. Glue this strip 
over its tack contacts. 

With the gluing done, scrape away or cut the paper 
at each tack, to make bared spots about inch in 



Fig. 330c. Fig. 33od. 

Pointer. Base Tack 



Fiber board 


\ 


Paper 

u 


( .-Scrape Qway 
! paper to bare 
'head of 

\ thumb-tack 


Fig. 330a. 


Fig. 330b. 

Tack Wiring Details. 


diameter (Fig. 330b). If you own a paper punch, it 
will make a neater job to punch the holes before gluing 
the paper to the board. 

Figure 331a shows details of 

The Lamp Base and Battery Case. Cut a piece of tin 
from a can, flatten it, and lay out upon it the pattern 






250 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


shown in Fig. 331b. Cut this out, punch a hole through 
the top flap of the right size for a battery lamp to 




Hole 

for 1 r 
Lamp 


v _|_ 


'^Fo/d on 


Dotted Lines 



J 

4tq t 5 ! 



Fig. 331b. — Pattern for Base 
and Case. 



'^flashlight 



Flashlight 
Battery Lamp 


■Lamp base 
and battery case 

i*Stove 

Bolt 


-tyl * 

\ Thumb-tack 

Contact 


Fig. 331a. — Details of Lamp Base and Battery Case. 

thread into, and punch a hole through the lower lugs 
for bolts. Fold the tin as indicated, and bolt it to 
















































THE HOME LABORATORY 


251 


the base board (Figs. 328 and 329a). Cut a piece of 
insulated drop-cord 12 inches long, and another 16 
inches long, for the lamp and battery-cell terminal- 
wires, and bore holes through the base board for 
them to run through. Then connect an end of one 
wire to one of the battery-case bolts, and the other 
to a thumb-tack contact-point at the bottom of the 
battery-case (Fig. 331a). Bend down the top of the 
case so that there will be good electrical contact when 
the unit cell is slipped between the lamp and the tack 
contact. 

For Pointers, bend a loop in the ends of two short 
pieces of heavy copper wire (Fig. 330c). Connect the 
wires to the loops, and tape up the connections. 

A rubber headed tack, glued to each corner of the 
under side of the base, completes the map board, 
unless you wish to add a coat of white shellac to all 
surfaces. After shellacking, clean the contact points. 

A Simple Steam Turbine. Build good bearings into 
the model turbine shown in Fig. 332 and it will prove 
one of the best toys you ever owned. When the 
steam is up, the rotor begins to turn slowly, then 
speeds up, as the steam pressure increases, until you 
can no longer see spaces between the vanes. You 
will be thrilled with the results from this simple job, 
and, unless I am mistaken, you will feel the urge to 
build a more elaborate model, patterned after the 
modern turbine. 


25 * 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


































THE HOME LABORATORY 


253 


Figure 332 shows two views of the combined turbine 
and boiler. 

For the Boiler get a quart tin can of the type in 




Tin can 
toiler 


Fig. 333a. — Details of Boiler. 


which molasses and syrups are sold (Fig. 333a). ^ 

will have a flanged inset cover which will make the 
tight fit required for the steam chamber. 























254 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


For the Steam Port, you can solder a short length of 
^-inch brass or copper tubing in a hole drilled through 
the cover. But I found the small wheel with tubing 
hub, mounted upon the hand pivot of an old alarm 
clock, very good for my model (Fig. 333a). Drill or 
punch through the cover a hole a trifle smaller in 



Fig. 333b. — Details of Rotor. 


diameter than the wheel hub, and force the hub through 
the hole. This will make a mechanical joint that will 
not require solder. 

The Turbine Support is shown in Fig. 333a. The lower 
edge is notched to fit over the flanged can top, and a 
hole is bored through it to admit the shaft. Its size 


















































THE HOME LABORATORY 


2 55 


and the location of the shaft hole will be determined 
by the diameter of the rotor. 

The Rotor is made of the cover from a coffee can 
3! inches in diameter. A smaller size of cover will 
do. Snip the rim with a pair of tinsnips, as shown 
in Fig. 333b, at intervals of \ inch. Bend the tin 
outward with a pair of pliers, and twist until at right 
angles with the cover, to form the vanes. Be careful 
to do a uniform job of bending. 

Punch or drill a hole through the center of the rotor 
just large enough for the shank of a clockwork wheel 
(Fig. 333b), and rivet the wheel to the rotor with small 
copper rivets. Use a finishing-nail for a shaft, and 
drill a small hole in the support to drive it into. 

Mount the Rotor upon its support in the correct posi¬ 
tion for the vanes to pass over the steam port when 
the block is fastened to the boiler top (Fig. 332). 

Set Up the Turbine Boiler over a gas-stove burner. 
When you have got up a good head of steam, you can 
regulate the speed of the rotor by turning the burner 
up or down. It is surprising how quickly the steam 
pressure will respond to the adjustment of the valve. 

Finishing. After you have tried out the turbine and 
completed adjustments, paint the parts. Use stove 
enamel for the boiler, red lacquer for the rotor, and 
yellow for the rotor vanes and the support. Put a 
temporary wooden plug in the steam port to keep the 
lacquer from closing it, then be sure to remove it. 





iWfeffl 


CHAPTER XV 


FOR A BOYS’ VAUDEVILLE 
SHOW 



About the best kind of show for a neighborhood of 
boys, a boys’ club, or a school organization to give is one 
in which each boy can do a special act or “ stunt.” It 
may be an exhibition of magic-lantern views, a sleight- 
of-hand performance, panorama or puppet show, boxing- 
match, or one of an endless variety of entertaining acts. 
The strong man , magical mortar , boy with a wonderful 
voice , crack-shot , and ventriloquist acts described in this 
chapter are easy to prepare. 

Sam Dow, the strong man (Fig. 334), should wear a 
long-sleeved shirt with the shoulders and sleeves padded 
out to form large muscles, and should also pad the 
calves of his legs; if this padding throws the muscles 
out of their natural positions, so much the better. 

For the great act of 

Holding out a Chair upon which a Boy is seated, you will 

need an old seatless chair or a box with the ends 
knocked out and two uprights and crosspieces nailed to 
it for a back (Fig. 335). Drape the chair or box with 
a sheet or a piece of cloth of any kind large enough to 

256 










































FOR A BOYS’ VAUDEVILLE SHOW 


257 



Fig. 334. — Sam Dow, “ The Strong Man,” holding a Seated Boy at Arm’s 

Length. 


hang down to the floor all around when the chair is held 
out at arm’s length (Figs. 334 and 336), leaving the seat 
opening uncovered. Next get a pair of short trousers, 
stuff the legs, fasten a pair of stuffed stockings 
to the knees, fit the feet into a pair of shoes, 
and then fasten the legs to the chair, as shown 
in Fig. 336. The boy who is to appear to be 
seated upon the chair stands in the opening 
in the seat with the waist of the false trousers 
fastened and concealed under his coat (Fig. 334). 

While the chair stands on the floor, the boy I 1G ' 335 \ 

J Framework 

rests on his knees, but when the strong man 0 f Chair. 








































258 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


grasps the back of the chair with his hand and com¬ 
mences to lift, the boy slowly arises to his feet, taking 
the position shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 334. 

Two attendants should carry the chair on to the stage, 
and the “ seated ” boy should hold on to the sides and 

lift his feet so as to give the 
boys an actual load to carry 
in. After Sam Dow has 
held the chair by each hand, 
and then by one finger, the 
audience will be convulsed 
with laughter if the chair is 
allowed to remain in the air 
a few seconds after he has 
released his hold upon it. 
A great deal of additional 

Fig. 336. —The Draped Chair with fun can always be furnished 
False Legs Attached. to the au dience by “ giving 

away ” the trick in some such manner after a perform¬ 
ance of this kind. 

The famous 

Dumb-bell Lifting Feat must not be overlooked. Make 
the 2000-lb. dumb-bell like that shown in Fig. 337, 
preparing each end out of two barrel-hoops crossed 
at right angles with the cross-piece A fastened in the 
center (Fig. 338). Make the handle out of a piece of 
curtain-pole or iron pipe; if the latter is used, it can be 
struck by the strong man to show the audience that it 











FOR A BOYS’ VAUDEVILLE SHOW 


259 


really is made of iron. Fasten the ends of the handle in 
holes bored through cross-pieces A. Cover the hoops 
with cloth, then on top of this place enough padding to 



fill out the flattened portions and make them perfectly 
round, and cover the padding with black cloth. Paint 
the handle black and letter the weights upon the ends 
with white paint. 

A couple of boys should drag the dumb-bell on to the 
stage, then Sam Dow should demonstrate his strength 
by lifting it with each hand, holding it upon his chin, 
balancing it on end upon his head, lying down upon his 
back and lifting it with his feet, and lifting it with his 
teeth by means of a piece of rope tied around the 
handle. 










26 o 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


The strong man may demonstrate his ability as a 
juggler by 

Juggling with Heavy Balls — croquet or bowling balls 
covered with silver or black paper, and he should intro¬ 
duce as a special attraction 

Bonehead, the man with a head of solid ivory, upon 
which 500-lb. cannon-balls can be dropped without any 
apparent effect. Two balls of exactly the same size 
must be used in this stunt — an association foot-ball or a 
basket-ball for one, and a large bowling ball for the 
other are just the things if you can get them, otherwise 
use a croquet ball and a rubber ball of the same size. 
Cover the balls with black paper or tin-foil to make them 
look as nearly alike as possible. 

Sam Dow should first pick up the heavy ball and 
allow it to crash upon the stage floor to let the audience 
see that it is solid; then he must pick up the rubber ball 
as though it were of the same weight and with an ap¬ 
parent effort toss it into the air so that it will land upon 
the head of Bonehead. Sam Dow should catch the ball 
as soon as it bounces off of Bonehead and toss it to one 
side of the stage out of view of the audience. A crack¬ 
ing sound should be made the instant the ball strikes 
Bonehead, and a louder crashing noise when Sam Dow 
throws it to one side. The strong man’s stunts always 
make a big hit. 

The Magical Mortar (Fig. 339). Get a sugar barrel 
from your grocer and a packing-case about 30 by 30 by 


FOR A BOYS’ VAUDEVILLE SHOW 


26l 


40 inches in size at a dry-goods store, out of which to con¬ 
struct the mortar. If the barrel has wire hoops, fasten 
them to the staves with small staples ; if wooden hoops, 
fasten them to the staves with small nails. Knock out 
the bottom of the barrel and saw away part of one side, 
as shown in Fig. 

340, and cut away a 
little of one end of 
the box for end A of 
the barrel to fit in 
(Fig. 339); set end 
B inside of the box 
(Fig. 339^ and fasten 
its hoops (D, Fig. 

340) to the box sides. 

Make the bearing 
blocks as shown at 
C (Fig. 339) and tack 
a piece of cloth over end B and to the edges of the box. 
Cut a 20-inch opening in one side of the box for a door 
(see dotted lines, Fig. 339). 

The Professor exhibiting the mortar must have two 
assistants, No. 1 to operate the mortar from within the 
box, and No. 2 to wait upon him. For 

The Wonderful Hat Trick, the professor should take 
an old derby, fedora, or straw hat, a duplicate of which 
has been placed inside of the mortar, and in full view 
of the audience tear it into bits, then put the pieces 



— The Magical Mortar. 

— How the Barrel is Cut. 

























262 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


into a paper bag, throw the bag into the mortar, and 
shoot the hat from the mortar in a whole condition. 
Of course as the mortar is discharged assistant No. 1 
throws out the duplicate hat, having first placed it 
in the bag after removing the pieces of the torn hat. 

The mortar is charged from the nail keg “ powder 
cans ” standing behind it, and the report is produced 
by having some one strike a piece of sheet-iron with 
a hammer. 

Other Mortar Stunts. The professor may place a 
dog in the mortar and fire out his “remains 1 ’ in the form 
of a string of sausage, and transform all sorts of things 
in a similar manner. 

Assistant No. 2 should wear a false-face in order to 
be prepared for 

The Professor’s Final Exhibition. Having run out of 
“gun powder,” the professor sends assistant No. 2 for 
more, and after he has gone, moves the mortar to one 
side of the stage in such a position that assistant No. 1 
can crawl out through the opening in the side. The 
professor no sooner turns around to the audience than 
there is the sound of a terrific explosion (strike a piece 
of sheet-iron with a hammer), and what appears to be 
the assistant’s body is thrown upon the stage, with its 
head, arms, and legs dismembered. 

The professor mourns the loss of his assistant and 
“ powder,” then thinks of the magical mortar and 
announces that he will out the man together again. 


FOR A BOYS’ VAUDEVILLE SHOW 


263 


He gathers up the members of the body, places them 
in the mortar, goes out and rolls a barrel of “ powder ” 
on to the stage, and after moving the mortar back 
to the center of the stage, loads and discharges it. 
Instantly the assistant jumps forth whole and very 
much alive. Of course he crawls into the box, through 
the hole in the side, while it is over at one side of the 
stage. 

Make the Dummy Assistant, thrown in at the time of 
the explosion, out of old clothes, ripping off the sleeves 
and legs of a coat and pair of trousers and stuffing each 
part with newspapers. Make a stuffed head, and fasten 
upon it a false-face similar to the one worn by the assist¬ 
ant so the heads will look exactly alike. 

Falsetto, the boy with a wonderful voice, proved a 
great success in an amateur vaudeville. He stands 
in front of a curtain stretched across the stage, and 
back of this curtain are four assistants, — two boys, 
one with a bass, the other with a tenor voice, and 
two girls, one with an alto, the other with a soprano 
voice. Your sisters will probably be willing to help 
you out in this unseen part of the performance. 

At the left of the stage the young vocalist sings 
the first verse of a song in pantomime, while the as¬ 
sistant with the tenor voice stands directly behind him 
on the other side of the curtain and does the actual 
singing. Responding to the applause, — which he is 
certain to receive, Falsetto bows, walks over nearer 


264 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

the center of the stage, and goes through with the 
second verse in a soprano voice; for the third verse 
he moves a little farther over to the right, and here 
his voice changes to bass; and in an alto voice he 
sings the fourth verse at the extreme right of the 
stage. 

With a little practice a boy will be able to get the 
proper expression to the mouth; and when well done 
you will find that this act will make one of the biggest 
hits of the show. 

The Ventriloquist who throws his voice into the mouth 
of a doll in such a way that it sounds to the audience 

as though the doll 
were actually speak¬ 
ing is always a good 
entertainer. 

It is a simple mat¬ 
ter to make 

A Ventriloquist’s 
Doll (Fig. 341), and if 
you haven’t the power 
of throwing your voice 
and talking without 
moving your lips, you 
can obtain just about 
as good results by 
having an assistant 
behind a curtain back 



Fig. 341.— The Ventriloquist operating the 
Speaking Doll. 


























FOR A BOYS’ VAUDEVILLE SHOW 


265 


of the doll do the talking while you operate the doll’s 
head and mouth. 

Make the head framework (Fig. 342) out of i-inch 
strips, and buy a false-face for the face. Cut strip A 
4 inches long, B 
and C 9J inches 
long, E 5 inches 
long, and F 16 
inches long. 

Fasten the end 
of A between B 
and C, and center 
E upon B and C 
(Fig. 342). Cut 
the false-face as 
shown in Fig. 

343, tack the 
upper portion to 
strips A and E 
at 1, 2, and 3 (Figs. 342 and 343), and the chin to strip D 
at 4; pivot the end of D between strips B and C with a 
nail. With a little care in pivoting the jaw in place, 
the mouth will open and close to a nicety. Fasten 
a rubber band between A and D and a piece of string 
with a small ring tied to its end to the under side of 
D (Fig. 342). Set strip F between the lower end of 
B and C, and after fastening it in place whittle the 
lower part round as shown. 





6 


Fig. 342. 


Fig. 343. 

Fig. 342. — Framework 
for Head of Ventrilo¬ 
quist Doll. 

Fig. 343.—The Doll’s 
False-face. 

Fig. 344. — Complete 
Framework of Doll’s 
Body. 


H 


& 



Fig. 344. 

















































266 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Cut the body strips H and / (Fig. 344) 30 inches 
in length, the foot blocks J and K 6 inches long, and 
the shoulder cross-piece G 15 inches long. Nail the 
pieces together as shown, and fasten a barrel-hoop to 
strips H and /at Z; bore a hole in the center of G 
large enough for the neck strip F to turn in. 

With the framework prepared it is a simple matter to 
put a suit of clothes upon it and stuff it out with rags 
and newspapers. Paste paper across the eye-openings 
and paint the pupils with water-colors; build out the 
back of the head with paper and cover it with cloth. 
Fasten a collar and necktie around the doll’s neck and 
a pair of stuffed gloves in the ends of the sleeves for 
hands. Pin up the tails of the coat, so you can reach 
the end of stick F> and slip your finger through the cord 
jaw-manipulator. 

Prepare a conversation to carry on with the doll, select 
several songs for him to sing, and request your audience 
to talk with him. The success of this act depends 
entirely upon how well the ventriloquist manipulates the 
head and jaws of the doll and keeps the movements in 
time with the talking assistant. If there is enough 
space behind the curtain for the assistant to walk from 
side to side of the stage, the ventriloquist may carry the 
doll about. 

Willie Shute, the crack shot of the world, shoots por¬ 
traits upon targets, an act which will interest any 
audience. 


FOR A BOYS’ VAUDEVILLE SHOW 


267 


The Targets are easy to prepare. For these get some 
fresh pieces of heavy manila wrapping-paper at the 
grocery store. Sketch a simple outline of a head 
(Fig. 345) upon one sheet, then get a piece of small brass 
tubing (an old gas-burner will do) and file one end to a 



Fig. 346. Fig. 345. Fig. 347. 

Fig. 345. — The Outline of the “ Portrait ” shot out by “ Willie Shute.” 

Fig. 346. — The Reverse of the “ Portrait ” showing the Paper Strips over 


the Holes. 

Fig. 347. — The Blank Paper which the Audience first sees. 

Fig. 348. — Blunderbuss made for “ Willie Shute.” 

sharp cutting edge. Lay the sheet upon a piece of lino¬ 
leum, and, with the tubing as a punch and a hammer to 
strike it, punch out holes along the sketched outline 
(Fig. 345). Lay this punched sheet upon another sheet 
of the same kind of paper and mark the location of each 
hole, then cut away all except enough to cover the 
holes. Tack the punched sheet upon a wooden frame. 
































































268 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


stretching the paper as tight as possible, then fasten the 
cut-out portion of the second sheet over the back of the 
holes with small paper strips (Fig. 346). Make several 
portraits, also write out the names of a few of the audi¬ 
ence whom you expect, and fora final stunt have a target 
on which to shoot the words “ Good Night! ” 

The frames should be set in a row upon a table and 
be surrounded by draperies to conceal the assistant be¬ 
hind them. The light should be thrown upon the targets 
from in front, to prevent the holes from showing as a 
result of shadows. 

Willie Shute announces that he will shoot the portrait 
of a boy upon the first target, then with a small gun he 
aims at the target and commences to cock and pull the 
trigger. As fast as the trigger snaps the assistant tears 
off the paper backing, beginning at A (Fig. 346). The 
audience will see nothing but a blank piece of paper at 
first (Fig. 347), but as each hole is uncovered it will show 
up black (Fig. 345). With 

A Blunderbuss made by fastening a tin funnel upon the 
end of a toy gun (Fig. 348) an entire portrait can be 
made in one shot. If you haven’t a toy gun, you can 
whittle one out of a stick and attach some kind of trigger 
that will make a clicking sound. 

A Program Board upon which to announce each act of 
your performance is shown in Fig. 349. Make the board 
12 inches by 18 in size, and cut strips A and B 16 inches 
long and C and D 8 inches long. Paint the board white 


FOR A BOYS’ VAUDEVILLE SHOW 


269 


and letter the word “ Program ” across the top with black 
paint. Cut the “ number" slips 4 inches by 19, out of 
cardboard, and letter the names of the acts upon them. 
Hane this board at 




=£= 


PROG RAM 


H 


SAM DOW 




one side of the stage p 
where an attendant 
can reach it easily 
to change the num¬ 
ber slips. 

H ave the boy 
who owns a print¬ 
ing-press 

Print the Admission Tickets, with the type set up in the 
form used for theater tickets. 


Fig. 349. — A Program Board. 



































r 


CHAPTER XVI 

MOVING PICTURES 



You may have your own moving pictures at home by 
making 

A Simple Machine such as shown in Fig. 350. This toy 
consists of a cardboard cylinder with slots cut in its 

sides, which is mounted upon a wooden 
base fastened to the end of a stick, 
while the pictures are made on strips 
of cardboard and represent a man, horse, 
dog, or some other subject, in action, 
drawn in just the positions in which it 
would appear in a series of photographs 
taken in rapid succession. The strips of 
pictures are placed, one at a time, inside 
of the cylinder close to the sides and 
facing in, then the cylinder is whirled 
around by means of the stick upon which 
it is pivoted, and by looking through the slots, in the 
sides you see a number of men, horses, dogs, or what¬ 
ever the figures may be, moving just as they would appear 
upon the screen at a regular moving-picture show. 

270 



Fig. 350.—A Mov¬ 
ing-picture Machine. 


















































MOVING PICTURES 


271 


The Wooden Base for the cardboard cylinder is the 
first thing to make (Fig. 351). Upon a piece of board 
about inch thick describe a 
circle 5J inches in diameter with 
a compass, or if you haven’t a 
compass, hunt up a jug or china 
saucer of this diameter and mark 
out around its rim. With a scroll- 
saw or a coping-saw it will be 
easy to follow the circle in saw¬ 
ing out the base, but with a large 
saw it will be necessary to cut 
off first the four corners of the 
board close to the circle, then the 
eight corners thus produced, then 
the sixteen corners, and so on 
until it is as round as you can get it, and then finish off 
the edge with a chisel and sandpaper. 

Bore a -J-inch hole through the center of the base, 
then get a lead-pencil 6 inches long (or whittle a stick to 
the same size) and three spools, two of which will fit 
tight upon the pencil and the third loose. The holes 
in spools of different shapes vary a trifle in size, so prob¬ 
ably you will find that mother or sister has just what 
you want. Push the upper end of the pencil through 
spool A so that about J inch projects (Fig. 352), cover 
it and the top of the spool with glue, and stick it through 
the hole bored in the base (Fig. 351); then press spool 



Fig. 351. — The Base for the 
Cardboard Cylinder. 

Fig. 352. — The Spool and 
Pencil which are glued to 
the Base. 



















272 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


A against the base until it is glued fast. Slip spool B 
on to the pencil and glue spool C on to the end (Fig. 354). 

For the Cylinder get some light-weight cardboard that 
will be easy to cut, mark out a piece 3^ inches wide and 


<* N 

l< —lf~* 


J 

-l<\J 


--Si- 

T8 - * 




-If- 

1 
























Fig. 353. — Pattern for Cardboard Cylinders. 


16-f inches long (Fig. 353), and mark off the ten slots at 
equal distances apart. Cut out the cylinder with a pair of 
shears or a sharp knife, then tack its 
lower edge to the edge of the wooden 
base, as shown in Fig. 354, and glue 
the ends of the cardboard together. 

The Clown and Ball Pictures (Fig. 

355) are shown in four pieces, as are 

The Circus Horse and Hound Pictures 
(Fig. 356). Each set when joined 
together end to end will make a strip 
just long enough to reach around the 
inside of the cylinder. They are 
drawn full size, so all you will have to 
do will be to trace them off upon a 
piece of transparent paper and then 
transfer them upon a piece of heavy 
paper or light-weight cardboard, plac- 



Fig. 354.—The Com¬ 
pleted Moving-picture 
Machine. 



















































MOVING PICTURES 


273 

ing the ends A , 3, and C together so as to form a 
continuous strip. To hold the strips in place against 
the sides of the cylinder, drive a number of small brads 
into the top of the base just far enough away from the 
edge so the strips will slip between them and the cylin- 
der (Fig. 351). 

To operate the Toy, hold it by the middle spool with 
one hand and make the cylinder revolve by turning the 
bottom spool with the other hand (Fig. 350). 

The Automobile. Figure 357 shows a modern adapta¬ 
tion of an old form of optical illusion. Give the book 



Fig. 357. — Give Book a Circular Motion and See the Car Run. 

a circular motion, at the same time looking steadily at 
the center of the picture, and the wheels will immediately 
appear to revolve and the automobile to run. 

By cutting out a side view of an automobile from a 
magazine or newspaper advertisement and mounting it 


























Fig. 356. — Moving Picture Set No. 2. 

274 







































Adapted from Muybridge's “ Animals in Motion.' 

“The Circus Horse and Hound.” 


275 






































276 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



upon a piece of cardboard, then preparing two circular 
disks of the same size as the wheels with a series of con¬ 
centric circles inscribed upon them as shown in Fig. 357, 
and pasting these over the printed wheels, you will have 
this optical illusion in a more convenient form to handle 


Fig. 358. — The Revolving Wheels. The inner wheel runs in the opposite 

direction from the outer wheels. 

and in such shape that you can carry it about in your 
pocket to show to all your friends. 

Another interesting optical illusion is 
The Revolving Wheels shown in Fig. 358. By giving 
the book a circular motion and gazing at the center of 


MOVING PICTURES 


277 


the illustration the outer wheels will begin to revolve 
rapidly, just as those of the automobile did, and the inner 
wheel will turn very slowly in the direction opposite to 
that in which the outer wheels run. 

If you own a pair of compasses, you will find this illus¬ 
tration very easy to lay out upon a piece of paper or 
cardboard. The inner circle should be described first, 
then a larger circle upon which to locate the centers of 
the outer wheels should be drawn with the same center, 



Fig. 359. — A Boxing-match. Gaze steadily at the center of the picture, 
draw the book up to your face, and the boys will appear to come together; 
lower and raise the book in succession, and you will see a lively boxing- 


match. 


















27 8 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


and the radius of this larger circle will be the proper 
spacing for the centers of the wheels. 

An illusion of an entirely different kind but no less 
interesting is 

The Boxing-match shown in Fig. 359. The directions 
for looking at this are printed below the illustration. 

You may make cards with pictures of automobiles, 
motor cycles, and airplanes in similar positions, as it is 
easy to find side views of these machines in the adver¬ 
tisements in magazines; then when you have mounted 
these at the proper distance apart, you will have a set of 
moving pictures showing automobile and motor cycle 
smash-ups — which are now common occurrences — and 
airship collisions — which we will probably witness 
within a short time. 



L 



u= 

=, 

I T 


CHAPTER XVII 

A SNOW BATTLESHIP 



Here, boys, is a new idea for a snow fight. A snow 
battleship is, in construction, really a snow fort, with the 
addition of turrets, conning-tower, funnels, mast, and 
fighting-tops (Fig. 360). This extra equipment is easy 
to make and adds greatly to the sport of a snow fight 
A little carpenter work is necessary, but this is simple 
to do, and all sawing and a good portion of the nailing 
may be done indoors. The pieces may then be carried 
to the spot on which you are going to build the ship and 
set in place. 

The central portion of the ship, directly below the con¬ 
ning-tower and known as 

The Central Station, requires a framework such as is 

shown in Fig. 361. Out of any boards you can get 

make two frames similar to that shown in Fig. 362, 

driving three or four nails through each corner and 

clinching their ends. The corners may be braced with 

diagonal strips, but this is not necessary, for the frames 

will be held rigid enough when embedded in snow. Cut 

two boards 3 feet 6 inches long for the cross-pieces E 

279 















































j8o 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


and F, and enough boards of the same length with which 
to roof the top of the framework. 



Fig. 361. — Framework of the Central Station. 


On the site selected for the battleship set up the two 
frames as shown in Fig. 361 ; fasten the cross-pieces 
E and F between them 2 feet above the ground, and 
nail roof board G in place; leave a space of 22 inches 

for the conning-tower, 
then roof the rest of 
the top with the boards 
you have cut for the 
purpose (Fig. 361). 

If there is plenty of 
snow, 

Build the Hull of 

your battleship alike 
on both sides, but if 
Fig. 362. — Make Two Frames like This. there is not enough 






















































Fig. 360. The “ Torpedo-Boats ” Furnish the Only Means of Attack at Close Kange. 





















■ 


























A SNOW BATTLESHIP 


281 


to do this, stand the framework against the fence or wall 
and build only one side. 

Figure 361 shows how the hull should be marked 
out in the snow with the sides converging toward the 
bow and stern. The inside of the bow should be 
about 7 feet from the central station framework, the 
inside of the stern about 4 feet from the framework. 
The illustration shows the stern end of the hull partly 
built up, and by this you will see how the sides should 
taper from a thick base to a thinner wall at the top. 
The inside of the walls should be straight, so as not 
to make the inside space too small, but you will find 
it much easier to build the wall roughly and then 
finish it off with a shovel afterward. 

Set a barrel in the bow for 

A Torpedo Tube (Fig. 363), and when the sides have 
reached a height of 30 inches, set the ends of a 4-foot 
board in them 2 feet forward of the central station (see 
Fig. 363) upon which to build the forward turret; 
at the same height set two or three boards into the 
walls inside of the framework, at / (Fig. 363), for the 
conning-tower platform. Build up the sides of the hull 
to a height of 3 feet 6 inches, and inclose the framework 
of the central station with a 5-inch wall of snow, leav¬ 
ing a passage fore and aft below cross-pieces E and F 
(Fig. 363) wide enough to crawl through. Offset the 
wall above the hull a trifle. 

Cover the top of the central station —- 



282 


Fig. 363. — Two Battleships in Action, showing a Longitudinal Section of One Battleship. 



















































































































A SNOW BATTLESHIP 283 

The Superstructure Deck — with enough snow to hide 
the boards. Build the wall of 

The Conning-tower 12 inches above the superstructure 
deck (Fig. 363), and that of 

The Forward Turret 12 inches above the sides of the 
hull; build 

The Midship Turret on to the side of the ship. The shap¬ 
ing of the conning-tower and turrets can be done with a 
shovel or a shingle. To lessen the 
apparent height of the hull, bank 
snow around the base (Fig. 363). 

The Mast should be about 11 feet 
long and can be made by splicing 
together a couple of curtain- or 
clothes-poles. 

For the Fighting-tops (Fig. 366) 
take two barrel-hoops, fasten a piece 
of 2-by-4 in each (Fig. 364), and 
bore a hole in the center large enough 
for the mast to slip through. Tack 
a 4-inch rim of cardboard around the 
hoops and cover the bottoms with 
the same material (Figs. 365 and 
366). Wire pieces of broom-handle 
to the cross-pieces for 

Rapid-fire Guns (Fig. 365). The 
fighting-tops should be supported upon trestletrees — two 
blocks of wood tied or nailed to the mast (Fig. 366). 



Fig. 364. 

Figs. 364, 365, and 366. 
— Construction of the 
Fighting-tops. 












284 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




Fasten the upper top 3 feet below the masthead, and the 
lower one 2 feet 6 inches below that. 

The Crosstree should be 2 feet long; tie it securely at 
its center to the mast at /(Fig. 363). 

Make a Coach-whip Pennant out of wrapping-paper 
or cloth to fly from the masthead, and to one of the 

maststays , which should be fastened to the 
masthead and to the ends of the crosstree, 
fasten three or four 

Paper Signal Flags (Fig. 363). Pictures 
of these flags, in color, may be found in an 
encyclopedia. 

After rigging up the mast, run it 18 
inches into the wall of the conning-tower 
and tie the ends of the maststays to stakes 
driven into the snow. 

Make a Union Jack for the bow of the 
ship and 

A National Ensign for the stern, and tack 
them upon sticks for staffs. 

The Construction of the Funnels is shown 
in Fig. 367. Unfasten four barrel-hoops and 
make them 12 inches in diameter, and cut twelve sticks 
3 feet 6 inches long. Nail the sticks to the inside face of 
the hoops (Fig. 367), then cover the framework with 
heavy wrapping-paper. Place these funnels upon the 
deck as shown in Fig. 363, and pack enough snow around 
their bases to hold them in position. For 


Fig. 367. 
Framework of 
the Funnels. 

















A SNOW BATTLESHIP 


’85 


Ventilators procure a couple of stovepipe elbows. 

Stovepipe or pieces of fence-posts may be used for your 

Main-battery Guns, two of which should be placed in 
each turret. Cut three 8-inch portholes in the sides 
of the hull for peepholes, and make four depressions 
or recesses, as shown, for the 

Secondary-battery Guns, which may be pieces of broom- 
handle. 

Figure 363 shows the interior of your ship while in 
action. This illustration will suggest 

The Arrangement of Amunition Stores, the idea being to 
keep the main supply of snowballs in baskets and boxes 
in the central station — the magazine — and from these 
to fill the pockets and baskets in the turrets and on 
the deck. 

The Captain of the Ship, whom you must choose before¬ 
hand, will command from the conning-tower (Fig. 363), 
and must appoint the other men to their respective places 
on the forward deck, in the forward turret, the central 
station, and aft. He also selects the boy torpedo boats . 

For a Naval Battle there should be at least two ships 
built with broadsides opposite (Fig. 363). Of course 
you can have a land and naval battle if the enemy 
prefer to build a fort, but there will be more fun with 
battleships. Certain 

Rules must be observed in a snow fight, just as in 
any other boys’ game, and the rules for a naval battle 
will differ somewhat from those of a snow-fort battle. 


286 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


The main object of this game is to inflict as much 
damage as possible upon the enemy’s ship (nothing but 
snowballs being allowed), and to capture and sink the 
“ torpedo boats.” A battleship is sunk if its mast is 
knocked to the ground. If neither ship is badly disabled 
w r hen it is necessary to discontinue action for any reason, 

A White Flag of Truce should be displayed by each 
side, and during this period of truce you can all set to 
work and repair the ships. 

The “ Torpedo Boats ” furnish the only means of attack 
at close range. Each side should have two of these 
— two boys who must each wear a small flag stuck in 
his cap, as shown in Fig. 360. The “ torpedo boats ” 
must not fire upon one another, but if the flag is knocked 
from the hat of one boy and a “ torpedo boat ” of the 
enemy reaches him before he can replace his flag, he is 
considered captured, sunk, and out of the game until his 
side captures an enemy’s “ torpedo boat,” when an ex¬ 
change may be effected. 

Repairs. The paper-covered funnels, the fighting-tops, 
and the signal flags will be damaged the most and will 
have a fine battered appearance. These may easily be 
removed, carried indoors, and repaired in a few minutes. 

In this kind of snow fight 

Good Marksmanship counts for more than strength, and 
the small boy with an accurate aim is as valuable a man 
as his big brother. 





"pi£?V s* 

Ll 


■ 1 -d 


CHAPTER XVIII 


A COASTER AND A 
BOB-SLED 



A home-made sled that is properly put together gen¬ 
erally outlasts the store sled, not because it is more sub¬ 
stantially built, perhaps, but because the boy who has 
spent the necessary time to construct it realizes its worth 
and takes a pride in keeping it in good condition. 

The Coaster shown in Fig. 368 is simple to make, but 
in cutting out the various pieces and putting them together 



you must do the work carefully in order to get the best 
results. 

Lay out the Runners by the pattern shown in Fig. 369. 

This has been marked off into squares, at the ends, to 

aid you in laying out the curves. Measure off the total 

length of the runner upon a i-inch or ij-inch board, 

287 



















































































288 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


then lay out the squares as shown, spacing the lines l 
inch apart, and locate the points where the curves inter¬ 
sect the lines on the pattern; then it will be a simple 


matter to con- 


' r -a - - 

x-:- 

*+- 

j-pN 

±± 


~'S--Suor ha 


. 4*-01 


5; 


Fig. 369. — Pattern for Runners. 

(Lay out the squares as shown 1" x 1" as a guide for 
drawing the curved ends.) 


r-fr 


r 


CUE 


BF 


Ha- 

£ 


t*"y 


B 


■H- 


Seat 


Fb-J---b: 


-A 


Fig. 370. —Plan of Runners and Cross-pieces. 


^ nect the points 
by a continuous 
curved line. 
After one runner 
has been laid out 
and cut from the 
board it can be 
used for a pat¬ 
tern for marking 
out the other 


1 ' r r > 


DOD 


runner. If you can get only pine or other soft wood 
out of which to cut the runners, you can reenforce 
them after cutting them out by driving 16-penny nails, 
or short pieces of iron rod, into holes bored vertically 
8 or 10 inches apart. 

Oiled wooden runners will slide over an icy surface, but 

Shoes either of hoop-iron or half-oval iron are to be 
preferred if you can get them. A blacksmith is the man 
to go to for these. Take the runners to him and 
have him bend the irons to fit and make the screw holes 
so you can screw them in place. The holes along the 
bottom should be countersunk so the screw-heads will 
set flush with the iron (Fig. 376). Five screws for each 
runner will be plenty. 



















































A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED 


289 



Fig. 371. — Con¬ 
nect the Runners 
like This. 


Fig. 372. — Cut 


Cut the three 

Connecting Cross-pieces (A, Figs. 370 and 371) 12 inches 
long, 2 inches wide, and 1^ inches thick and prepare 
the ends of each as shown at A (Fig. 372); then cut 

the six braces B (Figs. 
370 and 371) as shown 
in Fig. 372, to fit the 
mortises in the ends of 
A. Screw the braces 
to the cross-pieces and 
~ . to the runners (Fie:. 

the Cross-pieces v 0 

and Braces like 3 7 I ), then Screw the 

Thls ‘ cross-pieces between 

the runners. They should be ^ inch below the top — 

one 11 inches from the front end, another 7 inches from 

the rear end, and the third halfway between the two. 

Make the Seat in two pieces (a wide board would be 
likely to split) and screw the boards to the cross-pieces. 

There are a number of forms of 

Sled Handles, any one of which you may use. One of 
the simplest kind of handles consists of slots cut through 
the runners as shown in Figs. 369 and 371. The slots 
should be cut as described on page 142 (see Fig. 156). 
To make the handle shown in Fig. 368, cut two pieces 
of broom-handle 28 inches long and four wooden blocks 
2 inches square; nail two of the blocks to each runner, 
then bore f-inch holes through the broom-handle pieces 
and through the blocks and runners, and bolt the handles 







290 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



in place with f-inch carriage-bolts 4 inches long. Drawer- 

pulls, such as are used upon the 
fronts of kitchen pantry drawers, 
are another form of handles which 
may be used. 

Bore a i-inch hole through the 
bow ends of the runners and cut a 
piece of broom-handle to fit in 
them for 

The Foot-bar. If you drive a nail 
through each end of the broom- 
handle, close to the runners, it will 
prevent the bow end of the runners 
from spreading. 

Paint your coaster with at least 
two coats of paint. You may suit 
yourself about the colors, but a good 
combination would be to paint the 
runners yellow or green and the 
seat and handles red; then if you 
want to letter a name upon the seat, 
put it on with black paint. 

Every one of you boys can own 
A Bob-sled, for there is nothing 
difficult about constructing one, 
and the material required is inex- 

Fig. 373.—“Every boy P ens i ve - 
can own a bob-sled.” A bob Consists of two sleds built 






















A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED 


291 


along the lines of a coaster, placed tandem, and con¬ 
nected with a plank long enough to hold three or more 
boys (Figs. 373 and 374). 

The sleds must be built first, and as they are identical 
in construction 

The Four Runners may be cut out by the same pattern 
(Fig. 375). The pattern shows the curved ends marked 



off into squares, just as the pattern for the runners of the 
coaster was shown, and one runner should be laid out 
first, just as described for the other sled, and the others 
marked out from this. Make them out of oak or other 
strong wood, if possible, as the bob-sled’s runners are 
subjected to a great deal of strain. If you must use 
soft wood, do not fail to reenforce them as suggested 
for the runners of the coaster. 

For connecting the Runners and bracing them, cut six 
cleats 1 \ inches thick, 2 inches wide, and 10 inches long 
(. A , Figs. 376 and 378), and buy twelve 2-by-2-inch iron 
angle-braces, such as are shown in Fig. 377, at a hard¬ 
ware store. Nail the runners to the ends of the cleats, 
using three cleats for each sled and spacing them as 
shown in Fig. 378, and then screw the angle-braces to 
the runners and to the cleats (Figs. 376 and 378). Cut 



























292 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


The Sled Seats 22 inches long out of 10-inch boards 
and screw them to the cleats. 

The Seat of the Bob-sled shown in the illustration is a 

r 

2-by-10-inch plank 7 feet 6 inches long and is bolted to 
the bow sled and hinged to the stern sled. Cut the two 



Fig. 375. Fig. 376. 

Fig. 375. — Pattern for Runners. 

Fig. 376. — Cross-section of Sled showing how Runners are Braced. 
Fig. 377. —Iron Braces for bracing the Runners. 

Fig. 378. — Longitudinal Section of Completed Bob-sled. 

P ig. 379. — Blocks for connecting Seat to Front Sled. 

Fig. 380. — Use a f " x 7" Carriage-bolt for a King-bolt. 

Fig. 381. — Block for connecting Seat to Rear Sled. 


blocks B and C (Fig. 379) if inches wide, if inches 
thick, and 10 inches long, and bore af-inch hole through 
the center of one side of each, then bolt block B to the 
board seat of the sled and block C to the under side of 
the plank, and bore the f-inch holes through both the 
board seat and the plank. Buy a f-inch carriage-bolt 7 
inches long (Fig. 380) and drop it into the holes in the 



















































A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED 


2 93 


plank, block, and sled seat, putting a washer between 
the bolt-head and seat, another between blocks B and C 
and a washer and nut upon the lower end. 

The Seat is hinged at the Stern End so the stern sled 
will rise and fall as it runs over uneven ground, inde¬ 
pendent of the bow sled. Cut block D (Figs. 378 
and 381) out of hard wood 2 inches thick, 4 inches wide, 
and 10 inches long, and plane off the top edge as shown. 
Get a pair of 4-by*4-inch wrought-steel butts at a hard¬ 
ware store for the hinges, and bolt them to this block 
and to the plank seat with screws if inches long; then 
spike the stern sled to the block. Connect the bow ends 
of the runners of the stern sled with the bottom of the 
plank seat with 

Check-chains, or ropes, fastened to screw-eyes (Fig. 

378). 

Cut the Steering Foot-bar E (Fig. 378) 20 inches long, 
nail it to the runners of the bow sled, and attach 

The Steering Lines to its ends (Fig. 374). 

For Handle-bars cut the cross-bars F (Fig. 378) 20 
inches long and screw them to the under side of the 
plank seat, and bolt pieces of broom-handle to their ends, 
as shown in Fig. 374. 

The Seat should have a Cushion and an old automobile 
chair, or boat cushion may be remodeled for it, or the 
top of the plank may be padded with excelsior or straw 
and then covered with a piece of oilcloth or carpet (Fig. 
378). The padding should be spread out evenly and be 



294 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


secured to the plank by stretching a piece of cloth over 
it and tacking it to the edges of the plank with cord be¬ 
fore putting on the top covering (see directions for up¬ 
holstering on page 116); then the covering should be 
pulled tight over the padding and tacked to the under 
side of the plank. Tufting the cushion every 4 or 5 
inches, by driving nails through the covering and pad¬ 
ding into the plank, will prevent the padding from shift¬ 
ing and becoming lumpy (Fig. 374). 

Two Coats of Paint applied to all the woodwork will 
give the sled its finishing touches, then, with a snow- 
covered hill or slippery toboggan-slide to coast upon, you 
will be ready to give all of your friends a ride upon your 
new home-made bob. 

Other Winter Sports Equipment. You will find other 
plans for sleds in Chapter XXII of “The Boy Crafts¬ 
man,” in Chapter XVIII of “The Handy Boy”, Chapter 
XXVI of “Carpentry and Mechanics for Boys”, and 
Chapter XV of “Big Book of Boys’ Hobbies”. The 
single-runner coaster in Chapter XVIII of “The Handy 
Boy” will interest you, I know, and you will want to 
build the skatemobile described in Chapter XV of “Big 
Book of Boys’ Hobbies”. It has ice-skate runners. 

If there is no hill for coasting, build a toboggan slide 
like the one in Chapter XXII of “The Boy Craftsman”, 
or the simpler slide in Chapter XXV of “Carpentry 
and Mechanics for Boys”. 

It is natural to turn one’s attention from sleds to 


A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED 


295 


speedier craft. You will find a small skate-sail in 
Chapter XV of “Big Book of Boys’ Hobbies”, larger 
rigs in Chapter XLII of “Outdoor Boy Craftsmen”, 
and an excellent ice-yacht in Chapter XLI of “Outdoor 
Boy Craftsmen” 

Have you ever owned a pair of skis? Try the pair 
of barrel-stave skis in Chapter XV of “Big Book of 
Boys’ Hobbies”. Then shape a pair of standard de¬ 
sign from the plans in Chapter XLII of “Outdoor Boy 
Craftsmen”. 

When you build the snow battleship described in the 
preceding chapter of this book, you will want a peri¬ 
scope like the one in Chapter XXVII of “Carpentry 
and Mechanics for Boys”. For modern snow battles 
you will want the tanks, mortars and shields described 
in Chapter XLI 11 of “Home-Made Games and Game 
Equipment”. 

Modeling in snow is fun. Try a snow totem-pole 
like that in Chapter XV of “Big Book of Boys’ Hobbies”. 

Follow the plans in Chapter XL of “Home-Made 
Games and Game Equipment” for making ice-hockey 
equipment. The snowball target and snowball tenpins 
in the following chapter of the same volume, are less 
strenuous games. 

Have you ever gone fishing in winter? Suggestions 
for tip-up signals, and for a fishing shack are given in 
Chapter XLIII of “Outdoor Boy Craftsmen”. 





part n 


Spring and Summer 
Handicraft 























(mr^yr 




CHAPTER XIX 
MODEL AIRPLANE 
CONSTRUCTION 



If you have never built a model airplane, you cannot 
imagine the thrill that you will experience upon the 
occasion of your first ship's initial flight. True, it 
may not be much of a flight. That would require 
skillful tuning and launching that comes only by 
patient practice. The important thing will be that 
you have built a model that flies. Your reaction 
will be one of renewed confidence in your mechanical 
ability, and increased enthusiasm for model making. 

This chapter has been prepared with the idea of 
getting you off on the right foot, if you are a beginner, 
and of giving you pointers for improving your building 
methods, if you are already a builder. 

We shall first take up 

Methods of Wing Construction. The photographs in 
Fig. 382 show five forms of construction. Wing a is 
of sheet balsa, wings b , c , d and e have built-up balsa 
frames and are to be covered with tissue-paper. Wings 
a, b and c are of extremely light weight. The all¬ 
balsa wing a measures if inches wide and 12 inches 

299 






































300 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


long, and it weighs one twenty-fourth of an ounce. 
The built-up wing b measures 2f inches wide and 
12 inches long, and it weighs one sixty-fourth of an 
ounce. Wing c measures 3J inches wide and 20 inches 
long, and it weighs one-fortieth of an ounce. 

The All-balsa Wing is given camber by cementing two 
cambered ribs across its center, as shown in Fig. 385. 



Fig. 385. — Balsa Wing with Ribs Shaped to give 
Wing Camber, and to Make Slip-Fit over Stick 
Motor-Base. 



Fig. 386. — Wing Framework for Single-Surface Papering. 


The ribs are spaced the right distance apart to make 
a slip-fit over a stick motor-base, or fuselage. The 
wing is held to the motor-base, or fuselage, by means 
of rubber wing-bands. This wing is used on the 
PFG-33 Glider Model described in Chapter XXIX. 

The Built-up Wing Frames b and c in Fig. 382 are of 
the single surface paper type. One has square tips, 
the other has curved tips. The spars and ribs are of 
balsa. The curved tips may be of balsa or bamboo 
(Fig. 386). 

















MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


Soi 


Cutting Balsa into strips ^ or ^ inch ^ wide for spars 
andrribs is easy, provided that you have sheet balsa 
of the correct thickness. Use a safety-razor blade to 
cut with, guiding it by a straight edge, as shown in 
Fig. 387. A carpenter’s steel square is a good straight¬ 
edge for this work. Do not attempt to rip balsa into 
strips with any type of hand-saw. The only successful 
means is a saw of the speed of the circular-saw. 



Fig. 387. — Rip Balsa into Strips with Razor Blade Guided by Straight-Edge. 


Split Bamboo Into Strips with a sharp knife. You can 
cut across the grain with your coping-saw. 

Wing Camber requires cambered ribs. The ribs may 
be shaped either in the cutting or by bending. Figure 
388 shows how you can cut them from a piece of sheet 
balsa. Cut ribs are not as strong as bent ribs, because 
they split easily at the points where the grain crosses 
them. Figure 389 shows how you can bend ribs over 
a block that has been cut of the correct form, and 
Fig. 390 shows how you can shape them in a metal 
jig. The jig is easier to make than the block form. 
Use a piece of tin from a can. Steam the ribs over 


/ 
















302 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


the spout of a teakettle to make them pliable, and 
hold them over the form, or leave them in the jig, 
until the wood has dried. Then they will retain their 
shape. 

The Wing Tips may be shaped in the same way as 
the ribs. Balsa tips may be steamed, then bent over 



Fig. 388. — Ribs Cut with a Camber. 



the side of a^tin can. Bamboo requires heat to make 
it pliable for bending. A much used method for bend¬ 
ing bamboo strips is to hold them over the flame of 
a candle (Fig. 391). Another method is to bend 
them over a lighted electric-light bulb. 

Wing Assembly. It is easier to assemble a wing in 
two sections (Fig. 392a) than to bend the spars at 
































MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


303 


the center to form the dihedral angle wanted. There¬ 
fore, cut the spars one half of the length of the wing 
span, less the tip radius. Cut the ribs of equal length, 
with ends square. To assemble, place the spars upon 
a flat surface, tip the rib ends with cement, press 
them against the spars, and hold them until the cement 
has set. Determine what the rib spacing will be, and 



Fig. 391. — Bending Bamboo over a Candle Flame. 


cut a strip of wood to the correct length for a spacer. 
The spacer strip will make it easy to get equal spacing, 
and it will speed the assembly. Make certain that 
each rib is placed at right angles to the spars, so that 
the wing frame will be symmetrical. The wing-frame 
halves shown in Fig. 392a have four ribs each, which, 
with a center rib, make nine ribs for the completed 
frame. A larger number of ribs will make a stronger 
framework. Notice that the wing of the model shown 







304 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


in the frontispiece has fifteen ribs. When the ribs 
have been assembled, cut, bend and attach the wing tips. 

To join the wing halves, place them upon your bench 
with the tips blocked up as shown in Fig. 392b, so 
that the distance between the bench and the end ribs 
is 1 1 inches. This will give the correct dihedral angle 
for a wing of 24 inches span. But notice that the 
entering wedge of the left tip is blocked up an addi- 


7 - 7 ^ 7 . 



Fig. 392a. — Assemble Wing in Two Half-Sections. 



Fig. 392b. — Block up Wing to form Dihedral Angle, Bevel Inner Ends. 
Cement together and Attach Center Rib. 



Fig. 392c. — Bevel Wing Inner Ends in One of These Ways. 


tional f inch, making the distance between the bench 
and end rib if inches. This is done to give the left 
half of the wing a wash-in , which is necessary to offset 
the torque produced by the propeller, assuming that 
the propeller will be a right-hand propeller, turning 
counter-clockwise (facing the direction of flight). 

Figure 392c shows two methods of trimming the 
spar ends, for joining them. The joint at the left is 
easier to make, the joint at the right is the stronger. 









MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


305 


Coat the trimmed ends with cement, bring them to¬ 
gether, and hold until the cement has set. Then 
cement the center rib between the spars. 

Double-surface Wing Frames are shown in detail in 
photographs d and e of Fig. 382. In frame d the ribs 
consist of upper cambered ribs and lower straight ribs. 
In frame e the ribs are of one piece, of the type shown 



Fig. 393a. — Wing Construction for Double-Surface Covering. 




iOOO~-^ ) 

Fig. 393b. — Ribs for Double-Surface Wing. 

in Fig. 393a. The latter are easier to assemble and 
they make a stronger wing. They are heavier, it is 
true, but weight is reduced by cutting away the center, 
as shown in Fig. 393b, either by making elliptical slots 
or round openings. The round holes can be punched 
with the end of a pencil-eraser ferrule, or with a piece 
of thin tubing filed sharp on one end. A quick way 


























3 o6 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

to cut a series of ribs is to saw them out on a jig-saw. 
Cement together half a dozen pieces of balsa, cut of 
the correct width and length, draw the rib outline 
upon the top piece, and saw the six pieces at one time. 
Sand the edges and then separate the pieces. 

A good test of one’s skill in model building is his 
job of 

Wing Covering. If this is neatly done, the paper 
made tight without wrinkles, and without drawing the 
framework out of shape, it is safe to assume that the 



builder is a good mechanic, and that he can turn out 
a shipshape model of any type that he may tackle. 
Covering a wing is about the hardest step in model 
building. A large proportion of failures can be traced 
to carelessness. Skill in papering will come with care¬ 
ful workmanship and practice. But the success of the 
job depends largely upon the wing framework. The 
frame members must be of sufficient cross-section to 
support the covering material. Tips and opposite por¬ 
tions must be alike, and all parts must be set parallel, 
at right angles, or at such angles as the plan specifies. 

The photographs in Fig. 383 show three types of 
wings. For 






Fig. 382 . — Five Types of Wing 
Construction. 



Fig. 383 . — Three Types of Wings 
Papered. 



Fig. 384. — Five Types of Fuselages. 
























MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


3 ° 7 


A Beginner’s First Job of Papering, the small wing (Fig. 
383a) is best, because it has straight ribs and square 
tips. Figure 382b shows its frame. You can build, 
the frame quickly, so, if the covering is not a success 
you can build another frame and try again. After 
papering that wing, try a wing like Fig. 383b, a single- 



Fig. 395. — Cutting Tissue-Paper for Double-Surface Papering. 

surface job. Then tackle a double-surface wing like 
Fig. 383c. 

Press the Japanese Tissue-paper to be used for covering, 
if it is wrinkled. Use Mother’s iron for pressing it. 

Cut the Tissue-paper with scissors or with a safety- 
razor blade and straight-edge. You will need two 
pieces a trifle larger than one half of the wing frame. 

Banana-oil is the Adhesive to use for attaching the paper. 
If your paint store does not carry it, you can get it 


3°8 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


from any dealer in model-airplane materials. Apply 
it with a small brush to the spars and ribs (Fig. 396). 

Start the Papering at the center rib and work towards 
a tip. After applying the banana-oil, lay the tissue- 
paper in place, pull it taut, and rub it down gently to 



work out wrinkles. When this piece has been applied, 
cover the second half of the frame with the second 
piece of tissue-paper. 

Trim the Projecting Edges of the tissue-paper close to 
the spars and wing-tips with a safety-razor blade. 
Trimming is shown in Fig. 397. Smooth the trimmed 
edges with fine sandpaper. 




MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


309 


Although you may have done a smooth job of paper¬ 
ing, the surface will not be as taut as it should be, 
and you will have to 

Shrink the Tissue-paper over the spout of a teakettle. 
This operation requires careful manipulation, because 
uneven steaming will cause unequal shrinkage, and 
too much steaming will shrink the paper and twist 
the framework out of shape. The amount of steaming 
must be ascertained by experimenting. Steam the 
paper slightly and let it dry, then steam it a little 



Fig. 397. — Trim off Projecting Edge with Safety-Razor Blade. 


more, and again a little more, if necessary, until the 
surface is taut without wrinkles. 

For Double-surface Papering, cut a piece of tissue-paper 
a trifle wider than is necessary to cover the top, leading- 
edge and bottom of the wing frame (Fig. 395). Attach 
the paper to the under side of the wing, first, bring 
it up and over the leading-edge, and cover the top. 
Apply banana-oil to the trailing-edge and the ribs 
(Fig. 396) but not to the leading-edge. When both 
halves of the frame have been covered, trim off the 
projecting edges (Fig. 397), then shrink the paper until 
it is smooth and taut. 







3io 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Fuselage Construction. The flying-stick model air¬ 
plane has the advantage of being stripped of non- 
essentials that add weight without contributing any¬ 
thing to flying efficiency. It flies like an airplane, 
but with the exception of its wing and tail parts, it 
lacks the lines of an airplane. It was devised in the 
early days of pioneering in model-airplane construc¬ 
tion, when balsa wood was unknown to model builders, 



Fig. 398. — A Profile Fuselage of Type Shown in Fig. 384A. 



Fig.~ 399. —iBuild Opposite Frames, one upon the other, to get 

them alike. 


and when the lightest material available for spars and 
ribs was spruce and bamboo. It served the purpose 
of affording boys a satisfactory medium for experiment¬ 
ing. With developments, including all-balsa frame 
construction, reducing weight to a fraction of an 
ounce, it is still a favorite for duration and speed 
contests. There is no better model for a beginner to 
build and fly. The IT-31 Indoor Tractor Model 
described in Chapter XXX is an excellent flying-stick 
model to build. In this day of scale-model reproduc- 










MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


3ii 

tions, it is natural for the model builder to progress 
from flying-stick to fuselage models, then, from fuselage 
models to scale models built from authentic plans of 
existing ships. Photographs in Fig. 384 show five 
types of fuselage models, four of them with views 
before and after papering. These examples cover only 
a few developments, of course. All but one are of 
the lighter weight forms of construction, being stripped 
of parts non-essential to flying efficiency. The excep¬ 
tion (Fig. 384b) is a one-twelfth scale model of the 
Travel-Air Cabin Monoplane. 

The Profile Fuselage shown in Fig. 384a and 384b is 
the easiest type to build. Viewed from the side, it 
presents the same appearance as a full-fuselage model. 
An advantage, of course, is its light weight. The 
model illustrated is 10 inches long, and with its tail 
parts and landing-gear it weighs about one-sixth ounce. 
Another advantage of this blade-shaped fuselage is 
that it serves as a keel, imparting lateral stability. 
Figure 398 shows a detail of the fuselage. Complete 
plans for this fuselage model are given in Chapter IX 
of “Big Book of Boys' Hobbies." Plans for a profile- 
fuselage glider model are given in Chapter XXIX 
of this book. 

A Simple Built-up Fuselage is shown in Fig. 384c and 
384d. The frame is 16 inches long and weighs one- 
eighth ounce before papering. Figure 399 shows a 
detail of the assembled side frames, which are built 


312 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


one upon another to get them alike. With the side 
frames built up, it is a simple matter to join them 
with the cross formers. Full directions for building 
this model are given in Chapter XXXI. 

The Wedge-shaped Fuselage shown in Fig. 3840 is a 
modification of Fig. 384c. It is 19 inches long and 
weighs one twenty-fourth ounce. First, build the top 
frame, cementing the former strips between the lon¬ 
gerons. Build the triangular former frames upon this 



top frame, then shape the lower longeron to meet the 
apexes of the formers, and cement it in place. Set in 
braces from the apex of each former to the upper 
corners of the former next in line. Great accuracy is 
required in setting up the formers, to make a symmet¬ 
rical framework. 

The Oval-shaped Fuselage shown in Fig. 384f and Fig. 
384g is 16 inches long and weighs one-eighth ounce. 
It has six formers, a nose block and a tail block, cut 
out of balsa. Patterns are shown in Fig. 400, ruled 



































































MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


3i3 


off into squares to give you the sizes. Each square 
represents a |-inch square of the full-size formers 
and blocks. This fuselage has eight longerons, and a 
center spine stick or motor-base. The nose block and 
the tail block are cemented to the ends of the spine 
stick. The formers are notched to fit over the stick, 
and their lower portion is cut away to admit the motor 
rubber. Mark off the spacing of the longerons on the 
edge of each former. Then the assembly will be sim¬ 
plified. Drill the nose and tail blocks to admit the 
propeller-shaft and motor-hook. 

Scale-model Fuselages may be built up like that of the 
model in Fig. 384c and Fig. 384b You must have 
scale drawings of the ship to work from. Fig. 384b 
shows a model of the Travel-Air Cabin Monoplane, 
built by reader Donald Ashcraft. Its frame is of wire 
with soldered joints. Plans and instructions for build¬ 
ing three ships are given in Chapter XI of “Big Book 
of Boys’ Hobbies.” In building scale models, you will 
have an excellent opportunity to use your ingenuity 
devising engine cylinders, exhaust pipes, cowlings, 
workable parts, cockpit and cabin fittings, instruments 
and other accessories. 

Propellers. Carving a propeller requires skillful 
whittling. With a block of the correct proportions 
for the model that you are building, it is no trick to 
lay out the blades and hub preparatory to carving. 
Propeller sizes and pitches for models have been pretty 


314 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


well standardized, and you can purchase the size of 
block specified for the model that you intend to build, 
in blank form, sawed out, or completely shaped. Theo¬ 
retically, the pitch of a propeller is the distance that 
the propeller should move forward in one revolution. 
It is dependent, therefore, upon the thickness, width 
and length of the block. Figure 401 shows several 
sizes of propeller blocks, marked off for carving. The 
dimensions in brackets may be substituted for three 



Fig. 401. — Dimensions for Propeller Blocks. 


other sizes of propellers. Directions for laying out 
and carving propellers are given in Chapters XXX 
and XXXI. 

Wire Fittings such as propeller-shafts, thrust-bearings , 
motor-hooks and yokes , S-hooks , cans and wing-clips 
require music wire, sizes Nos. 8 to 14. Use Nos. 8 and 
10 for small and medium-sized models, and Nos. 10, 
12, and 14 for large models. For shaping the wire 
you must have a pair of round-nosed pliers. With 
practice, you will get the knack of handling the pliers 


MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


3i5 


so that you can bend the wire into tiny round eyes 
and nicely shaped loops and hooks. 

A Propeller-shaft should be shaped like detail a of 
Fig. 402, with one end hooked, the other end straight. 
In mounting the propeller, stick the straight end of 
the shaft through the hub, bend it over, coat it with 
cement, and draw the point back into the hub. 


r 


1 3 


3 ' 


©PROPELLER SHAFT 


-Q 




h @ 


/ REAR 
'MOTOR HOOK' 



Ire 


©THRUST BEARINGS© 





1 ,,. 

^ Slip 
CD WING CUPS 



-».4 


TWIN PUSHER 
MOTOR YOKE 



. 3 _"_ 

AXLE 4 AND rzs « --^ 

SHOCK ABSORBER (£)mOTOR S'MOOK V., Cemented^ 




Fig. 402. — Wire Fittings. 


Thrust-washers to fit over the propeller-shaft, between 
the propeller hub and the thrust-bearing, should be of 
thin brass. You can punch them with a paper-punch, 
then pierce the centers with the point of a phonograph 
needle. But you will probably prefer to buy them. 
They are inexpensive. 

A Thrust-bearing is necessary to support the propeller- 
shaft of stick models. Detail b of Fig. 402 shows a 
bearing made of a needle. Select a needle with an 
eye that is almost round. Remove the temper by 










316 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


heating the needle to a red heat, then allowing it to 
cool slowly. Bend the needle, cut off the required 
length, and harden it again by heating, then plunging 
it into cold water. Shaping a wire bearing like that 
in detail c is not difficult when you have learned the 
trick of forming small round eyes in wire with your 
pliers. The bend in the end opposite the eye is pro¬ 
vided for anchorage in the motor base. Coat it with 
cement, then push it into the wood. Bind with thread, 
as shown in the detail of a motor-hook. 



A Rear Motor-hook is shaped like the wire thrust¬ 
bearing, except that the eye is turned to the side. 
See detail d of Fig. 402. 

A Motor-yoke for a twin-pusher stick model is shown 
in detail e. Be careful to get the pair of hooks alike. 
Attach it to the frame, as shown, with cement and a 
whipping of linen thread. 

A Motor S-hook should have long, narrow hooks, with 
the ends almost closed, as shown in detail /. 

A Motor Can is a wire loop support for the unwound 
rubber of a motor. Detail g shows a can before and 
after cementing to the motor-base. The size of the 
can will be determined by the size of motor-base stick 
and the number of rubber strands used in the motor. 







MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


3i7 


Axles and Shock-absorbers can be shaped in one piece, 
as shown in detail h. Cement the upper end to the 
running-gear strut. Slip a bit of motor rubber over 
the axle end to keep the wheel in place. 

Wing Clips (Fig. 402 i ) are used on stick models for 
mounting the wing and sometimes the stabilizer. The 
small loops are formed for cementing to the wing spar, 
the large loops are spaced at the right distance apart 

sCut block to 
j make snug fit 
1 in fuselage end 

BqIsq 

Motor hook 

Washers —- 
Shaft -' 

Fig. 404b. Fig. 404a. 

Tail Block. Nose Block. 




to make slip fits over the motor-base stick, and they 
are made of the right length for adjustment up and 
down to give the wing the required angle of incidence. 

Incidence Blocks are generally used instead of wing • 
clips for mounting a wing upon a fuselage model. 
They are cut out of balsa. The dimensions will vary 
with the model. Figure 408 shows a pair adapted to 
the IF-32 Indoor Duration Model described and illus¬ 
trated in Chapter XXXI. The blocks are cemented 
to the spars. Then the wing is attached with a rubber 
band passed over the wing tips and under the fuselage, 














HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


318 

as is clearly shown in the photograph in the frontispiece 
of this book, or a rubber band is passed under the 
fuselage, and its ends hooked over the ends of the 
incidence blocks. The ends of the incidence blocks in 
detail 403 are notched for this purpose. It is better 
to use the latter method, because it is difficult to loop 
bands over the wing tips, and slide them along to the 
center, without breaking the delicate frames. Wing- 
band rubber should not be more than ^ inch thick. 
Rubber strands from a golf ball are of the right size. 

A thrust-bearing is not needed for a fuselage model 
as the propeller-shaft can be run through the center of 

The Nose Block, as shown in Fig. 404a, a detail of 
the nose block used for the IF-32 model described in 
Chapter XXXI. This nose block is built up of three 
balsa blocks, the inner one of which is cut of the right 
size to make a snug fit in the end of the fuselage. For 
a scale model, you will, of course, shape the nose block 
to the form of the ship’s cowling. 

The rear motor-hook of a fuselage model is com¬ 
monly attached to 

A Tail Block. This is generally made of two pieces 
of balsa, cemented together. The inner block is cut 
to make a snug fit in the fuselage end. The tail block 
is made removable to provide accessibility to the 
rubber-strand motor. 


MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


3i9 


Definitions of some Aeronautical Terms. 

The following are not presented as a complete vocabu¬ 
lary, but to explain many of the terms with which model 
builders should be familiar. With how many are you 
acquainted? 

Aileron. A movable horizontal auxiliary surface of 
an airplane, used to roll, or to maintain balance. 
Usually, a hinged portion of the trailing edge of a wing. 

Airfoil. A flat or curved wing-like part of an airplane, 
whose function it is to obtain surface reaction from the 
air that it passes through. 

Angle of Attack. The angle formed by the chord of 
a wing surface and a line parallel to the direction of 
motion. 

Angle, Dihedral. Generally accepted as the acute 
angle formed by a supporting surface and the horizontal 
plane, as indicated in the front elevation diagram of a 
biplane; but often defined as the obtuse angle formed 
between two supporting planes. 

Angle, Gliding. The angle made to the horizontal by 
the path in flight of a glider, or an airplane with engine 
shut off. An airplane having a gliding angle of 1 to 5 
can glide, in still air, from an altitude of 2,000 feet, a 
distance of 10,000 feet. 

Angle of Incidence. The acute angle between the chord 
of the wing surface and the propeller axis. 

Aspect Ratio. The ratio that the spread of the length 
of a supporting surface bears to its depth or chord. 

Bank. To incline an airplane laterally. In making 
a right bank, the plane is tipped to the right. 

Body. The fuselage. 

Cabane. A wing support at the fuselage. 


320 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Camber. The rise, from its chord, in the curve of an 
airfoil. 

Chord. A straight line joining the leading-edge and 
and trailing-edge of a wing or other airfoil. 

Cockpit. An open cabin in the fuselage with seat for 
pilot or passengers. 

Control, Lateral. Ailerons and their operating parts. 

Control, Longitudinal. Elevators and their operating 
parts. 

Controls. Parts by which the pilot controls the speed 
and direction of flight of an airplane. 

Dive. A steep descent with or without power. 

Dope. A light-weight waterproof liquid, colorless or 
colored, used for filling airplane fabric to make it air¬ 
tight, waterproof, and taut. 

Drift Wires. Wires provided to prevent wings from 
folding back. 

Duration or Endurance. The maximum time that an 
aircraft remains in the air in a flight. 

Elevator. A horizontal surface or surfaces, usually 
hinged to stabilizer, by means of which an airplane is 
steered upward or downward. 

Empennage. Tail surfaces of an airplane. 

Entering-Edge. Same as Leading-edge. 

Fabric. Generally Irish linen or mercerized cotton, 
and known as airplane cloth. It is filled, shrunk and 
finished with about four coats of airplane dope and two 
coats of varnish. 

Fin. A vertical fixed surface in the tail of an airplane 
used as a rudder, and to give directional stability. 

Float. A water-tight compartment attached to an 
airplane, to provide buoyancy in case a landing is made 
upon water. 


MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


321 


€ LEVATOR 
MORN' 


CONTROL WIRES 


'-RUDDER 

STABILIZER 



trai ling-edge 

AILERONS 


HINGE 
PULLEY} 

RAKE- 

- 

-WINDOW 

SWEEP BACK COWLING 

PROPELLER 


<TJOSE RIB ^SPARS 
WIRE BRACES 

LEADING-EDGE' 


SPINNER 


PLAN 


DIHEDRAL 
ANGLE¬ 


WING SKID 



GAP 


LANDING WHEEL- 

FRONT ELEVATION 


SHOCK . f-n 

ABSORBER V 

OVERHANG^ 


PROPELLER. WING 

/ SECTION\ /HORN 
* /-WINDSHIELD 

rnw/i C0NT R QL STICK 

(COWLINGAVY -—COCKPIT 


SPINNER. 


iliuuCY 


^ (ENGINE 


£E4r;; FUSELAGE----- 
---- 


FIN 


LANDING GEAR 


STAGGER; 
WIRES 

STRUT iCl)y 


RUDDER CONTROL 
-RUDDER BAR 

-WING SKID El EVATOR CONTROL' 

SIDE ELEVATION 


^ELEVATOR 

Stabilizer 

TAIL WHEEL 


Structural Parts of an Airplane. 







































































































3 22 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Former. A member of a cross frame fitted between 
the longerons of the fuselage. 

Fuselage. The body of an airplane, housing the motor, 
cockpits or cabins, and equipment, and supporting the 
wings, tail, and landing gear. 

Gap. The vertical distance between the chords of 
the wings of a biplane. 

Glider. An airplane without power plant. 

Hangar. A shelter for aircraft. 

Horn. A short lever on a surface, to which control 
wire is attached. 

Landing Gear. The substructure which supports an 
airplane when landing. 

Leading-Edge. The front edge of a wing or other air¬ 
foil, or a propeller. Also known as the “entering-edge.” 

Longeron. An horizontal member of the fuselage 
framework. 

Nacelle. An enclosure for passengers, or for a power 
plant. 

Pancake. To descend steeply with wings at a large 
angle of attack. 

Pitch of a Propeller. The distance forward that a 
propeller would travel in one revolution, if it turned as 
a bolt turns in a nut, without slip. 

Pusher. An airplane with a propeller or propellers in 
the rear of the wing or wings. 

Ribs. The cross-members of a wing, or other airfoil 
framework, of the correct shape to produce the required 
cross-section. 

Rudder. A vertical airfoil used for steering. 

Rudder Bar. The foot bar to which rudder control 
wires are attached. 


i 


MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


323 



Junior Aeronautics. 

Inspired by the First Flight of the Wright Brothers. 





































324 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Skid. The rear landing point of an airplane, attached 
to the under side of the tail. 

Skidding. Sliding sideways in flight, usually as a 
result of insufficient banking at a turn. 

Slip. Loss, a result of the give of the air. The differ¬ 
ence between the actual and theoretical distance 
traveled by propeller in one revolution. 

Span. The distance from tip to tip of a wing or other 
horizontal airfoil. 

Spar. The horizontal members of the wing framework. 

Stabilizer. A fixed airfoil provided to lessen the pitch¬ 
ing motion of an airplane. 

Stagger. The distance that the leading-edge of the 
upper wing projects over the leading-edge of the lower 
wing. 

Stall. A stand-still condition, when an airplane has 
lost the air speed necessary for support. 

Strut. An upright between planes, and one of the up¬ 
rights or diagonal members of a landing gear. 

Sweepback. The angle in a wing when its horizontal 
center-line breaks at the center, and slants back. Also, 
sometimes formed on the trailing-edge of a propeller, 
by cutting away the blades, so as to make them slant 
in from the tips to the hub. 

Tail, or Empennage. The rear end of a plane, including 
the stabilizer, elevator, rudder, and fin. 

Tail Wheel. A landing wheel attached to the under 
side of the tail, in place of a skid. 

Taxi. To run over the ground, before taking off and 
after landing. 

Torque. A twist, or tendency to twist, produced by 
the revolving propeller. 


MODEL AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION 


325 


Tractor. An airplane with a propeller or propellers in 
front of the wing or wings. 

Trailing-Edge. The after edge of a wing, or other air¬ 
foil, or a propeller. 

Warp. To change the form of , a wing by twisting it. 

Wash-In. An increase in the angle of incidence of 
a wing at or near the tip. 

Wing. A main supporting airfoil of an airplane. 

Zoom. To climb at a steep angle, to gain altitude 
rapidly. 

The rules that have been used successfully in national 
tournaments are recommended for local contests. 
Through the courtesy of the Playground and Recrea¬ 
tion Association of America, the following is quoted 
from the 


RULES AND REGULATIONS 

FOR THE 

NATIONAL PLAYGROUND MINIATURE 
AIRCRAFT TOURNAMENT 

Each community from which competitors may desire to enter 
the National Tournament must have a committee to administer 
the local competitions and to certify to the local records. This 
committee should include the superintendent or director of the 
playgrounds of the city, or, where the playgrounds are admin¬ 
istered under more than a single auspices, the superintendent or 
director of each system; the president or one of the vice pres¬ 
idents of the Chamber of Commerce or similar organization; 
editors of local newspapers; a member of the Board of Education, 
or superintendent of schools; the president or vice president of the 
local aeronautic society or similar official of a local flying field or 
airport. Others locally desirable may, of course, be added. 


3 2 6 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


The National Committee will furnish official blanks to local 
committees upon which records, qualifications of contestants, 
and other facts are to be reported. The facts called for must be 
authoritatively certified by the committee responsible for the 
local tournament before contestants are qualified to compete in 
the national tournament. Information as to methods of regis¬ 
tering competitors, trial flights, previous inspection of planes, 
methods of running off and judging the events, may be secured 
from the Playground and Recreation Association of America, 
315 Fourth Avenue, New York City. 

Boys and girls up to, but not including twenty-one years of 
age, are eligible to compete in the tournament. There are two 
classes: 

1. Junior—those who have not yet attained the sixteenth birthday. 

2. Senior—those who are past the sixteenth birthday and who have 

not yet attained the twenty-first birthday. 

EVENTS 

There will be 7 events, 3 indoor and 4 outdoor, for each class 
(Junior and Senior). (Number of events varies from year to year.) 

Committees arranging local tournaments are urged to include 
all events listed in the national tournament. Of course, other 
events may be added locally, but local champions will have a 
much better chance for success in the national tournament, if they 
have had practice in their local tournaments in events scheduled 
for the national tournament. 

A complete list of events will be found in Chapter VI 
of “Big Book of Boys’ Hobbies.” 


st.s 



It has always been instinctive for a boy to want to 
get his feet off the ground—climbing, jumping, swing¬ 
ing, building tree huts, and, finally, flying. But since 
piloting a plane is not to be classed as a boy’s hobby, 
and since such stunts as are pictured in Mr. Bradley’s 
cartoon upon page 326 are practical only as flights of 
the imagination, it is up to you to devise your own 
means of air travel. 

The author’s ambition in this direction led him 
from flying-rings to a home-made aerial scooter. This 
consisted of a seat suspended from a tackle block that 
ran along a rope cable. The upper end of the cable 
was hitched to the rafters over the barn loft. The 
lower end was fastened to the house several feet above 
the basement windows. Flight started from the loft. 
We “flew” out through the barn window, “nosed- 
down” across the yard, and made a two-point landing 
with feet thrust against bed-springs placed against the 
house^for shock absorbers. 

The good features of this home-made airship have 

been used in plans in this chapter, and they combine 

327 










































328 


Fig. 405.—The Auto-airship in Flight 































































A BOY’S AUTO-AIRSHIP 


3 2 9 


safety with many of the thrills of flying. As you will 
see by looking at Figs. 405 and 406, the rope cable along 
which the airship flies is hung low enough to keep the 



Fig. 406. — Making a Landing. 


course of the young aviator always close to the surface 
of good old Mother Earth. 

For the Framework of the Balloon (Fig. 407), procure 
eight barrel hoops and three i-by-2-inch strips 12 or 14 
feet long, and purchase at a hardware store two wooden 
single blocks (the size for |-inch rope, with hooks and beck - 
els, Fig. 411), 3 pounds of No. 12 steel wire, and \ pound 
of small copper staples (Fig. 408). 

From the i-by-2-inch strips cut A , B , C , and D 5 feet 
8 inches long, and crosspieces E , F, G, H\ /, and J of 
the lengths shown in the top view of the framework (Fig. 






















33° 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY ROYS 


409). Remove the beckets from the single blocks, un 
screwing the bolts which hold them in the iron straps 
(Fig. 411), and bore a hole, the size of those in the straps, 
through strips C and D, 1 \ inches from each end. Then 



Fig. 411. Fig. 410. Fig. 409. 

Figs. 407 and 408. — Side and End Views of Framework of Balloon. 

Figs. 409 and 410. — Top and End Views showing Framework before Ribs 
and Rib-bands are attached. 

Fig. 411. —Wooden Single Block. 

bolt C and D to the becket straps (Figs. 409 and 410), 
using 4-inch bolts. Nail the crosspieces to C and D , 
spacing them as shown in Fig. 409 ; then nail strips A 
and B to the crosspieces, and screw their ends to the 
wooden shells of the blocks (Fig. 410). Two nails should 
be used at each point of nailing, to insure a strong frame¬ 
work. 

The Barrel Hoop Ribs are fastened to the ends of the 
crosspieces (Fig. 407). Remove the nails which hold 
the hoops together, and turn in the ends until the inside 





























































A BOY’S AUTO-AIRSHIP 


33i 


diameters equal the length of the crosspieces, then drive 
several nails through the ends and clinch them on the 
inner side of the hoops. To build out the bow and stern 
of the framework (Fig. 407), cut the two remaining hoops 
in halves, cross a pair of these halves at right angles for 
each end, and fasten their centers together ; then nail the 
ends to the end ribs and drive in a nail at the points 
where the hoops cross strips A , B, C, and D (Fig. 408). 
Clinch all nails wherever it is possible to do so. 

Cut Twelve Rib-bands from the No. 12 wire, fasten one 
across the bottoms of the ribs, another across the tops 
(Fig. 407), and space the remaining ten between them 
at equal distances. The intermediate rib-bands are shown 
in Fig. 408, but have been omitted in Fig. 407 to make 
that illustration clearer. Fasten the rib-bands to the ribs 
with staples (Fig. 408). 

Before inclosing the framework, cut twelve 6-foot 
lengths of heavy cord for 

Stays, and tie one to each rib just above the crosspiece 
(Fig. 407); also run a cord through the blocks, so that 
when you are ready to slip the balloon on to its rope 
cable, you can tie the end of the cord to the rope and, 
by means of it, pull the rope through the wheels of the 
blocks. 

You will require \\ yards of cloth for 

The Balloon Envelope. A black, brown, or gray cam- 
brie or muslin will make the most durable covering, but 
any cloth you can get, such as old sheets, can be used. 


33 2 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Put the cloth on lengthwise of the framework in two 
strips, stretch it as smooth as possible, and fasten it to 
the ribs with tacks and to the rib-bands with thread. 
On top of the envelope sew a band of white cloth around 
the center of the balloon (Fig. 405). 

The Construction of the Car requires but little explana¬ 
tion, as Figs. 412 to 418 show the details clearly. Pro- 



Fig. 412. — The Car. 

Fig. 413. — First Step in making over a Box for a Car. 

Fig. 414. — Gate for Front of Car. 

Figs. 415 to 418. — Details of Propeller. 

cure a box about 16 inches deep, 20 inches wide, and 
3 feet long; remove the bottom and one end, nail the 
bottom boards crosswise to form the car seat (Fig. 413), 
and saw off the projecting ends. Reenforce the sides 
of the box with vertical boards (Fig. 412). Cut the 
first two boards long enough to support the pitched foot- 




































































A BOY’S AUTO-AIRSHIP 


333 


board, which should be fastened 14 inches below the 
seat, and make the first board on each side project 1 inch 
beyond the box (Fig. 412) to form a rabbet for the gate 
to set in. Nail cleats K and L to the side boards, where 
shown, and fasten the foot-board upon them. Fit the 
seat-riser between the seat and foot-board, make a seat 
back as shown in Figs. 412 and 415, and attach a pair of 
wagon wheels to the sides. 

Fasten the gate boards together with three battens, 
making the top and bottom battens long enough to pro¬ 
ject inches on each side; drive a 20-penny (4-inch) 
nail through each end of the projecting battens, and 
screw four screw-eyes into the front of the car for 
sockets, in which to set them (Figs. 412 and 414). 

Bore eight f-inch holes through each side of the car, 
ij inches below the top, through which to tie the stays 
(Fig. 412); then cut two 6-foot lengths of J-inch rope 
for the suspension stays, and tie the ends of one through 
the two front holes, and the ends of the other through 
the two rear holes (Fig. 412). 

The Propeller (Figs. 415 to 418) requires a hub strip 
i-by-i-by-10 inches in size, with a 31-inch slot in each 
end (Fig. 417). and two blades similar to Fig. 418. 
Notice that the slots are cut diagonally across the ends 
of the hub strip, and that one is at right angles to the 
other. Bore a J-inch hole through the center of one 
side of the hub strip (Fig. 417), then fasten the blades 
in the slots. Cut a stick 11 inches long for the propeller 


334 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


shaft (Fig. 415), fasten the propeller to one end, and in¬ 
sert the other end in a hole bored through the back of 
the car; nail it securely in position, and brace it with a 
wooden bracket. 

If you stretch the cable for your airship upon a hilh 
side, you will require 

A Starting Platform just high enough to lift the car 
off the ground, but if the ground is level, or nearly so 
(Fig. 405), it will be necessary to construct a platform 
8 feet or so above the surface to give the rope cable 
sufficient pitch. 

This platform is built between two trees, 3 or 4 feet 
apart, and is supported by four brackets. Each bracket 
consists of three pieces of 2-by-4, as you will see by look¬ 
ing at Fig. 405. Cut the piece marked M 4 feet long, 
and N and O 2 feet 6 inches long; miter the lower ends 
of N and O , and let their upper ends into M. Nail 
the pieces together and spike two brackets to each tree; 
then spike crosspieces P and Q across the trees, directly 
under top piece M of the brackets, as additional sup¬ 
ports. Cut the railing uprights R, S, and T 5 feet 
long, mortise the upper ends for the gate (U) to slide 
through, and spike them to the brackets. Brace the 
lower ends with the diagonal pieces V and W, and their 
upper ends with boards X and Y. Cut the gate (U) 
long enough to reach from R to T, insert a short stick 
in a hole bored near one end, for a handle, and nail a 
strip across the other end to prevent it from pulling 


A BOY’S AUTO-AIRSHIP 


335 


through the mortise in upright R. Nail the platform 
boards in place, and fasten 

A Push-off Platform (Z) between the trees, 18 inches 
above the main platform, for the car. 

Build a ladder from the ground to the main platform. 

The Rope Cable. Purchase f-inch Manila rope for the 
cable, and get whatever length you will require in one 
piece. Fasten one end of this rope to a tree a few feet 
in back of the upper station platform (Fig. 405), then 
run it through the single blocks in the balloon frame¬ 
work, and while you pull on the rope to take up as 
much of the slack as possible, have some one tie the 
lower end to the center of a rope stretched between two 
trees at the lower end of the airship’s course (Fig. 406). 
If there doesn’t happen to be a tree directly in back of 
the upper station, you can attach that end of the rope 
between two trees, in the same way that, you fastened the 
lower end. Tie the lower end of the rope low enough 
so the car will run upon the ground for a few feet, 
and slow up, before reaching the end. Throw some 
loose earth over the point of landing, and from there as 
far as the end of the rope, to retard the speed of the 
wheels. 

To attach the Car, hitch the loops of the suspension 
stays over the block hooks (Fig. 405), and tie the ends 
of the intermediate stays through the holes in the sides 
of the car. 

To pull back the Airship to the Starting Platform, 


33& 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


attach a strong cord to the hook in the stern block, run 
it through a small pulley attached to the upper end of 
the cable (Fig. 405), and bring it down below the 
platform to a windlass constructed as shown in the 
illustration. 

If several of you boys club together in building an 
auto-airship, you will have to “ toss up ” to see who shall 
have the first ride ; then, after all of the “ directors ” and 
workmen have ridden, you will want your friends to 
enjoy a trip. By charging a small fare you can make 
the airship pay back, in a short time, what you have 
expended for material. 



When the last day of school arrives, isn’t it with a 
sense of relief that you pack up your books, carry them 
home, and throw them on to a high shelf, or into your 
bedroom closet — somewhere out of sight ? And isn’t it 
hard to realize that you need not think of lessons again 
for more than two months, and that you are free to do 
whatever you choose for the balance of the summer days ? 
It used to be that way when the author was a boy, and 
conditions probably haven’t changed much in this regard. 

Some of you boys will experience the joys of camping 
out for the first time this summer, — the trip which 
always remains freshest in one’s memory, as it generally 
is so full of amusing incidents, — and those of you who 
have camped out before will probably not miss an oppor¬ 
tunity to do so again this year; but, if it is not possible 
for you to go away from town, there is no reason why you 
cannot camp out near home, in some vacant lot, or in 
your back yard, or on the porch or roof. 

A Tent is one of the first parts of the camping equip¬ 
ment to look after. The prices of tents vary in different 

337 



































338 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

locations, but you can get an 8 foot by io foot “ A ” tent 
(Fig. 419) of io-ounce duck, complete with poles and 
stakes, in New York, Chicago, Denver, or San Francisco, 
for about $7, and a wall tent of the same size (see photo- 



Fig. 419. — An “A” Tent. 


graph opposite page 340) for about $9, while a fly will 
cost about one half as much as the tent. 

If you wish to make a tent yourself, you will not find 
the work difficult, and you will save considerable on the 
cost. The sewing together of the strips of canvas is 
the hardest part of the work for a boy; probably your 
mother will be willing to do this for you on her sewing- 
machine. Eight-ounce duck, 29 inches wide, retails at 
about 15 cents a yard, and the io-ounce weight, which 
is better for the purpose, at about 18 cents a yard. 

For making an “ A ” Tent of the size shown upon the 
diagram (Fig. 420), you will require 30 yards of material. 
The diagram shows the completed tent as it would appear 









CAMPING EQUIPMENT 


339 


when spread out flat upon the ground, and also the di¬ 
mensions for cutting the different lengths of canvas. You 
will see that strips A , B , C, and D are of equal length, 
and that strips E> G, J y and K are of one shape and 
size, as are also the tri¬ 
angular pieces F t H , /, 
and L and strips nd N. 

Lap each strip a full i inch 
over the edge of the ad¬ 
joining pieces, as indicated 
by the dotted lines on the 
diagram, and sew each 
seam near the edges with 
a double row of stitching. 

After all of the pieces 
have been cut and sewed 
together, turn back the 
outside edges i inch, as 
indicated by dotted lines, 
to finish them off and at the same time, reenforce them. 
Buy one dozen i-inch iron harness rings for the ridge and 
guy-rope eyelets, set two in the canvas at the ends of the 
ridge, and one at the end of each of the side seams, and 
buttonhole stitch them in place. The canvas should be 
reenforced with a square patch in the places where the 
eyelets are to be set in in the ridge. Sew canvas loops 
and straps to the flaps, in the locations indicated, and 
tie the guy-ropes through the eyelets provided for them. 



“A” Tent, 7 feet by 9 feet and 
5 inches. 













34° 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Figures 421 to 423 show the details for 
The Ridge-pole and Uprights. These should be cut out 
of pieces if inches square, which may be ripped out of a 
piece of 2-by~4. Cut the uprights about 5 feet 10 inches 
long, which will allow for setting the ends 3 inches into 
the ground, and the ridge-pole 9 feet 5 inches long. 
Round off the top of the ridge-pole as in Fig. 423. Drive 
a piece of f-inch or -1-inch iron rod into one end of each 

upright (Fig. 422), and bore 
two holes, inch larger 
than the rods, through the 
ridge-pole in the proper 
positions for the rods to fit 
in (Fig. 421). A piece of 
tin bent around the ends 
of the pole, as in Fig. 423, 
will prevent the rods from 
splitting them. 

Fourteen Tent Stakes will 
be required, and these 
should be prepared at home, 
to save delay in pitching the tent after you reach your 
camping ground. 

Pitch your Tent upon a level spot, close to your water 
supply if possible, and dig a little trench around it to 
catch the surface rain-water, which would otherwise run 
into the tent; make a couple of outlets from the trench, 
on the low side, so the water will drain away. Do this 



Fig. 421. 


Fig. 422. 


Fig. 421. —Connection of Ridge-pole 
with Upright. 

Fig. 422. — End of Upright. 

Fig. 423. — End of Ridge-pole. 

























A Wall Tent, Eight Feet by Ten Feet, with Fly. 



Flapjacks for Two 






CAMPING EQUIPMENT 


34i 


trenching as soon as you have pitched your tent; other¬ 
wise, you may be caught unprepared for a storm, and it 
is unpleasant to be compelled to do the work during a 
drenching rain. 

A Tent Ground-cloth, which should be of waterproof 
material, should be laid upon the ground and lapped 
up around the sides of the tent; this will prevent 
the dampness of the ground from penetrating your 
bedding. 

If there are spruce or pine trees in the vicinity of your 
camp, be sure 

To make a Mattress upon which to spread your blan¬ 
kets. Cut a number of boughs, and lop off enough of 
the tips of the branches to form a good-sized pile of twigs. 
Then carry these to your tent and, beginning at the 
proper point for the head of your bed, place a row of 
the twigs upon the ground-cloth with the tips toward the 
back of the tent. Next, place another layer of the twigs 
over these, and lap the tips over the butt ends of the first 
row, and continue to lay row after row in this manner, 
which is just the way in which the shingles on a roof 
are lapped, until you have reached the foot of the bed. 
The degree of softness of this mattress will depend en¬ 
tirely upon the care with which the twigs are placed and 
how well the butt ends are concealed by the tips. To 
avoid hard lumps, use only the slender portions of the 
branches. Spread your blanket upon the mattress, and 
your bed will be complete. 


342 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


If the nights are cold in the region in which you intend 
to camp, take along 

A Sleeping-bag. By folding over your blanket along 
the center, lengthwise, and then sewing it along the side 
and across the bottom, a very satisfactory bag may be 
made. The author has found such a bag very comfort¬ 
able, and, when camping in the mountains where the 
temperature at night drops below “freezing,” has used 
two of these bags, slipping one inside of the other, to give 
double warmth. With the top of the bag pulled snugly 
around your neck, there is no possibility for the cold air 
to reach you. The bag can be turned inside out every 
morning and aired. With covers in common, you are 
likely to awaken some night, feeling cold, to find that 
one of the other boys has been over-generous to himself 
with the clothes, unless you know how to “cling” to 
your portion; but with a sleeping-bag you are safe from 
disturbance. 

Other Equipment. No two boys will carry the same 
equipment with them when going camping, and every 
boy will find after he has reached camp that he has taken 
along lots of needless things and left behind many articles 
which would add greatly to his comforts ; but this is some¬ 
thing which most campers experience, and it is doubtful if 
ever a man carries exactly the same outfit on two trips, for 
the reason that he is continually finding some way wherein 
he can make it more compact and complete. The great¬ 
est trouble lies generally in taking along too much. The 


CAMPING EQUIPMENT 


343 


location of your camp will determine to a great extent 
what special articles should be included in the outfit, and 
an experienced camper, familiar with that part of the 
country, will be a good one to consult about your require¬ 
ments. 

A frying-pan, kettle, saucepan, baking pan, coffee-pot, 
wash-basin, two water pails, tin plates and cups, spoons, 
knives and forks, and a can-opener will be required for 
the kitchen outfit; and towels, rags, soap, rope and twine, 
matches, a lantern and a can of kerosene oil, candles, an 
ax, a sharpening stone, hammer, saw and nails, will just 
about complete the general equipment. It is a good plan 
to take several sizes of nails,—8-penny, io-penny, 16- 
penny, and 20-penny, — for there will probably be things 
which you will wish to make while in camp. 

An Electric Flash Lamp is a very handy article to have 
for locating things in and about the tent, when you do 
not care to bother with lighting your lantern. 

Packing. Wrap your matches in paraffine paper, and 
then place them in a tin can to protect them from damp¬ 
ness ; and put all the other small articles of your equipment 
in small bags provided with draw strings; salt and flour 
sacks may be fixed for the purpose. Pack the sacks, and 
all other things belonging to the general equipment 
which are not too bulky, in grocery boxes. When you 
get to camp, you will find the boxes handy for keeping 
things in, and those not required for this purpose will 
make good stools and will be good for setting things on. 


344 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

A Safety Match-box, a strong jack-knife, and fishing- 
tackle should be made a part of the personal equipment 
of each boy of the camping party, and if each has 

A Duffle Box (Fig. 424) in which to carry his outfit, he 
will save a general mix-up of things, possible loss of 

small articles, and result¬ 
ing unpleasantness with 
the other fellow whom he 
may think is to blame. 

A grocery box will serve 
the purpose, but this 
should be gone over care¬ 
fully, and all boards whose 
nails show signs of loosen¬ 
ing should have additional 
nails driven into them. 
Batten together the cover 
boards on the inside, 
them to the box with strap- 
hinges, and fasten a hasp to the front so the box may be 
padlocked for transporting, and whenever you are away 
from camp. Handles may be made out of pieces of a 
strap, or several thicknesses of cloth tape, and be secured 
to the box with screws (Fig. 425). By fastening a piece 
of canvas or heavy cloth to the inside of the cover, 
over the battens (Fig. 426), tacking it along the bottom 
edge, and making buttonholes in the side and upper 
edges to button over large-head tacks, the space be- 




Fig. 424. 

Fig. 424. — Camp Duffle Box. 

Fig. 425. — Strap Handle. 

Fig. 426. — Pocket on Inside of Cover. 















CAMPING EQUIPMENT 345 

tween the battens will serve as a pocket for writing 
materials. 

If any boy in your party has had experience in camp 
cooking, leave to him the matter of purchasing 

Food Supplies. But if you are all “ green ” at it, you 
had better get your mothers to help you make out your 
grocery list. Each mother will have a pretty fair idea 
of the size of her son’s appetite, and it ought to be an 
easy matter for her to estimate on the proper quantities 
and varieties of supplies to do him. But she should be 
warned, beforehand, to allow for an increased appetite; 
also to select such things as can easily be prepared. 
Then compare all the lists and compile one complete list 
from them. 

Fish and game may possibly be secured while in camp, 
but it is best not to count upon this as a certainty, and 
to take along plenty of everything, unless you know that 
your camp will be within easy reach of supplies. 

If you are to be Cook, find out how to make flapjacks, gra¬ 
ham muffins, biscuits, and johnny-cake, and watch your 
mother to see how she prepares breakfast cereals, coffee, 
and tea; also try your hand at cooking these things 
while at home, instead of waiting until you get into camp 
and starving your companions, as well as yourself, during 
the experimental period. It will save lots of unpleasant¬ 
ness all around. 

The trouble met with in 

Making an Open Fire for cooking generally arises from 


346 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


getting it too large, so that it is all blaze and smoke. 
What is necessary is a small fire of hot coals. If you 
have watched an experienced camper prepare his fire, 
you have noticed that he confines it to a small place. 

The Backwoodsman’s Scheme of building his fire between 
two logs placed alongside of each other, about 6 inches 
apart at one end and 12 inches apart at the other end (Fig. 



Fig. 427.—The Backwoodsman’s Camp Fireplace. 


427), is very satisfactory for a fireplace, as the fire is con¬ 
fined between the logs, and, by keeping the wide opening 
turned toward the wind, a splendid draft is obtained. 

The logs should be green, and, to prevent the fire from 
getting under them, it is well to plaster mud against their 
inner faces. Two forked branches are driven into the 
ground, one at each end of the fireplace, and a horizontal 
pole, known as a lug pole , rests in the forks and supports 
the pothooks. 
























CAMPING EQUIPMENT 


347 




The Pothooks may be made from forked sticks cut to 
the proper length, with nails driven into them near the 
lower ends (Fig. 428), or out of pieces of heavy wire bent 
into hooks at one end and loops at the other end (Fig. 
429), the loops being made large enough so they will slide 
back and forth on the lug pole. 

Both the stick and wire pothooks 
may be made short enough to 
accommodate the largest pot you 
have, and then lengthened to suit 
the small utensils by means of 
S-shaped extension hooks bent out 
of wire (Fig. 430). A piece of tin 
from an empty tin can may be 
tacked across the logs for the 
coffee-pot and for handleless uten¬ 
sils which are too small for the 
logs to support. 

Such a fireplace as the above FlG * 43 °‘ 
can be built anywhere, even in a back yard, with per¬ 
fect safety, and any boy can use his ingenuity to rig up 
his pothooks and supports out of plain sticks if he can¬ 
not find suitable branches for the purpose. 

A Sheet-iron Camp Stove, such as is shown in the pho¬ 
tograph opposite page 340, is very commonly used by 
campers, and is handier and easier to cook on than the 
open fire. A stove of the size shown in the illustration 
can usually be bought complete with stovepipe for $1.50. 


Fig. 429. 

1 

/Fig. 430. 


Fig. 428. 

Fig. 428. —Stick Pothook. 
Fig. 429. — Wire Pothook. 

Extension Hook. 












34« 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


A Dutch Oven is a good substitute for the camp stove, 
and answers almost every purpose. It consists of a 
shallow iron pan or kettle, supported upon iron legs and 
furnished with a tighc-fitting cover. It is set in a bed 
of red-hot coals, then after the biscuits, muffins, beans, 
meat, fish, or other food which is to be baked, stewed, or 
roasted is placed in the pan, the cover is fitted on and 
hot coals are heaped up at the sides and over the top. A 
medium-sized oven will cost $1.00. 

A Camp Fireless Cooker is another handy contrivance, 
inasmuch as food can be prepared in it while you are 
away from camp, so that it will be ready to eat imme¬ 
diately upon your return at night tired and hungry. A 
cooker may be constructed out of a grocery box; and 
hay or dried leaves may be used for packing. Place 
this insulation under, around and over the boiling 
kettle. By setting the cooker box into a hole in the 
ground, and throwing earth over the cover after placing 
the food within, the insulation will be more nearly perfect. 

To build a Fire properly, whittle a few shavings and 
cut a number of small sticks, — some to about the size 
of a lead-pencil and others a little larger, — spread the 
shavings along the bottom of the fireplace, and upon 
these pile up the sticks, loosely and crisscrossed, so as to 
allow plenty of openings for draft. Set fire to the shav¬ 
ings, and as soon as the sticks have kindled, add a few 
larger pieces of wood to the pile; but be careful not to 
put on too many pieces before the fire has made a good 


CAMPING EQUIPMENT 


349 


start, or you will choke out the flame. A good fire is 
obtained only by careful building, and requires continual 
attention to be satisfactory for camp cooking. 

Always keep a good supply of wood at hand, some 
place under cover where it will be protected from rain 
and dew, so you will never be without dry wood with 
which to kindle your fire. 

Camp Furniture. A table and a few seats add to the 
comforts of camp life, and the making of these furnishes 
interesting occupation for days when you wish to stay 
around camp. The three tools 
mentioned among the camp equip¬ 
ment are all that are necessary for 
making camp furniture, because fine 
work is neither required nor desir¬ 
able in the woods. 

Figure 431 shows 

A Camp Chair that is easily made. 

You will notice that the edges of all 
the pieces are left square, instead of 
being beveled to fit the adjoining 
surfaces, that the seat board B is 
nailed to the diagonal brace C, and 
the two fastened to the chair back A , with cleats D 
and E nailed on to support them, and that the diagonal 



Fig. 431. — A Camp Chair. 


leg F is slanted as much as you wish to have the chair 
back slant, and is braced by the two side braces G. 

A Camp Table (Fig. 432). By fastening together several 


35° 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Fig. 432. 

Fig. 432. —A Camp Table and Bench. 
Fig. 433. — Cleat Support on Tree. 


boards with battens, a good table top can be made, and 
this may be supported at one end on a cleat nailed across 

a tree trunk (Fig. 433), 
and at the other end 
on a couple of stakes 
driven into the ground 
(Fig. 432). 

Boxes can usually be 
picked up in the vicin¬ 
ity of an old camp, and 
these, added to those 
in which you brought 
your outfit, can be util¬ 
ized for many things. 

A Good Table Bench is obtained by laying a plank across 
the tops of two boxes (Fig. 432), and 

A Comfortable Box Bench is made by removing one side 
of a box, then placing the 
box on the ground, bottom 
up, and constructing a 
back as shown in Fig. 434. 

To keep it from overturn¬ 
ing, nail the box to stakes 
driven into the ground. 

Use your ingenuity in 
constructing 

Box Cupboards to hang in 
the tent and upon the trees. FlG * 434, ~ A Comfortable Box Bench. 














































































Good workmanship is necessary in boat building, not 
so much for the sake of appearance as for safety and dur¬ 
ability, but neat appearance will not be found lacking 
in a properly planned and carefully built boat. The 
nearer a boat approaches the square lines of a box, the 
easier it is to build, and it is well for a boy to try one of 
the simplest forms, such as the punt shown in Fig. 435, 
for a first attempt. The principles of boat building are 
easily learned, and after you have constructed a punt you 
will have had enough experience to enable you to tackle 
other forms of craft of more complicated construction. 

Dimensions. The punt shown in the illustration is 12 
feet long, 3 feet 6 inches wide, and 18 inches deep, but 
these dimensions can easily be increased or reduced if 
you wish a boat of other proportions. 

Material. Get pine or cypress for your building ma¬ 
terial, and be sure to see that it is well seasoned, dry, and 
free from knots and other defects. Stock 18 inches wide 
is generally hard to find, nowadays, in most localities, 
so probably you will have to use an 8-inch and a 10-inch 

35 * 










































35 2 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


board, or a 6-inch and a 12-inch board, for each side. The 
bottom boards should be either 4 or 6 inches wide and 




Fig. 435. —A Home-made Punt. 

Fig. 436. — How the Bottom Boards are Put On. 

Fig. 437. — Bevel off the Bottom Edge of the Stem and Stern Pieces. 


have plain edges, not tongued and grooved, and the seats 
may be made of any scraps you have on hand. 



Figure 438 shows how 

The Side Boards should be battened together. Make 
the center batten 10 inches wide and the other two bat¬ 
tens about 4 inches wide; fasten the latter in place about 


































































A HOME-MADE PUNT 


353 


24 inches from the ends. Short nails will not hold such 
pieces as battens very well, and the clinching of long 
nails, where they are exposed to view, is not very desir¬ 
able, so it is a good plan to use screws of the proper 
length for the purpose. 

When the boards of the side pieces have been battened 
together, locate the points B 4 inches below the top edge, 
then connect them with points A by the diagonal lines 
AB y as shown, and saw off the ends on these lines. 

Cut the Stem and Stern Pieces 4 inches wide and 3 feet 
4 inches long, then turn the side pieces over on their 
top edge as shown in Fig. 436, and fit these pieces be¬ 
tween their ends. 

Cut the Bottom Boards 3 feet 6 inches long, out of the 
4-inch or 6-inch boards mentioned before. Coat the edges 
of the side pieces and the edges of each bottom board 
with white lead, and drive each board as close as possible 
to the preceding piece. Use copper or galvanized nails 
for fastening the boards; these will stand the exposure 
to water, but wire or wrought-iron nails without galva¬ 
nizing will not, and will soon rust through and break off. 

The bottom edge of the stem and stern pieces will have 
to be beveled off with a plane as shown in Fig. 437, as will 
also one edge of the first and last bottom boards, and one 
edge of the bottom boards at the ridges, in order to make 
the boards fit together perfectly at those points. 

Fasten an Inner Keel Board to the bottom of your boat 
along the center, from bow to stern, as a protection tc 


354 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Fig. 439. — The End Seat. 


the bottom boards, and nail a cleat to it in the proper 
place to brace your feet against while rowing. 

Figure 435 shows the arrangement of the three 
Seats. Fasten these to cleats placed about 3 inchesbelow 
the top of the sides. Make the center seat out of a 10-inch 

board, and the end seats 
out of a 10-inch and an 
8-inch board (which will 
make them about 18 
inches wide), and nail a 
short batten across the 
under side of the end seats 
as shown in Fig. 439, to pre¬ 
vent them from springing 
apart and catching ones 
clothes between them. 

Rowlocks. A pair of gal¬ 
vanized wrought-iron row- 
locks, of the form shown in 
Fig. 440, can be purchased 
for 25 or 30 cents, and it is 
an easy matter to make the 
socket blocks for them to 
set in (Fig. 441). Cut two 
blocks about 8 inches long, 
1^ inches wide, and 2 inches 
thick; bevel the ends, and 
bore a ^-inch hole near each 



^ r — -4 Fig. 440. 



— Fig. 442. 


Fig. 443. 

Figs. 440 and 441. — Rowlocks. 
Figs. 442 and 443. — Thole-pins 


































































A HOME-MADE PUNT 


355 


end for bolting, and a ^-inch hole from the center of the 
top down through each for the rowlock to drop into. The 
socket plate (Fig. 440), which comes with the rowlock, 
should be set into the block flush with the top. Bolt the 
blocks to the sides of the punt (Fig. 441) so the centers 
will be 14 inches from the center of the center seat. 

In case you cannot conveniently get rowlocks, 

Thole-pins may be made and used as a substitute. 
Figure 442 shows a pin cut from a piece of broom-handle, 
and Fig. 443 shows how a pair of them should be set 
into holes bored in a block similar to those shown for the 
rowlocks. The holes for the pins should be placed about 
3 inches apart. 

The Painter may be knotted on the end and slipped 
through a hole bored in the stem piece, and a circular 
notch may be cut in the top edge of the stern piece to 
admit an oar or paddle for steering. 

Finishing. Set all nail-heads, putty up the holes thus 
made, and all other holes and defects, and then give the 
boat two or three coats of lead paint, inside and out, in 
color to suit your taste. 





T 





"TT 

-i 1 

1 

L 

V 


■1 -r ■!—"T. 1 1 , 3 =. 


CHAPTER XXIII 

A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 


*v--j/y-vfr/// -\vr 



Although there is more work to the construction of 
a sharpie than the punt described in the last chapter, it 
is much easier to row on account of its wedge-shaped 
bow; at the same time, the material required will cost 
no more than that for the other boat. The flat-bottom 
boat is generally considered one of the best forms of 
cheap rowboats, and you will find it in common use 



Fig. 444. — A Home-made Sharpie. 


upon the rivers and small lakes, at summer resorts and 
at private piers. It is not difficult to build one. 

Dimensions. Figure 444 shows a sharpie 13 feet long, 
3 feet 6 inches wide amidships, and 18 inches deep. 

35 6 



































































A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 


357 


You may alter these proportions if you wish, but, in case 
you do, draw out your revised plan and figure out the 
sizes for all the pieces before beginning work, so that 
every part will fit properly. 

As it is difficult to get boards wider than 14 inches, 



Fig. 449. 


Fig. 445. — Pattern for the Side Pieces. 

Fig. 446. — Two Forms of Stem-piece. 

Fig. 447. — Pattern for the Stern-piece. 

Fig. 448. — Pattern for the Stretcher. 

Fig. 449. — How the Above Pieces are put Together. 

and 12 inches is usually the widest stock material, you 
will have to use either a 12-inch and a 6-inch board, or a 
10-inch and an 8-inch board, for 

The Side Pieces. The boards should be of i-inch stock, 























































358 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


and should be dressed on both sides. Figure 445 shows 
the pattern for the lower boards, with the dimensions 
for cutting the slants on the bow and stern ends. 

Cut the Stem-piece like one of the forms shown in Fig. 
446. A is the simpler form to cut, but B makes the 
neater appearing bow, as it finishes off the ends of the 
side pieces; the side boards fit into the rabbets cut in 
the sides of piece B. If form A is used, the ends of 
the side pieces must be finished off by nailing a strip 3 
inches wide to the edges of the side pieces and the stem- 
piece (C, Fig. 452). 

Figure 447 shows the pattern for 
The Stern-piece, and Fig. 448 shows the pattern for 
The Stretcher, both of which should be prepared as 
soon as the stem-piece has been cut. 

To put together the sides, stem-and stern-pieces, and 
the stretcher (Fig. 449), first nail the ends of the side 
pieces to the stem-piece, then nail them to the ends of 
the stretcher, which should be placed in the exact center 
of the length of the sides. Draw the stern ends toward 
each other until they are of the required distance apart 
for the stern-piece to fit between, and tack a temporary 
piece across the edges to hold them in position (Fig. 
449). It is necessary to bend each side piece the same 
amount, in order to turn out a boat which will not have 
a tendency to swerve to one side with each stroke of the 
oars, and the best way to get the sides symmetrical is by 
attaching a cord to a nail driven into the center of the 


A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 


359 


end of the stem-piece, stretching it along the entire 
length of the boat and holding it at the center of the 
stern-piece (Fig. 449); if this crosses the center of the 
stretcher, you may know that the work is right, and you 
can fasten the stern ends permanently in place; if it 
does not cross the stretcher at the center, it will be a 
simple matter to bend one side piece a little more and the 
other a little less, until the string crosses the center of 
the bow, stern, and stretcher in a straight line. 

The stretcher may be fastened permanently in place, 
or the nails may be driven part way in (Fig. 450) so 



Fig. 450. — How the Bottom Boards are put On. 

they may be removed and the stretcher taken out after 
the center seat has been put in place and the bracing is 
no longer required. The top boards of the sides should 
be nailed on as soon as the framework has been trued 
up, and the ends of these should be cut off even with the 
stem- and stern-pieces. 

The Bottom Boards should be either 4-inch or 6-inch 
boards of i-inch stock, dressed on two sides and two 
edges. Get the dryest material you can, for the pieces 




















5 6 ° 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


must not shrink to any marked degree after being put 
in place or the seams will open and cause the boat to 
leak ; dry stuff will swell when exposed to the water, and 
the seams will close up very tight. The boards must 
not have tongued-and-grooved edges. Before putting on 
the boards, it will be necessary to plane off the bottom 
edges of the side pieces, because, as a result of the 
change in the twist of the boards between the bow and 
stern, these edges will be slightly curved. Do this work 
carefully so as to provide a straight and true surface to 
nail the bottom to. Cut the boards a little longer than 
is necessary, and then, starting at the stern end, nail the 
pieces in place, driving each board as tight as possible 
against the preceding piece. The edges of the boards 
and the side pieces should be given a thick coat of white 
lead to caulk up the seams. See instructions given for 

putting on the bottom of the 
Punt (page 353). 

It will not be necessary to 
attach a keel along the entire 
length of the bottom of the boat, 
but 

Fig. 451.— Attachment of A Skeg should be prepared 
Skeg ' for the sloping stern as shown 

in Fig. 451. This triangular piece may be cut out of 
1-inch stuff and should be of the proper size so, when 
nailed in place, the lower edge will line up with the 
straight part of the bottom of the boat, and the end will 


















A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 


361 


line up with the face of the stern-piece. The illustration 
shows how the piece should be attached and braced with 
small wooden strips. The skeg must be in an exact line 
with the center of the bow and stern ; its position can be 
determined by stretching a cord through the centers. 
The strip at the end of the skeg not only holds this 
piece to the stern, but forms a strip in which to screw 
the screw-eyes for the rudder hooks. 

Fasten an Inner Keel Board in the bottom as described 
on page 353 for the Punt. 

Seats should be fastened in the bow and stern ends and 
in the center as shown in Fig. 444. These should be sup¬ 
ported upon cleats, and the neatest way to put on the cleats 
is to make them continuous as shown in the illustration, 
and fasten them low enough so they will cover the seams 
between the side boards. Batten together the pieces of 
the bow and stern seats as shown 
in Fig. 439, page 354. 

The Bow of the Boat should be 
completed next. If you have made ' Scat 



a wedge-shaped stem-piece (A> - 

Fig. 446), cut strip C (Fig. 452) 

3 inches wide, and long enough 
to extend from ij inches above 
the stem-piece down to the under Fig 452 ._ Fi „ishing of Bow. 
side of the bottom boards; then 

prepare two triangular pieces similar to D to fit against 
strip C, and screw them in place as shown. If stem-piece 











362 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

B was used (Fig. 446), fit two pieces similar to D 
(Fig. 452) against it in the same way. 

For the Painter secure a small staple, and a yacht or 
harness iron ring, and attach these to the bow as shown 
in Fig. 452. 

An Easily Made Rudder is shown in Figs. 453 to 457. 
Figure 453 shows it completed; Fig. 454 shows how screw- 
eyes are screwed into the strip fastened to the stern-piece, 



Fig. 455. Fig. 454. 


Figs. 453-457. — Details of an Easily Made Rudder. 

into which to hook the rudder hooks; and Figs. 455,456, 
and 457 show the details for constructing the rudder. 

The cross-bar of the rudder (Fig. 457) should be 
mortised to receive the end of the rudder, as shown, 
and a hole should be bored through the rudder through 
which to drive a pin to hold the cross-bar in place 
(Fig. 455). Get two 7-inch iron hooks (A> Fig. 456), 
bend the ends out straight, and then bend a new 4-inch 
hook on each ( B , Fig. 456). Screw these hooks in the 








































A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 


363 

proper positions so they will hook into the screw-eyes in 
the stern. 

The Rowlock Blocks should be prepared and attached as 
shown in Fig. 441 or Fig. 443, page 354, and either 

Rowlocks or Thole-pins should be fitted into them (Figs. 
440 and 442, page 354). 

Finish the Boat as directed for the Punt (see page 

355 )- 

For An Outboard Motor, use 2-inch stock for the stern- 
piece, and make it several inches wider than the side 
pieces. The boat bottom will be flat instead of sloping, 
at the stern. 

Another way to build the sides is to fasten vertical 
battens across the boards. Arrange these to come at 
the seats, one on each side of each seat. Then nail 
cleats across the battens to support the seats. 

Other Boat Plans. You will find plans for other forms 
of boats and water craft in Chapters XXX, XXXI, 
XXXII, XXXIII, XXXIV, XXXV and XXXVI, of 
‘‘Outdoor Boy Craftsmen,” and Chapters XXVIII and 
XXIX of “Big Book of Boys’ Hobbies.” 




□ 

□ 

1 . 

, 1 1 — 

I — 

1 ,1 1 ■«- • 1 - 1 


CHAPTER XXIV 


PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER 
HOME-MADE WAGONS 


^ZEsozzsx: 



With the necessary wheels in hand, it is possible to 
make all sorts of wagons, from a simple two-wheeled dog¬ 
cart to a model automobile. There are a number of 
sources from which a boy can procure wheels if he 
doesn’t own any. Oftentimes a pair can be picked up 
at a second-hand store or at a junk shop, for 50 or 75 
cents a pair; sometimes a neighbor who has a grown son 
can find a few for you by a little rummaging through the 
basement or attic; and often you will run across a boy 
with whom you can strike a bargain. Wagon, bicycle, tri¬ 
cycle, velocipede, and baby-carriage wheels may be used. 

A Pushmobile is a unique form of home-made wagon 
that has been developed from the simple wagons which 
the boys used to make for coasting, and for pushing from 
behind, when the automobile was unknown. It is pat¬ 
terned as nearly as possible after an automobile, and it is 
pushed by the mechanician, who runs behind, while the 
driver rides and attends to the steering. Working de¬ 
tails for making one of these unique wagons are shown 
in Figs. 458 to 471. 


364 





























PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 365 


Paul Towne of Flushing, Long Island, was probably 
the first boy to build a pushmobile, and as a result of the 
rivalry which sprang up among the boys who made 



Fig. 458.—A Pushmobile. 


similar “machines,” each of whom claimed superior ad¬ 
vantages for his car, 

The Flushing Pushmobile Club was organized in the 
autumn of 1906 for the purpose of promoting pushmo¬ 
bile races. The Brooklyn Daily Times of Dec. 15, 1906, 
contained an interesting account of the work of the club, 
from which the following details of several of its races 
are taken: — 

“The Flushing Club has held three great races during its active ca¬ 
reer. The first was an intersuburban affair and was to determine 
whether championship honors should go to Flushing, College Point, or 
Bayside, membership in the club being from all these ‘ foreign * coun¬ 
tries. The honors in this race went to Flushing, for President Paul 




































366 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Towne and his brother Herbert were the winners. The second race was 
for the Vanderbilt cup, so called. Many of the Murray Hill and Flush¬ 
ing merchants contributed toward it, but the largest individual subscrip¬ 
tion came from Mr. Vanderbilt. The trophy was valued at over $50. 
According to the deed of gift the trophy must be won three times to be¬ 
come the property of the winner. The first race for this cup ended in a 
fluke, for the car winning the race was protested. It was then decided 
that the race should be run over. The second event was won by Brown 
and Lawrence, who won the first race. This was a very popular victory 
under the circumstances. The third big event was a race for the Reiger 
cup, a beautiful trophy presented by Charles Reiger of Flushing. This 
event brought out the full strength of the club, for there were twenty 
cars in the race. The trophy was won by Donahue and Johnson.” 

The photographs opposite page 364 show several of 
the competing machines, while those opposite this page 
show the start of one of the club’s races and one of the 
winning teams. The winning team in 

The Vanderbilt Cup Race covered the course, which 
was ten times around a city block, in 27 minutes and 12 
seconds. This was one of the most interesting races. 

You will notice by the photographs that the boys have 
shown considerable ingenuity in working out the plans 
for their pushmobiles. Various kinds and sizes of 
wheels have been used; some of the bodies are built low 
and others high; some of the models have been copied 
after foreign racing machines, and others have been pat¬ 
terned after roadsters and runabouts. The hoods have 
been made of grocery boxes, sheet metal, barrel hoops 
covered with canvas, or built up with box boards ; and one 
boy, who wanted to get the pointed nose effect of the 






Some of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile 

Club Races. 
















At the Start Off. A Flushing Pushmobile Club Race. 


Winning Car in the Vanderbilt Cup Race. 





PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 367 

French racer, used the sawed-off bow of a row boat for 
his. To furnish the “ chug,” “ chug,” and “ smell ” of the 
automobile, one lad equipped a dummy car with a gaso¬ 
line engine, and this was run over the course for the 
benefit of the spectators. 

The Brooklyn Daily Times published the following 
interesting 

Description of a Pushmobile Race : — 

“ Is a pushmobile race exciting? Ask any of the hundreds of spec¬ 
tators who crowd the course. They will tell you that it is almost as 
interesting as a real auto race. There will be men and women with 
score-cards, pencils, and stop-watches. The cars are timed for each lap. 
Seconds count as much, if not more, than in the big races. The cars 
come singly, three, four, and half a dozen at a time. It takes an expert 
to keep all the records accurately. This car is now ahead, and then 
that one leads. One car is gaining a lap on all the rest and looks like a 
winner. There are spurts in which the boys on the cars use every bit 
of strength and endurance they possess. As the contest comes to a 
close, it is seen that some two or three are leading. Now if no accident 
happens, if only there is not a breakdown ! That is the hope expressed 
by each man and woman with the score-card. Then the rush for the 
finish. The first car to complete the ten laps, and then the figuring for 
elapsed time, and finally the declaration of the winner and the shouts 
for the successful car.” 

Now, boys, if you have not become fired with enthusiasm 
after reading the above accounts of the work of the 
Flushing Pushmobile Club, the author has missed his 
guess ; if you have , get to work and construct a machine 
like the one shown in Fig. 458 and described upon the 
following pages, then show it to your boy friends, and the 


368 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


chances are there will be enough machines in your town 
within a few days to make it possible to 

Organize a Pushmobile Club, or to make pushmobile 
racing a feature of your present neighborhood or school 
club. 

To construct a Pushmobile. When procuring wheels 
for a pushmobile, get the iron axle rods and nuts and 
washers that belong to the wheels, if possible ; it will be 
easy enough to refit nuts and washers to the axles if they 
are lost, but if you cannot get the axles or find another 
pair that will do, you will have 

To make New Axles. A couple of round iron rods of 
the proper diameter to fit the hubs of your wheels can be 
procured at almost any hardware store, wagon shop, or 
blacksmith shop, and you can have them cut to the 
proper length, threaded for nuts, and drilled in two 
places near each end, by a machinist, plumber, or gas- 
fitter. You will have to decide upon the width of your 
wagon before you can determine the length for the rods, 
and of course the length of the wheel hubs will have to 
be considered also. The first hole in the rod is provided 
for an iron pin, the purpose of which is to keep the wheel 
from running too far back on the axle, and the second 
hole is made for a stove-bolt or screw for fastening the 
iron axle to the wooden axle and wagon-bed (Figs. 477 
and 478). 

The Wooden Axles should be constructed first (Figs. 
459 and 460). The sizes of these will depend upon the 


PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 369 


length of the iron axles, the height of the wheels, and 
whether you want a high or low body. The drawings 
show a machine with a body that is higher than most of 



Fig. 460. — The Fig. 461. — Brace for the 
Front Axle. Front Axle. 



Fig. 459. — The 
Rear Axle. 


those shown in the photographs, but this makes a car 
that is easier for the mechanician to push, for he does 
not have to stoop over as much. After cutting out 
piece A , you must make B and C of the proper widths 
so the top of B will be level with the top of A when the 
wheels are in place. C is fastened to B by means of a 
king-bolt (Fig. 460). 

Connect the wooden axles by means of a piece of 2- 
by-2 ( D , Figs. 459 to 462), and brace the king-bolt of the 
front axle to this strip with an iron strap, to prevent it 
from bending (Fig. 461); the brace should be about ^ 
inch thick and 1 inch wide, and should be bent and 
drilled as shown in Fig. 461. 

The Wagon-bed pieces E and F are 2-by*4’s and connect 
the tops of axle pieces A and B , to which they are nailed. 
These will be of whatever length you have determined to 
make your car. 

For the Steering-wheel get an old sewing-machine 
driving-wheel, if possible, and use a broom-handle for a 
























37 ° 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



.. 


465. 

SCRt** 


Fig. 462. — Framework of the Pushmobile. 

(The front end of the strip F is broken off so that you can see the steering-gear.) 

shaft (Fig. 463). Screw the wheel to the end of the 
broom-handle (Fig. 465). If you cannot get a sewing- 
machine wheel, a wooden or iron wagon-wheel may be 
wired to the end of the broom-handle (Fig. 466). The 

^^Fig. shaft must be provided 
with a drum upon which 
to fasten the steering ropes 
(Figs. 462 and 463), and 
this drum should be made 
out of three circular blocks 
as shown in Fig. 464. 
Lay out the center block 

3 inches in diameter, and 
the outer, or flange, blocks 

4 inches in diameter, and 
before cutting them out 




Fig. 463. Fig. 464. 

Fig. 463. — Steering-wheel and Shaft 
for the Pushmobile. 

Fig. 464. — Three Disks like these for 
Drum of Steering-wheel Shaft. 

Fig. 465. — How to attach a Sewing- 
machine Wheel to a Broom-handle. 

Fig. 466. — How to wire a Wagon 
Wheel to a Broom-handle. 
































PLSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 371 

bore a i-inch hole through the center of each. Nail the 
blocks together, and slip the completed drum over the 
end of the broom-handle; but do not fasten the drum 
in place until after you have mounted the shaft on the 
framework. 

Fasten a board to the wagon-bed, as shown at G (Fig. 

462) , on blocks similar to H and /; the blocks must be cut 

to the proper slant so the position of the board will be 

at right angles to the steering-wheel shaft. Then fasten 

the cross-piece J to the under side of strip D with a bolt 

and nails. Board G should have a i-inch hole bored 

through its center for the steering shaft to turn in, and 

a hole should be bored part way through strip D , directly 

in line with the hole in G, for a socket for the end of the 

♦ 

shaft. To connect the drum on the shaft to the wheels, 
take some strong rope, pass it around the drum, cross the 
ends on the underside (Fig. 463), run them through screw- 
eyes screwed into the cross-piece J on each side of strip 
D, and attach them to the ends of the wooden axle. It is 
important to cross the rope after passing it around the 
drum, for otherwise the pushmobile would turn to the 
left when you turn the wheel to the right, and vice versa . 

When the steering-gear has been carefully adjusted, 
fasten the drum to the shaft with a screw, and screw or 
nail the steering line to the drum; also drive a pin into 
the broom-handle about \ inch in front of board G to pre¬ 
vent the shaft from pulling out of place (Figs. 462 and 

463) - 


372 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


When the frame of the pushmobile has been completed* 
it is a simple matter to finish the body. 

The Hood is made out of a box with the cover and bottom 
removed, and a three-sided top constructed upon it. If you 
cannot find a box of the right size, you can cut down a 
large box or build the hood out of boards. Figures 458 



Fig. 467. 

Fig. 467. — Radiator-front. 

Fig. 468. — Lard-can Headlight and Bracket. 

Fig. 469. — Clock-case and Can for Side Lamps. 

Fig. 470. — The Completed Clock-case Side Lamp. 

Fig. 471. — Seat for Auto Wagon. 

and 467 show the shape of the top. Fasten a small pill 
box to the top of the hood, as shown, for the cap to the 
“radiator” (Fig. 458). 

After fastening the hood to the frame of the pushmobile, 
tack a piece of screen wire over the front for 

The Radiator-front, and then attach a strip of tin around 
the edge, as shown in Fig. 467, to finish it off. 



















PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 373 

The Seat, back, and arms of the body are made out of a 
box cut down, and the rear end is built up of boards. 

Headlights. Two lard cans with their covers fitted on 
make splendid imitation headlights (Fig. 468). Cut two 
wooden brackets similar to A (Fig. 468), nail or screw 
them to the sides of the radiator-front, and then nail 
or screw the cans to the brackets and to the radiator- 
front. 

Side Lamps. Bicycle lamps may be used for these, or 
you can make lamps out of the cases of two old alarm- 
clocks (Figs. 469 and 470). 

To make a Clock-case Side Lamp, remove the works from 
the case and put back the screws necessary to hold the 
glass in place; then cut a |-inch hole through the center 
of the bottom for the candle, and wire the case to the 
top of a small tin can of about the size of a 1-pound 
paint can, punching holes through the clock-case and 
the can through which to run the wire. The candle 
sets down in the can and is lighted by removing the 
tin back of the clock-case. Nail or screw the case to the 
side of the hood. 

Paint your Machine with two coats of paint, using any 
color you choose. Of course you will want to make the 
body of one color and the trimmings of another. 

Paint your License Number upon the radiator-front with 
white or red paint, or use last year’s auto license plates. 

A Racing Pushmobile may have a much simpler body 
than the machine just described, or you may make pop 


374 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


tions removable so the machine may be dismantled for a 
race. 

An Auto Wagon. The wagon shown in Fig. 472 has a 
body built similar to that of the pushmobile, except that 



Fig. 472. — An Auto Wagon. 


the bed is made solid out of boards 1 inch thick. Make 
the sides out of 8-inch boards with a 2-inch strip nailed 
along the top edge, and make the dashboard out of two 
pieces of board battened together. 

The Steering-wheel should be made out of a sewing- 
machine wheel and piece of gas-pipe as shown in Fig. 
473. Get a gas-fitter to prepare a piece of gas-pipe with 


























PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 375 

a T connection at one end, and a short piece of pipe 
run through the T crosswise, as shown in the illustra¬ 
tion, and have him drill a hole through the vertical piece 
of pipe near the upper end, and two holes through the 
cross-piece — one near each end. Screw two screw-eyes 
into the inside face of the dashboard, then slip the steer¬ 
ing shaft through a hole bored through the bottom of 
the wagon-bed, and through the screw- 
eyes. Fasten the wheel to the end of 
the pipe by means of a metal pin driven 
through the hole in the pipe and wheel 
hub, wrap some wire around the pipe 
on a line with the top of the dashboard, 
and solder it in place, to keep the pipe 
from slipping down (Fig. 473), and run 

rope or chain from the ends of the lower FlG ‘ 473 - — Details of 
1 # a Sewing-machine 

cross-piece to the axle ends. Wheel and Gas-pipe 

Another Steering-gear. The steering steering wheel. 

shaft and cross-piece may be made of wood, but of course 
the iron pipe scheme is much stronger and is much better 
in the case of the auto wagon, where the weight of the 
driver comes directly over the wheels, bringing a greater 
strain upon each part. If you want to, you may rig up 
a dummy steering-wheel and shaft, and provide for steer¬ 
ing by running ropes from the axle ends around the sides 
of the wagon to the back, where the mechanician can 
attend to it. It might be a good plan to provide for this 
method of steering, anyway, so in case you give a child 








376 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

a ride at any time you can place him in the front seat and 
do the steering yourself from the rear. 

Build the Seat as shown in Fig. 471, and screw a hook 
into each end of the seat, and a screw-eye into each side 
of the wagon in the proper position for it to hook into, 
to hold it securely to the wagon sides. 

Procure an Auto Horn for the front of the dashboard, or 
fasten an electric bell upon it and place a dry battery in¬ 
side of the wagon. 

Figure 474 shows 

A Simple Push Wagon. A 2-inch plank, 6 or 8 inches 
in width, should be procured for 



Fig. 474. — A Simple Push Wagon. 


The Wagon-bed; a board 1 inch thick may be used, 
but of course it will not have the stiffness that the 
thicker piece would have. Also get a strong box, 















































PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 377 

knock out one end, nail a cleat to the ends of the 
side and bottom boards to hold them together, and 
fasten the box to one end of the wagon-bed as shown 
in Figs. 474 and 475. 

The Rear Wheels should be 16 or 18 inches in diameter 
and should set under the center of the box (Fig. 475). 
Nail two blocks of the same thickness as the wagon-bed 
to the bottom of the box, and fasten the axle across them 



Fig. 475. — Bottom View of Wagon-bed. 

Figs. 476 and 477. — The Way to attach the Rear Axle. 
Figs. 478 and 479. —The Way to attach the Front Axle. 


as shown, running a stove-bolt or screw through the 
holes (Figs. 477 and 478), and using either staples or 
nails bent over as additional fastenings (Figs. 476 to 
478). Drive a metal pin through the outer hole in the 
axles to keep the hubs of the wheels from rubbing 
against the wood (Figs. 477 and 478). 

The Axle for the Front Wheels is fastened to a wooden 



































































378 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


axle (Fig. 478), which in turn is pivoted to the wagon- 
bed by means of a king-bolt as shown in Figs. 478 and 
479. Bore a hole through the wagon-bed for the bolt, 
and put washers where shown before screwing the nut 
in place. 

Other Pushmobile Plans, details of accessories, a dia¬ 
gram of a pushmobile race course, and suggestions for 
holding a race, are given in Chapters I, II and III of 
“Outdoor Boy Craftsmen,” and in Chapters XXXIV, 
XXXV and XXXVI of “Big Book of Boys’ Hobbies.” 



Wren-houses are in greatest demand, due partly 
to the fact that wren tenants are easily acquired, and 
partly to their small size, inexpensiveness, and sim¬ 
plicity of construction. Another feature in their favor 



Fig. 480a. — A Box Wren-House. Fig. 480b. — Cross-Section. 


is their small doorways, which are no larger than a 
silver quarter, and are too small for sparrows to enter. 
You will like 


379 


































































3 8° 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



,The Box Wren-house shown in Fig. 480a, and so will 
the first wrens to visit your yard this Spring. 

The walls and floor are a box about 6 inches in each 
of its three dimensions (Figs. 480b and 481a). Cut 
down a larger box (Fig. 481b), or build a box, if nec¬ 
essary. Locate the 
center of one side, and 
bore a -|-inch hole for 
a doorway (Fig. 481a). 

The roof requires a 
projection of 4 or 5 
inches. Two or more 
boards f inch thick 
will be needed. Fasten 
them together with 
end-battens, as shown 
in Fig. 481a. Then 
make a frame like 
that shown in Fig. 
481a, of strips f inch 
square, to form a 
molding or cornice, at 
the top of the walls. 
Leave enough clear¬ 
ance all around so that 
the roof can be removed easily for the annual house¬ 
cleaning. Bore a hole through the center of each strip, 
and drive screws through the holes into the house. 



Fig. 481a. 


Fig. 481a. — Detail of Box House. 
Fig. 481b.—{Cut down a Box this Way. 













BIRD-HOUSES 


381 

Cover the roof with slate-coated roofing-felt or 
shingles. Drive a pair of screw-eyes into the center 
of opposite sides of the roof, and fasten galvanized or 
copper wire to the screw-eyes for hangers. 

Make the perch of two large spools and a piece 
of j-inch dowel-stick 9 inches 
long. Drive the dowel-stick 
through the spool holes, and 
fasten its upper end in a hole 
bored in the house bottom 
(Fig. 481a). 

Another Box Bird-house is 

shown in Fig. 482. This is 
similar to a house which the 
boys of some of the Chicago 
public schools have con¬ 
structed and placed in the 
trees of the parks, with the 

addition of the pan bath. . , 

; . Fig. 482. — Another Box Bird- 

The illustration shows cleaily house with a Pan for Drinking 

how the back, sides, and roof Water. 

are cut and fitted together, and how the water pan is 

bracketed out from the lower end of the back board, and 

I am going to let you work out the sizes for the various 

pieces according to what you think they ought to be. 

The lower portion of the back board may be screwed 
or nailed to a wall or post, or if you omit the pan and 
place the box in a tree, it can be tied securely by running 










382 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

a piece of clothes-line several times around it and the tree 
trunk. 

A cheese-box cover and one of the small kegs in which 
mackerel and herring come to the market furnishes the 
materials for making 

A Bird Tower such as is shown in Fig. 483. The keg 
must be thoroughly washed out with hot water and either 
washing soda or lye, and should be painted inside, to 
remove the fish odor. Bore four openings in the side of 

the keg, and fasten a perch stick in a 
small hole below each opening. 

The illustration shows thekegmounted 
upon the end of a rug-pole, but if you 
cannot get one of these, the top of a 
clothes-post, or a piece of 2-by-4 set into 
the ground, will serve the purpose. 
Nail the keg to the support, then set 
the cheese-box cover on top and nail 
it in place. 

The lower perches should run through 
the support as shown in the illustration, 
and may be of pieces of broken flagstaffs 
or cabinet-maker’s dowel sticks. 

The Can Wren-tower (Fig. 487) should 
Fig. 487. —a Tin- be built for a shady part of the yard, 

can Bird Tower. . . , , , . 

because metal houses become very hot 
in the sun. Use one, two, or three tomato cans. Cut 
a hole | inch in diameter in the side of each. Bend 












Fig. 486. A House \nd Swing. 


































BIRD-HOUSES 


383 


the piece of tin out as shown in Fig. 488 to form a 
perch. Then remove the top of one can (A, Fig. 489), 
and the top and bottom of the 
other cans (B and C, Fig. 489). 

The best way to remove the ends 
is with a can-opener that cuts close 
to the edge and turns the cut 
edge down to form a smooth rim. 

The cans are joined together by 
means of two circular blocks of 
wood (E and F y Fig. 489), which 
also divide the tower into three 
compartments. 

A 6-inch tin funnel forms the 
roof ( D , Fig. 489), and a cork with 
a piece of a hatpin stuck into it 
(G) fits into the spout of the funnel 
for a spire. 

Tack the edges of the cans to the 
wooden blocks, and wire the funnel 
roof to the upper can as shown in 
one end of each wire to the funnel rim and the other end 
to a small staple driven into the upper block. Twist 
the wires until the funnel is firm. Nail the bottom can 
to the top of whatever support you provide for the tower. 
Paint the tin to prevent it from rusting. 

The Bird Castle shown in Fig. 484 was designed and 
built by the author a few years ago for his garden. The 



Figs. 488 and 489. — De¬ 
tails of the Tin-can Bird 
Tower shown in Fig. 487. 


Fig. 487, fastening 














j8 4 handicraft for handy boys 

corner towers of this are built like the tower in Fig. 487. 
The castle measures 12 inches long, 7 inches wide, 16 
inches high at the highest point, and 11 inches high at 
the lowest point, and is made out of box boards. 

Figure 490 shows an end view of the castle with the 
tower of the opposite end in position. First cut the two 

end pieces H , and a third piece of the 
same shape and size for a center parti¬ 
tion, then nail the front and back boards 
/ and J to them. Cut the pieces in¬ 
dicated by the dotted lines K to fit 
between the center partition and the 
end pieces, for a loft floor. Cut an 
opening for each compartment in the 
end pieces (Fig. 490). 

Nail the roof boards L and M in 
place and fasten strip N to the base 
at the front (Fig. 490), then mount the 
castle upon a platform 11 inches wide 
and 24 inches long. Build up the 
towers at the two corners, and nail each can to the 
corner of the castle as you put it in place. 

The drawbridge (( 9 , Fig. 490) measures 2 \ inches by 
3| inches; hinge one end to the base strip, and suspend 
the other end by small brass chains fastened to the under 
side and to the front wall. 

Each can of the towers has a circular opening cut in it, 
but the long narrow windows in the towers and front wall 



Fig. 490. — End View 
of Bird Castle shown 
in Fig. 484, with One 
Tower in Position. 



















BIRD-HOUSES 


385 


of the castle and the large doorway are painted. The 
walls should be painted white, and the roof green or red. 

The little flag and the weather-vane are mounted upon 
nails stuck into corks, and the corks are pushed into the 
spouts of the funnels (Fig. 490). Set a cup in the plat¬ 
form, at each end. for drinking water. The castle may 
be bracketed upon a wall as shown in Fig. 484, or may 
be mounted upon a post. 

A Bird Ark. For the bird ark shown in Fig. 485, three 
cans are joined together in the same manner as those of 
the towers are joined (Figs. 488 and 489). Both ends of 
the center can are removed, but the bottom is left on the 
end cans. Cut a -§--inch hole in the side of the center 
can and a hole of the same diameter through the bottom 
of each end can ; do not remove the pieces of tin from 
the openings, but bend them out for perches as shown. 
Cut the roof boards of the proper size to project over the 
ends and sides of the cans, nail them together, and then 
fasten them in place by driving nails through the boards 
into the connecting blocks between the cans. 

Fasten the ark between blocks upon a board platform, 
then mount the platform upon a post support, and brace 
the supports with brackets to make it secure. Run 
several perch sticks through the brackets, as shown. 

A House and Swing made out of a wooden pail inverted 
and bracketed to a wall as shown in Fig. 486, so that its 
handle hangs down and forms a swing, is an attractive 
little house for the back yard. 


386 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Make the vertical partition to divide the pail into two 
compartments, and cut a circular piece of board to fit in 
the top. Nail the roof board to the bottom of the pail, 
cut an opening into each compartment, and fit a small 
block of wood beneath each opening for a platform. 



5 


Nail § - logs to 


edges of 


ogs to 
floor ; 




'-Hole for 
perch 

FLOOR 


Fig. 491. — A Wren Log Cabin. Fig. 493. — Veneering the Inner Structure. 

Fig. 492. — Floor Plan. 

A Wren Log Cabin. Building rustic bird-houses is fun. 
Shrubbery cuttings do very well for logs, if of green 
wood. Dead wood breaks when you nail through it, 
rots quickly and falls to pieces. Young shoots from 
tree roots are good material. The author built the cabin 
shown in Fig. 491 of branches from a wild cherry tree. 




























BIRD-HOUSES 


387 


The log veneering requires an inner structure of 
box boards like that shown in Figs. 493 and 494a, to 
support it. Build this of box boards -§ inch thick. 



Fig. 494b. — Patterns for Walls, Floor, and Roof 

Figure 494b shows patterns for the parts. Cut two 
like pieces for the front and rear walls, two pieces for 
the side walls, a floor-board, and two roof-halves. Bore 
a |-inch doorway in the front wall where located on 




































388 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


the pattern. Notice that one roof-board is J inch 
wider than the other, to allow for overlapping edges. 

To assemble the inner structure, fasten the side walls 
between the front and rear walls with brads i inch long. 
Nail the roof-boards together and to the walls. The 
floor-board is removable for cleaning out old nests. 

Figure 492 shows the length to cut the wall logs, 
and the way to fasten the first row of logs to the edge 
of the floor-board with only one end of each projecting. 
Cut the pieces with a coping-saw or other small saw. 

When you have nailed the first row of logs to the 
edge of the floor-board, as shown in Figs. 492 and 493, 
lay up the wall logs. Cut a log with a crotch at its 
center, to fit below the doorway, (Fig. 493) to form 
an entrance perch. Nail the logs with f-inch brads. 
Cut shorter logs to fit the triangular gable ends. 

Cut the roof logs 5J inches long, and nail them so 
that they overhang the side walls. Finish the gable 
ends by nailing logs to the roof edges as shown in 
Fig. 491. These gable logs will form a slight overhang. 
Cut two pieces of branches, each with a crotch, and 
nail them to the roof ridge for a ridge-pole. 

Complete the cabin floor by driving a crotched branch, 
like that in the detail, into a hole bored through the 
center of the floor-board (Figs. 492 and 493). Then 
cover the under surface with log veneering, as shown. 

Attach the floor to the cabin by forming wire loops 
to fit over the projecting ends of the first tiers of logs. 





T'i 


J_• 


"1.. • I T 


CHAPTER XXVI 


HOUSES FOR PETS 





Although a city boy doesn’t have the opportunity 
enjoyed by his country cousin, to keep pets, he gen¬ 
erally manages to own a dog, unless he lives in a re¬ 
stricted apartment building, and probably he has space 
in a yard or garage where he can keep a few pets such 
as rabbits, white rats, fancy mice and pigeons. 

The size of a dog-house depends upon the size of 
the dog, so get your dog and see what he looks like before 
you build his kennel; but if you get a pup of a large 
breed, be sure to make the house plenty large enough 
to allow for his growth, otherwise you will soon have to 
remodel the house or trade the dog for one that will fit. 

A Dog-house may be constructed out of packing-boxes 
or may be built up of any boards you can find about 
the place. Figure 495 shows a well-planned house of 
medium size, with a feature which is too frequently 
omitted in building one — provision for ventilation. If 
the house is set directly upon the ground, the floor is 
usually damp, for there is little or no chance for it to 
dry out after a rain, but by raising it a few inches as 

389 































39 ° 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


shown in the illustration by mounting it upon a base, 
and boring a number of holes through the base, the floor 



Fig. 495. — A Dog-house. 
(See working-drawings on page 89.) 


never comes in contact with the ground, and a constant 
circulation of air, which will pass in and out of the holes, 
will keep the ground underneath dry. 

Figure 92 on page 89 shows complete working- 
drawings for this dog-house, it having been taken for 
an example in explaining the proper method for laying 
out a sheet of working details. Of course you may alter 
the dimensions on the drawings to suit your needs. 

First construct a frame for the base of the house, 
then cut the floor boards of the proper size and nail 
them to the top edge of the base. Next construct 
the four walls in sections, making the two sides alike 







































HOUSES FOR PETS 


391 

and the front and rear wall alike, and fastening the 
boards together with battens as shown on the work¬ 
ing-drawings. Mark out the arched opening on the 
front wall, and nail a batten across the boards each 
side of it, as shown, to hold together the ends of the 
boards which are to be cut. When the sections have 
been prepared, fasten their ends together and toe-nail 
their bottom edges to the floor of the base. 

The roof may be made of boards alone, or of boards 
covered with shingles, tin, or some form of composition 
roofing-paper. If you shingle the roof, lay the boards 
lengthwise of the house, as shown on the working-draw¬ 
ings ; then lay the shingles on in the same way that 
they are put on any roof, starting at the eaves and lay¬ 
ing each succeeding row with 4 or 5 inches of the 
shingles exposed to the weather. The shingles may 
be split up into narrow pieces, and the lap may be in¬ 
creased so as to leave 2 or 3 inches exposed, if you want 
to make them of smaller proportions. Nail a ridge- 
board along each side of the roof at the peak, to cover 
the ends of the shingles and make the roof tight at 
that point. 

The dog-house should be given two coats of paint and 
be repainted once a year to keep it in condition. 

The Rabbit-hutch shown in Figs. 496 and 497 may 
be constructed out of a box or built out of new boards, 
whichever is the more easily obtained. The box should 
be about 4 feet long, 14 inches wide, and 20 inches deep. 


392 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

If you make this box, first prepare the end pieces, then 
cut the side boards and nail them to the ends, and then 



Fig. 496. — Open. 



Figs. 496 and 497. — A Rabbit-hutch. 


cut the bottom boards and nail them to the edges of the 
end and side boards. As shown in the illustration, the 
box is turned upon its side so the top will form the front 
of the hutch. 














































































































































































































































































































HOUSES FOR PETS 


393 


The front is covered with wire netting tacked to 
a frame, and the frame is hinged in place so that it 
will also form a door. Make the frame equal to the 
length of the box and in width about 2 inches less 
than the width of the box; use strips about 2 inches 
wide and 1 inch thick. The ends of the strips may 
be notched and fitted together as shown, or they may be 
butted, nailed and reenforced with corrugated fasteners. 

Galvanized Poultry-netting is the material probably 
easiest for most boys to procure for covering the open 
front of the hutch. This is made in widths ranging from 
12 inches to 72 inches, and can be had in i-inch, 1^- 
inch, and 2-inch mesh (the meshes are the openings 
formed by the crossed wires). The large mesh is 
plenty small enough for large rabbits, but the i-inch 
size is best for breeding hutches, as the little fellows 
can crawl through larger openings. Poultry-netting has 
an hexagonal-shaped mesh. 

Twist Wire Cloth is another form of covering which is 
very good for the purpose. Its meshes are somewhat 
similar to those of poultry netting, but are 1 inch long 
and inch wide. 

Wire Cloth has a square mesh like the wire used for 
door and window screens. The heavier grades are 
suitable for rabbit-hutches and are often used. 

Buy small netting staples with which to put on the 
wire netting or cloth. 

After covering the frame with the netting or clothe 


394 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


hinge it to the top edge of the hutch with three 2-by 
2-inch steel butts. Then cut a strip of just the length 
of the box and 2 inches wide, and hinge it to the bottom 
directly below the frame with a pair of 2-by-2-inch butts. 
Screw a hook into each end of the strip, and fasten a 
screw-eye or nail into each end of the box in the proper 
place for the hook to catch on to. Cut a couple of 
wooden buttons, bore a hole through the center of each 
large enough for a screw to slip through, and screw them 
to the bottom hinge-strip about 12 inches from the ends 
for button catches to hold the wire frame closed (Fig. 
497). The hinge-strip is provided to keep the sawdust, 
or other floor covering, from dropping out of the hutch 
every time the front is opened, and it is hinged in place 
so it may be dropped as shown in Fig. 496 when clean¬ 
ing out the hutch, to make easier the work of removing 
the old sawdust. To hold open the front while cleaning, 
nail a strip of wood to one end of the hutch, and fasten 
a hook in the edge of the frame and a screw-eye in the 
proper position in the stick for it to hook into, as shown 
in Fig. 496. 

The hutch should set up on something high enough to 
keep it at least 18 inches above the ground or floor, as 
rabbits are very sensitive to dampness. Brackets may be 
fastened to a wall at the proper height, or the hutch may 
be placed upon an overturned packing-box. 

If you intend to raise rabbits, you should have 

A Breeding Hutch, in addition to this hutch which will 


HOUSES FOR PETS 


395 


then be used to keep the male rabbit in after the baby 
rabbits have arrived. The breeding hutch may be con¬ 
structed out of a box of the same size as that used for the 
hutch just described, but one end must be partitioned 
off for a nest, and a doorway 5 inches wide and 6 inches 
high must be cut through the partition to connect it with 
the main runway of the hutch. The nest must be kept 
dark, so, instead of running the wire front along the full 
length, it must be stopped off upon a line with the par¬ 
tition. In place of the wire, hinge a board over this por¬ 
tion. This provides a doorway by which the nest can 
be reached from the outside. 

The Two-story Rabbit-hutch shown in Fig. 498 is made 



FIG. 498. — A Two-story Rabbit-hutch with Yard Beneath. 



















































396 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

portable so it may be taken to a place of shelter during 
severe weather, and is provided with a handle at either 
end for convenience in carrying. Then by stretching 
wire netting or wire cloth around the supports, which 
should be 18 inches or more high, a good playground is 
provided in which your “ bunnies ” can be allowed to run 
about for a while each day. This yard is also a conven¬ 
ient place to put them in while you clean out the hutch. 

If you can find a packing-box 18 inches deep, 18 or 20 
inches wide, and 4 feet long, use that for the hutch. 
Remove the boards from one side of the box (which will 
be the front of the hutch), then rip up two of the boards 
removed,., into pieces 3 or 4 inches wide, and nail these 
to the front, one at the top of the box (A, Fig. 499) and 



the other at the bottom B. Upon the inside of the 
back boards, mark out a 14-inch square feed and clean¬ 
out door 6 inches from one end, and a 6-by-io-inch door¬ 
way to the compartments 3 inches from the other end. 
Before cutting out these openings, nail a vertical batten 






































HOUSES FOR PETS 


397 


across the boards each side of the lines to hold the cut 
ends together. 

Cut enough boards of the proper length to make the 
second-story floor, batten them together upon the under 
side, and cut a 5-by-io-inch stairway opening about 18 
inches from one end, and in the center of the width of 
the floor; fasten this to the ends and back of the box 
midway between the top and bottom (C, Fig. 499). Then 
prepare two partitions with an arched doorway about 5 
inches wide and 6 inches high cut in each, and fasten 
one in each story 12 inches away from the compart¬ 
ment end of the hutch (Fig. 499). Cut three trian¬ 
gular pieces and nail one to the top of each end piece 
of the hutch for gable-ends, and one to the top of 
partition D(E , Fig. 499). 

Cut a piece of board 5 inches wide and about 18 inches 
long for stairs, and tack a number of small cross-pieces to 
it to keep the rabbits from slipping while running up 
and down. Hinge the stairs to the second floor with a 
small hinge, or a piece of leather, and leave the lower end 
loose so it may be raised up out of the way every time 
you clean out the first story. 

Board up the front of the compartments (Fig. 498), 
and nail a vertical strip of the same width as the top rail 
A and the bottom rail B (Fig. 499) to the opposite end 
of the hutch. Cover the remainder of the front with wire 
netting or cloth, and tack wooden strips over the edges 
of the wire to conceal the rough ends (Fig. 49^)* 


39 8 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Make the door to the compartments out of a single 
board, and the feed door out of several pieces battened 
together. Hinge the doors in place, and provide them 
with hasps and padlocks, if there is any danger of curious 
ones opening the hutch while you are away. Leather 
strips may be substituted for iron hinges, and wooden 
buttons or hooks may be used in place of hasps, if the 
hutch does not require a padlock. 

For breeding purposes the stairway may be omitted; 
then the doe and her young can be kept by themselves 
in one story; but it is better to build separate one-story 
breeding hutches. 

The Rabbit Yard. As you must know, if you have had 
any experience with raising them, rabbits are great bur- 
rowers and will dig under the walls of any inclosure you 
can build for them, unless you provide a floor or carry 
the walls down below their reach. The best method for 
keeping them within a small yard is to extend the wire 
netting with which you cover the framework about 18 
inches below the surface of the ground. After laying out 
the lines of the framework of the yard, dig a trench on all 
four sides to the required depth, then set up the four 
corner posts, which should be long enough to stand at 
least 18 inches above the ground, and nail on the top 
pieces, the baseboards, and the side braces. Then stretch 
the wire around the framework and tack it in place; at 
the gate end cut the wire off at grade and fasten it to the 
baseboard. Construct the gate as shown, cover it on the 


HOUSES FOR PETS 


399 


outside with netting, hinge it to one of the corner posts, 
and provide it with a hook. 

If the ground where you build the yard is bare, dig up 
some sod and plant it inside of the inclosure, so your 
rabbits will have grass to play in. 

The raising of white rats and fancy mice is a 
profitable business for boys, and it requires very little 
time and an expenditure of only a dollar for a pair 
to start with. 

A Cage for White Rats or fancy mice should be con¬ 
structed out of a box about 14 inches deep, 14 inches 



Fig. 500. — Cage for White Rats. 


wide, and 3 feet long. A good form of cage is shown 
in Fig. 500. Remove one side of the box you have pro* 
cured (this side of the box will be the front of the cage) 
(Fig. 501), then cut two strips 3 inches wide by the length 
of the box inside, and fasten them midway between the 






















400 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Fig. 501. — View of Inside of White Rat Cage showing Arrangement of 
Nest Boxes and Stairs. 

Fig. 502. — Section through the Hinged Top. 


top and bottom of the box, one along the back and the 
other along the front. 

Make a Couple of Nest Boxes as shown in Fig. 503, as 
long as the cage is wide, 5 inches wide (inside), and 4 
inches deep (inside); divide them into two compart¬ 


ments each as shown, and cut 



Fig. 504. 


Fig. 503. — Nest Box for White Rat Cage. 
Fig. 504. — Corner of Front Screen showing 
Frame and Attachment of Wire. 


a doorway i| inches 
in diameter into each 
compartment. Cut a 
board to fit the top of 
each box for a cover, 
and bend a piece of 
wire into the shape of 
a hook (Fig. 503) and 
fasten it in the proper 






















































































HOUSES FOR PETS 


401 


position to hook on to a short nail or screw driven into 
the edge of the cover (Fig. 501). Fasten the nest boxes 
on top of strips A and B , and tack a strip to each end of 
the cage just above the nest box cover to hold down the 
back edge (Fig. 501). When the cover is unhooked, it 
can be slipped from under this strip and removed. 

Make the stairs out of a piece of board 3 inches wide, 
tack cross-pieces to it about 1^ inches apart, and fasten it 
to strip A and to the floor, in the center of the cage. 

Strips A and B , together with the platforms in front of 
the nest boxes, furnish 

An Elevated “ Race-track ” which your rats or mice will 
make good use of, especially the frisky young ones who 
love to chase one another about as well as any children do. 

Galvanized screen wire cloth is the most satisfactory 
covering for the front of the cage, and the best method 
of putting this on is by making a wooden frame out of 
strips 3 inches wide, with the corners mitered and nailed 
together (Fig. 504), and tacking the wire to the inside 
face of this. The frame can be nailed or screwed to the 
cage (Fig. 500). This is a better method than that of 
tacking the wire over the edges of the box, as the wire 
can be stretched tighter and looks neater, and, what is 
more important, it prevents the wire from bulging out 
between the tacks and providing the rats with a chance 
to gnaw away the edge of the box at those points untfl 
the space is big enough to escape through. 

The top of the cage should project about inch over 


402 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


the ends and 2 inches over the front. First nail a hinge- 
strip across the top at the back, then batten together the 
remaining boards, and hinge them to this strip (Fig. 502). 
By driving a staple into the under side of the cover and 
another into the screen frame, so the two will come to¬ 
gether side by side when the top is closed (Fig. 502), 
the cage may be padlocked. 

Paint your Hutches and Cages on the outside, and 
whitewash them on the inside. 

Floor Covering. Cover the floors with a thick layer of 
sawdust, which you can get from a planing-mill; clean 
out the hutches and cages twice a week, and replace the 
old sawdust with fresh, so as to keep conditions sanitary. 

Place hay in the breeding 
compartments for the nests. 

Drinking Receptacles. 
Get a small earthenware 
dish for drinking water. 
This will stand solidly 
upon the floor and not be 
so likely to overturn as a 
cup, bowl, or other recep¬ 
tacle with a small base. 
Use a very shallow dish 
for the rat-cage. 

Fig. 505. —a Pigeon-cote. A Pigeon-cote like the 

one shown in Fig. 505 may be made out of a packing- 
box. Divide it into two stories, by fastening a floor 



















































HOUSES FOR PETS 


403 


midway between the bottom and top, and divide each 
story into two compartments. Nail the cover boards to 
the box, fasten a triangular piece to the top edge of each 
end to form the gables, and then cut and nail the roof 
boards in place. The space between the box cover and 
the roof may be divided into two compartments by 
fastening a triangular piece similar to the gable-ends 
to the cover boards, before nailing on the roof. 

Cut openings through the gable-ends and the sides 
of the box, into the compartments, and fasten perches 
below them. 

The pigeon-cote may be bracketed to a wall or sup¬ 
ported upon a post. 

Other Plans for Pet-shelters will be found in Chapters 
VII and IX of “Outdoor Boy Craftsmen,” and Chap¬ 
ters XXV, XXVI and XXVII of “Big Book of Boys’ 
Hobbies.” 






n 


j—• , 


CHAPTER XXVII 


A. CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND 
HOME-MADE ARMOR 


K 1F~ 


\\MUi 


31 



The castle club-house shown in Fig. 506 is an idea 
which the author has been holding in reserve for you 
for a good many years, for he originated it and carried it 
out on similar lines in his city back yard when a lad. 
The work is not difficult, and the plan may be simplified 
or enlarged upon according to how much time you care 
to spend upon it. A boy’s interest in a thing often 
ceases the moment it is perfected to the point where 
further improvement is impossible, therefore any piece 
of work which will suggest alterations and additions 
from time to time is more acceptable than one which 
does not. It can be said for the castle club-house that 
there are many schemes besides those described in this 
chapter which may be developed by the builders, and 
which will probably suggest themselves. 

Material. As the castle may be built in the corner of 
the back yard, the material for two walls may be saved, 
and the lumber required for the rest of the building will 
cost very little, as you will see by looking at the illustra¬ 
tions. The framework, with the exception of the corner 


404 












































CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 405 

post, is built of boards, the corner turrets of barrels, and 

% 

the sides of box boards and scraps of all sorts of lengths 
and widths. Second-hand lumber can generally be 
bought very cheap wherever a frame building is being 
torn down or remodeled, and this will answer the pur¬ 
pose as well as new material. 

Before starting work it is best to do a little figuring 
on just what you will need, and then sort out all of the 
boards you have succeeded in getting and see if you will 
have enough; if you find that you will not, and there is 
no possibility of procuring more, it will then be an easy 
matter to cut down the dimensions of the castle so that 
you will be able to complete the job. 

The Framework. Mark out the dimensions upon the 
ground and lay a board along the end and side for plates 
upon which to rest the wall framework (A and B , Fig. 
507). Then take a 6-foot piece of 4-by-4-inch stuff, or 
two pieces of 2-by-4-inch stuff spiked together, and 
stand it upon the plates at the corner for a corner post 
C, and brace it temporarily. Cut uprights D and E to 
fit between the fence rails, if the rails happen to be upon 
the inside face of the fence, and nail them to the fence 
directly in line with the corner post. Next, cut the 
horizontal boards F\ G, and /, and nail them to the 
corner post C and the fence uprights D and E , placing 
F and G about 8 inches above the ground-plates, and H 
and / even with the tops of C, D, and E. Boards J and 
K will be necessary only in case boards H and I extend 



406 


Fig. 507.—The Framework of the Castle, showing how it is built of boards, how the barrel turrets are fastened i 

place, and how boxes are fastened between the joists for the treasure vaults. 







































































































































































































































Fig. 506. The Castle Club House, 















CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 407 

above the top of the fence, as in Fig. 507. Cut uprights 
L, My N, O, P, and Q 7 feet 6 inches long, and nail 
them to plates A and /?, and to horizontal pieces P y G, 
H , and/, 11 inches in from the corners formed by boards 
H , /, /, and K ' Cut uprights R and .S 7 feet long, and 
fasten them in the center of the front wall 2 feet apart 
for the entrance jambs, and set upright T in the center 
of the end wall for an intermediate support. 

The Floor Joists, marked U in Fig. 507, are 4-inch 
boards placed on edge, and are fitted between the fence 
and horizontal piece G. If there isn’t a rail on the in¬ 
side face of the fence at the proper height to rest the 
ends of the joists on, nail a horizontal piece to the fence 
for the purpose. 

Before putting on the wall siding, get three barrels for 

The Corner Turrets. Be sure that no hoops are missing 
from these, and nail each stave to each hoop to keep the 
barrels from falling apart. Cut a number of pieces of 
tin about 3 by 5 inches in size, and tack them to the in¬ 
side edge of the tops of the barrels, about 3 inches apart 
(Fig. 509), to form the battlements; then set the barrels 
on boards H\ /, /, and K , between uprights Z, M, N, ( 9 , 
P, and Q , and nail them to these uprights (Fig. 507). 

Board up the Walls regardless of the openings, with 
the exception of the entrance, around which the boards 
may be fitted, and cut the openings afterwards. Cut the 
boards so that each end will strike the center of an up¬ 
right, and use up the short pieces wherever it is possible 


408 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


to do so, in order to save the long pieces for places re¬ 
quiring them. When you are ready 

To cut the Openings, mark them out upon the walls and, 
about \ inch outside of the lines, nail a vertical strip 
across the boards which are to be cut to hold them to¬ 
gether (Fig. 511). The upper row of openings on the 
main walls, and those in the turrets, are painted on the 
wood. 


The Roof. To support the upper end of the roof board¬ 
ing, it will be necessary to nail the horizontal piece V to 



Fig. 508. 

Fig. 508. — How the Roof should be put On. 

Fig. 509. — Construction of the Turret Battlements. 


uprights M , R , S, and W, even with the tops of R and .S'; 
at the sides you will have to fasten the diagonal pieces 
W and X ; and around the barrels extra blocking will be 
required. Figure 508 shows how the roof boarding 
should be laid. First place one layer of boards about 1 


































CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 409 

inch apart, as shown, then cover the spaces between with 
another layer. The best way to make water-tight join¬ 
ings around the barrels and walls is to get some tar paper 
and tack a strip of it to the roof along the walls, lap it up on 
to the walls and barrels, and daub it with tar. But if you 
cannot get the roofing-paper and tar, stuff all the cracks 
with newspaper, using a pointed stick with which to push 
the paper in, and then tack pieces of tin over them and 
lap them up on to the walls and barrels. 

If the Roof leaks a little after you have finished it, do 
not worry; the castle will dry out quickly after a storm, 
inasmuch as the floor is high off the ground with plenty 
of space beneath for the air to circulate. 

The Battlement. This is made by nailing pieces of 
board 6 inches square to the walls, above the roof, as 
shown in Fig. 508. The turret battlements have been 
described. 

The space beneath the floor is plenty large for 

Secret Treasure Vaults, without which, of course, the 
castle would not be complete. Boxes fastened between 
the floor joists, as shown in Fig. 507, will make good 
vaults in which to store the castle’s “ gold, and the floor 
boards over these should be battened together in sections 
so they may be removed to gain access to the vaults. 

The Drawbridge should be 1 inch larger all around than 
the entrance, and its boards should run horizontally and 
be fastened together with battens (Fig. 5 1 0- Cut a piece 
of broom-handle 8 inches longer than the width of the 


4io 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



I® 


/ 


7 


D 

✓ 


& 


entrance (A, Fig. 510), and 
nail it to the lower edge of 
the drawbridge, then make 
a socket for each end of the 
broom-handle to set in, by 
nailing two blocks (.B and 
C , Fig. 510) to the wall 
Fig. 510.— Sockets for the Drawbridge. each s [^ e 0 f the entrance, 

and nailing another block (D) over these to hold the 
broom-handle in place. 

To counterbalance tbe Drawbridge, get two clothes-line 
pulleys, four 
s c r e w-eyes, 
and about 18 
feet of clothes¬ 
line. Bore a 
hole through 
each batten of 
thedrawbridge 
near the end 
(A, Fig. 511), 
cut two slots in 
the castle wall 
above the en¬ 
trance Fig. 

511), screw the 

n . , Fig. 511. 

pulleys into „ 

Fig. 511. — How the Drawbridge is Counterbalanced, 
the lower edge Fig. 512. — Details of Counterbalance. 
























































CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 411 


of the horizontal board Kat C, and two screw-eyes into 
the ceiling at E. 

For the counterbalance take two flour sacks, potato 
sacks, or two pieces of carpet sewed together in the form 
of bags; fill them full of sand or gravel, and tack the top of 
each around a block of wood, in one end of which a screw- 
eye has been screwed (Z 7 , Fig. 512). Cut the clothes-line 


in halves; tie a knot on one 
end of the pieces; pull them 
through holes A as far as 
the knotted ends will per¬ 
mit; run them around the 
ends of the drawbridge, 
up through slots B } over 
pulleys C, through the 
screw-eyes D on the counter¬ 
balances, and through screw- 
eyes E (Fig. 511). Then 
pull up the drawbridge as 
far as it will go, lower the 
counterbalances on the 
ropes until they come within 
about 6 inches of the floor, 
and tie the ropes to screw- 
eyes E ; cut off the ends of 
the rope. 

A Windlass may be sub¬ 
stituted for the counter- 



F IG . 5x3.—Windlass for raising the 
Drawbridge. 

(You may make and use one of these instead 
of the counterbalances shown in Fig. 511.) 

Fig. 514. — Shaft for Stovepipe Drum. 






















































412 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


balances, if you wish to make one. Figure 513 shows a 
simple scheme, requiring a section of stovepipe, a broom* 
handle, a grocery box, and a few boards. Make a shaft 
for the stovepipe out of the broom-handle; cut two disks 
equal to the inside diameter of the stovepipe, bore a hole 
through the center of each large enough for the broom- 
handle to slip through, and fasten these disks to the 
shaft (Fig. 514). Slip the shaft through the section 
of stovepipe, and tack the metal to the wooden disks. 
Mount the completed drum on two board uprights, and 
nail the lower ends of the uprights to the ends of the 
box. Construct a crank for each end of the shaft, fasten 
them in place as shown, and provide a loose pin to run 
through a hole bored through each crank and each up¬ 
right, as a means for locking the windlass; several holes 
bored through each upright will make it possible to lock 
the windlass at any point desired. Tie the ends of the 
ropes leading in from the drawbridge to the drum of the 
windlass, and fasten them to the metal so they will not 
slip. 

As noted in the illustration, the back of the box base 
should be nailed to the rear wall of the castle; also con¬ 
nect the upper portions of the uprights to the walls with 
cross-pieces, to brace them. 

A Moat. Dig a trench around the outside of the base 
for a moat, and your castle will be completed. 

Home-made Armor. Of course you will want some 
armor with which to dress up like a real knight, so I 


CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 413 


have invented for you a home-made helmet, a shield, and 
a sword, which, with the addition of a pair of gauntlets 
and a sweater (this resembles, somewhat, the texture of 
coats of chain mail), will make a fairly complete outfit. 
Figure 515 shows a boy knight equipped with this home¬ 
made armor. 

The Helmet. Get an old worn-out derby hat (Fig. 516); 
remove the brim, sweat-band, and ribbon, make slashes 1 





Figs. 516 to 524. — Details for making the Helmet. 


inch in length in the edge of the felt from the center of 
each side around to the front, and bend up the pieces be¬ 
tween the slashes (Fig. S 1 ?)! cu ^ ^ w0 v * zors ou ^ car< ^' 
















414 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


board (Fig. 518), and glue one of these to the tops of the 
turned-up felt flaps and one to the under sides (Figs. 517 
and 519). For the cape or neck portion of the helmet, 
cut a piece of cardboard to the shape shown in the dia¬ 
gram, and slash the lower edge (Fig. 520); bend this 
piece of cardboard as in Fig. 521, and bend out the pieces 
between the slashes, then coat about 2 inches of the 
top of the cardboard with glue, place it inside of the 
hat and press it against the felt until the glue has set 
(Fig. 523). Prepare the two crown ridge-pieces (Fig. 
522) out of cardboard, glue the pieces together back to 
back, and glue the flaps to the crown of the hat (Fig. 523). 

Cover the helmet with tin-foil; this can be obtained 
from a florist, or from the wrappings of chocolate, etc. 
Glue the tin-foil to the felt and cardboard, and do not 
try to smooth out the wrinkles too particularly, for these 
will give the effect of rich carvings such as you will see 
on ancient helmets. Figure 524 shows our helmet. 

The Shield. Make a bow out of a narrow stick, bend¬ 
ing it so there will be a distance of 2 inches between 
the center of the stick and the bowstring (Fig. 525), 
then cut the shield out of a piece of heavy cardboard 
to the dimensions given in Fig. 526 and tack it to the 
bow. Cut two blocks of wood 4 inches long, and fasten 
a piece of twisted wire to the ends of each with screws 
(Fig. 527) for the arm and hand straps; wrap the wire 
with cord (Fig. 528), and tack the shield to these blocks. 
Remove the bowstring and cut off the ends of the bow 



Fig. 531. The Trombone. 



Fig. 532. Tiie Bass Horn. Fig. 530. The Cornet. 
Figs. 530-532. Home-Made Instruments for a Boys’ Band. 














CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 415 

even with the cardboard; then cover the shield with 
tin-foil or silver paper. 

The Sword. Cut this about 3 feet long, with a blade 
i-| inches wide, as shown in Fig. 529. First bore a \- 
inch hole through the stick, 6 inches from one end, then 
whittle the handle round and bevel off the sides of the 
blade until the edges are sharp. Drive a piece of iron 
rod of the size marked through the hole in the handle, 
for the hilt of the sword; then cover the hilt, handle, and 
the entire blade with tin-foil or silver paper. 



Fig. 526. 


Fig. 529. 


Figs. 525 to 528. — Details of Shield. Fig. 529. Sword. 


















The neighborhood parade would be headed by a boys’ 
band, no doubt, were it not for the lack of instruments. 
This need suggested to the author the idea of devising 
the home-made cornet, trombone, bass horn, fife, and bass 
drum shown in the illustrations upon the following pages. 
They are imitation instruments, to be sure, but they will 
make plenty of noise, and music, too, if they are properly 
handled. The notes are produced on the horns by the 
variation of the voice, and not by the manipulation of 
keys, so it will be easy for any boy who can carry tunes 
by ear to play them without having to do very much prac¬ 
ticing. If you are not familiar with the tones of the in¬ 
struments, you can soon become so by listening to the 
playing of a real band. 

The entire band equipment can be completed in a 
couple of days, if each boy makes his own instrument, and 
the material should cost but very little, as much of it can be 
found about the house; most likely something that you will 
need can be supplied by one of the other boys, in exchange 
for which you can give him something that he wants. 

416 







































A BOYS’ BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 417 

The Cornet (Fig. 530). Procure a quart-size tin funnel 
for the bell of the cornet and several feet of round stick 
\ inch in diameter for tubing; for this some old flagstaffs 
can be used, or cabinet-maker’s ^-inch dowel sticks can be 
purchased for a few cents a stick. The curved tubing 
can be formed of rubber tubing as is shown in the illus¬ 
tration (Fig. 533), or by bending a piece of tree branch 



to the proper shape (Fig. 538). The lengths of the 
straight tubing are marked on the diagram, and the pieces 
are lettered in the order in which they should be assem¬ 
bled. If rubber tubing is used for the ends, run several 
pieces of heavy wire through it to give it proper stiffness 
(see dotted lines C and //, Fig. 533). Bore holes in the 
ends of the wooden tubing where indicated, and whittle 
pegs to fit them and the rubber tubing. Fasten the pegs 
in place with glue, and fasten the other pieces with brads. 
Drive rug tacks (Fig. 533 ) i n t° tbe en< ^ s key lubes 

for keys. A “kazoo” is necessary for a mouthpiece. 
This little instrument, shown in the illustration, will cost 
a dime, and can be purchased from any music dealer; if 
he does not carry it in stock, he can procure it for you in 






















4 i8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

a few days’ time. Fasten the kazoo in place by means 
of a wooden peg ; then — as you have stopped up its end 
— it will be necessary to puncture three holes in the top 
as shown. 

When the tubing, keys, bell, and mouthpiece have 
been put together, procure some tin-foil from empty 
cigar boxes, buy some from a florist, or get several 5-cent 
sheets of silver paper at a stationery store. Cut the tin- 
foil or silver paper into short pieces, and paste these 
around the tubing; after sticking it in place, rub each 
piece with a clean rag to remove all wrinkles. Do the 
work carefully, as the appearance of the cornet will de¬ 
pend largely upon the neatness with which you cover it. 



The Trombone (Fig. 531) requires a two-quart tin 
funnel for its bell and a kazoo for a mouthpiece. 
Figure 534 shows the details for the main portion of the 
trombone. The large tubing is made of a broom-handle, 
the smaller tubing of ^--inch sticks, and the curved ends 
as described for the Cornet . 
























A BOYS’ BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 419 

The pieces are lettered in the order in which they 
should be put together, and their lengths are marked. 
Bore all the holes shown or indicated by dotted lines, of 
the proper size for the smaller tubing to fit into. Cut B 
and b in one piece, and do not separate them until after 
you have bored a hole in the end 2 inches deep, which 
will run entirely through b and \ inch into the end of B . 
The idea is to hinge G between b and B. The screw- 
eye in the end of G should be -J inch in diameter, inside. 
Cover the end of tube H with glue, run it through b } 
through the screw-eye in G } and into the hole in B. 
Wrap the end of the kazoo with paper, and glue it in the 
hole bored in the end of /. Make a gimlet hole in / as 
shown, to let out the tone from the kazoo. 

Figure 535 shows the completed trombone slide , and 
Fig. 536 the first step in making it. Cut a number 



of strips of newspaper about 3 inches wide and a -J- 
inch stick about 30 inches long; wrap the stick with a 
dry strip of paper, then on top of this wrap strips soaked 
in paste, and gradually build up the tubing until it is as 


























420 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


thick as the broom-handle tubing (Fig. 537). Let the 
tubing dry thoroughly, then pull out the stick and prepare 
another tube similarly. The curved end O (Fig. 535) 
may be made out of a tree branch (Fig. 538) or out of 
rubber tubing (Fig. 533). Fasten P between M and 
iVwitb brads (Fig. 535). Screw a screw-eye 1 inch in 
diameter (inside) into each end of Q (Fig. 539), and slip 
them over the paper tubing (Fig. 535). When all the pieces 

have been put together properly, 
cover the tubing with silver paper. 

The Bass Horn (Fig. 532) is made 
out of a brass phonograph horn 
and a piece of an old garden-hose. 
If you haven’t an old phonograph 
from which you can take the horn, 
you can probably pick up a horn at 
a second-hand store for half a dollar. 
The length of this horn will deter¬ 
mine the length of the hose tubing, 
also that of A and B , but you can 
follow Fig. 540 in working out the 
proportions of the instrument. The 
horn shown in the illustration is 
28 inches long, and the garden-hose is 7 feet 6 inches long. 
The detail shows how the hose should be fastened at C , D , 
E, F, G, H, and /, and that rug tacks are driven into the 
ends of tubes /, K, and L. The full tone of the horn can be 
produced by the voice, as the hose tubing is unobstructed. 



Fig. 540. — Detail of Bass 
Horn. 




























A BOYS’ BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 


421 


As you probably know, whistling upon the edge of a 
card makes a pretty fair imitation of 

A Fife; we will use this same principle in making our 
fife shown in Fig. 541. Cut a triangular piece of tin, 


bend up one corner, and 
tack it through this corner 
to a stick 13 inches long, 
2 inches from one end. 
of tin blunt and smooth. 


4 


3 L 


& 


Fig. 543. — The 
Drum Stick. 


Fig. 541. — The Fife. 

File the edge of the piece 
Bore six “ finger holes ” in 
the stick as shown, and cover it with 
tin-foil or silver paper. 

Figure 542 shows 

The Bass Drum, and Fig. 544 the 
detail of its framework. Procure eight 
barrel hoops for the framework; also 
a small drum. Soak four of the hoops 
in water, then bend them out and 
fasten them together so as to make 
two hoops 30 or 34 inches in diameter. 
Place the drum in the exact center 
of one hoop, and fasten strips A, B , 
C, and D around it (Fig. 544). Brace 
the other hoop with strip E , then con¬ 
nect the two hoops with 12-inch strips 
placed horizontally as shown. Fasten the small drum 
in place with cords (Fig. 544 )* Cover the entire frame¬ 
work with wrapping-paper, then cut away the portion 
covering the head of the small drum (Fig. 54 2 )- Nail 



Fig. 542. — The Bass 
Drum. 
















422 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


the four remaining barrel hoops around the bass drum 
for rims. 

Use small staples for the brace-cord hooks (Fig. 545); 
cut the braces out of canvas by the pattern of Fig. 546, 



and sew edge A to edge B. Get heavy wrapping cord 
for the brace cord, and lace it back and forth around the 
drum, as shown in Fig. 542. Screw a screw-eye into 
each rim from which to attach a rope or tape sling (Fig. 

542)- 

For Cymbals procure two pot covers; mount one on a 
spool upon the drum framework (Fig. 547), and fasten a 
knob (Fig. 548) to the top of the other for a handle (Fig. 
549). Pot-cover knobs such as that shown can be bought 
at any hardware store at 5 cents apiece. 

Saw off a 14-inch piece from the end of a broom- 
handle for 








































A BOYS’ BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 423 


The Drum-stick; cut a hole in an old tennis-ball for 
it to run through, and drive a nail through the ball into 
the end of the stick (Fig. 543). 

Snare Drums can be easily made by stretching canvas or 
heavy cloth over cheese boxes, but real drums will help 
to tone up the band and should be used if you can get 
them. 

The Drum Major (Fig. 550). Choose for your drum- 
major the boy who can twirl a stick the best. 

If an old fur muff can be had, it will make 

A Splendid “ Bearskin ” Cap; sew a piece of elastic to 
one end of it to go around the chin (Fig. 551). In case 



Fig. 550.—The Fig. 553. Fig. 555. 

Drum Major. Figs. 551 to 557. — Details of Drum Major’s Outfit. 

you cannot get a muff, make a cardboard cylinder 
10 inches in diameter and 12 inches high, and fasten a 



































424 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


circular piece of cardboard to the top (Fig. 552); then 
cover it with cotton (Fig. 553). 

Cut a piece of broom-handle 3 feet long for 

The Drum Major’s Staff, paint it black, and screw to 
the head a brass ball from a curtain-pole (Fig. 554); 
then wrap the joint between the ball and piece of broom- 
handle with cord until it is filled out, as shown in Fig. 555, 
and cover the cord with a band of tin-foil. Figure 556 
shows 

The Major’s Whistle; with this he signals the band 
to play. Any toy whistle will do. 

Uniforms. The drum major may wear boots if he 
has a pair, but these are not necessary. He should 
have a red or blue sash tied across his breast, and red 
braid stripes pinned down his trousers legs and around 
his cuffs. Small safety-pins may be sewed to the stripes 
so they can be attached quickly. Figure 557 shows the 
way to make the epaulets. Cut a cardboard form similar 
to A y pad it on top with cotton, and cover it with red 
cloth; then cut fringe out of yellow cloth B and sevf 










A BOYS’ BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 425 


it to the edge C. Sew a small safety-pin to the under 
side of A. 

Figures 530, 531, and 532 will suggest the uniforms 
for the other band musicians — a soldier cap, a pair of 
epaulets made similar to the drum major’s (see Fig. 557), 
and red braid stripes for the cuffs and trousers legs. 

Now, boys, get to work and organize your band, and 
after the instruments have been made and you have 
given a public performance, write and tell me how you 
succeeded. When your town has a parade on some 
special occasion, probably you can get permission to 
head the procession, and when you boys have a vaude¬ 
ville, a circus, or any kind of a show or entertainment, 
the band will fill the requirements of an orchestra. 









XXIX 

A PROFILE FUSELAGE 
GLIDER MODEL 



You will like this little glider, whether you are a 
beginner or old-timer in the model game. If you are a 
beginner, the simplicity of its construction will appeal 
to you. If you are an old-timer, its neat performance 
will appeal to you. It is a small, all-balsa job, with a 
12-inch wing span, and it weighs only one-sixteenth 
ounce. A smaller model with a wing span of io inches 
and a larger model with a wing span of 14 inches can 
also be built. 

The PFG-33 profile-fuselage glider is an excellent 
model for parlor performances. Carry one in your 
pocket, knocked down, between stiff cardboards. 
Launch it at a party. Adjust the wing and tail for 
inside loops, for outside loops, for vertical banks, and 
other airplane stunts, and watch the fun. 

This baby ship, from the model-airplane laboratory 
of B. C. Friedman, director of handicraft of the South 
Parks system, Chicago, qualifies for both outdoor and 
indoor flights. 

It may be launched in three ways—hand thrown, 

426 


































PROFILE FUSELAGE GLIDER MODEL 


427 


with a tow-line, and by kite release. The photograph 
of Fig- 55 8 shows a hand launching. 

The Wing. Figure 562 of the diagrams shows the 
PFG-33 with a flat wing , and Fig. 563 shows it with a 



cambered wing. The latter wing is as easy to build as 
the former. Wing dimensions are given on the plan 
(Fig. 565). But to save you the work of laying this 
out, a full-size pattern of one-half of the wing is given 
in Fig. 567. Make a tracing of this, and lay it off each 





























428 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


side of a center-line drawn upon a piece of cardboard. 
Cut out this cardboard templet and mark around it on 
a piece of balsa ^ inch thick. Sharp scissors will cut 
thin balsa as easily as paper. But you may prefer to 




use a safety-razor blade. When you have cut out the 
wing, sandpaper its surfaces to taper from a thickness of 
^2 inch at the leading-edge to a feather edge at the 
trailing-edge. Use No. oo sandpaper for the job. 


























PROFILE FUSELAGE GLIDER MODEL 


429 


If You Make a Flat Wing, give it a dihedral angle 
(Fig. 566). Place the wing upon a table, press the edge 
of airuler across the center to score the wood, and bend 
up one tip until the dihedral is correct. A thin coat 
of cement applied to both sides of the wing, at the 
center, will fix the angle. 

If You Prefer a Cambered Wing, shape it over a pair of 
rib-blocks, as shown in Fig. 571. Cut the blocks of the 
shape and size shown in Fig. 572, and cement them 
to the under side of the wing a trifle less than ^ Inch 
apart, so that the fuselage will make a slip-fit between 
them. Mark the positions for the ribs, then cement 
the ribs one at a time. Coat the edge with cement, 
bend the wing to the curve and hold until the cement 
has set. 

Figure 573 shows the tail assembly. Make 

The Stabilizer out of a piece of balsa ^4 inch thick. 
You can cut it out of a thicker piece, then reduce it 
with sandpaper. A full-size pattern is given in Fig.568, 
to simplify laying it out. Make a tracing of the pattern, 
and prepare a cardboard templet from the tracing. 
When you have cut out the balsa stabilizer, sandpaper 
its surfaces from ^4 inch at the leading-edge to paper 
thickness at the trailing-edge. 

The Fin is of the shape and size of one-half of the 
stabilizer. Lay it out with the stabilizer cardboard tem¬ 
plet, or prepare a separate templet from the pattern in 
Fig. 569. Cement the fin along the center of the stabilizer. 


FUSELAGE 



Figs. 567-570. — Full-size Patterns of Wing, Stabilizer, Fin, and Fuselage. 

430 


STABILIZER 













u, 

O 

-t-> 

a 

aj 

u 

H 

u 

O 

O 

TJ 

c 

I—H 

f 

H T3 
' o 

« s 

H 


a> 

ba 

Hj 

(A 

3 

Oh 

jy 

<2 

o 

u 

Oh 

fO 

ro 

6 

Oh T3 
Oh 

o 

a> ^ 
js 

h 


00 

LO 

UO 

6 
I—I 

Oh 


Fig. 560. — Steps in Carving Fig. 561. —The IF-32 Indoor Fuselage 

a Propeller. Model. 








































. 






















































PROFILE FUSELAGE GLIDER MODEL 


43i 


For the tail mounting, cement a pair of small blocks 
to the under side of the stabilizer, along the center, with 
just enough space between them for the fuselage to 
make a slip fit (Fig. 573). 

The Fuselage is shown full size in the pattern of 
Fig. 570. Lay it out upon a piece of balsa ^ inch thick. 
It will make a stronger nose to omit the cockpit opening. 
You can mark it instead of cutting it. 


Attach Rib Blocks at 
center of wing. 
Space them so 
fuselage will 
wake q 
slip-fit 
between 



r—'I'—1 



“* v ig Camber 


^ -t~ X " /. 
16 x/e x/ 

Blocks 


Fig. 571. — Fig. 572. — Fig. 573. — 

Wing Rib Blocks. Pattern for Blocks. Tail Assembly. 


Shape the Nose Hook out of a wire paper-clip (Fig. 
564). This will serve the double purpose of weighting 
the nose and providing a tow-line hook. Slip the paper¬ 
clip over the fuselage, with the hook projecting as 
shown in Figs. 562 and 563. 

Wing and Tail Bands will not be necessary for straight 
gliding, if the fuselage fits snugly between the wing and 
tail blocks. But they will be needed for adjustments 
for stunting. The rubber for bands should be very 
thin. The strands from a golf ball are just right. Form 
bands of the right size to pass under the fuselage and 
loop over the wing and the stabilizer, as shown in Figs. 
558, 562, and 565. 




43 2 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


For Inside Loops, the positive angle of incidence of the 
wing and tail surfaces must be increased. To increase 
it, prepare balsa wedges small enough to slip between 
the wing rib-blocks and the tail-blocks, at the leading- 
edge, as indicated in Fig. 563. 



FlG.^574. — Launch a pair of Gliders from a kite. 
(For Plans for the Conyne Kite shown above, see 
Chapter XVIII of “Big Book of Boys’ Hobbies.”) 


For Outside Loops, a negative angle of incidence is 
necessary. Produce it by slipping the wedges between 
the wing rib-blocks and the tail-blocks at the trailing- 
edge, as indicated in Fig. 563. 

Tuning the Glider. With the glider assembled, try it 
out without the incidence wedges, for a level flight. 
Place the wing and tail in the positions indicated in 































































































PROFILE FUSELAGE GLIDER MODEL 


433 


Fig. 558- Then, if the model dives at a steep angle, 
move the wing a trifle forward, or, if it climbs steeply, 
stalls and slips back, move the wing a trifle back. 
When you have found the correct adjustment, mark 
the wing’s position upon the fuselage. 

For Launching with a Tow-line, shape a small ring out of 
music wire, to slip over the glider nose-hook, and attach 
a length of cotton thread to the ring (Fig. 563). For 
indoor launching, make the tow-line 10 or 12 feet long. 
For outdoor launching, make it as long as you like. To 
launch, have some one hold the glider until you give 
the signal to release it. With practice you will acquire 
the knack of manipulating the tow-line with a quick 
pull, to start the model in an inside or outside loop. 

For Launching from a Kite, sew small wire rings to the 
upper edge of a kite, for the nose-hooks to engage. 
Figure 574 shows a pair of gliders in contact with a 
Conyne kite. This is a good model to use. Plans for 
building it are given in Chapter XVIII of “Big Book 
of Boys’ Hobbies.” 

With the gliders in position, launch the kite, playing 
out the line carefully to avoid dives. When an altitude 
of about 200 feet has been reached, manipulate the 
line so that the glider or gliders will be shaken free. Then 

An Aerial Circus Performance will begin, and if you have 
adjusted one glider for inside loops, the other glider for 
outside loops, you will enjoy a minute or more of 
realistic stunting. 



The IT-31 indoor tractor flying-stick model shown 
in the photograph of Fig. 559 has been designed with 
an outrigger tail. This feature has been adopted for 



Fig. 575. — The IT-31 Indoor Tractor is a Stick model with Tail Outrigger. 

duration-contest models because it makes possible a 
longer ship without exceeding the 15-inches motor limit, 
or whatever the contest rules may specify. It throws 
the center of gravity well forward, makes for greater 
stability, and produces a smoother, slower flight, most 
important in a model built for duration. This model also 
features a stabilizer built with reverse camber on its ribs. 


434 



































INDOOR TRATOR MODEL AIRPLANE 


435 


The IT-31 model was designed by B. C. Friedman, 
director >o{ model aeronautics, of the South Parks 
System, Chicago. You will find it a simple job, pro¬ 
vided that you have learned to work carefully and 
accurately. 

Material for the Model .includes the following: 

1 piece balsa J" by by 16" for motor base 

1 piece balsa by J" by 6" for outrigger spar 

2 pieces balsa by by i8| // for wing spars, or 

4 pieces balsa £■" by tV" by 9^" for wing spars 

2 pieces balsa ye" by by 7" for stabilizer spars 

5 pieces balsa by ^" by 12" for ribs and fin frame 

or 

I piecebalsa -h" by 2" by 12" from which to cut above strips 
1 piece balsa f" by 1" by 11" for propeller blank 
Japanese tissue-paper for papering 
No. 10 music wire for metal fittings 
Thrust washers 

30 inches rubber ■&" by f " for motor 
Cement and banana oil. 

Figure 575 of the diagrams shows the completed 
model. First, prepare 

The Motor Base. Cut it of the size shown in Fig. 576, 
and notch the rear end on the under edge to admit the 
outrigger spar. Cut the 

Outrigger Spar of the size shown in Fig. 577, and taper 
| inch of the rear end on which to mount the edge of 
the stabilizer. Cement the spar in the notch of the 
motor base, as shown in Fig. 578. 

The Motor Fittings are shown mounted upon the motor 
base in Figs. 578 and 579. Dimensions for shaping 
them are given in Figs. 581 to 587. Make them of 


43 6 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


No. io music wire, using a pair of round-nosed pliers 
for cutting and shaping the wire. Make the propeller 
bearing of the shape and size shown in the front and 
side views of Fig. 581, with the eye round and just large 
enough for the propeller-shaft to turn in. Make the 
rear hook of the shape and size shown in Fig. 582, with 


■3 strands l /32"x '/d"rubber 


MOTOR RUBBER 




Propeller bearing. 


Fig. 580. 

\>r -Reor hook 


CThread 


MOTOR FITTINGS 


Thread ^'' outrigger spar^ 


£Propeller bearing 


I- 


- 8 - 


ll/~l/4’‘ x ^/Q" thick 


Fig. 579. 




Can 


Rear hook 


MOTOR BASE 

ASSEMBLY 


3 ^ 


k 


I" 

8 


OUTRIGGER SPAR 
- 6 "- 


T 


16 "- 


Fig. 578. 


8 ^ 


OUTRIGGER SPAR ±n±n 


id Fig 
J 577 




N ! 




MOTOR BASE 
Fig. 576. 


Fig. 576. — Motor Base. Fig. 577. — Outrigger Bar. 

Fig. 578. — Motor Base and Outrigger Assembly. 

Fig. 579. — Motor Fittings Mounted. Fig. 580. — Motor Rubber. 


the eye just large enough for the S-hook to slip into. 
Two views of the S-hook are shown in Fig. 583. Make 
its eye just large enough to slip the motor rubber loop 
into. Shape a can , or motor-rubber support, of the 
size shown in the front and side views of Fig. 584. 

To mount the propeller bearing and rear motor-hook, 
coat them with cement, and push the lower tip into the 
upper edge of the motor base in the positions indicated 

































INDOOR TRACTOR MODEL AIRPLANE 


437 


in Fig. 579. Tie a loop of No. 50 cotton thread around 
them and the motor base, as shown, for reenforcement, 
and coat the loops with cement. Mount the can at the 
center of the motor base (Fig. 578). Cement the lower 
loop to the side of the stick. 



Fig. 585. Fig. 583. 



Fig. 586. Fig. 587 

Figs. 581-587. —iMetal Fittings for the IT-31 Model. 

Make the propeller-shaft of the length given in Fig. 
585, with the end loop shaped as shown. You can make 
a thrust washer by cutting a tiny disk of thin brass, and 
punching a hole through its center with a phonograph 
needle. But you will probably prefer to buy half a 
dozen or so die-cut washers for your models. 









































43 8 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


The front wing-clip is shown in Fig. 586, and the rear 
wing-clip in Fig. 587. You can shape them while mak¬ 
ing the other metal fittings, or wait until after you have 
completed the wing. The small loops, or feet, are to 
be cemented to the wing spars. The center loop must 
be just right for a slip-fit over the motor-base, and it 
should knee-in a trifle at the top, as shown. 



Fig. 588. — Plan of Wing of the IT-31 Indoor Tractor Model. 

Fig. 589. — Leading-edge of Wing, showing Dihedral, Wash-in and Clips. 

Fig. 590. — You can make Wing Spars of Two Pieces, and join them this way. 


The Wing of the IT-31 indoor tractor is simpler to 
frame than the type of wing with bamboo tips and 
bamboo ribs. The spars and ribs are of balsa. The 
platvof Fig. 588 gives the dimensions. Unless you buy 
ready-cut strips, lay them out upon a strip of balsa 
inch thick, and cut them with a ruler and safety- 
razor blade. 

The Ribs are cambered. Full-size patterns are 




























INDOOR TRACTOR MODEL AIRPLANE 


439 


shown in Fig. 591. Strips of the correct width and 
thickness can be steamed, then bent over a lighted lamp 
bulb. But it is easier to cut the ribs with the camber 
on them, and this type of rib holds its shape. The 
cutting must be done carefully, because the grain of 
the balsa will cross the rib ends, and the ends will split 
off easily. Make cardboard templets for the ribs, 
following the full-size patterns. 

The Spars may be of single strips, or two strips joined 
at the center. One-piece spars must be bent at the 
center. Hold the strips over the spout of a steaming 
teakettle, to make the wood pliable. Place them, one 
at a time, upon your bench, hold the edge of a table 
knife across the center, raise one end of the spar gently 
until the distance between the tip and the bench is 
2§ inches, and slip a block under the spar to support 
it (Fig. 589). Then raise the other end of the spar the 
required distance, and prop it in the same way. Put 
a drop of cement on the center bend, let it' set, then put 
another drop upon the under side of the bend. The 
cement will reenforce the bend and fix the angle. 

The two-piece spar is as satisfactory as the one-piece 
spar, and it is preferred by many model makers. To 
prepare it, trim off the inner end of two spar sticks as 
shown in Fig. 590, so that when you butt them together 
they will form the correct dihedral. Give the bevelled 
ends a thin coating of cement, for a priming coat, and 
let it set. Then apply a second coat, press the ends 


440 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

together, check up the measurements between the tips 
and the workbench, and hold the spars until the cement 
has set. 

A Wash-in. The left half of the leading-edge spar 
must have a \ inch greater bend than the right half 
(Fig. 589). This bend, or wash-in, is necessary to offset 
the twist or torque produced by the right-hand propeller. 



The Wing Assembly. With the spars shaped, cement 
end ribs A between their ends. Then cement center 
rib E between the exact centers, and ribs B , C and D 
with equal spacing. Cement tip braces F between ribs 
A and B. 

To Paper the Wing, cut a piece of Japanese tissue-paper 
a trifle larger than the wing area, and iron it smooth. 
Coat the center rib with banana oil, place the center 
of the tissue-paper over it, and press it down. Then, 








INDOOR TRACTOR MODEL AIRPLANE 


441 


working toward one tip, coat the spars and ribs with 
banana oil, stretch the paper taut, press it down, and 





STABILIZER RIB 

Fig. 593. 



ik"4"SPAR> 


'32"4"ribs 



U 



Fig. 592. 



Fig. 592. — Plan of Stabilizer Frame. 
Fig. 593. — Stabilizer Rib. 

Fig. 594. — Fin Frame. 

Fig. 595. — Outrigger Assembly. 

Fig. 596. — Warp on Tip of Fin. 


work out the wrinkles. In the same way, fasten the 
other half of the paper. When you have papered the 
wing, trim the edges of the paper close to the spars and 









































442 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


end ribs with a safety-razor blade. Only the upper 
surface of the frame is to be papered. 

^Having papered the wing, cement the wing-clips to 
the spars, as indicated in Figs. 588 and 589. 




Figs. 597-602. — Steps in Carving the Propeller. 


Build the Stabilizer and the Fin in the same way as the 
wing. Figure 592 shows a plan of the stabilizer frame. 
Figure 593 shows a rib with its reverse camber. Figure 
594 shows the fin frame. Assemble the frames and 
paper them on one side. 












INDOOR TRACTOR MODEL AIRPLANE 


443 


Mount the Stabilizer upon the beveled end of the out¬ 
rigger spar, as shown in Fig. 595, and cement the bottom 
of the fin across its center. Then breathe upon the top 
of the fin, and gently warp it to the left, a distance of 
fe inch, as indicated in Fig. 596. The warp will help 
the plane to circle to the left. 

The Propeller requires an 11-inch block of the width 
and thickness shown in Fig. 597. After squaring up 
the block to the given dimensions, draw diagonals 
through the corners, upon opposite faces, and push a 
pin through the centers to make a shaft hole. Draw a 
line one-sixteenth inch each side of the center, parallel 
to the side edges, to mark off a hub -§ inch across 
(Fig. 597). Then with a coping-saw or sharp knife cut 
the edges of the block along the diagonal lines. This 
will give the block the shape shown in Fig. 598. Next, 
draw a diagonal line across the block ends, from corner 
to corner, in the directions indicated in Fig. 598, and 
you will be ready to start the carving. 

Carving. First, cut away the wood on opposite edges, 
as indicated in Fig. 599, a little at a time, until you have 
reached a point about ^ inch above the end diagonal 
lines. Even off the surfaces, then smooth them with 
fine sandpaper, and make them slightly spoon-shaped, 
or cambered (Fig. 600). 

Invert the block, and carve the edges as you did the 
opposite face edges, to within y& inch of the end 
diagonals. Even off the surfaces, and sandpaper them 


444 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


slightly convex. Then reduce the thickness of the 
blades to about £2 inch, by rubbing down the surfaces 
with fine sandpaper. Also reduce the width of the hub 
to fg inch, and its thickness to -f inch. Cut away the 
hub upon the trailing-edge. 

The photograph of Fig. 560 shows more clearly the 
shape of the block after the completion of each step of 
the carving process. 

To Mount the Propeller, slip the shaft through the hub, 
bend over the end, cement it, and draw it back into the 
wood. One thrust washer is sufficient, but two or three 
are often used, in which case one of them is cemented 
to the hub. 

The Motor for the IT-31 model requires 30 inches 
of £2 inch by inch flat rubber (Fig. 580). This will 
make three continuous strands. Make a firm knot in 
the ends of the rubber, place the knot at the S-hook, 
and slip the loop over the propeller shaft. Slip the 
S-hook through the eye of the rear motor-hook. 

Tuning the Model. To tune the model for a flight, 
place the wing in about the position shown in Fig. 575, 
and test out as a glider. If it dives at a steep angle, 
move the wing a trifle forward, because it is under¬ 
elevated. But if it climbs steeply, then stalls and slips 
back, move the wing back, because it is over-elevated. 
You will soon find the point at which the model glides 
on an even keel. By raising and lowering the rear wing 
clip, you can obtain a fine variation in elevation. 


I 




j—UjWhT \ 



r 1 


’ CHAPTER XXXI 

AN INDOOR FUSELAGE 
MODEL AIRPLANE 


As has been aptly suggested by a builder of the IF-32 
model shown in the photograph of Fig. 561 and the 
diagram of Fig. 603, the IF stands not only for “Indoor 
Fuselage” but also “I fly.” This is to the point. You 
may undertake this job with the assurance that it 
will fly and fly well, if you will follow carefully the 
diagrams and instructions for assembling. This cannot 
be said of all fuselage models. Many that are trim and 
fine to look upon are incorrectly proportioned and too 
heavy for performance. 

The IF-32 is another model from the laboratory of 
B. C. Friedman, director of model aeronautics of the 
South Parks System, Chicago, and developer of several 
holders of national championships in model building. 

The IF-32 is a balsa and paper model with a wing¬ 
span of 24 inches and a fuselage 16 inches long. It tips 
the scales at slightly less than \ ounce. You will find 
it one of the simplest of fuselage models, and if you are 

skillful, you can complete it in a day's time. 

445 





























446 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


The Material includes the following: 

6 pieces balsa by by i6J" for fuselage longerons and 
formers 

3 pieces balsa by by 12" for wing spars and landing-gear 
struts 

5 pieces balsa -£$" by by 12" for wing ribs and [stabilizer and 

fin frames 

1 piece balsa by £" by 4" for incidence blocks, tail spar and 

skid, 

or 

2 pieces balsa by 2" ‘by 16^", from which to cut above strips 
1 piece balsa J" by 1^" by 10" for propeller blank 

Japanese tissue-paper for papering 
No. 8 music wire for metal fittings 
Thrust washers 

31 inches flat rubber by J" for motor 

12 inches rubber by (golf ball rubber) for wing-bands 

Cement and banana oil 



Begin the IF-32 model by building 
The Fuselage Framework. A detail of the assembly is 
shown in Fig. 604. It consists of two side frames like 
















INDOOR FUSELAGE MODEL AIRPLANE 


447 


that in Fig. 605, joined with horizontal formers . The 
balsa used for the longerons and formers should be of a 
hard grade of balsa. If the balsa you buy is soft, in¬ 
crease the width and thickness of the strips a trifle. If 
you purchase the balsa in wide pieces instead of in 
strips of the specified dimensions, get it in pieces inch 
thick. Rip it into strips ^ inch wide for the longerons 
and formers, using a ruler for a straight-edge and a 
safety-razor blade to cut with. 



Fig. 604. — Fuselage Framework of the IF-32 Model ready for Papering. 


To simplify the assembling of the side frames, a full- 
size pattern is shown in Fig. 634. This is shown in four 
pieces. With a piece of transparent paper, make care¬ 
ful tracings with pencil and ruler. Join the longeron 
ends A of the first part to ends A of the second part, 
then join ends B of the second part to ends B of the third 
part, and join ends C of the third part to ends C of the 
fourth part. Your full-size frame pattern will then be 
complete. Paste it to a smooth board, and then build 
a side frame upon it, longeron upon longeron and former 
upon former. Notch the upper edge of the lower 











448 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

longeron slightly, at the point where it turns up, and 
bend it to the angle of the pattern. In assembling a 
frame, first lay the longerons upon the pattern and hold 
them with pins or brads driven each side of them. Cut 
former strips A and B (Fig. 605) to fit between the 
longerons, and cement them in place. Then cut the 
intermediate formers and cement them in their positions. 

Use ambroid or similar cement, rather than glue, for 



Fig. 605. — Plan of Fuselage Side Frames of the IF-32 Model. 

Fig. 606. — Build the Frames one upon another, then separate them. 


assembling the frames, because it sets more quickly, 
makes stronger joints, and is lighter in weight. 

When you have completed one frame, build the 
second frame on top of it, as shown in Fig. 606, in order 
to get the pair identical. Then run a safety-razor blade 
between the frames, as indicated, to dislodge any cement 
that may bind the pair together. 

As you will see by Fig. 604, there is a side taper to the 
nose of the fuselage. Steam the longerons at the point 
where the taper begins, and bend carefully. 





































INDOOR FUSELAGE MODEL AIRPLANE 


449 


To connect the frames, stand them as shown in Fig. 
604, and cement the formers C and D between them. 
The lengths of these strips are given in Fig. 604. Then 
cut the intermediate formers and cement them in place. 

Paper the Fuselage with Japanese tissue-paper, using 
banana oil for adhesive. Cut strips of the paper a 
trifle larger than each side, the top and the bottom. 
Smooth them with a heated iron. Then, beginning at 
one end of the framework, coat the longerons and 
formers of one side with banana oil, lay the paper down, 



Fig. 607. — Plan of Half of Wing Frame. 


stretch it tightly and rub out wrinkles. In this way, 
coat and cover one section at a time, until the opposite 
end of the fuselage framework is reached. Then trim 
off the edges of the paper with a safety-razor blade. 

The Wing. You will find it easier to construct the 
wing frame in halves (Fig. 607) and join the halves, 
than to build it in one piece. Cut the spars of the size 
shown in Fig. 607. Cut the ribs out of balsa ^ inch 
thick, of the dimensions shown in the full-size pattern 
of Fig. 608. Instead of bending the ribs to give them 
camber, cut them of the correct shape, with the grain 



















450 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


of the wood running horizontally. Make a cardboard 
templet of the shape of the pattern, then mark out 
around it upon a piece of balsa, placing one rib below 
another, as indicated in Fig. 609, and cut with a razor- 
blade. Mark the positions for the ribs upon the spars, 
and cement the ribs in place. 



Fig. 608. 



Fig. 608. — Full-size Pattern of Rib. 

Fig. 609. — Ribs can be Cut out in this Manner. 

Fig. 610. — Sections through Wing at Center. 

Figs. 6ii and 612. — Wing-Incidence Blocks. 

To Join the Wing Halves, block them up as in Fig. 613, 
so that the trailing-edge and the right leading-edge tips 
are inches above your work-bench, and so that the 
left leading-edge tip is 1J inches above the bench. This 
will give the left tip of the wing a |-inch wash-in , to 
offset the torque , or twist, produced by a right-hand 
propeller. Trim off the inner ends of the wing spars 
so that they will fit together with close butt joints. 
Coat the ends with cement, press together and hold 
until the cement has set. 






















INDOOR FUSELAGE MODEL AIRPLANE 


45i 


Complete the wing framework by cementing the 
center rib between the spars. Then fit a straight strip 
of balsa between the spars below the center rib, as 
shown in Fig. 610, for a brace. 

Papering. Cover the wing with Japanese tissue-paper. 
Paper one half, then the other. Apply banana oil to 
the framework, a short distance at a time, lower the 
paper into place, stretch it, and work out wrinkles by 




Fig. 613. — Trailing-edge of Wing, showing Dihedral, and Wash-in on Left Tip. 
Fig. 614. — Detail of Wing with Incidence-blocks attached. 


rubbing gently. Slight slackness in the tissue-paper 
may be taken up by shrinking, either by steaming or 
applying airplane dope. To steam, hold the wing over 
a jet of steam from a teakettle, then allow the paper 
to dry, and repeat if necessary. Steam the tissue-paper 
a little at a time, because there is danger of shrinking 

it too much and warping the wing. 

A Pair of Incidence Blocks are necessary to support the 
wing upon the fuselage. Cut them of balsa wood 
U inch thick, of the shape shown in the full-size 
patterns (Figs. 611 and 612). The ends are notched 








45 2 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


for the loops of the rubber wing-band. Glue the blocks 
to the wing spars, as shown in Fig. 614. 


8 “- 1 



Fig. 615. — Tail Assembly. 

Fig. 616. — Plan of Stabilizer-Elevator Frame. 
Fig. 617. — Plan of Fin-Rudder Frame. 


A Wing-band is used instead of wing-clips to hold the 
wing to the fuselage. The band must be of fine rubber 


























INDOOR FUSELAGE MODEL AIRPLANE 


453 


like that used in golf balls, so that it will not pull too 
hard upon the frames. There are two ways to attach 
the band. One way is to pass it under the fuselage, 
slip its ends over the wing tips, and slide the loops over 
to the center. This method is shown in Fig. 603. The 
other way is to slip the loop ends into the notches of the 



Fig. 618. — Motor Assembly. 

Figs. 619 and 620. — Details of Nose and Tail Blocks. 

Figs. 621-623. — Details of Propeller Shaft, Rear Hook, and S-Hook. 

incidence blocks. The latter method does away with 
the danger of breaking the wing frame. 

The Tail Assembly is shown in Fig. 615. Build the 
frame for the stabilizer-elevator like the pattern in Fig. 
616, and paper its lower surface. Build the frame of 
the fin-rudder like the pattern in Fig. 617, and paper 
one side of it. 













454 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


Mount the fin upon the stabilizer with the front edge 
on the center spar, the rear edge J-inch to the left. This 
will make a J-inch offset, or warp. Join the tail to the 
fuselage with the outrigger spar shown in Figs. 603 and 
615. Cut away the paper where it crosses the frame¬ 
work formers, and cement the spar to the formers. 

The Motor Assembly is shown in Fig. 618. Instead of 
a motor base, there are nose and tail blocks to support 
the propeller shaft and motor hook. These are made 
to fit snugly in the fuselage ends. Figure 619 shows a 
cross-section of a block, and Fig. 620 gives the dimen¬ 
sions of the three pieces of balsa of which it is built. 
Center the pieces, one on another, as shown, and cement 
them together. Drill a hole in the nose block for the 
propeller shaft, and a hole in the tail block for the rear 
hook. Cement a thrust washer to the front of the nose 
block (Fig. 618). 

The Wire Fittings consist of a propeller shaft (Fig. 621), 
a rear hook (Fig. 622), an S-hook (Fig. 623), and wheel 
axles (Fig. 632). Shape them of No. 8 music wire, with 
the aid of round-nosed pliers. 

The Propeller is carved out of a block of the size shown 
in Fig. 624. Follow the steps shown in Figs. 625 to 628 
in carving it. After squaring the block, draw diagonals 
through its corners, upon opposite faces, and push a pin 
through the centers to drill the shaft hole. One- 
sixteenth inch each side of the center, draw a line 
parallel to the side edges, to mark off a hub inch wide. 


INDOOR FUSELAGE MODEL AIRPLANE 


455 


Then cut away the edges of the block along the diagonal 
lines (Fig. 625). Draw a diagonal line across the block 
ends, from corner to corner, in the directions shown, and 
the block will be ready to carve. 



Fig. 625. 


Fig. 626. 


Fig. 627. 


Fig. 628. 


Figs. 624-628. — Steps of Carving the Propeller. 

Carving. Cut away the wood upon opposite edges, 
as shown in Fig. 626, a little at a time, to a point fg inch 
above the end diagonal lines. Even off the surfaces, 















456 


HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 


then smooth with fine sandpaper, and make them 
slightly spoon-shaped, or cambered (Fig. 627). 

Invert the block, and carve the edges of this face in 
the same way. Smooth the surfaces, and sandpaper 
slightly convex-shaped. Then sandpaper the blades 
to a thickness of about ^ inch. Reduce the width 
of the hub to fg inch, and reduce the thickness to -§ inch, 
cutting away the hub on the inner face (Fig. 628). 



Fig. 629. — Landing-Gear Struts. 

Fig. 630 and 631. — Landing Wheel. 
Fig. 632. — Axle and Shock Absorber. 
Fig. 633. — Tail Skid. 


To Mount the Propeller, slip the shaft through the nose 
block, three thrust washers, and the hub, bend over its 
end, coat this with cement, and draw it back into the 
hub. Cement one of the washers to the hub (Fig. 618). 

The Motor requires 31 inches of rubber ^ inch by 
-§ inch. Knot the ends, place the knot at the S-hook, 
and slip the loop over the shaft hook. To install the 
motor, drop the S-hook and rubber through the nose 
and rear end of the fuselage, and slip it over the rear 






INDOOR FUSELAGE MODEL AIRPLANE 


457 


hook. Then fit the nose and tail blocks into the ends 
of the fuselage. 

The Landing Gear requires two pairs of struts like those 
shown in Fig. 629. Cement the upper ends to the 
fuselage longerons, and bring the lower ends together 
and cement them. Cut the wheels out of balsa, of the 
size shown in Fig. 630. Make hubs J inch long of 
paper rolled into tiny tubes, or of small brass tubing, 
and cement them in holes drilled through the wheel 
centers, as shown in Fig. 631. Make axles of No. 8 
music wire, with the upper ends shaped for shock 
absorbers , as shown in Fig. 632. Cement to the landing- 
gear struts, as shown in Fig. 631. Figure 633 shows the 
tail skid . Notch the wide end to fit over the next to 
the last former-frame. Cut away the tissue-paper 
covering of the fuselage at the point of attaching, so 
that the skid can be cemented to the former-strip. 

Finish the Ship’s Cabins with windows and door. 
Figure 635 shows a full-size pattern for the window for 
the left side of the ship, and Fig. 636 shows a pattern 
for the windows and door for the right side of the ship. 
Figure 637 shows patterns for the pilot-cabin windows. 
Make tracings of the patterns upon thin paper. It 
looks best to draw the outlines in ink, but if you find 
that ink causes the thin paper to wrinkle, use a soft 
pencil. Cut out the tracings and paste them on the 
fuselage papering. The positions for the windows are 
indicated upon the fuselage-frame pattern (Fig. 634). 



B 



B 


Fig. 634. — Full-size Patterns for Fuselage Templet. 



o > 





























o > 


INDOOR FUSELAGE MODEL AIRPLANE 


A B 




Make Tracings of Parts, joining Ends A of the First Part to Ends A of the 
Second Part, Ends B of the Second Part to Ends B of the Third Part, and 
Ends C of the Third Part to Ends C of the Fourth Part. 

























460 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Indicate ailerons on the wing, and the division of fin 
and rudder, and stabilizer and elevator, as shown in 
Fig. 603. And do not forget to add the ship’s insignia 
“IF-32” upon each side of the fuselage, near the tail. 

Tuning the Model. To tune the IF-32 for a flight, 
place the wing about where it is shown in Fig. 603, and 



Fig. 637. — Full-size Patterns of Pilot Cabin Windows. 


try out the ship as a glider. If it dives at a steep angle 
move the wing a trifle forward. If it climbs steeply, 
then stalls and slips back, move the wing back. In 
this way, you will quickly discover the point at which 
the ship glides on an even keel, and with careful pilot¬ 
ing, you will enjoy a lot of successful flights before an 
untoward crack-up brings about 


THE END. 


INDEX 


A 

Admission tickets, 269. 

Aerial, 239; mast, 241; base, 241; insulation, 
243 - 

Aerial circus, 433. 

Aeronautical terms, 319. 

Aircraft tournament rules, 322. 

Airship, a boy’s auto-, 327; framework of bal¬ 
loon, 329; ribs, 330; rib-bands. 331 ; balloon 
envelope, 33 1 ; stays, 33 J; car, 332; pro¬ 
peller, 333; starting platform, 334; a push- 
off platform, 335; rope cable, 335; attach¬ 
ment of car, 33c; windlass for pulling air¬ 
ship back to platform, 335; an auto-airship 
club, 336. 

Airships, “clockwork” flying, 203. 

Ambroid cement, 72. 

Animals for merry-go-round, 193. 

Annual rings, 44. 

Ark, a bird, 385. 

Armor, home-made, 412; a helmet, 413; a 
shield, 414; a sword, 415. 

Arm rocker, 164. 

Attic, a boy’s room in an (see Room in an 
Attic). 

Auger-bits, 21. 

Auto-airship, a boy’s (see Airship). 

Automobile moving-picture, an, 273. 

Auto truck, a toy, 180. 

Auto wagon, 374; steering-gears for, 374, 375; 
seats for, 376; auto horn for, 376. 

Axles, model airplane, 317, 454; wagon, 368. 

B 

Back-saw, 18. 

Bag, a sleeping-, 342. 

Balloon for auto-airship, framework of, 329. 

Balsa, cutting, 301. 

Band of home-made instruments, a boy’s, 416; 
a cornet, 417; a trombone, 418; a bass 
horn, 420; a fife, 421; a bass drum, 421; 
cymbaM, 422; a drum-stick, 423; snare 

461 


drums, 423; the drum major’s “bearskin” 
cap, 423; his staff, 424; his whistle, 424; 
uniforms, 424. 

Bamboo, cutting, 301. 

Banana-oil adhesive, 307. 

Basket, a waste-, 130, 164. 

Bass drum, a home-made, 421. 

Bass horn, a home-made, 420. 

Battens, 69. 

Battle, rules for a snow naval, 285. 

Battlement, a castle club-house, 409. 

Battleship, a snow (see Snow Battleship). 

Beaded boards, 49. 

Bearings, propeller, 436. 

“Bearskin” cap, a drum major’s, 423. 

Bell transformer, 146. 

Bench, a cabinet-made, 3; a home-made, 3; a 
chair saw-, 38; a solid work, 4; a work, with 
tool drawers, 8; a bedroom or living-room, 
117; a camp table, 350; a box, 350. 

Bench-hook, 40. 

Bench-screw, an iron, 7. 

Bench-stop, an adjustable, 12. 

Bench-stops, home-made, 11. 

Bench-vise, 6. 

Bevel, 26, 71. 

Bird-houses, 379; a box wren-house, 379; 
another box bird-house, 381; a bird tower, 
382; a tin-can bird tower, 382; a bird 
castle, 383; a bird ark, 385; a house and 
swing, 386; a wren log cabin, 386. 

Bit, an expansive-, 21; a wood drill, 22; a 
countersink, 22; a screw-driver, 23. 

Bit-brace, 21. 

Bits, auger-, 21. 

Blocks, incidence, 317; nose, 318; single, 329; 
tail, 319. 

Blueprints, working-drawing, 97. 

Blunderbuss for “Willie Shute,” 268. 

Board foot, 51. 

Boards, stock sizes of, 49; undressed, 48; 
dressed, 48; matched, 49; beaded and 
matched-and-beaded, 49; rabbeted, 65. 


462 


INDEX 


Boat, a punt, 351; a sharpie, 356. 

Boats, “torpedo,” 286. 

Bob-sled, 290; runners, 291; seats, 292; check- 
chains, 293; steering foot-bar, 293; steering 
lines, 293; handle-bars, 293; seat cushion, 
293; painting, 294. 

Boiler, steam turbine, 251. 

Bolts, 74. 

Bonehead, 260. 

Book-racks, 107; extension, 108; wall, 122, 
124; shelf, 163. 

Bottle-rack, 142. 

Box furniture (see Furniture). 

Boxing-match, moving picture of a, 277. 

Boy riders for merry-go-round, 195. 

Boy’s room in an attic, a (see Room in an 
Attic). 

Brace, ratchet, 21. 

Bracket-saw, 18. 

Brad-awls, 22. 

Brass craft, 206; tools and materials for, 206; 
enlarging designs, 207; piercing, 208; 
polishing, 209; a home-made lacquer, 209; 
a tea-pot stand, 209; a calendar board, 211; 
a pen tray, 211; a lampshade, 212; a candle- 
shade, 214; fringe for, 214; shade holders, 
215; a candle-stick, 215; a “Paul Revere” 
lantern, 216. 

Brushes, 77. 

Butt-joint, 60. 

c 

Cabin, a wren log-, 386. 

Cabinet, a tool, 33. 

Cabinet-maker’s clamps, 29. 

Cabin latch, an old fashioned, 157. 

Cabins, model airplane, 457. 

Cable for auto-airship, 335. 

Cage, a white rat, 399. 

Calendar board, 211. 

Camber, wing, 301, 429. 

Camp furniture, 349; a chair, 349; a table, 349; 
a table bench, 350; a box bench, 350; box 
cupboards, 350. 

Camping equipment, 337; cost of ‘A” and 
wall tents, 337; how to make an “A” tent, 
338; ridge-pole and uprights, 340; tent 
stakes, 340; pitching the tent, 340; a 
ground-cloth, 341; a twig mattress, 341; a 
sleeping-bag, 342; other equipment, 342; 
an electric flash lamp, 343; packing, 343, 


a safety match-box, 344; a duffle box, 344; 
food supplies, 345; learning to cook, 345; 
an open fire, 345; a back-woodsman’s fire¬ 
place, 346; pothooks, 347; a sheet-iron 
camp stove, 347; a Dutch oven, 348; a 
fireless cooker, 348; building a fire, 348; a 
camp chair, 349; a camp table, 349; a table 
bench, 350; a box bench, 350; box cup¬ 
boards, 350. 

Camp stove, a sheet-iron, 347. 

Can, a motor, 316, 436. 

Candle-shade, 214; holder for a, 215. 

Candle-stick, a brass, 215. 

Can receptacles for nails and screws, 35. 

Cap, a drum-major’s, 423. 

Car, auto-airship, 332. 

Carborundum stone, 30. 

Carpenter’s horse, 36. 

Carpenter’s steel square, 26. 

Carriage-bolts, 74. 

Cars, Ferris wheel, 201; “flying airships,” 205. 

Cart, a toy, 180. 

Carving a propeller, 443, 455. 

Casein glue, 72. 

Castle, a bird, 383. 

Castle club-house, a, 404; material, 404; 
framework, 405; floor joists, 407; corner 
turrets, 407; walls, 407; openings, 408; 
roof, 408; battlement, 409; secret treasure 
vaults, 409; drawbridge, 409; windlass, 
411; moat, 412. 

Cement, ambroid, 72. 

Center table, a doll’s, 182. 

Chain fringe for brass craft, 214. 

Chair, an office, 163; a rocking-, 163; a doll’s, 
182, 183; a camp, 349. 

Chair saw-bench, 38. 

Chamfer; 71. 

Chamfer bevel, 71. 

Chamfer groove, 71. 

Check-chain, bob-sled, 293. 

Checks in lumber, 47. 

Chest, a tool-, 30; a pirate, 159. 

Chest-weight, 170. 

Chinning-bar, 175. 

Chisels, firmer, 24; framing or mortising, 24; 
cold-, 25. 

Cigar-boxes, preparation of, 178; cutting, 179; 
finish, 179. 

Cigar-box toys and gifts (see Toys; also 
Furniture). 

Clamps, cabinet-maker’s, 29; home-made, 29. 


INDEX 


463 


Cleating boards, 69. 

Cleats, 69. 

Clips, wing, 317, 438. 

Clock-shelf, 105; a corner, 184. 

Clockwork motors, 190, 198. 

Clockwork toys (see Toys). 

Clothes closet for an attic room, 155. 

Clown and ball moving picture, 272. 
Club-house, a castle (see Castle). 

Clubs, workshop, 103, 105. 

Coaster, 287; runners for, 287; shoes, 288; 
seat, 289; handles, 289; foot-bar, 290; 
painting, 290. 

Coil, a tuning, 234. 

Cold-chisel, 25. 

Common-joint, 60. 

Common-splice, 60. 

Compasses, 92. 

Compass-saw, 18. 

Concrete base for aerial, 241. 

Condenser, a fixed, 237. 

Continental telegraph code, 231. 

Coping-saw, 18. 

Cords, electric appliance, 141. 

Cornet, a home-made, 417. 

Corrugated fasteners, 74. 

Cote, a pigeon-, 402. 

Counterbalance, drawbridge, 410. 
Countersink-bit, 22. 

Countersinking, 73. 

Crack-fillers, 85. 

Cradle, a doll’s, 183. 

Crate opener, 17. 

Cross-cut saw, 18. 

Crosstree, 284. 

Crystal receiving set, 233; the receivers, 233; 
a detector, 233; a tuning-coil, 234; a fixed 
condenser, 237; the hook-up, 238; an 
aerial, 239. 

Cupboards, camp, 350. 

Cup-shakes, 47. 

Cutting cigar box wood, 179; balsa, 301; 

bamboo, 301; large holes, 143. 

Cutting pliers, 28. 

Cymbals, home-made, 422. 

D 

Dado-plane, 20. 

Deck of snow battleship, 285. 

Definitions of aeronautical terms, 319. 

Desk, a box writing-, 160. 

Detail drawing, 86. 


Detector, a crystal, 233. 

Dimension stuff, 49. 

Dining-table, a doll’s, 182. 

Dividers, wing-, 27. 

Dog-house, 389. 

Doll furniture, 182; a round-seated chair, 182; 
a round center-table, 182; a dining-table, 
182; a square-seated chair, 183; a cradle, 
183. 

Door, a batten, 156. 

Door locks, 140. 

Door stop, a pup, 128. 

Dovetail half-lap joint, 68. 

Dovetailing, 67. 

Dovetail joint, 66. 

Dowelling, 68. 

Dowel-joint, 68. 

Dowels, 68. 

Drafting table, 91, 137. 

Drawbridge, 409. 

Drawer partitions, I44. 

Drawer pulls, 32, 290. 

Drawers, tool, 10. 

Drawing-board, 91. 

Drawing outfit, 90. 

Draw-knife, 25. 

Dressed stuff, 48. 

Drill, a hand, 23. 

Drill bit, 22. 

Drum, a home-made bass, 421; a snare, 423. 
Drum major, 423. 

Drum stick, 423. 

Duffle box, 344. 

Dumb-bell lifting stunt, 258. 

Dumb-bell rack, 177. 

Dummy assistant for magical mortar, 263. 
Dutch oven, 348. 

E 

Electric appliance cords, 141. 

Electric lamp, 136. 

Elementary manual training, 42. 

Elevation, front, rear, side, right and lift, 87. 
Elevator, a model airplane, 453. 

Enamelling, 78. 

Enlarging by squares, 207, 287. 

Estimating costs of material, 51. 

Exercising machine (see Chest-weight and 
Rowing Machine). 

Expansive-bit, 21. 

Express-wagon, a toy, 180. 

Extension book-rack, 108. 


464 


INDEX 


F 

Falsetto, 263. 

Fasteners, corrugated, 74. 

Faucet repairs, Fuller, 139; compression, 140. 

Ferris wheel, a clockwork, 198. 

Fife, a home-made, 421. 

Fighting-tops, 283. 

Files, 25. 

Fillers, paste, 82; crack, 85. 

Filling woodwork, 82. 

Fin, 429, 442, 453. 

Finishing woodwork, 75. 

Fire, a camp, 345; to build a, 348. 

Fireplace, the backwoodsman’s, 346. 

Fireplace screen, 125. 

Firmer chisels, 24. 

Fished-splice, 60. 

Fittings, wire, 314, 435, 454. 

Flags for snow battleship, 284, 286. 

Flash lamp for camping, 343. 

“Flying airships,” clockwork, 203. 

Folding rule, a 2-foot, 26. 

Food supplies, camp, 345. 

Foot-bar, a coaster, 290; a bob-6led, 293. 

Footstool, 114. 

Fore-plane, 20. 

Foreshorten, 319. 

Framing chisel, 24. 

Fringe for brass craft, 214. 

Funnels for snow battleships, 284. 

Furnishing an attic room, 159. 

Furniture, camp, 349; a chair, 349; a table, 
349; a table bench, 350; a box bench, 350; 
cupboards, 350. 

Furniture, doll, 182; a round-seated chair, 182; 
a round center-table, 182; a dining table, 
182; a square-seated chair, 183; a cradle, 
183. 

Furniture, easily made, 103; a whisk-broom 
holder, 105, 185; a clock-shelf, 105; a 
corner clock-shelf, 184; a key-board, 183; a 
match-box, 185; a cottage pipe-rack, 186; 
a cottage match-box, 188; a necktie-rack, 
107; a towel-rack, 107; book-racks, 107; an 
extension book-rack, 108; tabourets, no, 
112; a plant stand, 114; a footstool, 114; a 
bench, 117; magazine-racks, 120; wall 
racks, 122, 124; a fireplace screen, 125; a 
pup door-stop, 128; a waste-basket, 130; 
a step stool, 132; a smoker’s stand, 134; 
an electric lamp, 136; a drafting table, 137. 


Furniture for your room, 160; a writing-desk, 
160; an office chair, 163; a waste-basket, 
164; an arm rocker, 164; a pirate chest, 
159; a window seat, 159. 

Fuselage, 310; a profile, 311; a simple built-up, 
311; a wedge-shaped, 312; an oval-shaped, 
312; a scale model, 313; a profile-fuselage 
glider, 431; an indoor tractor, 446. 

Fuselage model airplane, an indoor (see Indoor 
Fuselage Model Airplane). 

G ' 

Gadgets (see Repairs and Gadgets). 

Gauge, a marking-, 26; a mortise-, 27. 

Gauging, 52. 

Gifts, cigar-box, (see Furniture). 

Gimlet, 22. 

Girl riders, clockwork merry-go-round, 195. 

Glider, a profile-fuselage, 426. 

Gluing, 72. 

Gothic letters, 102. 

Gouge, 24. 

Groove, 66. 

Ground-cloth, 34I. 

Guns for snow battleship, 283, 285. 

Gymnasium apparatus for a boy’s room, 166; 
a rowing-machine, 166; a chest-weight, 170; 
a striking-bag platform, 173; a chinning- 
bar, 175; a hitch-and-kick, 175; a wand, 
176; a rack for dumb-bells, Indian clubs 
and wand, 177; other ideas, 177. 

H 

Hack-saw, 19. 

Half-lap joint, 60. 

Halved-joint, 60. 

Halved-splice, 60. 

Hammer, 17. 

Handle-bars, sled, 293. 

Handscrews, 29. 

Hanging lamp, 158. 

Hatchet, 16. 

Headlights, 373. 

Heart-shakes, 47. 

Heart-wood, 44. 

Heater for attic room, 157. 

Hinge-hasp, 31. 

Hitch-and-kick, 175. 

Holder, a whisk-broom, 105; a shade, 215. 

Holes, cutting large, 143. 


INDEX 


465 


Hood, 372. 

Hook, a nose, 431; an S-, 316, 436, 454; a rear 
motor, 316, 454; a spool, 155. 

Hook-up, a telegraph, 228; a crystal radio, 238. 

Horn, a home-made base, 420. 

Horse, a carpenter’s, 36. 

Horse-and-hound moving pictures, 272. 

Horses, merry-go-round, 193. 

House, a bird- (see Bird-houses); a dog-, 389. 

Housed-joint, 66. 

Houses for pets, 389; a dog-house, 389; a 
rabbit-hutch, 391; a breeding hutch, 394; 
a two-story rabbit-hutch, 395; a rabbit 
yard, 398; a cage for white rats, 399; a 
pigeon-cote, 402. 

Hutch, a rabbit-, 391. 


I 

Ice-pick and ice-chisel rack, 148. 

Incidence blocks, 317, 451. 

Indian-club rack, 177. 

Indoor fuselage model airplane, 445; material, 
445; the fuselage framework, 446; papering, 
449; the wing, 449; to join the wing halves, 
450; papering, 451; incidence blocks, 451; 
a wing-band, 452; the tail assembly, 453; 
the motor assembly, 454; the wire fittings, 
454; the propeller, 454; carving, 455; 
mounting,456; the motor, 456; the landing 
gear, 457; finishing the ship’s cabins, 457; 
tuning, 460. 

Indoor tractor model airplane, 434; material 
for, 435; motor base, 435; outrigger spar, 
435; motor fittings, 435; the wing, 438; the 
ribs, 438; the spars, 439; the wash-in, 440; 
the wing assembly, 440; to paper a wing, 
440; the stabilizer, and the fin, 442; 
mounting the stabilizer, 443; the propeller, 
443; carving, 443; mounting, 444; the 
motor, 444; tuning, 444. 

Inkstand, a pencil-box and, 96. 

Instruments, drawing, 90. 

Insulation material, 159. 


J 

Jack-in-the-box, 181. 
Jack-knife, 15. 
Jack-plane, 19. 


Japanese tissue-paper, 307; pressing, 307; 
applying, 308; trimming, 308; shrinking, 
3 ° 9 - 

Jig-saw, 19. 

Joints, woodworking, 57. 

Juggling with “heavy” balls, 260. 

Juvenile Manufacturing Co., The, 103. 

K 

Keel board, 353, 361. 

Key, a home-made telegraph, 221. 

Key-board, 183. 

Keyhole saw, 18. 

Kiln drying, 48. 

Knife, a jack-, 15; a draw-, 25. 

Knife-box, 146. 

Knobs, spool, 169. 

Knots, 47. 

L 

Laboratory, the home, 219; a telegraph, 220; a 
crystal receiving set, 233; the aerial, 239; 
an electric question-answer map, 245; a 
simple steam turbine, 251. 

Lacquers, 78, 209. 

Lamp, an electric, 136; a hanging-, 158. 
Lamp-shade, 212. 

Landing gear, 457. 

Lantern hanging- lamp, 158; a “Paul Revere,” 
216. 

Latch, a cabin, 157. 

Launching, hand, 432; with a tow-line, 433; 
from a kite, 433. 

Laying out work, 51; working-drawings, 100. 
Leaking faucets, 139. 

Lettering working-drawings, 102. 

Level, 27; a pocket, 28. 

Leveling furniture legs, 112. 

License number, a pushmobile, 373. 

Lines, dimension, 101; center-, dot-and-dash, 
dotted, and marginal, 102; plumb-, 153. 
Lockers for a boy’s room, 154. 

Locks, door, I40; hinge window, 145. 
Log-cabin, a wren, 386. 

Logs, 45. 

Loops, inside, 432; outside, 432. 

Lug pole, 346. 

Lumber, preparation of, 45; defects in, 47; 
seasoning of, 48; kiln drying of, 48; stock 
sizes of, 49; estimating cost of, 51. 


466 


INDEX 


M 

Machine, a rowing-, 166; a simple, moving- 
picture, 270. 

Magazine of snow battleship, 285. 

Magazine racks, 120. 

Magical mortar, 260. 

Main battery of snow battleship, 285. 

Mallet, 17. 

Manual training, 42. 

Map, a question-answer, 245. 

Marking-gauge, 26. 

Mast, an aerial, 241; a snow battleship, 283. 

Match-box, a kitchen, 185; a cottage pipe- 
rack and, 186; a cottage, 188; a safety, 344. 

Matched, 49. 

Matched-and-beaded stuff, 49. 

Material, selection of, 43; purchasing, 50; 
estimating costs of, 51. 

Material boxes, 34. 

Mattress, a pine twig, 341. 

Medullary rays, 45. 

Meets, rules for model airplane, 323; push- 
mobile, 365. 

Merry-go-round, a clockwork, 190; horses for, 
193; sleighs for, 194; riders for, 195; ani¬ 
mals for, 197; to operate, 197. 

Mill list, preparation of a, 50. 

Miter-box, a home-made, 39. 

Mitered-joint, 66. 

Mitered-splice, 66. 

Moat, 412. 

Model airplane construction, 299; methods of 
wing construction, 299; the all-balsa wing, 
300; built up wing frames, 300; cutting 
balsa, 301; cutting bamboo, 301; wing 
camber, 301; wing tips, 302; wing assembly, 
302; double-surface wing frames, 305; wing 
covering, 306; a beginner’s first job of 
papering, 307; pressing Japanese tissue- 
paper, 307; cutting, 307; banana-oil ad¬ 
hesive, 307; start of papering, 308; trim¬ 
ming, 308; shrinking the tissue-paper, 309, 
double-surface papering, 309; fuselage con¬ 
struction, 310; a profile fuselage, 311; a 
simple built-up fuselage, 311; a wedge- 
shaped fuselage, 312; an oval-shaped 
fuselage, 312; scale-model fuselages, 313; 
propellers, 313; wire fittings, 314; a pro¬ 
peller shaft, 315; thrust-washers, 315; a 
thrust-bearing, 315; a rear motor-hook, 
316; a motor yoke, 316; a motor S-hook, 
316; a motor can, 316; axles and shock ab¬ 


sorbers, 317; wing clips, 317; incidence 
blocks, 317; a nose block, 318; a tail block, 
319; other details, 318; definitions of 
aeronautical terms, 319; rules and regu¬ 
lations for an aircraft tournament, 322. 
Model airplane tournament rules, 322. 

Morse telegraph code, 231. 

Mortar, a magical, 260. 

Mortise, 62. 

Mortise-and-tenon joints, 61. 

Mortise gauge, 27. 

Mortising chisel, 24. 

Motor, a boat for an outboard, 363. 

Motor base, 435. 

Motor can, 316. 

Motor fittings, 314, 435, 434. 

Motor hook, a rear, 316, 454. 

Motor yoke, 316. 

Motors, clockwork, 190, 198. 

Motors, model airplane, 444, 456. 

Moving pictures, 270; a simple machine for, 
270; the clown and ball, 272; the circus 
horse and hound, 272; the automobile, 273; 
the revolving wheels, 276; the boxing 
match, 277. 

N 

Nail boxes and cans, 34, 35. 

Nailing, 74; toe-, 152. 

Nails, 74. 

Nail-set, 17. 

Naval battle, a snow, 285. 

Necktie-rack, 107. 

Nest boxes, 400. 

Netting, poultry-,393. 

Nose block, 318. 

Nose hook, 431. 

O 

Odd jobs, the, 28. 

Office chair, 163. 

Oiler, 30. 

Oiling woodwork, 84. 

Oil stains, 79. 

Oilstone, 30. 

Outboard motor, a boat for an, 363. 

Outfit, a tool, 14; a wood finishing, 75; a draw¬ 
ing, 90; a brass craft, 206; a crystal receiv¬ 
ing, 232; a camping, 337. 

Outrigger spar, 435. 

Oven, a Dutch, 348. 


INDEX 467 


P 

Packing a camp outfit, 343. 

Paint, 75; mixing, 76. 

Painter for boats, 355, 362. 

Painting, 77. 

Paper for working drawings, 96. 

Papering a model airplane, 307, 440, 446. 
Paring with a chisel, 63. 

Partition for attic room, I49. 

Partitions, drawer, I44. 

“Paul Revere” lantern, a brass, 216. 

Pencil box, 96. 

Pencils, drawing, 94. 

Pennants, 159, 284. 

Pens, 95. 

Pen tray, 211. 

Perspective drawing, 88. 

Picture-frames, 159. 

Pictures, moving, 270. 

Pigeon-cote, 402. 

Pins for mortise-and-tenon joints, 65. 

Pirate chest, 159. 

Pith of a tree, 44. 

Plain sawing, 45. 

Plan, 87. 

Plane, a jack-, 19; a smoothing-, 20; a fore-, 
20; a rabbet-, 20; a dado, 20. 

Planing exercise, 54. 

Planks, 49. 

Plant stand, no, 114. 

Platforms for auto-airship, 334. 

Pliers, 28. 

Plumb-board, 153. 

Plumb-line, 153. 

Pocket level, 28. 

Polishing, wood, 83; brass, 209. 

Pot-cover rack, 142. 

Pothooks, 347. 

Poultry-netting, 393. 

Priming coat, 78. 

Printing-frame, a blueprint, 99. 

Professor for a boys’ vaudeville show, 261. 
Profile-fuselage glider model, 426; the wing, 
427; a flat wing, 429; a cambered wing, 
429; the stabilizer, 429; the fin, 429; the 
fuselage, 431; a nose hook, 431; wing and 
tail bands, 431; for inside loops, 432; for 
outside loops, 432; tuning, 432; launching 
by hand, 432; launching with a tow-line, 
433; launching from a kite, 433; an aerial 
circus performance, 433. 

Program board for vaudeville show, 268. 


Propeller, 313, 443, 454; carving, 443, 455; 
mounting, 444, 456. 

Propeller, an auto airship, 333. 

Propeller bearing, 315, 436. 

Propeller shaft, 315, 437, 454. 

Punching-bag (see Striking-bag). 

Punt, a home-made, 351; dimensions, 351; 
material, 351; eide boards, 352; stem- and 
stern-pieces, 353; bottom boards, 353; 
inner keel board, 353; scats, 354; rowlocks, 
354; thole-pins, 355; painter, 355; finish¬ 
ing. 355 - 

Pup door-stop, 128. 

Pushmobile, a, 364; a, club, 365, 368; a race, 
367; to construct a, 368; axles, 368; wagon- 
bed, 369; steering-gear, 369; hood, 372; 
radiator-front, 372; seat, 373; headlights, 
373; side lamps, 373; painting, 373; license 
number, 373; a racing pushmobile, 373. 

Push wagon, 376; the wagon-bed, 376; rear 
wheels, 377; front wheels, 377. 

Puttying, 84. 

Putty-knife, 85, 

Q 

Quarter-sawing, 46. 

Question-answer map, 245. 

R 

Rabbet, 65. 

Rabbet-joint, 65. 

Rabbet-plane, 20. 

Rabbit-hutch, 39I; a breeding, 394; a two- 
story, 395; painting, 401; the floor cover¬ 
ing, 402; drinking receptacles, 402. 

Rabbit yard, 398. 

Races, model airplane, 322. 

Rack, a tool-, 33; a necktie-, 107; a towel-, 107; 
a book-, 107; an extension book-, 108; a 
magazine-, 120; a wall book-, 122; a larger 
wall book-, 124; a pot cover, 142; a bottle, 

142; a utility, 148; a broom-handle towel-, 
158; a dumb-bell, Indian club and wand, 

77 - 

Radiator front, a pushmobile, 372. 

Radio set, a crystal receiving, 233; receivers, 
233; a detector, 233; a tuning-coil, 234; a 
fixed condenser, 237; a hook-up, 238; de¬ 
velopments, 238; an aerial, 239. 

Ratchet-brace, 21, 


468 


INDEX 


Ratchet screw-driver, 23. 

Rear hook, 316, 436, 454. 

Receivers, telephone, 233. 

Repairs and gadgets, home, 139; leaking 
faucets, 139; door locks, I40; electric ap¬ 
pliance cords, I4I; a pot-cover rack, 142; 
drawer partitions, 144; weather strips, 145; 
hinge safety locks, 145; a bell transformer, 
146; other bell installations, 146; a scrub 
pail platform, 147; a towel roller, 147; a 
utility rack, 148. 

Revolving wheels moving picture, 276. 

Rib-bands, 331. 

Ribs, 301, 438, 449. 

Ridge-pole, a tent, 340. 

Rip-saw, 18. 

Rocker, an arm, 164. 

Roller, a towel, 147. 

Roof, a castle, 408. 

Room in an attic, a boy’s, I49; partitions, I49; 
lockers, 154; clothes-closet, 155; a heater, 
157; a washstand, 158; lighting, 158; 
furnishing, 159; insulation material, 159. 

Rotor, a steam turbine, 255. 

Rowing machine, 166. 

Rowlocks, 354. 

Rubbing woodwork, 83. 

Rudder, a boat, 362; a model airplane, 453. 

Rule, a zig-zag, 25; a 2-foot folding, 26. 

Ruler, 94. 

Rules for an aircraft tournament, 322. 

Ruling-pen, 93. 

Runners, coaster, 287; bob-sled, 291. 

S 

Safety locks, hinge, 145. 

“Sam Dow,” the strong man, 256. 

Sandpapering, 84. 

Sap wood, 45. 

Saw, a cross-cut, 18; a rip-, 18; a compass-, 18; 
a keyhole-, 18; a back-, 18; a coping-, 18; 
a bracket-, 18; a scroll- or jig-, 19; a hack-, 
19. 

Saw-bench, a chair, 38. 

Sawing, plain, 45; quarter, 46; exercise, 57. 

Scale for mechanical drawing, 94. 

Scales to which drawings are made, 88. 

Scratch-awl, 22. 

Screen, a fireplace, 125. 

Screw-driver, a spiral-ratchet, 23; a hand, 23; 
a, bit, 23. 


Screws, 72; fastening work with, 73. 

Scribing, 51. 

Scroll-saw, 19. 

Scrub-pail platform, I47. 

Seasoning lumber, 48. 

Seat, a window, 159; a sled, 289, 292; a beat, 
354, 3 6i 5 a wagon, 373, 376. 

Section, cross-, and longitudinal-, 88. 

Shade, a lamp, 212; a candle, 214. 

Shade holders, 215. 

Shaft, a propeller, 315, 437, 454. 

Shakes, cup-, 27; heart-, 47. 

Sharpie, a home-made, 356; dimensions, 356; 
side pieces, 357; the stem-piece, 358; the 
stern-piece, 358; the stretcher, 358; putting 
the pieces together, 358; bottom boards, 
359; a skeg, 360; an inner keel board, 361; 
seats, 361; the bow, 361; a painter, 362; 
the rudder, 362; rowlocks, 363. 

Shelf, a clock, 105; a corner clock, 184. 

Shellac, 81. 

Shelves for workshop, 34; for books, 122, 124, 
163. 

Shock absorbers, 317. 

Shoes for sled runners, 288. 

S- hook, 316, 436, 454. 

Shooting-board, 40. 

Shop equipment, work-benches, 3; tools, 14; 
a tool chest, 30; a tool cabinet, 33; a tool- 
rack, 33; material boxes, 34; a horse, 36; 
a chair saw-bench, 38; a miter-box, 39; a 
bench-hook, 40; a shooting-board, 40. 

Show, stunts for a vaudeville (see Vaudeville 
show). 

Side lamps, pushmobile, 373. 

Silver grain in wood, 45. 

Skeg, 360. 

Skid, a tail, 457. 

Sled, a coaster, 287; a bob-, 290. 

Sleeping-bag, 342. 

Sleighs for merry-go-round, 194. 

Smoker’s stand, 134. 

Smoothing-plane, 20. 

Snare drums, 423. 

Snow battleship, 279; the central station, 279; 
the hull, 280; a torpedo tube, 281; the 
superstructure deck, 283; the conning- 
tower, 283; the forward turret, 283; the 
midship turret, 283; the mast, 283; fight¬ 
ing-tops, 283; rapid-fire guns, 283; a cross¬ 
tree, 284; pennants and signal flags, 284; 
a Union Jack, 284; a national ensign, 284; 


INDEX 


469 


funnels, 284; ventilators, 285; the main 
and secondary battery guns, 285; ammuni¬ 
tion stores, 285; duties of the Captain, 285; 
rules for a naval battle, 285; a flag of truce, 
286; “torpedo boats,” 286; repairs, 286; 
marksmanship, 286. 

Sounder, a telegraph, 223. 

Spar, an outrigger, 435. 

Spars, 300, 439, 449. 

Specifications, 86. 

Spiral-ratchet screw-driver, 23. 

Spirit level, 27. 

Splices, 57; common-, 60; fished-, 60; halved, 
60; mitered-, 66. 

Spoke-shave, 25. 

Spool hooks, 155; knobs, 169. 

Square, a try-, 26; a carpenter’s steel, 26. 
Squares, enlarging by, 207, 287. 

Stabilizer, 429, 442, 453. 

Staff, a drum-major’s, 424. 

Staining, 79. 

Stains, oil, 79. 

Stakes, tent, 340. 

Stand, a smoker’s, 134, a tea-pot, 209. 

Steam turbine, 251. 

Steel square, 26. 

Steering foot-bar, a sled, 293. 

Steering-gears, wagon, 369, 374, 375. 

Steering lines, sled, 293; wagon, 371, 375. 
Steering-wheels, wagon, 369, 374, 375. 
Stem-piece, 353, 358. 

Step-stool, 132. 

Stern-piece, 353, 358. 

Stock, 48. 

Stone, a carborundum, 30. 

Stool, a foot-, 114; a step-, 132. 

Stop, a bench, II; a chamfer, 71; a door, 125. 
Stove, a camp, 347. 

Stove-bolts, 74. 

Striking-bag, 173; a platform for a, 173. 
Structure of wood, 44. 

Stuff (same as Stock). 

Swing, a bird, 386. 

T 

Table, a drafting, 91, 137; a doll’s, 182; a 
camp, 349. 

Tabourets, no, 112. 

Tail assembly, 442, 453. 

Tail bands, 431. 

Tail block, 319. 

Tail skid, 457. 


Taper, 71. 

Targets for vaudeville stunts, 267. 

Tea-pot stand, 209. 

Telegraph, 220; the key, 221; the sounder, 223; 
the hook-up, 228; operation, 229; a gravity 
battery, 229; the Morse code, 231; the 
continental code, 231. 

Telephone receivers, 233. 

Tenon, 63. 

Tent, 337; an “A,” 338; to pitch a, 340. 
Thole-pins, 355. 

Thrust-bearing, 315, 435. 

Thrust washer, 315, 437, 454. 

Thumb-tacks, 96. 

Tickets, admission, 269. 

Tilting top for drafting table, 138. 
Tissue-paper, Japanese, 307. 

Toe-nailing, 152. 

Tongue-and-groove joint, 66. 

Tool-cabinet, 33. 

Tool-chest, 30. 

Tool-drawers, 10. 

Tool-rack, 33. 

Tools, purchasing, 14; a handy guide for pur¬ 
chasing, 15; the principal, 15; a small out¬ 
fit of, 15; a chest for, 30; a cabinet for, 33; 
a rack for, 33; drawing, 90; brass craft, 206. 
Tool-tray, 10. 

“Torpedo boats,” snow battleship, 286. 
Torpedo tube, 281. 

Towel-racks, 107, 158. 

Towel-roller, 147. 

Tower, a bird, 382. 

Tow-line, launching a model glider with a, 433. 
Toys, cigar-box, 178; an express-wagon, 180; 
a cart, 180; an auto truck, 180; a Jack-in- 
the-box, 181; chairs, 182, 183; tables, 182; 
a cradle, 183. 

Toys, clockwork, 189; a merry-go-round, 190; 

a Ferris wheel, 198; “flying airships,” 203. 
Tracing-cloth, 97. 

Tracing paper, 97. 

Transformer, a bell, 146. 

Transom, a door, 157. 

Tray, a tool, 10; a pen, 211. 

Treasure vault, a castle, 409. 

Trestletrees, 283. 

Triangles, 92. 

Trombone, a home-made, 418. 

Truce, a flag of, 286. 

Truck, a toy auto, 180. 

Try-square, 26. 


470 


INDEX 


T-Square, 91. 

Tuning, 432, 444, 460. 

Tuning-coil, 234. 

Turbine, a steam, 251. 

Turnbuckles, 174. 

Turrets, snow battleship, 283; castle, 407. 

U 

Umbrella-stand, 125. 

Undercutting, 114. 

Undressed stock, 48. 

Upholstering, 116. 

Utility rack, 148. 

V 

Vanderbilt Pushmobile Cup Race, The, 366. 

Varnishing, 83. 

Vaudeville show, stunts for a boys’, 256; Sam 
Dow, 256; lifting feats, 256; juggling, 260; 
Bonehead, 260; the magical mortar, 260; 
the professor, 261; the hat trick, 261; 
other mortar stunts, 262; the professor’s 
final exhibition, 262; the dummy assistant, 
263; Falsetto, 263; the ventroliquist, 264; 
his doll, 264; Willie Shute, 266; his targets, 
267; his blunderbuss, 268; a program 
board, 268; admission tickets, 269. 

Vaults, the castle secret treasure, 409. 

Ventriloquist, how to be a, 264. 

Vise, a bench, 6; an iron, 8, 

W 

Wagon, a toy express, 180; a toy auto truck, 
180. 

Wagons, pushmobiles and other home-made, 
364; a pushmobile, 368; a racing pushmo¬ 
bile, 375; an auto wagon, 374; a simple 
push wagon, 376. 

Wainscoting for an attic room, 155. 

Wall racks, 122, 124. 

Wand, 176; rack for a, 177. 

Warping, the cause of, 45. 

Warping a model airplane airfoil, 442. 

Washers, thrust, 315, 437, 454. 

Wash-in, 304, 440, 450. 

Wash-stand, 158. 

Waste-basket, 130; 164. 

Water-proof glue, 72. 

Waxing, 83. 

Weather strips, 145. 

Wedging mortise-and-tenon joints, 65. 


Wheel axles, 454. 

Wheels, the moving-picture revolving, 276. 

Wheels, wagon, 364, 368, 377. 

Whisk-broom holders, 105, 185. 

Whistle, a drum-major’s, 424. 

White rat cage, 399. 

Willie Shutes’ vaudeville stunts, 266. 

Winding, testing a board for, 55. 

Winding-sticks, 55. 

Windlass, a drawbridge, 411. 

Window seat, 159. 

Wind shakes, 47. 

Wing-bands, 317, 431, 452. 

Wing-clips, 317, 438 - 

Wing construction, 299, 438, 449; all-balsa, 
300; flat, 429; camber, 301, 429; tips, 302; 
assembly, 302, 440, 449; double-surface, 
305; covering, 306, 440, 451. 

Wing dividers, 27. 

Wing tips, 302. 

Winter sports equipment references, 294. 

Wire cloth, 393. 

Wiring a lamp, 137. 

Wood, structure of, 44; defects in, 47. 

Wood drill bit, 22. 

Wood-file, a half round, 25. 

Wood finishing, 75; paint, 75; mixing paints, 
76; painting, 77; brushes, 77; enamels, 78; 
lacquers, 78; oil stains, 79; shellacking, 81; 
filler and filling, 82; varnishing, 83; wax¬ 
ing, 83; rubbing, 83; polishing, 83; oiling, 
84; sandpapering, 84; puttying, 84; a 
home-made putty-knife, 85; crack fillers, 
85; caution about oily rags, 85. 

Work bench, a cabinet-made, 3; a home-made, 
3; a solid, 4; a, with tool drawers, 8. 

Working drawings, 86; scales of, 88; prepara¬ 
tion of, 100. 

Working-edge, 56. 

Working-face, 55. 

Working material, selection of, 43. 

Workshop, the home, i; location of, 2; light 
for, 3; equipment for (see Shop equipment). 

Wrench, 28. 

Writing-desk, a box, 160. 

. Y 

Yard, a rabbit, 398. 

Yoke, a motor-, 316. 

z 

Zig-zag rule, 25. 


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